Danno74Z

HotRod Mag: "The General Motors small-block Gen III LS1 V-8 has been around since 1997, but many enthusiasts are still learning about its great features". Article goes on to say: "As a final exclamation point on the design, this block turned out to be lighter, smaller, more rigid, and more usage-flexible than any other production small-block V-8 GM has ever built". I agree with Mike's assessment in that it is an advance engine with a lot of technology but it is still classified as a "small-block" by the general automotive world. Danno74Z

80LT1, McLeod Industries makes both an aluminum and steel flywheel for the LT1 with counterbalance weights. http://www.mcleodind.com/cgi-bin/fccgi.exe?w3exec=w3ezmenudriver&menuvalue=38&currmenuid=WMM&src1=/catalog_htm/2003cat.htm&w3hostname=MCLEOD If the link does not work go to page 18 in the cat. Danno74Z

80LT1 Here are a couple of emails I kept from Centerforce on this very subject. Dear Danno, Our sources and expertise have confirmed that the LT1 engine is an externally balanced engine. With that said, a replacement flywheel, ours or another, would have to have the factory counterbalance specification in order for the flywheel to be a bolt on part. The 700170 is a flywheel with a counterbalance which offsets or counteracts the engine's internal out-of-balance condition. A ZZ4 crate engine is also an externally balanced engine. The reference to having your LT1s internal rotating assembly balanced and thus needed a zero or neutral balanced flywheel was to provide awareness to you that if you did have or planned on having your LT1s internal rotating assembly zero balanced, our 700170 and 700160 would NOT be appropriate. Our 700170 and 700160 flywheels are designed as direct bolt in replacements for factory (OE) original equipment engines with factory balance specifications. Also, if you are using an aftermarket crankshaft, you may have to obtain a zero balanced flywheel depending on the balance characteristics of the crankshaft itself. If you have any more questions or need any more clarification, please feel free to give us a call. Thanks! Rick Mard Technical Representative Centerforce Clutches, A Div. of Midway Ind. 928/771-8422 x36 Dear Danno, Thank you for submitting your technical question with us. Unless you are having your LT1s rotating assembly rebalance, a counterbalanced flywheel with the OE (original equipment) specification will be necessary. The following combinations of flywheels and clutch assemblies should work: 153 Tooth w/ 10.5" Clutch 700170 Steel billet 153 tooth flywheel DF161675 10.5" Dual-Friction clutch w/ 26-spline 1-1/8" input shaft 168 Tooth w/ 11" Clutch 700160 Steel billet 168 tooth flywheel DF148552 11" Dual-Friction clutch w/ 26-spline 1-1/8" input shaft The flywheels are both .950" thick, measured from the friction surface to the crank flange surface. If you have any more questions we suggest calling us directly and speak with one of our technical representatives. Thanks for considering Centerforce!

240PLAYTOY, I was out of town for a few days and jut saw your reply. Wow, that is great you picked up the compressor relocation kit. I figured there would be more room then the 1/8" you mentioned from the driver's strut tower. Did you use the standard JTR engine mount system? Would like to see pics too of the mounted kit and your car. Danno74Z

Joe emailed me this information and for now it will have to do. Dan I can't tell you what the outside dimension is but I can tell you that the compressor pulley and the compressor itself is inboard on the driver's side further than the alternator is on the passenger side. I don't have one on an engine now but you could verify your clearance by comparing it to the alternator side from centerline. The belt clearance to itself is not an issue on this installation. It may appear close, but is not too close. Thanks for your interest! Joe

Here is Joe's reply on the closeness of the belt to itself. Dan, The belt does run close to the water pump, but does not touch it and is not a problem. Some water pumps might be cast slightly different and clearance here should be verified. Excess aluminum here could be filed down. Same for the belt at the power steering pump. There is virtually no vibration and we haven't seen any problems with the belt clearance. No adjustment is necessary. Just check the marks on the tensioner to monitor the belt condition. He said he will get me an overall dimension shortly. So far so good as this kit looks like it might work for folks who want to keep the AC. Danno74Z

