Danno74Z

Mike is correct. I tried to utilize the rear Z32 setup but finally had to say "that enough effort". Have to know when to pick up the chips and leave the game. On that note, I am trying something completely new for a rear brake system. If it works, I will naturally share my findings with the group and if it doesn't well... . Having fun experimenting and learning. Mike, I did have the 5lug hubs machined to match the offset of the 4 lug hubs. I can now use my custom rims!!!! and rotate should I choose. The machinist did an absolutely fantastic job. All surfaces are within 2 thousands. I probably have the only "custom" front Z hubs on the planet. I let the guy take his time, check-up once a week and he called me today and said come and get them. Our hubs are made from a very high grade of cast iron and require extreme care to weld. He also did the welding and again did a great job. A little off the subject but wanted to tell you about it. Danno74Z

Jeff, You da man!! Danno74Z

Can someone recommend a book that details floor pan removal and replacement in our Z cars? I want to do this right the first time and if a book was in print that describes and illustrates this procedure it sure would help. Thanks. Danno74Z

Dan, I went to a wreaking yard that specializes in foreign cars and picked-up a "junk" 300zx rear 5-lug rotor. Most yards have 55-gallon barrels filled with scrap rotors that don't meet the minimum standard for turning. They may even give you one. You can use that rotor as a template to redrill your drums. When you’re done with the used rotor you can give it back to the salvage yard for recycling. Danno74Z

Check the www.electromotive-inc.com web site for the latest TEC3. Danno74Z

Ron, You are correct about the 5 lug hub - it places the wheel mounting surface approximately 19mm outward from the original 4 lug mounting surface. I made a very costly mistake (I won't go into it) but one needs to add this dimension back into the equation when doing the 4 to 5 lug conversion. This has a HUGE impact when ordering rims. I'm sure you will have a much higher clamping force with the Toy calipers and yes you can use the stock rotor. With some good pads you should be fine for a daily driver with a much improved brake system. I'm not an expert on the front brakes yet as I am still working out my rear brake system. However, based on all the information I have, if you do repetitive braking with the Toy conversion you will still have brake fade because the rotor being solid will get hot very quickly and hold the heat for a long time. To truly upgrade the fronts one needs to use a vented rotor. Danno74Z

A word of caution, on using the LT1 engine in your conversion and also do a search as this has been review numerous times in the past. This engine uses the basic 350 block configuration that Chevy has used for 35 + years. On the LT1, the AC compressor is located very low on the passenger side of the block and is definitely in the way when trying to use the JTR setback plate on that side of the block. Some ideas. You will have to abandon the compressor completely and use a delete pulley (GM sells them), relocate the compressor – costly or go without AC. Being from SC, (South Carolina I assume) AC is just about a must, so an alternative mount is needed. At this time, I don’t know if the compressor will even fit between the frame rails and the “horn” that the stock motor sits on (passenger side) is also in the way. So, if you want to keep the AC, one will have to go through lots of gyrations to make it work. The LS1 motor uses a completely different mounting system as mentioned above and you will have to design and fabricate your own motor mounts.

400 ci 280Z Here is the link to the company in Canada that produces replacement floors and frame rails for all the first gen Z's. About midway down the page is: Replica Datsun Z Floor System pictures too. Goodluck. http://web.ctsolutions.com/zeddfind/ Danno74Z

Mike that link above is for Compusa the computer store. Try this link: www.usacomp.com/hb.htm Here is where I got the $1950.00

As Mike said brace yourself!!! $1,950.00 for a set of 4. I've been down this road for my rims. Too expensive unless you have a lot of money. Danno74Z

Hansen, Wow, I thought I was going to get shelled. The older LT1's also had some Optispark issues. Personally, I think blown way out of proportion. On 95' and up some vent tubes/holes were added to the "distributor" to get rid of potential condensation. From most reports the Optispark generally last about 100K so you maybe looking at changing it out. This is something to think about when the engine is out of the Camaro. I would forget about the radiator - too long for the Z. If I'm not mistaken 24" is all you can go in the Z and the Camaro is up around 30". I'm not using the PS pump or air pump but I am keeping the AC compressor. To do this, I'm making my own mounts. I have some ideas and a spare front cross member so the wheels are spinning on how to make it work. Danno74Z

