duragg

On my new S12W calipers with Vented Rotors, I know I need a spacer to move the rotor outboard for centering. Why can't I use machined spacers and longer hardwareto move the caliper inboard? The Caliper is mounted inboard of the hub and a 9mm steel machined spacer would do the same thing wouldn't it? My issue is that I don't want to push my wheels out any further outboard for various reasons. Searched, but didn't see this exact solution before. Tj

240z long oil filter and Castrol 10w40 with one qt of 20w50 10-20-2012 Is starvation on certain turns normal? Maybe I have the wrong dipstick.

Are all bump stops the same? I just got my Tokico BZs and before assembling my new coilovers I guess I need the right diameter bump stops. Say, I just acquired a spare set of 240 struts and they have really wierd "bilsteinn" struts in them with giant pistons. Different gland nuts too. I was literally going to throw them away (like the previous sets of KYBs...) but the look kinda interesting. Pic: Tj

Ugg, and the 9mm spacers to center the 31 rotors in the S12w calipers which just makes my stance problem worse... Must examine alternate methods of compliance... Precision grind 4.5mm from the caliper area and 4.5mm from the rotor mounting area...? Hmmm Back to the machine cave..

Tony Balony finshed all welding. Had to do a bit of cleanout of the strut ID to get a good clean fit. But all done now. Next is all the other stuff which I see I still need: Front: Bearings for my front insulators (Lost my others...) Bump stup limiter things? Bearing seal Toyota vented rotors and new pads for my Calipers Ball joint Decision on what to do with my spare LCA and TC rods. Rebush at a minimum? Rear Wheel bearing seal Outer bearing I guess... gonna reuse all the others, but the 27 spline stubs I am switching to are naked. Lock nut. Spindle pin and hardware All bushings for the new LCAs. Guessing thats about all I need left.

Fronts sectioned and ready for welding. I used a friends Band-saw which made quick work on the first 6.5" cut. Did some measuring and pulled 1.5" off the top section-Good fit. Made identical cuts on the second tube, perfect fit. Actually much of the above statement is false. A large amount of buffoonery preceded discovery of a rusted spacer in the bottom of one strut. The Left strut was cut a bit tall leaving the gland-nut almost dogged down before engaging the insert. Few passes in a lathe fixed that-Good fit. Flush with success from the first kill I cut the second Right strut dimensionally identical to the first- ~ERROR~. The insert sat proud by about 1/2" out of the tube. There was a bunch of old CracK and welding slag in the bottom which prevented the insert from going all the way down. Chipping, cleaning and some grinding on the thick flange on the bottom of that insert fixed it and both look perfect now. Manana I will cut the others and have Tony-Balony weld em up. He is going to spin up an aliminum insert to locate the 2 sections and align the gland hole perfectly. I shouldn't give him so much ****.

I have the pics of my build which look identical to the one posted above. They don't fit just right. You have to get them close and start tacking them in and add some little chunks of metal in certain places to tie it all in. What fun that was.

I just got BZ3099 and BZ3015 from ImportRP and the gland nuts suppied for the Toyota BZ3099 and the Datsun BZ3015 fit the Datsun Strut. What else could be needed? Tj

Yummy... Guess I shouldn't have thrown away the top-hats from my spare struts, or the bearings for that matter.

I must have gotten the last set. Mike at www.importrp.com has emailed me just about every other day to make sure I got all the shipments. My Bz3099 arrived yesterday and the gland nuts fit my Datsun struts. Yay. G/C finally mananged to pull the parts off their shelf and supposed to arrive today. TJ

Measured -44 today. 15x10 with total width lip to lip of 11". 7.25 outside / 3.75 inside including the lip.

I just troll Craigslist and find the AEM Wideband and sensor all day long for $100 to $150 bucks. Mine on the Z is toast from 100LL exposure. But I still have one in my Mercedes 560SEC which is handy for troubleshooting and max-power tuning (or at least getting close enough..) Hide discretely if you desired.

Sorry, I missed this. They are supposed to be -38. But every time I go to measure I get distracted. Judging from the pic of the front wheel there is TONS of space.