Hi Bart, I don't have my LT1 engine in my car but I was looking at your V8Z (nice pictures)and it sure looks like it will fit. It appears that the compressor's new location is offset the same distance as the alternator. I will write to Joe Bower and see if he can send me a measurement from the outside edge of of the alternator to the outside edge of the compressor. Danno74Z

I recently saw this A/C relocation kit for the LT1 engine, passing on the information. http://www.bowersrodshop.com/info_pulley.htm Danno74Z

Thanks for the update on the Photo Album. I will go out to the garage and work on my Z. Don't want to be a pest but I did not see a notice about it - perhaps I did not look hard enough. If there is one I'm sorry Danno74Z

Ok I give up, where is the photo album section? Is it gone for good? Danno74Z

Steve, Thanks for the information on the bolts. I have over .75" thread engagement into the aluminum hat so that should not be an issue. I also drilled the bolt heads for safety wire which I will also do once I torque the bolts down. With the combination of a lock washer and the safety wire (which I know how to do) I wil be ok. Danno74Z

I have a rotor and custom aluminum hat setup for my front brakes. Does anybody know what the proper torque setting are for the 8 cap bolts that tighten into the aluminum hat (sometimes called a bell)? The bolts are 5/16" x 18 or 20 thread pitch? Because I'm going into aluminum the torque can't be too much but naturally I don't want any problems down the road. (Can't find anything at the Wilwood site) The bolts are 1" long. Yes, it does matter into what material you are tightening. Thanks, Danno74Z

Z-Gad, What type of differential do you have? Maybe I'm confussed. I asked about the R200 LSD that has a clutch pack in it NOT the viscous unit that you alluded to in your post. So not to confuse people, I'm only interested in the R200 LSD unit with the clutch pack and the HP IT can handle. If you do have the R200 LSD please write away - thanks for understanding!!!!! Danno74Z

Question for all you R200 LSD users. I know some HybridZ users are using the R200 LSD. Has anyone destroyed one yet? What problem have you had with it and what HP are you putting through it? What do you think is the upper limit on HP through it? Thanks, Danno74Z

Tim, Thanks for posting the information again. I have another question for you. Do you think it is possible to use the stock GM Master Cylinder in our Z's? I know the body of master cylinder has a flange with about a 20-degree slant to it and the end that attaches to the pedal I'm sure is different, but it should be possible to fix these issues. What are your thoughts on this? Danno74Z

Tim, Since we lost several days of posting, I did not get a chance to copy the information about your new method of attaching the slave cylinder on the T56. I also asked you about your clutch setup and then I was locked out of HybridZ and could not read your response. I believe it was in this forum and not the drivetrain. If you could go through your explanation again I (other members too) would really appreciate it. Danno74Z

Garrett, I can tell you from first hand experience that you should get the flywheel resurfaced. Beg, borrow, or rent a wrench to take it off. The clutch and flywheel mate and they ware together as a set. You may not see the wear pattern or grooves but the flywheel has runout from all the heat and usage over the years. Very similar to ones brakes and how they mate and break in together. What will happen if you don't resurface the flywheel is the first few hundred miles with the new clutch will seem fine then all of a sudden you will start to get clutch chatter as you let up on the pedal. You basically ruined the clutch and have to do the whole thing over. Like I said it happened to me so learn from my mistake! Danno74Z

Thanks all for the help. Today I received this information from Centerforce. Dear Danno, Our sources and expertise have confirmed that the LT1 engine is an externally balanced engine. With that said, a replacement flywheel, ours or another, would have to have the factory counterbalance specification in order for the flywheel to be a bolt on part. The 700170 is a flywheel with a counterbalance which offsets or counteracts the engine's internal out-of-balance condition. A ZZ4 crate engine is also an externally balanced engine. The reference to having your LT1s internal rotating assembly balanced and thus needed a zero or neutral balanced flywheel was to proide awareness to you that if you did have or planned on having your LT1s internal rotating assembly zero balanced, our 700170 and 700160 would NOT be appropriate. Our 700170 and 700160 flywheels are designed as direct bolt in replacements for factory (OE) original equipment engines with factory balance specifications. Also, if you are using an aftermarket crankshaft, you may have to obtain a zero balanced flywheel depending on the balance characteristics of the crankshaft itself. If you have any more questions or need any more clarification, please feel free to give us a call. Thanks! Rick Mard Technical Representative Centerforce Clutches, A Div. of Midway Ind. 928/771-8422 x36 rickm@centerforce.com Based on the above information I need a counterbalanced flywheel to do my conversion. Digging a little deeper into this I saw a picture of the CBF and on the back side is a place to add a weight. One side has a "A" and the other position is a "C". For the LT1 I need to put a 125.5 grams of CB weight at location "A" to properly balance the flywheel for the LT1 engine.

