duragg

I did not know that the Maximas were that different. Got my 280ZX park brake lever kluged together, but not adjusted correctly yet so it isn't much good.

Back for a moment to my original question about why does the syncro match the rpm at low speed, but not at high speed. I was pulling on the stick... so the 2 items were certainly being presented to each other. At that high RPM as the juice get slung out and makes a film that the synchro floats on momentarily, before breaking through and stopping the relative motion... is my neat little theory. Does a thinner sauce allow that to happen just a bit faster? This has been reported on Hybridz and other forums. Not a Centerforce, its is the Arizona Zcar clutch. Bearings and brass rings from Drivetrain.com. Lovingly lapped and carefully assembled. Tolerences were all measure to that manual spec. All spins nice and easy. This car being a big experimental test-bed, I hope this little test will yield some result (nothing or something..)

Well then... this will be fun, won't it.

I seem to have plenty of adjustability and certainly no problems in other gears. Just when trying to SLAM 2nd from a 7000++ RPM 1st gear sprint, my only hope in life is to shift quick and keep it spooled up. When I do that 2nd is notchy and sometimes grinds. Tried regular gear oil, then MT90. Just bought the GM SyncroMesh Friction Modified (AKA: GMSMFM) stuff. Spent a few hours researching last night and the other forums all swear by it (as much as any concensus could exist). This includes the NSX, Honda, Mazda and many Mustang forums. One member contated Penzoil about their SM oil but he displayed an email from Penzoil Tech who said the FM product was a GM exclusive. So, at $14 / quart I just swung into the dealer, dodging the Zombies and got the true GMSMFM. Always wondered if FM is more friction or less friction...

I sure do appreciate that the Toyota S12w and the the 280zx rear caliper both allow changing the pads without removing the caliper. Not all cars do that and if a person were swapping pads a lot this is a big help. The price and serviceabillity almost make up for the weight and bias penalty.

GM part number #12377916 is the Gm Synchromesh with Friction Modifier that nearly all the other forums rave about. I will change to that today and report. I have the throw about maxed out but will double check.

17lb shaved but its a 240mm. Next round I would go much lighter. I've read dozens of threads on trans juice and others clearly indicate it makes a difference.

Trying to understand the dynamics of high RPM shifting. Specifically why does my 1983 FS5W71B tend to grind slightly when shifting from 1st to 2nd at 7300rpm. When I rebuilt this tranny, i carefully lapped in the new brass synchros. My theory is that at very high RPM the tranny fluid builds up and is acting like a bearing surface, such that the syncro ring is "hydroplaning" for lack of a better term and can't do its job right away. Tried regular tranny juice and then Redline MT90 if I recall (no change). Might try something thinner next or the GM Synchromesh synthetic stuff. Seen a lot of posts about different juices, but wanted to understand the mechanics of the delayed syncro function which could shed light on a partial cure. Maybe they just all do that. With just 200whp and a 4.38 rear end that 1-2 shift is pretty important for me...

Sure is nice to drive hard and not bottom out the front springs. Quite a different car with the Coilovers. I haven't tweaked the ride down to the final height yet, and the front Toyota S12w calipers aren't nearly bedded in fully yet. They still aren't making full contact with the rotor, so have a ways to go. Not sure a booster is needed with those.

Rehashing an old thread... 15x10s all around and put 225/50-15 Kuhmos on the front, but they are a tad stretchy for me. Not a great pic but you can see the 220/50-15 on 15*10 Kuhmo Ecsta AST Found this picture of a 235/50-15 on 15*10 are on the back with 15*9 on front. Gives a little more square look in the back and a bit more of the Staggered look I wanted. Is the Toyo Proxes R888 is a Competition DOT tire. But not just a Drag tire is it? I want to go around corners also... The crappy availability of fat-boy-fifteens is malo.

It might have been that LS1 260?

I would post some pics so the smart people can help. I got lucky with my 280ZX rear caliper / rotor / adapter. Found on Craigslist-bought cheap- perfect fit. Sorry...

This week my DCOEs are dialed in PERFECT! Man they love the cold weather. I checked all the airflows and they were perfect. Tweaked a few idles and reset for 1000 RPM and the car is in heaven! Summer bad... Winter good...

John, is this the appropriate location to measure the ride height? Wanted to get a visual lock on the exact measure standard we are using. This isn't the great picture I wanted. Location is just forward of the rear tire, outboard of that seem. PS: Please don't tell the authorities that Sasquatch is my mechanic...

I started teaching a friends 12yo son to drive a stick in my Z-car. The clutch is an issue for him as you can see below..

Ok, now in my defense... I really didn't have a good baseline to Measure from until I had the ride height set with the coilovers and tires installed and driven and settled. So the motto will be: Measure twice, Final cut once. At least now I can dial in the ride height (which I am addressing in the approriate location) and then make my final cut and weld. With a full machine shop at my free disposal this is just a few hours of labor on my behalf.

I bled the rears proper and today I was getting nearly simultaneous 4 wheel lockup. From reading the rotors, the pads aren't anywhere near fully seated yet, so all this will probably change. Indicator that I may be close enough on bias to not require any special steps.

I guess I miss the days of my 48hp 1979 Diesel Rabbit whose parking brake was used extensively for maneuvering (I was 16...). Saved my ass several times.. Now that I think of it, my Gen2 Rx7 had a great parking brake too. On several occasions a rapid course reversal was advantageous. I am older now and don't get into the same crap I used to. jT

Is your Parking Brake hooked up? I haven't rigged mine yet. How effective is the parking brake? If you reef on it can you lock up the rears? Tj

Congrats! When I got my 1st Z project off the spit it sure made me feel like a lot of progress. Glad I'm not buying the tires for that beast!

Interesting test: http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/scrp_0412_race_car_brake_bias/viewall.html

Well, sigh.. you know I only have tires on 2 of my 15x10s at the moment... The 15x10s rub slightly on the caliper as well. I will take a picture tonight of the caliper material removed. I suspect there is plenty of meat on the outside as I didn't perforate yet. Tj

Its fun to search all the other car forums and see what other guys are doing. We aren't the only car with bias issues. The Miata guys seem to be in the same boat, and the ones that race in certain classes have front excess bias. They are limited to the mods and from reading between the lines only a few will admit to exactly how they are cheating. But, They mill a large or larger slot or slots in the front pads. Reduces pad area and helps them change bias. Seems a bunch of guys in the "stock car" forums do the same thing to get heavy rear bias and more tail happy. So, yea spend Bucks on perfectly balanced Wilwoods or other options like Silvermine. Or live with crappy unbalance. Or get creative and see how it goes. Not much to lose I guess.

Brake pedal soft. Not sure I got all the air out, will bleed some more. Its a 15/16" Master cylinder. I probably need to adjust the pushrod some too. Front brakes are great...

Today: Bleed brakes proper. Connect parking cable. Clean shop