Juarez88

I wish they cut the crap and went with a v8 already. Unless they plan on making 4-5 liter v6 engines within the next 10 years (looks like its heading there), there really isn't any way to avoid going v8.

I'll replace the sensor as it appears to have a small amount of damage to it and see if that helps. Thanks for the quick response!

I'm about 75% completed with my car to get it on the road after fire damage and one of the issues I'm having is with my coolant/water temp sensor/gauge. The coolant/water temp gauge on the car never worked and I never got around to looking into it until now. One thing that I noticed was a sensor type plug that was connected to the thermostat housing cover (see photos). The wires were severed somehow and were disconnected. I'm hoping this is why my gauge isn't working but I can't find this sensor in the haynes manual or on another 73 parts car I have. my car is a 1973 240z with round tops. If any of you know what part this is and where I can get a replacement, please let me know! thanks

do you care if its original? Maybe a few years from now many more people will value stock all original Z cars as we can see dumbass prices for the cars on ebay now. If the numbers match and most things in the car look 1972 original, then keep it stock if you value stock. If you don't, take out the l24 and swap a very nice clean v8 and leave all the original engine equipment laying stored somewhere. or.... you can just buy another z for a swap.

after a quick search on youtube videos it seems like this stuff has been around for a while now. another http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIgOn1kRw5s water powered drag cars I guess we haven't seen this technology being marketed in major auto makers because big business companies will lose a ton of money off our dependent motors. It'll happen when big corporations want it to.

I just bought my mother Crash Proof by Peter Schiff. I haven't invested in stocks yet, but I plan to in the near future. I just need to find out a bit more information and know the game. Peter Schiff suggests Americans to invest overseas because the value of the dollar is steadily declining. Anyway, the book seems to be getting really good reviews (4.5/5 on amazon).

im going to bump this thread for a quick question. would a bad relay cause windshield wipers NOT to turn off? Whenever I turn the windshield wipers on then switch them back to the off position, they won't turn off. I also hear a clicking sound ever 5 or so seconds from the relay. p.s my car is also a 73' 240z.

Tiara. Because that is the street I bought the car on.

I thought about this a bit more. If you're going with illegal seats and a harness, the least of your worries is the cop who wants to write tickets for the little things in your car. If a cop is going to write you up for a illegal harness, he's probably going to write you up for an illegal engine swap too. All he has to do is ask you to pop the hood and see a nice big ls1 engine in there and play around with you and write multiple tickets for illegal swaps (seats, harness, engine, loud exhaust, emmisions (74+), no 5mph bumpers, lowered suspension, ect). long story short. if you're worried about a ticket about a semi-little thing that a cop might decide to give you, then you have to make sure your whole car is legal.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=300408 This is a quote from of the evo members: In SoCal you will for sure get attention from the police for having a rollbar and hopefully your seats aren't red, but those 2 aren't going to get you any tickets. But don't use a harness on the street, a friend of mine got a ticket for using a 5-point while driving around. Keep your stock belt in place and use that while daily driving the car. -----------

So I posted a thread about a month ago requesting some help on what to do with the fire damaged dash harness. After replacing the gauges, getting hold another windshield and finally locating the correct replacement dash harness, I began to connect the gauges to the harness. There were a few things that were bad like the hazard switch, cigarette lighter and cut wires that are supposed to connect to the amp gauge. After connecting the gauges I noticed that I missed something. It's a cylinder shaped thing behind the tachometer that connects to part of the wiring harness. It was destroyed by fire so I took it apart and saw that a light bulb was inside it. It almost looked like it was a light, but I couldn't tell because it was half melted. I checked the haynes manual but couldn't find it. Anyway, here it is. P.S It is a 1973 240z

http://www.rustrepair.com/repair_panels/onlinecat.htm?r=ru&p=sm Sells rockers and quarter panel replacement sheet metal. They list the rockers for 65.70, quarters for 73.80. I'm not sure about their reputation so you might want to ask around. tabco, mill supply also have parts too. P.S mill supply too me to the rust repair web site. Maybe they are the same company?

just save for a carbon hood. so that way you dont have to say something like " it looks cool " or.. " to make it look faster " if someone asks why you painted it black. In los angeles I see 3-5 ricer cars a day driven by older men (usually hispanic looking, ps. i am hispanic). They probably bought them for pennies off the teenagers who felt embarrassed after making them look funky years ago after seeing 2 fast 2 furious. I just get a bad vibe from the whole want the " go faster look "when I see cars. Your car looks great the way it is and has some good parts. I would save some bucks and make the car perform even better and get a carbon hood and hatch if wanted the " go faster look ". It'll cost a pretty penny for carbon fiber, but once it's done. it's done.

I check barret jackson to see how much a 240Z has sold for and the highest listed one sold for was 21000 in 2005. http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/search/w_search.aspx just search datsun, 240z. I'll probably be dead once it hits 100k Here are the details for the lazy... 1971 DATSUN 240Z COUPE BURGUNDY InteriorcolorBLACK Summary2393cc/250hp Inline 6 cylinder with a 5-speed. Custom restoration to 1st Place winning specs. Featured in "Hot Rod" magazine. DescriptionZ lovers dream! Winner, 1st place in its class 1999, and 2000 Portland Roadster Show. "Car of the Week" - "Motorweek Television". And featured in "Hot Rod" Magazine - "Reader's Ride". This is a custom, high performance restoration with "new original" factory parts throughout. It completed a 1/4 mile time in 13.8 seconds and races over 150 mile per hour. This Z runs and drives like no other Z you've experienced. Engineering and mechanics: Professionally built.

there are a few Zs that are said to be pushing 600+ on the tracks. these are just from the top of my head. I'm sure there are plenty of others. p.s the driver of the buick powered datsun is 75 years old...