The stock rear spring is 4.40" in dia. and a coilover spring is 3.35" (call it 3.40") in dia. Measurements were made with a micrometer. Danno74Z

I'm getting conflicting answers to this question and perhaps grumpyvette or another engine expert can help answer. What type of flywheel can I use on a LT1 engine? Can I use a standard flywheel off an earlier model 350 engine with a one-piece rear main seal? Is this an internally or externally balanced engine and how should the new flywheel and pressure plate be balanced? I’m contemplating on going to a standard push type clutch and doing away with the pull version that I have now. Thanks, Danno74Z

I came across a very interesting article in Street Rod Builder Magazine (Feb 2004) and I wanted to pass it along. Without going into a ton of details here, the author of the article took a GM LS1 street rod crate engine and ran it on a dyno and the results were pretty amazing – 376 hp and 376 lb-ft of torque. The article said, “Credit the open exhaust and lack of accessories for some of the power, but we suspect the LS1 Camaro engine was still underrated by GM.†WOW. For all you LS1 guys I highly recommend picking up this magazine and reading the article. There is another very interesting article on how to build a custom exhaust system – very informative and tons of color pictures on how to do the work. Danno74Z

LT1 Experts, I'm moving along (very slowly) on my 1995 LT1/T56 install and I need some expert advice. I'm going to use the Weir bellhousing with my setup. I know a few members have used or will be using Weir's bellhousing with the T56 transmission and a standard 350-400 cu in. SBC engine. Here is my question. What flywheel and clutch can I use on my LT1 so it "acts" as a standard push type transmission setup. (Weir's product does not use a clutch fork but a hydraulic throwout bearing similar to the LS1 unit.) I called Bob Weir and mentioned what I wanted to do but he was not sure about the LT1 engine specifically. (Using his product with the T56 is not an issue.) If I'm not mistaken, isn’t the LT1 a standard 350 with a one-piece rear seal. If this correct, I should be able to use any 350-clutch/flywheel combinations for a one-piece rear main seal. Am I right in this assumption? Naturally, my other concern was about the balance of this setup, but this should not be an issue if the flywheel and clutch I purchase are balanced. Any help would be great!!!! Danno74Z

Mainchor, Thank you for the explanation and with the additions you made I'm sure it will be fine. I did not know the new front cross member was welded to the existing one - now I do! I like your design as I never been fond of the JTR arrangement. I know in your situation you had to design a new setup for the LS1 but even with my LT1 I might try something like this. You have a lot of control on how and where the engine sits in the engine compartment. Danno74Z

Guy, You are correct. The original OEM cross member is bolted to the frame rail. However, it is bolted at the bottom and the weight of the car rests on it. If you notice the original frame rails have no substantial weight on them. I'm not saying maichor's design won't work. I think his cross member design is awesome. I'm saying in my opinion the frame rails are not strong enough to handle "those" type of "new" stresses. This design may indeed work with a substantially beefed up frame rail. Danno74Z

Maichor, I was up at you web site and I have a question. I noticed you are using the frame rails to support most of the weight of the new LS1 engine. In the past I thought about doing this, but felt the rails were never designed for that type of engine stress. I can see them supporting the engine weight but a running engine's vibration and torque - I don't know. A typical install uses the front cross member to support the entire engine weight and generated stresses but with your design these stresses are going directly into the rails which are really not a typical frame. Below is a picture of your setup and I was wondering if you could explain it a little further. Thanks, Danno74Z