260DET

I'd forgotten about that but now that 'the big upgrade' is nearly finished it might be resurrected. Solenoids can be bought from DIY electronics places, have to watch out for the dreaded turbo heat effect on electrics.

What he said ^^^ about cf, 15-16" wheels

Thanks John, was wondering about putting something between the flares and the guards.

That G-nose transforms the 280ZX, the original front and the tail light area are the S130's ugly points IMHO. Plus they desperately need lowering and a set of wide wheels

Done a search, what I'm looking for are some close up pics of ZG flares (over fenders) correctly installed. Because I have a set and want to do the installation correctly. Oh, and what hardware was used to bolt them on? I'm thinking of some stainless steel cross head threaded screws. Thanks, have a good one

Thanks Alan, just did a search and this turned up. Wanted info on the 'over fender' colour which as you said is what they call the ZG flares in Japan. All I need now are some good close up pics so mine can be installed correctly.

OK it wasn't put very well :neutral: what I was getting at is the 'change in distance' between the front axle and the outer pivot point. With bump steer spacers that distance is increased. Moving a pivot point up or down alters the roll center, what I was wondering was whether the 'change in distance' by itself alters anything that affects handling.

As you probably know, a car can be checked for bump steer when getting a wheel alignment by moving the front of the car up and down on the suspension, at the same time checking for any change in toe due to that movement. What I have wondered about in relation to the 'bump steer' spacers is if they have any other effect besides altering the roll center. Because they raise the outer pivot in relation to the axle.

With an aftermarket ECU and MAP sensor you can vent to the atmosphere no problem. Mine has twin Bosch BOV's and makes a ricey PSSSHHT quite loud when going to 15psi boost, think that some Saabs used the Bosch BOV as original equipment.

With my last spoiler a flat aluminium sheet was attached to the front of it, underneath, and then back to under the Xmember. Various attachment points were used or made up. This helps airflow, supports the spoiler and prevents crap splashing up on the engine from the road. So how much did the spoiler cost all up from Japan DE? Or shouldn't I ask

May not be relevant here but sometimes when an upgraded clutch is used it will not disengage properly no matter. The solution is to go down in the slave cylinder ID, or up in the master cylinder ID. Some clutches seem to just need that extra bit of travel in order to disengage fully.

Where did you get that spoiler from?

Mine is staying under the bonnet for several reasons. One, with a shield and air feeding in through one of the stock radiator support panel holes it will get cool air with the car moving. Two, it is protected from most rain, etc, there. Three, it is more important to give priority to intercooler location, piping runs, etc. Trying to use the inside mudguard area for location or feed is inefficient, in there it is a low air pressure area.

If they are the big ugly lumpy ones with a concentric float bowl they are worth........zero $. Can't be economically serviced.

Ooooh, is that a yellow 280ZX coupe there?

The other point is that completely solid mounting the diff turns it into a structural part of the car, which it was not designed for, nor were the bits its attached to. May not cause a problem but why take the risk when there are several better alternatives

Better in the wet than the Kumho's I'd guess, a friend of mine uses them all the time. Put it this way, I'm getting a set of Kumho's and will not be running them on the road.

Good choice, I was thinking of importing to Oz a set of those. But what with a new turbo, intercooler, throttle body, oil cooler........

Stability under braking may be influenced by many things, just one of which is camber. Using R tyres with up to 3.5 degrees negative camber my car is completely stable under high speed braking up until lockup. While the suspension settings have been changed over time, braking stability has remained consistently good. I've never heard of any Z braking instability problems other than those due to incorrect proportioning. Seems that the Zed is inherantly stable under braking and will remain so if kept in sound condition.

Peter, good luck with your project but a competitive targa car is set up much more like a circuit racer than a dirt rally car. Also to be competitive you will need to be very familiar with the targa setup because targa events are basically full on street races that go all day, the streets being longer and faster than usual. From talking with targa participants it is also clear that they are becoming tougher each year, the bloke who won his class in Classic Adelaide this year is a very experienced driver while his S30 is a big dollar no expense spared car eg it has top of the range Proflex suspension With the S30 the springs are a bit softer than for circuit work but the shocks are very capable, Bilsteins being the basic requirement. Suspension travel is a bit more than for a circuit car but not near as much as for a dirt car. Friends of mine who did their first targa this year are doing selected tarmac sprint events using the targa setup to practice for Adelaide next year.

Love this sort of stuff A bit of a proposition. If you were getting some toe out under front suspension compression, you could use that characteristic by simultaneously braking and turning into corners. Assuming that you were braking hard enough to put the front suspension into compression. Just another example of driving to the cars characteristics I suppose.

First rule of cornering - always get on the inside Yeh it gets driven to and from with the R tyres stacked inside, not a daily driver although it could be with air con.

Street corner drugs > memory

The early 5 speeds had Porsche type syncros and that was it. Later 5 speeds IIRC had BW type syncros. Perhaps they were called 'competition' boxes in the US because some race Z's had them?

My green Z exiting a 180 degree fairly tight third gear corner onto a straight which goes away to the left. Moderate body roll, probably a touch of power oversteer, not as much front wheel turn angle as it may appear, the front spoiler is not wide enough to cover the outer part of the tyre tread. Look OK? Well better than the yellow one eh