Danno74Z

"I did some searching on HybridZ for what to use for radiator hoses with an LT1 and JTR radiator and found this: Top hose (driver's side): Gates hose # 21557 Bottom hose (pass. side): top is Gates hose # 20065, bottom is Gates hose #21353" Deja, Can you go back through this list on the hoses for the LT1? TH driver's side: #21557 This is clear. BH pass side: ? What number is this one? top: #20065 What hose is this for? Is this an alternate for #21557? bottom: #21353 What hose is this for?

deja, It sounds like there just isn't room down there to mount the alt low per Dan's reply. Probably not worth your time and effort to get a measurement. Now if someone could come up with an alt. bracket that cleared the frame rail and put it above it then we may have something. Danno74Z

Deja & mattster03, Perhaps I spoke out of line on the new alternator location hitting the frame rail. One can't be sure until one tries it out. I just looked at the first picture with the yellow alt. bracket and what other's have tried over the years and just assumed it would not fit. Deja, could you measure how close your small red pulley (the one you got from Bower's as an A/C delete pulley) is from the frame rail. If one used a smaller alternator it might fit but there is so little room down there it will be real tough either way. I bring this up as only a suggestion. If it is real close to working one might try notching the frame rail just a little, just remember the Datsun frame rail HAS to be very strong (and remain so). Datsun74Z

Nice product but your low mount alternator kit for the LT1 engine will not work in the Z car. From the pictures it appears you delete the AC compressor and relocate the alt. to this position. No room and guaranteed to hit the frame rail. Danno74Z

Rockauto.com The link below to the bearings should work. The second one below is for the R200. Danno74Z http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1209260,parttype,2240,partGroup,17 1978 NISSAN 280Z 2.8L 2753cc L6 MFI (H) [L28E] : Drivetrain : Axle Differential Bearing Item Price Core Total BCA Part # 30208 {Taper Bearing Assembly / Cone Length=0.7087" Bore=1.5748" Outer Diameter=3.1496" Width=0.7776" Cup Length=0.6299" Cone Radius=0.08" Cup Radius=0.08"} Rear Axle; Nissan R180; (Qty 2) $22.79 $0.00 $22.79 BCA Part # 30209C {Taper Bearing Assembly / Cone Length=0.748" Bore=1.7717" Outer Diameter=3.3465" Width=0.8169" Cup Length=0.6299" Cone Radius=0.0787" Cup Radius=0.0787"} Rear Axle; Nissan R200; (Qty 2) $38.79 $0.00 $38.79 Also Blackdragonauto.com has them on page 98 of the latest cat. for $42.95 each. These are probably Nissan replacement bearings but I would call 1-888-789-3746 to verify. Prehaps another group purchase

Deja, Thought about doing this with my wires when the time comes. Danno74Z http://www.lt1engine.com/techaids/otcvwires.html

jmortensen 7. Keep left and right side carrier shims straight (I zip tied one side together, there were only 3 in my diff) I'm assuming you had 3 shims on the left side and 3 on the right? Is that correct or 1 and 2? By chance did you measure the original shims? You mentioned the shims could be ordered through Nissan - is that a fact? Thanks, Danno74Z

No Problem - I did not see that post, sorry. Danno74Z

I know there has been A LOT of excitement over this and you’re probably inundated with PM's but are you going to build more mounts? I sent you a PM a couple of days ago and haven't heard back. Thanks for all the effort! Danno74Z

I know there has been A LOT of excitement over this and you’re probably inundated with PM's but are you going to build more mounts? I sent you a PM a couple of days ago and haven't heard back. Thanks for all the effort! Danno74Z

Greg, Wiring the 383 would be much easier no doubt. Just follow the JTR book and you can't go wrong. I just don't have the time to do my own harness (LT1) so I sent it away to jeff at PCMamerica.com and should be getting it back next week. The T56 that you are going to use on the 383 might be a different story. I believe you need a special bellhousing to mate it up to the 383 block as the input shaft on the t56 is different from the T5. It is not just a bolt on. Production VS aftermarket T56 Danno74Z

Piston, Nice pictures. What type of block hugger headers do you have? Danno74z

Roost, I PM you last night. I need 2 also. THANKS Danno74Z

Thanks to all the folks who have responded! Hopefully others will list their LT1 projects. This is pretty cool! So Far We Have: rontyler VRJoe love-my-V8-280Z jbc3 Top Fuel ZX dat240zg deja - YOU wheelman Bartman Danno74Z - ME 80LT1 Z-8 Danno74Z

Thanks Guy and Z-8 for the great write-ups. Come on you other LT1 guys! You can be as brief or as detailed as you want to get in your LT1 conversions. There must be at least 30 LT1 Z conversions on this board. Thanks, Danno74Z

I was curious on how many HybridZ Members put the LT1 engine into their Z's. Any LT1 vintage. Please include all upgrades/modifications if any to the engine and horsepower ratings if known. 1/4 mile times if known really anything you want to mention. If you have pictures in an album please mention that too. This should be fun! Just looking at LT1 GenII conversions only - You LS1 guys start your own Thread THANKS!!!!! Danno74Z

Below are two items I found on ebay that says it all. jbk240z may be right about the boat anchor idea, but since I live in CO, nobody has a boat large enough that needs an anchor that big. Danno74Z http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/78-Nissan-Datsun-280z-Engine-Transmission-runs-strong_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ011QQitemZ320087108773QQrdZ1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-SU-Carburetor-for-L24-L26-L28-engines-carb_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ016QQitemZ260092097447QQrdZ1

Sweetride2go, Like Wheelman, I thought about eliminating the Opti years ago - very expensive and probably not really worth the effort and expense. One could remove the Opti and put a cover (GM use to make this) over where it was. GM also made a 4-barrel intake manifold to replace the fuel injection one. Very similar to what GMHP is doing today with the LX series engine for guys who don’t want a fuel injected engine. Anyway, there is a company http://www.lt1intake.com/services.htm that will drill a hole in your existing LT1 manifold to except a standard distributor like was used in prior years < 1995. Pretty cool. Instead of using a standard distributor, I thought about using a dual sync distributor that provides BOTH a cam and crankshaft position signal. Once you have both signals you can use a FAST computer system to control the engine – Ignition, sequential fuel injection and lots of other features that are built into the computer system. Total control over the engine but to do this required about $2k. Just thought this would be a fun project to try. Danno74Z

It has always amazed me how a simple question can turn into a debate. SU vs. Weber's who gives a rats .... Anyway for the record, I have had both and I could not tell much of a performance difference between the two. Both were temperamental and both required constant adjustment to all the linkages -you can have them both. I have to say both were night and day better then the original junk system that came with the 260Z. Thanks for all the input. Danno74Z

deja, Wow those are great shots (you know how to use a camera) - thanks again for doing this. I was hallucinating there is plenty of room down there for the balancer. A little off the subject but I will be going with either the Bailey or Delteq Opti fix. I have got to get rid of the spark plug wires from down there. They even make a cap/cover that gets rid of the rotor from inside the OPTI. All you're left with is the optical portion of the distributor. http://www.delteq.com/

I have the Dual Weber's also and when I purchased them about 10 years ago they were around $700. Perhaps I might take them off and try selling them and the manifold by themselves. I will never use this engine again and since my car is a 260Z it has no real value as a collector car. I hate to just throw the engine away. There must be at least $25 worth of aluminum in the cylinder head alone! My wife would kill me if I pulled the engine and tranny and kept it in the driveway or as a decorative lawn element. Danno74Z