X64v

No. I was losing pressure at the rail, something the injectors cannot effect unless they can outflow the pump (my 400cc injectors can't).

Yep, so far so good, I haven't had a single issue with this set-up. I'll be driving out to LA this weekend, when I get back I'll post to let everyone know if it worked for the 8 hour drive.

FWIW I run the stock 3.364:1 R180 behind my 81-83 ZX N/A 5 speed mated to my L28et (7.3:1 SCR) at 12psi, and love it. I have no problem with torque for driving around town, and I love being at 2500rpms at 70mph on the freeway, still under 3k at 80mph. On boost I still have plenty of power for passing even in 5th gear.

The flywheel is the same size, but the pressure plate is smaller in diameter, giving the whole assembly less total inertia, all else being equal.

What he means is that there is basically no slipping involved in starting from a standstill. I drove a 240 at a track day with basically the same clutch (maybe the exact same clutch?). It's just a controlled drop. You give the engine the right amount of rpms and then basically drop the clutch, because it has very little ability to slip. Too little and you bog the engine, too much and you spin the tires, but get it right and it's not so bad at all. I can see it being no big deal once you get used to it. It's basically a little more extreme version of what I have to do to keep my 6 puck clutch from chattering anyways, let it grab just a tiny bit then let it all the way out quickly.

There's nothing wrong with the 225mm one as far as torque capacity, you don't need a 240mm to hold up.

Why not use a stock 280z/zx pump? I flow-tested my junkyard one, it did 33 gallons per hour at 38psig and 12.85v, which is enough for about 270rwhp on a turbo car. They're nice and quiet. If you're set on that pump, yes, it'll flow enough to support your HP goals.

Cygnus, that was me. Here's the thread, complete with the odd fix that ended up working for me: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145676

Roses are red Violets are blue Always flow H Always store U

That's not what he's asking. He wants to use two full packs (making 6 dual post coils, for a total of 12 posts) and ground one end of each. I would be worried about burning out the coils (if that's possible from the spark plug end) because now each coil only would have half the load on it. If they can handle that you shouldn't have a problem.

1 1/16". It's actually a 27mm but a 1 1/16" fits better (26.7mm). Get a Haynes manual for your car. It has most of what you need to know for basic maintenance.

Here's an in car video of mine, L28et, stock T3 turbo, 3" open with 6" radius mandrel bends (nothing tighter than 60*). It's not really as loud around town as the video makes it sound. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUmhNmQuZx4 I don't hit full boost more than maybe twice that whole video though, which is why you hear my BOV venting like mad most of the time.

Match the exterior. I think the gloss black will look best, and be easiest to clean. I wouldn't be surprised if dirt 'sticks' to the flat black more; happens on my flat black louvers/tail light panel. Agreed, finally someone who shares my viewpoint on this. I love the blue engine bay on my blue car.

I needed to get my wideband back in to tune for the change in fuel pressure. Instead of just taking 30 minutes to put it in like it was, I ended up spending the entire weekend redoing the Megasquirt wiring in the engine bay (it needed to be done anyways, and I had everything on hand). 12 circuit terminal block (McMaster, $3.98) mounted on the left-hand frame rail: Injector harness all nice and pretty: Pretty much finished: From left to right: 1-2 +12v; 3,4 injector ground pass-throughs; 5,6 IAT and CLT pass-throughs; 7-12 chassis ground. I should have gone with a terminal block years ago, when I first installed Megasquirt. It makes the wiring neat, secure, organized, and out-of-the-way.

Any of the Sportmax series (002 or 513) will get you a 16"x8" that fits (suspension wise, can't comment on brake clearance) for super cheap, and I think they look great (I have the black 513s in 15x8 personally). Here's a link to black 513s in 16x8. If you want a different color/style, they're all over eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16x8-XXR-BLACK-513-WHEELS-RIMS-XB-E30-AE86-SPORTMAX_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem330317673013QQitemZ330317673013QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Yeah, that seems to be the reason why this is working. The carter pump is of a different design (perhaps creates more suction head, perhaps is less prone to cavitation, or both), and in addition it doesn't have to put out much pressure on the other end. In this configuration, the Walbro is almost dead silent, far quieter than it ever ran. You can only hear it if you actually pop the hood, and even then it's faint. The Carter is audible for about the first 30 seconds or so, then fades away under the noise of the engine idling (even with the radio off).

Finally the updates I promised. Fixed the fuel problem I was having. I ended up using a Carter P4070 by the fuel tank as a lift pump, pushing fuel up to the Walbro 255lph in the engine bay. Also, I've had my new stereo and harness installed for a while. A word of caution in regards to the blue Aeroquip Push-Lock hose. It's wonderful for oil and water lines, but it doesn't hold up well at all to gasoline. It fades and cracks and gets kinda stiff; no leaks, but still no bueno. I called up the guys at Earl's Store #1, they said it's not a defect or a bad batch of hose, it just simply doesn't like street fuel. The bottom hose served as a fuel rail feed line for about 9 months carying 91 octane pump gas, the top hose is just as old but unused: Also made a video while testing my pumps just for fun, to see how the camera worked at night, how well it picked up sound, etc. Nothing amazing, just a spirited run through some out-of-the-way desert roads. I wasn't pushing the car at all, only driving at perhaps 5 or 6/10ths. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUmhNmQuZx4

I think I have it fixed for good. I now have a Carter P4070 fuel pump back by the tank acting as a lift pump, pushing fuel up to the Walbro 255lph in the engine bay. So far, so good, I've got about 90 minutes on this set-up with no issues. I guess considering the problem I had with the stock zx pump though, I won't know for sure 'til the MSA show when it'll be running for hours straight.

I'll definitely be there, like every year.

I did that to mine. No problem. I used it as a return for a long time, and now it's sealed off completely.

How is the computer going to pull timing under boost? I don't know how the stock zxt computer does it, but the way you have it hooked up I bet it'll just be running in the mid 30 degree range regardless of boost...no bueno.

Bo, how long is your feed line? Mine is ~4'. Turns out the 280zx pump hasn't totally fixed the problem either. 3/4 of the way from Tucson to San Diego it started acting up in a similar manner. Shut the car down for two minutes and restarted, made it the rest of the way. Here in SD it's been working fine.

I had one of those a while back, it crapped out on me within a few months. The guy at my local hot rod shop said the same thing, a lot of them have problems with cavitation, and that they need like a -8 or -10 feed line, even though the threads on the inlet are only 10mm. Weird that my first one would go for over a year on a 5/16" feed though, then decide to act up.

Swapped in the 280zx pump, now all is well. I wish I knew why the Walbro pumps simply decided to cavitate and die on me. For anyone who would like to know, I flow tested this zx pump: 33 gallons per hour at 38psig and 12.85v. That will support roughly 340 crank horsepower on a turbo car.