Some very helpful pics here as I try to figure out exactly how to fit-out my 15x10 -38s. Back will be fine, fits good. To my eye the front will be out of proportion with the back with the 15x10 and I may narrow depending how they look with flares mocked up and the Coilovers done.

BZ3015s arrived today... ") BZ3099s UPS says tomorrow. Ground Control C/O UPS says mid next week. FYI: Mike at Import Replacement Parts was super helpful. Did all the legwork with G/C and tokico to verify a few items. And they have Tokicos in stock (Tokico has a supply chain problem). www.importrp.com

You want Wideband for sure, and if you can put one on each section you are a smart man. Best investment I ever made for tuning my DCOE powered Z. The difference between lean stumble and rich bog can be tricky to determine. 1 Wideband and a 6 channel EGT from like an old aircraft GEM601 would be ideal...

Actually that was a "Preemtive Corona". I had it in the vice and put a bunch of pressure on it and wasn't sure if it was going to Blow-up or push out. In either case a Corona was in order so I went ahead and got that part started. A little more pressure and it came out. That Hydraulic Press is real handy. Problem is that 3/8" extensions make great press tools. All of my 3/8" extensions are toast. TJ

Dave is a good guy. A little quiet sometimes, but makes good stuff. I am lucky to live in Phoenix so when I need stuff I just drive down there and flash a stack of bills and pick up what I need. We are lucky to have suppliers that have innovated and offer such comprehensive product lines.

I went with ITM Cast and inclueded my Cam chart below. Dyno's 192 at 6900 (6700 is all now that I look back) rpm on DCOE40s. Do I kick myself for not future-proofing the engine? Not really. 7000rpm is fairly lofty for street use and I think the lower RPMs would be even worse for what? 7500rpm? If I redid anything I would put in a stroker crank with 240 rods and do the pistons then for the bigger bore anyways so it would have been a waste. Then I would do the bigger DCOE or a GSXR ITB setup which is all just a whole new process of un-screwing myself with all new crap. They are probably just fine for an NA motor. 2011 Dyno N240ZZ.pdf

I truly hated that part of my build and I will wait until the motor finally grenades before fixing properly. Did you use a new front pulley? MSA has a decent deal on one, but needs the ID honed a bit to fit properly.

Well the tire size is really one of the great paradox.. There just aren't many options on tire size in a 15 at all, Heck its not much better in 16 either. I spent an eternity looking at all the tire sizes compared to Negative offset wheel options and it is slim pickings. I agree though, will hold off sectioning the rims until everything else is done and then check and fix any fitment issues. Good thinking.

As a self-proclaimed and proud dickbag I can assure you that I bent the nails installing those heartless f-ing side seals I forced them to comply with my vision of "engine done finally" Only leaks a little which is nice. I resent those side seals personally.

Thank you for noticing. Round 1 is all structural and final tire choice may change. I have all spare suspension in buildup (sectioned struts, 27 spline stubs, disks all 4, flares , etc. ) The whole swap will happen at once and then I will finalize ride height chopping fenders as needed for testing. Ride height will actually stay about where it is now. Last step is mounting flares with jedi precision. Wheel mod is fairly easy for a great aerospace type machine shop.

I have 4 15x10 wheels with a -38 negative offset wheels for my ROPOS 240Z. I like the 10" width for the rear, but want more narrow up front. 10" just seems a bit steamroller-ish up front? I can cut 2 of these rims down by 2" and make myself some 15x8 for up front. I plan to run Kuhmo Ecsta 225/50x15 on all fours. Stretched a little in back, and more square up front it will be. They are actually sitting in a lathe at my friends machine shop for cut/weld tomorrow, but I will talk to him in the morning first. So, a few questions 1) I was planning to remove the 2" from the curb-side which leaves the same backspacing. Any reason to take it from the brake side vs curb side? 2) Am I a total dipshit for not liking 10" width up front? Just always wanted a staggered deep-dish rear end 240z. More data: Brakes will be Toyota 4x4 S13W I think they are called for the Vented rotors. Ground Control coil0vers going on at the same time. Will be cutting and putting on ZG flares. Not a DD. Any good tips will be happily considered. Tj

Winning