It's 74 and earlier in CAL. I asked at a woman at the dmv about 6 weeks ago when I registered my 73 240z. It sounds a little confusing because the law is something like " anything pre 75 is smog exempt". anyway, looks like 280z's don't make the cut off date.

A Mazda 20b peripheral port might catch your interest. A serious drag 20b turbo by abel ibarra Another peripheral port turbo This one is a bridge ported 20b. Finally! Here is a swap a guy did for his mazda capella 20b peripheral port link to his thread http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=689110 Mazda 20b engines are not that hard to find and are around 3700-5000. After that, it's probably another 6-10k in parts to build it to that condition (yourself of course). I've heard it's around 30k to have a shop do the swap for you. anyway, hope this helps. If you are interested, here's a link to a pretty good site that has some pretty good rebuild videos to date on rotary engines. They are currently working on a " do it yourself 20b engine build video and 26b engine build video". http://www.diy-re.co.nz/

I'm pretty sure the person who made it wasn't planning on making it a show car. Seeing that is gets 80-90mpg, he will save around 30-50 bucks a month if he were to drive that as a daily It's pretty cool. Not the best looking, but who cares. Once I read it was a civic I knew it wasn't going to be.

that looks pretty good for not being made with a welder. I have a couple of questions though. Would it be flimsy because it was made without a welder? and If it's a daily driver, where would you mount the vin number so you will avoid harassment by cops? I ask this because a ford mechanic/instructor told me you can get in to a lot of trouble if you mess with the vin locations.

One of the aluminum dashes I've always liked is the one that Amir had in his 260z (when he had it). It looked like really well made.

Bad Dog Parts and datsunzparts (one word in google will find it) are supposed to be really good suppliers of floor pans from what I have been told.

I'm going to bump this thread to ask a dash harness part number question. So I took the advice that was suggested (remove dash,ect) and have all the replacement parts with the exception of the dash harness. I tried asking several dealers and part guys if they carried it but no one came through. It wasn't until this morning someone returned my call once they found a harness. So, here's my question. I have a 1973 Dash Harness with the part # 24013, N3321/N3322. Would I be able to use a harness with the part # 24013 N3324/N3325 OR # 24013 N3326/N3327? Apparently 1973 dash harness are not interchangeable with other years (from what I've been told by a few people) so it makes it a little more difficult determining which harness would work. Hope one of you has the answer to this question, thanks! PS. I searched but had 348 results. I looked through about 120 of them but didn't find anything on this.

I'll keep an eye out here in South Gate!

I feel embarrassed saying this and posting in this section again, but I don't want to take any chances. The other day I was removing old vents and hoses so I can plug up the holes in the firewall to help avoid engine fumes. Anyway A couple of the hoses were attached to a metal box (behind the center console which holds some vents in the dash) and the nuts were held on tightly. I used wd40 to loosen the nuts and was able to remove them with no problem. As I attempted to remove the box It was caught between something and I was unable to see what it was (night time). I didn't notice that it was bare metal and the surface it was held on to was metal and as I wiggled it out it ignited the remaining wd40 residue. Being an old car dust/cobwebs were around and before I had any time to react it had spread to the remaining plastic vents in the dash and was nearly out of control.I tried franticly to put it out using everything I could find and was finally able to with a fire extinguisher my roommate has. during the time the car was on fire, the lights turned on and off, the horn (though not connected correctly) and basically the entire car was acting out of control. I was nearly loosing control of the situation and my buddy disconnected the battery which shut off the lights and electrical stuff and we continued use water and a fire extinguisher to put off the fire. The aftermath of the entire situation was my rpm gauge, oil/amp,fuel and clock gauges were all fried. A few fuses in my fuse box were fried but amazingly enough the wiring to the fuse box was intact with a few plastic drops on them. The ignition wiring looks very good and has no signs of any fire damage to it but most of the wiring from the gauges is fried. I waited a couple of days for the wiring to dry on its own and during that time I cleaned up the car and inspected the damages before thinking of reconnecting the battery. So I reconnected the battery and it was dead (deka etx14) and had it charged. After reconnecting it with a good charge the windshield wipers were on and stay on. I can not turn them off and there is a slight whining sound coming from the firewall. The lights turn on, the turn signals work and the emergency lights work but the windshield wiper will not turn off. Whenever I tried to stark the car, I hear nothing. The fire did not reach the engine and most of the wiring looks intact and fine. I read the engine won't start sticky and would like to know if the horn going off and lights flickering sounds like a solenoid issue. Have any of you dealt with fire damage and wiring? I let my friend who is a electrician know and he's going to take a look at it and check the wiring for me. I would like a few pointers so I can do this properly and avoid any future accidents. I would note that one of the solenoids that was mounted in the dash was destroyed and covered with melted plastic. I'm really bummed out because my intentions were only to make this car drivable and get rid of the fumes. I wasn't messing with any wiring of mechanical parts of the car, I was only removing plastic vents and the metal heater box behind the center console. I made a stupid mistake that could have easily been avoided. The car is a 73 240z with roundtop carbs and appears to be stock. No aftermarket fusebox and there is no cd player, ac or heater. p.s i did call the fire dept and let neighbors know about the situation during the ordeal.

thanks for the responses but the problem was solved. gunk in gas tank. next time ill make sure to add its a 73 240z with round top su carbs though.