Hansen, Like Lone said a very sweet score, however before you get your hopes up, I would do some cursory checking of the engine and tranny. I did not have the luxury of hearing my engine run when I purchased it, so I went on blind faith that it is a solid engine, time will tell. In your case, it sounds like the engine and tranny package is still in the Camaro. I would treat it like buying a used car and do your homework. Check the compression, do a leak down test, look at the oil and antifreeze, smell the oil, check for leaks – the basics. If you don’t have the time to do this, give a good mechanic a $100 for it. This could save you a lot of grief down the road. The mileage you stated is not excessive for an 8-year-old car. I probably will be stoned for saying this but most stock FI computer controlled engines meter fuel and control timing much more accurately then there carburetor brethren. Consequently, your LT1 if properly maintained even with +100K might not need any internal engine work. Naturally all bets are off if the basics were not done to the car over the years or it was really hammered. Good Luck. Danno74Z

Hi Tim, Thanks for all the information on the diff conversion. I found this site and I wanted to share it with the group. It's very applicable to your question above about the largest diameter rotor one can fit on their car given physical constraints. This is cool! It gives all the physical dimensions of all the rotors used on cars sold in Australia. Some cars offered/available down below are not available here in the States. But a vast majority (cars) is exported so this company produces replacement rotors. This catalog of replacement rotors lists all the pertinent information such as physical dimensions and whether it's for the front, rear, vented or solid. Now one can go to a wrecking yard with at least a clue on what rotor could possibly work on their project. One still has to go through the catalog but better then hit or miss at the yard. http://www.dba.com.au/home.htm Enjoy, Danno74Z

Tim, I haven't found Owen's site yet but I think I have it. I went to your site and I’m looking at the picture that shows both the R180 and the R230. The axles to the right that have the yellow lettering on them are the R230's. If I have this correct you are going to remove the cv end that has the splined axle shaft (yellow lettering on housing) and replace it with the 7 or 8 bolt end. Is this correct? You then need 2 pairs of axles to make the one bolt on set. Is this correct? Then make an adaptor to the companion flange and your set. On the overall axle length are you ok with the Q45's? The Z is such a narrow car - just asking Danno74Z

Tim, I guess I'm one of the lucky ones that have found (2, one is a spare) LSD R200 diffs. Just curious on the length of those CV axles and how do you plan on adapting them to work with the existing stub axle and the companion flange? This area has always been the Achilles heel on the old Z cars. Also, what is the final drive ratio in the R230. Thanks. Danno74z

Fantastic!!! I almost forgot, HAPPY upcoming THANKSGIVING to you Mike and your Family and to all my extended HYBRID family members. We "all" have a lot to be thankful for. Danno74Z

Awhile back I did some research on the Jag XJ6 IRS and this is what I found. Most are open differentials, which would necessitate finding a LSD unit for it. The gearing is not the best. Again, most come out of the luxury sedan with automatic transmissions and the gear ratios are 2.88, 3.01 or the rare 3.54. Lastly, the track for the XJ6 JAG is 59" so all the control arms and the axles would need to be shortened for the older Z track. Many other items would need altered but with enough $ anything is possible. I almost forgot. The half shafts are u-joints not CV joints so back to what we already have. IMO, to make the JAG IRS work is a huge amount of work with little if any gain over what most people already have.

jeromio Thanks for the info. very cool setup. Do you know who still sells the Scarab engine mount setup? I may try an experiment? Danno

jeromio, I asked the question about the Scarab setup for another reason (I'm using the LT1 engine). I'm just doing a little brainstorming that's all. Pete - Thanks for the info. Danno74Z

jeromio A quick question. With your new setup how are you going to fit the exhaust/headers on. I'm sure you have this detail sorted out but was just curious. Danno74Z

For anyone looking for a T56 here is one on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597321549&r=0&t=0 Danno74Z

Jim, I have the FSM for the 74 260 Z. I copied and enlarged the electrical diagram so it's readable without a magnifying glass. It's in an envelope ready to go and all I need is your address. I also sent you an email. Goodluck. I taped the 2 11"x17" together on a light table so all the wires line up. Danno74Z [ October 30, 2001: Message edited by: Danno74Z ]

Mike, Thank you for all the effort on getting the control arms designed and built. Only a few people here know the challenge it has been. If I asked the wrong question (my post above) about the arms - sorry no intent was meant. That's not me. Danno74Z

Hi Mike, WOW - The blue looks sharp under there. I saw the factory control arm picture. Do you have a picture with your new control arm in place on your car? Naturally in blue . Danno74Z

If I'm not mistaken Mike/SCCA mentioned he would be out of the USA/Canada for 3 weeks racing. He has been gone for about one week now. Danno74Z