260DET

Trade the Tokico's in on some proper shocks, like Koni's or Bilstein's.

Mr Koni is now making a 'budget' double adjustable insert, the 8611 series, just found them on the Koni North America site Summit Racing list them at US$225.39 each. I'm excited. Just have to work out a way to get at the bottom located bump adjusting screw without pulling the ball joint off.

Yeh the single adjustable Koni Sports are good, there is a set in the car now. But as the car keeps being developed, something that was once satisfactory sometimes becomes less so.

Have been looking at the Koni 2816 double adjustable series, the 8610 are single adjustable aren't they. I'm pretty sure that the car needs more bump on the front and getting double adjustables seems to make long term sense.

It looks crap. he,he, haaa

No close up photo, for the location look hard here on the bottom left of the car, the red bit above the triangular 'tow' sticker http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9244&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 Basically I used an eye bolt from a hardware and welded that to a bracket bolted to the body where described.

These look promising, bump and rebound adjustable, anyone here using them and do you know GC's email address? http://sth2.com/Z-car/shocks.htm

BTW here are the Dunlops I mentioned http://www.stuckey.com.au/new/2004%20TARGA.htm Sounds like Kuhmo may have changed the name rather than the substance of their R tyres. So Hoosiers are better than Kuhmo's?

Where the front bumper brackets bolt to the body is where mine was put. Has to extend forward a fair bit to be accessible, through the air dam if necessary.

Looks like the V70A is new then, I believe that most of the tread pattern is quite shallow unlike eg the Toyo's, see them here http://www.tiretrends.com/catalog2.php3?newCurrencyCode=1U&tireID=364 Might try them anyway, about three quarters of the price of the DO1J's.

Nearly time to replace the Dunlop DO1J R tyres and the Kumho's are available at a good price. The car does high speed race circuit work, 5-7 laps per session. No wet weather or road use, the tyres are changed at the circuit. It gets very hot here in summer so the medium K8A compound would seem best all round. So if anyone has used V70A's your comments would be appreciated. As well as the Dunlops, Toyo, Hoosier and Yokohama's are available but only more Dunlops or perhaps the Hoosiers would be considered. The Toyo's are good but not quite right for my application.

What I'm going to do some time is post pics of my non-engineer designed structural steel adjustable rear control arms. Give the real engineers a chance to pick them to bits, get some of their own back.

Well there you go, nothing like a bit of robust discussion is there. From looking at the responses it seems to me that there are a lot interested.

Just wondering why it seems to be the done thing to have suspension parts made from chromoly? The little bit of checking I've done on chromolly indicates that the welds require post treatment and that chromoly tends to break under impact rather than bend. Anyway, I made my adjustables out of structural steel that does not require any special welding, etc. Will have to do some pics of them sometime for my gallery

Looks like it should work well aerodynamically and with an undertray. I'd be looking at blocking off the airflow to the radiator above the bumper bar bit, there is going to be far too much air trying to go into the engine bay as it is. Overall: good.

IMHO early Zeds look silly with a wing, but emphasise, IMHO. Perhaps more importantly a wing will almost certainly cause more drag than a conventional spoiler. IIRC those spoilers actually reduce drag.

I'm getting a set of Buddy Club P1 8x15" 12mm positive offset for mine. But my car has coilovers and the front guard lips have been lightly rolled.

Mat, whatever is causing your bucking problem it is not the springs being too hard or mis-matched front/rear. My car has had various springs between 220 and 300 before settling on the present 275/275 combination and it never bucked. It could be the bump setting on your rear shocks but it seems more likely that it is a suspension binding problem somewhere.

At last, looks like there is a lightweight 15 x 8" wheel of modern open design at a reasonable price to suit the Zed offset. Only thing is the PCD for the P1 is mentioned as 114mm not 114.3. Have a look here http://www.aj-racing.com/BC-wheels.html But here they say that the PCD is 114.3. http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/wheelmodels/466 Anyone using these? Opinions? Think I'll get a set for the track tyres.

Best looking racing Zed I've ever seen that Spirit Garage machine.

Well a Quaife at ~ US$1200 seems to be the way to go IMHO, fit and forget. I'm saving up. And 80LTI's site had them cheaper again. http://www.midatlanticmotorsport.com/quaife.htm

8)

After a lot of checking I decided that a half cage was worth a try in my '77, used on the road and at the race circuit. Particularly after having driven a car with a half cage, it felt stiffer than mine and seemed to have more corner grip. Anyway it works, definately a better less creaky car to drive and particularly noticeable is the improved power down out of corners. And the entire structure is behind the driver, no trauma bars to bang your head on and all the interior trim is retained. Heres some pics, fingers crossed http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=index&cat=11121

Good old dad, eh. OK check this stuff out, a favourite around here. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=22&PHPSESSID=a454ea16c7bfe4a558de2f887b8829b4