260DET

RHD in the US eh. Should be good for doing fem pedestrian patrols It may be worth your while to import a completed RHD car from Japan. There are a lot of Japanese sites listing cars for sale, etc.

If it is the two piece plastic bush which is part of the gear lever pivot arrangement, it is a serviced Nissan part. Dunno the part # but I bought one a couple of years ago. It is shown in the 260Z workshop manual I have too, the pivot arrangement consists of a pin, circlip, two piece bush and small coil spring.

On ya Tim

There are a various square meshes that might be suitable, one is woven another welded. They look sort of period. I made up a removeable 'grille' out of expanded aluminium mesh but its mainly to protect the aluminium radiator. Its removeable because that stuff looks like it would be hard to clean.

The bottom star type ones but with a black center

The bottom star type ones but with a black center

Yeh, those ATS look good.

Made by ATS? Here http://www.ats-wheels.com/

This crowd have some stuff for the Z31, search Nissan. http://www.k-mac.com.au/ What is the problem with coilovers? The usual solution is to use suitable size generic sleeves, nuts, springs, etc to modify the stock struts.

Would if I could..........bump.

Thanks Steve. The inserts are being fitted to the front struts now. Basically they will each sit on an aluminium block inside and at the bottom of the strut tube. The rear side of the strut housing will be drilled at an angle up from near the bottom, the drilling will continue through the block, which will also be drilled down from the top. The idea is to use a flexible shaft screwdriver which can be inserted into the hole from the bottom to do the bump adjusting. Only the wheel will have to be removed to access this. The main problem at present is having the aluminium block as short as possible so that the cars front ride height and suspension travel is not compramised by the struts bodies having to be too long to accomodate both an insert and a block. I'm sure that it will work but I wouldn't be buggerising around with the Konis if I had access to reasonably priced double top adjustable inserts.

There are lookalikes around but there is no reason apparent visually why they are not Watanabe's. They make/made some wide ones.

Looks promising but eff off the wing. The 280ZX seems to have a lot of potential for body mods but no-one does them. Just try to keep it in the style of its era, not try and not make it look like a modern car. BTW Akezeim you can do car bodywork, painting, etc at TAFE. Get to it.

As I said that is a Nissan box in the photo, not a BW T anything. I've never seen a Nissan 4 speed but I'm guessing that the front plate would be similar, subject to the changed bearing size previously mentioned. Check it visually. If you are going to just replace the front plate at least make sure that the exposed bearing is ok and that there is a circular shim present. It sits between the bearing's outer race and the front plate. There are several different thickness shims..............

Not uncommon on the earlier Nissan 5 speeds, the front counter shaft bearing comes loose in the housing and spins its way through the front cover. From around the early/mid 80's they used a bigger bearing which seems to have solved that problem. If you have access in the US to the later model Nissan, not BW, boxes off a slant type motor then that may be your answer. At present I'm adapting an import RB20DET gearbox to suit, they also have the Z close ratios except for first gear. As far as I know the later boxes all have a different and better shift mechanism, easily identified in that the lever mounts in a plate which uses six bolts to attach to the rear housing.

The ID of the later 55mm OD front strut tube is around 48mm so no problem there. I think that it will be possible to access the bottom compression adjustor without removing the insert but won't know for sure until they arrive. Anyway, what are these different Koni settings everyone is using?

This is spinoff from the corner weights topic. The 8611 Koni double adjustable shocks I have on order have a compression adjustment range of 143 to 463 and rebound 243/507. It would be interesting to know what shock valving figures people are using for going round corners speed work. If its secret men's business then PM me.

In my situation, which surely is not unique, the knowledge as to the right shock valving for my particular car is simply not available. Which is one reason why double adjustable shocks are so attractive. That plus driving the car to and from the track plus any changes that may have to be made in the future to cater for things like different tyres. The bump valving has got to be changed on the front Koni Sports anyway, plus the Koni double adjustable strut inserts are available in various lengths, the shortest of which will enable the car to be set up lower with less droop than before.

Looks good, should save a bit of weight too. And the lights could be removed to fit brake cooling ducts, if you wanted that is.

True, big is not always best, 15" wheels seem to be around the biggest desirable, for round the corners work anyway. 14" work well too, if you can get the right tyres which seems to be the biggest problem when using smaller wheels. But don't forget the limitation on brake size when using 14" wheels..

All Silvia's would be RHD wouldn't they?

Very schmick, like the wheels too.

What Owen said. 8)

There is/was a 240Z in Sydney which had the complete dash out of a lateish model Nissan fitted, saw it last year, from memory it looked quite good. Don't know how much work was involved, donor was a Silvia, 180 or 200SX, something like that. The alternative which I've thought about is a custom 'race' dash, lots of aluminium with a pad along the top. The minimumilist look. BTW Dan, that car of yours is gorgeous. Even if the steering wheel is on the wrong side.