JSM

A very nice contraption indeed!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-V-8-240z-200-mph-V-8-240Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ017QQitemZ270176875146QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Not mine, but I'd like to see it hit 150 MPH!

Man, I would love you for a neighbor. My wife would never get me to come home. That sounds gay, Id go home for the right reasons !

Yes, those are early 70-71 4 screw SU's. You count the screws holding the dome down.

ROFLMAO! Thanks again! Just let me know when you need it back and I will bring it right back!

To me going through a similar project with a jeep, I wouldn't touch it, even if it was way cheaper. If your willing to spend the money on a rust free car and pay for shipping, find a car in Cali or Arizona. You will be much farther ahead. I was in the same boat, found an original owner AZ car for $5000 w/no rust all original. I was ready to fly out and drive it back, but found a local car in FL for $3750 w/ no rust.

How much for the: 1. Cheesy fuel Rail with fittings ? 2. Turbo is $30.00 3. Distributor ? 4. Oil cooler attached to oil filter Congrats if the pics of the new baby are yours! Shipped to 34786 Thanks jeffreysm@yahoo.com

What are the big differences in Photoshop 7? I have a copy at home is the reason I ask.

Can you share with what you would have done differently. I've come up with the 400HP as my goal, but again this depends on cost. I may settle with less. My first Purchase was a bone stock rusted 82 280zxt for the motor ($510). My second was a used Electromotive TEC 3 ($610).

You should have seen what I ran my motor on one time. I'm not worried about it moving around the garage.

Very nice. After seeing your parts list on your site, a 400HP L-Series is quite pricey!

LOL, good point. I just want to make sure I'm safe! I'm gonna do a few mods looking at the picks more. Yeah, I need to video tape this. Will see ....

Thanks for the compliment! Wood was free, had the screws, borrowed my neighbors saw and my welding is sketchy at best. Plus then I would have had to BUY steel. I knew I stored that wood in my garage for the past two years for a reason !

It's great to see humility now and then. You will go far on this site!

Cool, which swap did you do? Mine is an all stock 82 280zxt into a 73 240z.

3-1/2" screws everywhere. I agree about the front because it is cantilevered a bit. The back is light as all.

I want to run and play with my motor out of the car. I'm converting to stock 280zxt electrics because I have them. I want to make sure everything works and be able to work/ clean up the motor better. Do you think this would be safe to run the motor on? I have a real steel 3 wheel motor stand but need to leave the bell housing on so I could run the starter. It was very long and dangerous to run in my opinion. This seems and feels sturdy as rock. I want to drop the back of the motor down another 1/2" to 1" and make that vertical rear support flat under the legs so i can use casters. Funny is I measured the motor mounts in the car and they sit exactly at 45 degrees. Needless to say, this took most of my weekend. I think I stared at if for about an hour until I visualized this:

That was scary! Also nuts! Man the jail time would be incredible if they got caught. The power on that thing was amazing.

Lucky! At least your out of it. It is the worst feeling when your initially pulled. Congrats.

You went through ebay? Did you request his contact info via ebay: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQtZvbQQsofindtypeZ9 Just enter the item number and his ebay id and it sends you his contact info via email. Hopefully it is right. Good luck.

Yes you can run the NA motor with the turbo parts, but you can not run as high boost. I would recommend running the stock boost on the NA motor only, unless you run an intercooler or Methanol/water injection.

Man do I feel stupid. Thanks for the explination!

I really hate asking this question, because I'm quite pissed I can't find the answer myself. I've searched in so many ways it's rediculous. Switching over to stock 1982 280zxt Electronics in my 240z. I've read both of these threads until I'm blue in the face: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105103 From the first link in Figure N: -Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant) -Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) The end from the relay side needs to goto the switched power. Not the harness side. -Blue with red stripe - is switched power for your fuel pump relay (has 12+ volts when key is on, will have power for 5 seconds if car is not running to prime the fuel system, and will have a constant 12+ volts when car is running.) The yellow and white wires you see bent off to the side you will not need and wont be using HOW IN THE WORLD DOES THE FUEL PUMP GET INCORPORATED INTO THIS? The fuel pump has a green and black wire. Black I'm assuming ground. I dont' want to use the fuel Pump Modulator. I'm assuming any +12 that is not constant is swithced correct? This Diagram Incorporates the Fuel Pump Modulator yes? I'm just at a loss how to tie the Pump in.

I just wanted to say that I'm so glad to have meet and talked to some of you on the phone. The information here and the knowledge you all have is truely incredible! Thank you so much! Regards, Jeff

Very nice work. Kids, and work and being lazy and procrastination. I hate that one.