260DET

Ooooooh, love that ZX coupe, and the wheels

Intense 5? Don't like any of them really, sorry but the retro look is better IMHO, personal taste of course 8)

The front struts? I've heard of Z31 struts being transplanted (with some steering mods?) which if done would give you bigger brakes and five stud hubs.

The R180 LSD situation is one I'll be looking at soon but there does not sem to be any easy/cheap used parts option. You can let me know how you go Mat, we may be able to help each other. One thing that is on the agenda is CV jointed axles to go with the R180. Yeh I'm in the Z Car Club, meeting this Thursday night I think.

The reason why I mentioned the Silvia is that for drifting they use very heavy springs, way more than 300 lb, and the body seems stiff enough to handle such loadings. The Z body simply can't do that, not without substantial reinforcement anyway.

I can't recall seeing that particular conversion discussed here in the past, but then again....... Is it a clutch, viscous or gear type LSD on those?

Probably a good idea to check the more drifting orientated forums. One comment though, with those spring rates you certainly will need a full 'roll cage', probably more like a tubular sub-chassis, if you get my drift, pun intended The 240Z has a relatively flexible body, springs at those rates will just force the body to flex. So you are going to have to strengthen it, not merly install a roll cage. One of the reasons why the Silvia makes a good drift car is its stiff body, they make a handy race car for the same reason. On the subject of shocks, check with Koni.

The retro deep dish look is what I like but those are very good. They suit the car and are brake friendly

Didn't Nissan use the T5 in the most heavy duty applications? Anyway, my guess is that the T5 is the strongest.

Thanks all, looks like that project is a goer then. Hmmm, wonder what CV arrangement will work, what used Torsen et al center will fit, what.............

The plan is to replace the present R200 clutch LSD with a R180 gear LSD and CV jointed axles. With the cars projected turbo setup there will be around 280-300 RWHP and a fair gob of torque. The car is used for road and circuit racing, all big power starts are rolling. A lot of you American racers seem to have no problems with the R180 gear LSD but I'm unaware of the power outputs and start types involved. So I'm looking for informed opinion as to any potential reliability/durability issues with the proposed R180.

IMHO the most practical solution is to use calipers that incorporate a handbrake mechanism that works the existing disc brake pads. It isn't even necessary to use ventilated rotors in my experience, my rear 295x15mm solid rotors don't overheat over five or six laps of a twisty circuit involving some pretty heavy braking. They work great and save weight over ventilated. There were quite a few cars which used the 'all in one' calipers so there are choices.

Am looking at fitting a set of urethane bushes now although I still have reservations about their durability. So from those that have used them, what is their usual service life, what brand would you recommend and where to buy in the US? Yep I did a search but found nothing specific to all my questions. Interested also as to whether or not such urethane bushes are bonded to inner and outer steel components, like the OE rubber bushes, or if they are merely plain urethane. Thanks for the anticipated learned responses

If you still have the stock proportioning valve, as Jon says most of the present braking effort will now be on the front. A lot more than the usual. So, fit an adjustable PV and upgrade the rear brakes. Its quite surprising what a difference upgraded rear brakes with a properly adjusted PV can make.

Ran across a British site that supplied custom wheels made to order. They had a good range of styles including a lot of old school ones featuring classic American and Italian designs. Brilliant stuff Didn't note the site or prices though. Dumb post

Damm quick cars around a racing circuit too, a few of them come to the supersprints where I run the Zed. Takes a big dollar GT-R to beat them, fastest bang for the buck daily driver around

He he, how to get noticed OTOH it could make the basis for a V8 engined rocket, minus the paint scheme of course

Look as good as new

A roll cage may be either bolted or welded in. Have a look in my gallery for pics of a bolted in half cage.

That area would seem to be fairly stressed, what with the inner suspension arm pivot points, diff mount, lack of overhead strength and the intersection with the transmission tunnel. If I was doing mine again I'd look very closely at what could be done to beef it up a bit around there. Maybe a piece of square tubing running between the wheel arches and tied in everywhere? Be interested to see what you come up with Jon.

Can't see why it wouldn't work, Terry. Don't the later model IRS Nissans such as Z32's, S14's, Skylines etc have a looped top suspension arm? The arm has a circular center, the circular part drops over the shock or whatever is back there. What you are proposing will change the scrub radius of course. For better or worse I wouldn't know. The geometry is going to be similar to that of a double A-arm suspension setup, unequal length by the look of it. Lots of things to consider there

That looks like surface rust resulting from inappropriate surface preparation prior to painting. But if the paint is very old it could have deteriorated so much that moisture was able to seep through to the metal underneath. On our old cars the visible bare metal should be treated with diluted ???? phosphate, called Deoxidine, Metal-Prep and others, allowed to dry until a light white powder appears on the surface, then hit with primer immediately. It doesn't look too bad at all Jon, there does not seem to be rust breaking through from inside, just surface rust. For underbody metal I'd use something like fishoil as a primer although that can take ages to 'dry' sufficiently to overcoat. Anyway, something that neutralises the rust and won't easily chip.

In that case one mm out should not be a problem.

Yeh, the el cheapo brake cooling duct. But it works As you all probably have worked out, the donor 6.5" Volk's were three piece with a suitable backspace. The wheels were disassembled, the flange for the outer part of the rim was then cut off and welded onto a sectioned piece of replacement wider rim. Not easy and not cheap but that sort of negative offset lightweight 8" wheel is virtually impossible to get in Oz.