duragg

Grrrr.. Doing this now...

dbl

I ran my car with a similar setup through Arizona Emissions a total of 13 times and never got it to pass. I would get close on one measurement, and some other parameter would slip out. The kids at the DMV just LOVED it when I came and they took turns "driving" the Z. Then they enacted the Vintage Vehicle rule and I was exempted from smog. So the motor got rebuilt to mid-10 CR and with our crappy gas anymore I still run a mix of 100LL to keep it happy.

I just re-used my rockers on a newly ground cam. Checked the wipe pattern and after adjustments and grinding of some of the pads all looked perfect. I guess its a big no-no, but from what I saw at install and a few inspections since - looks just fine. Although the cam I removed was nice and square, and there was no unusual wear on the rockers. Bigger problem was the adjusting pads / shims which are NLA. I had to order huge ones and have them custom ground to get what I needed for best wipe.

Because a Cadillac station wagon has 600hp... its pretty tough to win the big-power game. When I stomp up the street at 7000rpm behind Triple Webers, people all go ---> (and, it was cheap to build a mildly pumped L28)

I should probably fix this the right way by adjusting the nose back up instead of dropping the back artificially. But at least now I know. What I like about the aftermarket diffy mounts is they make it easier to remove the driveshaft. Not sure why that matters. How often do we remove it anyway. I just couldn't stand that leather-daddy strapon arrangement.

Funny thing is this is now the 2nd starter with the same condition. When the lockup occurs, the volts drop way down, so there is a real draw. But turning the engine with the tranny by pushing shows no resistance. From a safety perspective I worry about the flywheel. From a financial perspective, if the motor blows I will just rebuild it. My other toy is a radial engine aircraft and a lockup during that on start can be a $25k F/U. If my little Datsun motor pops, I will just build another.

On a few occasions I have had the motor lock up. While cranking to start it just Bang, stops turning. If I put in gear and rock the motor some it turns fine. Crank again and it locks. If I roll it more it cranks and runs with no funny noises. Certainly never stopped from a running position, just during cranking. Perhaps the end is near.. * Hydraulic lock from fuel filling a cylinder, boiling over from the DCOE? * Somthing rattling around in the crank area (... missing woodruff key... ) * Bad starter? * Somthing hanging at the starter / flywheel area. * Flywheel loose and about to spin out? Eventually it will reveal itself... Tj

And you sir are 100% correct. Today I finally got around to spacing the mustache bar down as far as I could. Dropped it maybe 1/2" with spacers. Just enough so there was a thread showing on the lock nut. The vibration is gone. Thank you all. I never realized it was that critical. Tj

15 x 10s! Can't wait to finish coil-overs and cut the fenders to make room. Actually I'd like to find somebody with a 15x8 in the identical rim to swap 2 for 2 so we can all stagger...

Been reading a LOT of Megasquirt forums lately. I have read a lot of posts about problems with off-idle throttle response (tip-in). It would pain me to bail on DCOEs, just to spend the rest of my life chasing MS issues. Still researching, but seems it is tricky to dial in the initial throttle tip-in.

I beat mine in too. Probably my 4.375 ratio makes it worse.

Packrats destroyed the interior and wiring. There was no going back.. Mockup, highly detailed aerospace cardboard... took about 15 minutes.. Trial fitting, same day. Went for an aircraft style look. Is what it is ... Mine forever more at this point.

Well, since nobody has commented on my lowering the mustache bar to fix the lower front diffy mount- I officially know no better and will give it a whirl.

Plus I have a stock mount which looks like it places the top of the transverse mount about 1" away from the bottom of the 2 circular flanges on the diffy. Just wagging, but the mount today is about 1/2". RT / Energy Mount position.

IF you use the Energy Bushing: From: http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html The Energy Suspension top-mount places the front of the differential slightly lower than when stock, and the original bottom mount must be removed. This change in geometry is not significant in stock applications, but leads to slightly better driveshaft angularity with typical V8 applications.

Or I can go back to the stock diffy mount. Which is so UN-HybridZ

I have the "Technoversions" R/T mount with Energy bushing. I am ESTIMATING, this setup lowers the pinion about 1/2" compared to a stock mount. I have a stock tranny mount, but that would need to go UP? to match the angle of the lower pinion flange?? Or drop the rear of the diffy by spacing down the Mustache bar some to close the angles gap (I LOVE This idea because it is easy...).

So... Can i just use spacer washers and drop the mustache bar down a bit to correct mty geometry? Honestly I might have gotten the mustache bushings installed wrong when I put it all in making it even worse. I was just excited to get it all in at that time. Tj

I struggled with all these questions and held off making any big suspension changes. The LSD is the single most enjoyable part of my Z, so his list is right on: "Power steering"... I decided to start collecting parts for a total suspension swap. Now I have spare tubes, new stub axles, coilovers, bushings, camber plates, spindle pins etc. Once it is all ready I will swap the whole setup and be done forever. I am replacing the the brakes for looks and a cool profile tag-line more than performance to be honest. In the long run the cost to do Coilovers with the benefit of selectable ride-height just seemed like the correct cost delta for me. Having spare tubes just made the setup flexible with my schedule and I do plan to offer them (the uncut removed set) to the community once I am done.

Yes because you can keep the Level in the same relative position. Otherwise you have to turn the level around, and backwards, or sideways and you know they read a little different each way it seems. Or the indications are different and just introduces error. I suspect I will end up owing JM and others lunch for hitting the nail on the head. I was pretty sure the wiggly things were more suspicious. Through all this process, now I know a ****-ton (shitton) more about driveline than I ever did. A great new learning event. Tj PS: I like shitake mushrooms.

Going to try this procedure which looks a little easier and more repeatable. Leaves the D/S connected too. Universal_Joint_Alignment_Proc_111606.pdf

There is a good reason why I am in sales... Removed driveshaft= no vibration (surprise) Hard to get consistent measurements 1) rear of driveshaft pointed up 5 degrees above horizntal Diffy flange pointes down 5 degrees from hz Tranny flange pointed up 6 from hz 2) But some other times I got diffy down 4 and tranny up 7 (Facing each other so really they are close to in-phase., off by 3?) 3) Next I got 88 degrees up tranny, 87 up shaft, 88 up diffy (all meaning front to rear on this one) Terminoligy is tricky. Using the same face of the digital protractor is tricky for each. Beer please. More data: The stock mount has the diffy mount flanges about 1" above the cross member. I think with the R/T or AZC solit that is less, more like 1/2" From the website: The Energy Suspension top-mount places the front of the differential slightly lower than when stock, and the original bottom mount must be removed. This change in geometry is not significant in stock applications, but leads to slightly better driveshaft angularity with typical V8 applications.

Pull the drain plug and finger up in there..? Replace probably best option. Or live with it. No expert here. I have rebuilt 2 of them though.

Either the linkage rods are fouled up. or,, the nut came off the shaft and 5th gear is sitting next to the drain plug. How is reverse doing?