duragg

Impressive! A D/S loop is probably a pretty smart investment.

The funny thing is nobody uses those cans of "Aircraft Remover" to either strip aircraft or remove aircraft. The L24 block I split came aparts totally spotlessly clean- Gasket was a FelPro. I really appreciated that. The F54 was a disaster requiring hours of sober time with a low-angle clean razer blade to get the big stuff off. Then lapping table.

Big thrash today getting the Z into code for my first HPDE this weekend (supposed to be pouring rain...in Arizona!). Anyways. Did alignment and safety check after the new Coilovers and brakes installed. Fixed placement of the Ball-Strap and ordered new compliant Shoulder straps. Hacked out the 1973 vintage windshield and installed new. Car was a nice green a LONG time ago. Actually shocked I got this in. I've done the side windows and hatch but my virgin front windshield. I'm beat. One beer and I about passed out.

Screwing up makes memories. That is the point. If the guy wants to cheap his motor and post it here, so be it. Do not heckle me for posting my comments in support. Cool?

Disregard. Serviced myself (again).

Anybody have a picture handy of that MSA Street bolt in roll bar with the optional SCCA belt attach? I need to see a picture for a modification and my Z is 30 miles away...

Glad I've never fucked up... Hope you get it sorted. I stretched one on my N/A build but was lucky enuf to not get heckled and now I have a cool desk ornament.

Thats pretty neat. For a guy with a lot of cars it would make sense. I've also been nibbling at some of the Auto Lifts for sale in Craigslist. Would love to have a full car lift in the shop. Some are around $1000 bucks, however I wander off topic, sorry. If those stands came with the scales it would be helpful too.

Disregard

You are right, its a strange dual piston setup. There are 2 pistons, but both are concentric and on the same side as the hydraulic input line. THe Inboard piston has hydraulic pressure. THe Outboard piston has mechanical pressure. I rebuilt them with the kit and its a funky setup. But trim and kinda neat. I can LOCKUP all 4 with my 225/50-15 on the rear and 195/60-14 on front with a full pedal push. I cannot lock them yet with just the e-brake handle, but close. I need to finish some mods to the ebrake mechanism. In defence, the front Toyota vented calipers have not fully finished bedding in yet, so they have some yet to give. I intend to make a CNC swipe through the pad to lower their power and restore balance to the world before long. There is always a way. But my w126 Coupe wants Tri-ys, and my ZHP needs LCABs and so we have to be careful with the impulse buying. TJ

Oh, wait Here it is. Its only one giant piston, with a goofy ratcheting screw inside. Frankly, they fit on real nice and bedded in with the disks nicely. My S12W fronts are still trying to find the whole rotor surface. Took the Tokickos up to #5 front and #3 rear which seems to help the buckboarding. I hit some turns pretty hard under power and wow, quite a setup. You cannot just plow into the middle pedal or all 4 lockup. Ain't no M3, but I think they could absorb a lot of heat.

We are talking about the rear 280ZX anchors? THey have an unmistakable... looks like a large flour tortilla, fried for a salad, draped over a beer keg, with a leg-of-loin hanging out the bottom. I have a picture of the caliper body somewhere, but it is so big, I have to

Improved with O'Reilly GL4-140 Still grinds some at 7000 shift into 2nd, but less and goes in quicker. Can live with it till it breaks.

Trying the other end of the spectrum for scientific analysis purposes.

I think it may depend on what's up front. If stock you might just want to try and run it see how it goes. Easy to add later if needed. I deleted my proportion valve due to bias issues from oversize front brakes.

I don't know the exact year as they came to me in a bucket with brackets for $50 bucks. I recall the rebuild kits were 1981? They are the GIANT ones that look like pie tins with a vice in the middle.

Clutch line is all good. In fact yesterday I was feeling where the clutch engaged at idle by pulling out of gear a little and releasing clutch until it just starts to grab and you can feel the gears begin to turn then. Otherwise it is fully free. I clearly screwed something up when I rebuilt it. This is the 2nd 5sp I rebuilt, but I sold the first and never drove it (poor btsarard that bought it). 3rd time... I will do better.

Please let me add. I am open to suggestion. If somebody wants to make a case based on experience I will make a further investment and do some testing. There was nothing on the magnet, no chunks or nothing.

I will review all the posts again. Heck I now have more money in fluid than I do in the Tranny! I got it free with the F54 L28 just for pulling it out. $150 for rebuild kit and here we are. Might try $10 bucks for some mole-asses since that is the opposite correction and basically free. Shifting at less than 7300 is not an option. My almighty 192whp was at around 7000 peak with the big chokes. Its all I've got... If I pull the motor out to do the tranny It will be expensive as I won't be able to resist a stroker rebuild while I have the motor out. Tempted to just get another shell, do nice body work,... and start swapping parts. I need to start drinking now as I am digging myself deeper in to projects.

Maybe for the interim I will go the other direction and try some really crappy dime-store heavyweight stuff. Bottle the GMSMFM back up for future reference...

No bueno. Maybe a little worse. Its only a 1-2 problem. Tranny is injured. Not sure when the injury came, or if my rebuild skills. Will find another 83 model to rebuild and swap, try again. Or maybe the SX swap.(Scratch that, too short gearing). Thanks for the great discussion. No type of gravy will fix a tough steak! Worth a try.

Ok, I'm done working for the day. Heading down to the shop to swap the sauce...

And the Throwout bearing would be transmitting some rotational energy as well, not much but some. No, wait, that is wrong. T/O connected to cage side spinning on tranny input shaft and linked to fork. I can't visualize that part of it. T/O pushing on clutch housing, with its little bearings riding on tranny input shaft? Add it all up and it is something. The higher the RPM the more the chance of outrunning the Syncro. Making sense to me. Chasing that deamon just a little higher in the range should do the trick.

Trying to remember my anatomy,.. the tranny input shaft has a bearing surface that rides on that brass bushing in the crank? I suppose it mostly just floats there, but in reality there is probably some transfer or energy from the 7000rpm motor into the decelerating transmission. So at the least, my clutch should engage as far "Pedal Out" as I can stand it to maximize release.

I have the ZG Flares but they quality is just not so great. I may have Tony-Baloney do a little of his sheetmetal magic with the Pullmax and Eng-Wheel to make me something cool... I tweaked the ride height down more last night and maybe near the limit for a functional street car. The rear coilovers have about 2" of down adjustment left and probably 4" of bump travel. The fronts maybe 1" left and 2-3" of bump travel I am guessing from looking at the snubber on the BZ shaft.