JSM

$50.00 but I think I sold it today already. If not I'll let you know.

I'll do it cheap and eat the difference $10.00. I can take a pic as well if your interested.

I've got an N36. $30.00 plus shipping.

Engine pic. Dual webers. Also I found an N36 intake, Brand new Clutch w/TB, little oil cooler and some new weather stripping.

I've got an extra one. $50 plus shipping. That is what I sold my last one for.

I only have the oil lines. I sent you a shipping quote via email. Thanks, Jeff

Craigslist as always! He was asking 500 for it and was supposedly offered 200. I told him to take it and run! I was going to offer 50 for it but I felt that was a little to low!

I figured for 75 bucks what the heck. I'm going to try and sell it whole for $300 firm or part it out. Lots of rust though. Decent set of 15" wheels that are pretty wide, Nice grant steering wheel and a urethane front air dam. On to the pics....

Thanks guys. Maybe I'll mess with it to improve on my welding skills then. Appreciate all the feedback.

By turbo oil lines you mean the line from the block to the turbo? Or are you after the engine oil cooler lines from the engine to the cooler? I have the engine oil cooler lines.

No good donor shell. To much rust in too many other places.

I'm thinking about tackling my wrecked 73 240z. Both frame rails are bent and possibly the entire body is tweeked a little, I haven't confirmed this yet. I'm ruling out doing a tube front end for now. I may be able to get my hands on an early 74 w/ a good front clip. How would I go about grafting the two cars together? Will it be straight? (I know dependent on my skills) Is it worth the effort? (I'm hoping to get the 74 for $75.00) Where would I make the cuts to ensure it will be strong? Thanks for any help.

My E31 head (suppossedly) had extensive work done to it. 1mm larger then 280 valves, new cam, ported etc. It's got a very large cam. I can get the lift/duration if your interested. It is quick. The car came w/ OER 45mm and I didn't feel like trying to find parts for the rebuild. So I bolted on the SU's w/ the N36 manifold. Supposedly my motor was dynoed at 200 crank HP w/ just SU's. I'd guess anywhere from 20-40 HP increase if I kept w/ the 45mm. I think the heavy cam could have really benifitted. I say suppossedly because the information I got was from the person who built the car, not the guy I got it from. My car is pretty quick, but no where near turbo fast. I run the E12-80 Zx dist which triggers the MSD 6AL.

Driving this weekend I think it is the rear shocks. My thought is if there is a leak in one or low on oil the shock itself may perk up after it is used a little bit. This would explain why it goes away once the car is run for a bit. Am I wrong in this thinking? Thinking back to my R/C days when we ran low shock oil. The other thing I've noticed a lot more bounce in the back, but it his hard to tell from such stiff springs.