260DET

What you get done when you can't buy a lightweight. Made on Volk centers, the original 6.5" weighed just 4.9kg. All thats needed now are some 225 R tyres.

The most accurate way to work out what will fit is to measure the maximum backspace available. Spring diameters are relevant, coilovers usually use smaller diameter springs than stock so that can be taken into account when measuring backspace. Once you have the backspace measurements you can then work out what width wheels will fit, considering any flares or other mods in that area. Its a bit of a PITA to do this but it will give a definitive answer to your question 8)

Thanks, I'll try zero then go toe out if the problem persists. One thing with the R tyres I've used some of them do tramline and wander quite badly even with toe in. Which is one reason why my car now gets loaded up with racing wheels

The usual front toe setting on my car is one mm toe in but I'm looking at changing this to one mm toe out to improve turn in on the track. Apparently this will cause more front tyre wear when driving the car on the road and may cause some instability. The present front alignment details are caster 5 degrees and camber 3 degrees negative. I've been told that with those settings instability should not be a problem, I don't drive on the road with the R tyres. So I'm wondering what the experiences of others are who drive their cars on the road with toe out and what alignment specs they use.

Those Vs XX are magic

That 630-ALK number plate looks very much like the superseded green and white plates we used to have in my State. Not my cars though 8)

Hmmm, what you could do with that whaletail is hinge it and use it as an air brake. When you're slowing down from 150

To keep it brief and exclude the bolt in things, I'd get a body/chassis stress analysis done then work out how to dramatically stiffen the whole show. With a minimum of intrusive bars. So it will drive like a proper race car on the left and rights. Then flare the guards out and run wide big polished lip deep dish wheels. Suspension? Basically OK, look at making sure that vertical movement is not unduly impeded when pulling a lot of side G. Engine? Probably a V of some sort, mainly because to CofG of a V is lower than an inline job. And to one up Guy, a titanium exhaust system

Complete Skyline rearend. It all comes on a sub frame, just a matter of making up mounting points on the Z underbody. Then bolt her all up. Been done at least once.

The way I read it is that the Torsen's characteristics are derived from a combination of varying forces and friction involving all or some of the components, depending on the situation at any particular moment in time. If friction involving the side gears against the case only was involved then this could be generated much more simply than the variety and complexity of the various components indicates.

Good work, the ZX has a lot of potential in that way and you are realising it. Make sure that you keep us up to date with progress

Great discussion but more gears in the Torsen/Quaife unit would explain why the oil runs hotter than in a conventional diff. The extra heat doesn't have to come from an extra high friction source such as clutches or high thrust surfaces.

Checked here? http://www.microtechefi.com/

K-mac do adjustable suspension bits for the Z31, I mentioned this recently here with a link. A search should reveal all.

So the L28D front case also gives the correct tilt? IIRC L series engines/gearboxes tilt to the right, I know that FJ20's tilt to the left.

From what I can tell it is a RB20DET gearbox, like the one thats presently being fitted with minor mods to my FJ20DET engine. What I think has to be done, I'm not sure, to fit that box to an L series engine is to use a L series box front case. Which would have to be modded to accomodate the larger front layshaft bearing and the larger diameter selector shafts, at least. Some of those boxes have a double syncro on second gear, they are a good strong box with good ratios. And the shifter is a lot better. They are similar to the boxes used in later turbo Silvia's and 200SX turbos.

Some of you blokes must have a lot of guts, sitting gearboxes on there

How much for the Simmons, if you don't mind me asking Very hard to get in those sizes eh. Surest way is to measure the amount of backspace your car will take. Fix a straightedge to the cars wheel hub face and measure back to the struts, springs, etc from there. Have the suspension at ride height.

17 x 8" is awfully big if you have'nt got flared guards, I very much doubt that they would fit comfortably with any offset. I've just measured mine up for 15 x 8" and decided on a backspace of 115mm. Mine has 90mm OD coilovers with rolled front guards, tyres are 215's, and hopefully there will be a finger width clearance in critical areas.

Some of the 80's era five speed Nissan gearboxes have a couple of separate gears on the countershaft cluster. But yeh, best to buy a box with the ratios you want rather than chase after bits and pieces, keep the old one as a spare.

You have it in gear and are turning the output shaft a bit? So that the input shaft splines line up with those in the clutch plate? I've made up a jacking point for the front of the gearbox, bolts to where the clutch slave cylinder goes on. For the back, a rope looped down through the gear lever opening in the trans tunnel. A bugger of a job though.

Yeh I don't have personal experience of a two way -v- one point five way LSD comparison JM, however drifters like the two way so if they do I don't But if you don't have any off throttle handling problems then no worries eh.

Two way LSD's are a favourite with drifters, one point fives are more usual when your'e looking to gain grip rather than lose it.

The all round strut suspension on the Z is one of its strongpoints it seems to me. The single greatest problem with the Z is the flexy body, the more rigid the chassis (body) the better the stock type suspension will work.

IMHO the half cage by 74_5.0L_L is nearly as good as mine No seriously, his door and side bars add extra strength and protection, good thinking, a nice piece of design and execution. As for having two diagonals meeting at the back of the transmission tunnel like mine, it seems to work very well but was a real bitch to make. I had to weld in a raised pad on the tunnel for the cage to mount on. To do that commercially would add a lot of cost plus make it a lot more expensive and time consuming to instal.