X64v

Haha sorry Yasin, I don't have any direct pics of it right now, just some artsy ones. I'm too embarrased of the ugly stock wheels, though they are paint-matched

Engine is back from the machine shop. I decided forged pistons really weren't worth the money at this point in time, the Nissan head gaskets are still working well as fuses, and my tuning is pretty much spot on. So, I grabbed a set of ITM 86.5mm turbo pistons new w/rings for cheap off eBay. The engine should get dropped back in this weekend, so I'll post up details/pics as it happens. For now: Mmmm, fresh machine work Polished crank/rod journals (mains and rods still std/std after 200k miles) The ARP forest, again

Finally some love for the W201. I'm obsessed with mine as much as I am with my 240:

There's an ('07, '08?) GT3RS I see parked at a local El Charro downtown quite often. Pure sex. I will have one one day. And I personally love the wing, I think it looks great.

This is almost exactly the route I'm trying to take with my Mech. E. degree. Congratulations man, I only hope I can achieve the same.

Engine bay, sans engine: Some more progress tonight, started ripping out the HVAC: About 17lbs of stuff just here: The heater core and air box + cables are on their way out soon.

Not if the center of the contact patch remains in the factory location.

The numerical timing number will be higher, but that's because it takes longer for the flame to get out from the non-projected plug, so the end result is the same. It's NOT a power increase. For the same amount of advance, the non-projected plugs will make LESS power.

You misread. P = Projected insulator. Some on this board have noted the difference between projected/non-projected insulators is about half a heat range (non-projected being colder I believe) and a few degrees of timing (non-projected being retarded).

That depends on from where you buy the clamps. On siliconeintakes.com, they have the listings correct (e.g. the "T-Bolt clamp for 2.5" silicone parts" fits perfectly on the silicone connectors with the 2.5" ID, for use with 2.5" IC piping).

Back at it. (Sorry for the over-exposed pics, forgot to change the exposure correction back to zero.) New work area: In place, on jack stands: Final engine bay pic, before some decent changes get made: Four hours and lots of dilly-dallying later: On the to-do list: Scrub engine bay clean Clean up factory engine bay harness Weld up antenna hole Remove crossmember, relocate LCA pickup points Figure out how to mount/use the VQ35 cam sensors I have as crank and/or cam sensors Spend more money than I should Break down motor, send various parts to machine shop/ceramic coating/wherever Since I now have a cushy daily driver, the Z is going to be moving in a more raw direction than before, for use on nice days/autox/track only. FG dash, no HVAC, stiffer/more modified suspension, etc. I'd like to shed 100lbs and make some useful changes while I'm at it. I also doubt I'll paint it in the next 5+ years. I'll keep the bodywork straight, but who cares about paint when it's just your fast car?

Any Trance song ever. See: , .

Not at all, they handle wonderfully. A bit of body roll in hard corners but it really sticks, and doesn't push. Not as quick as my 240 but that's to be expected. For a 2.6L sohc inline 6 it's got decent power/torque though. It may get the DOHC 3.2L out of the 300E sometime in the future.

My new daily. Not a 3 series, but its brother from another mother:

Evan - Thanks for the offer, but the whole reason I want this on original cassette is that it was recorded in lo-fi (a 'bad dub' as Slug calls it; as if one were recording it off the radio in the 80s). This shows on the CD, but I want to see how it was meant to sound on the cassette (plus yes, I'd like the case). For the time being, I'll probably just make my own mix tape of all his lo-fi songs until I can find the original. If I can find a friend with a tape deck, that is. I don't even have one anymore.

Already have the CD. I've also got it on my iPod which I play in my car anyways. I just really want the original tape to keep in the ridiculous 6 cassette storage area in the dash of my 190E. Plus this is like a fun scavenger hunt with only one item. And I'm too young for mix tapes, I made those girls mix CDs.

I'm looking for the album Overcast! by Atmosphere, on cassette tape (released 1997). It's definitely been 'out of print' for the better part of a decade, and it's not like there were very many printed in the first place. I seriously doubt any of you have this tape specifically, but I'm looking for help as to where to look. I've been trying all the indie music shops and used book stores in town, but how about some place online? Does anyone know of a website that deals in obsolete media like this? Amazon and eBay have been no help at all.

No power steering, stock sized steering wheel though. It's fine, changing wheel direction while stopped takes some effort but it's not a big deal.

15x8s wrapped in 225/50-15s in all pictures (two wearing Victoracers, one wearing ES100s)

With his punk rock girl in the passenger seat, I'm sure. Seriously, very nice find, super low miles for that price.

I stopped tuning a year ago, haha. Like evildky, once my AFRs were spot on, transitions were smooth, warmup settings worked well, etc., I quit messing with it. It's not stalled or died or had a tuning-related hickup in the year I've left it. Might as well be a factory ecu as far as smoothness and drivability is concerned. When I do make a change I have to tune for, I'm usually done tweaking in about 15 minutes, and then don't touch it agian.

Well isn't that just wonderful news. Saves me from having to find another block, as this one has only been deglazed once. As long as blowing the ringlands hasn't hurt the cylinder wall too much, all should be bueno.

Interesting insight into this thread for sure. I'm still driving on my bottom end when I absolutely have to (grocery store, etc.), it's just smoking at every stoplight. I just bought a daily driver, and as soon as I get it on the 26th, the motor will be coming out of the 240. I was planning on getting the 3.2L bottom end kit from Rebello with forged pistons and all, but that would mean a bigger turbo, manifold porting, etc. etc., and I really have no desire to blow that up. A junkyard block or something similar is looking pretty tasty for the price, especially considering I've got the tuning nailed for the 2753cc bottom end, and that would leave me lots of cash left for things like ceramic coating, a knocksense module, and maybe even books next semester. Can a block be honed twice and still be used with stock-sized pistons?

My recent experience backs this up. I have 5/6 bypassed, but after my distributor came loose under boost advancing the timing many degrees, #3 was the only one to have ping bad enough to blow the ring lands on the stock turbo pistons. Tony, do you think you could provide a part number for the aluminum Amot T-Stat you think will work well? I'm seriously considering tapping all of the chambers for this when I tear down my motor in a few weeks.

Well, I can never make a decision without changing my mind a few times, and this is no exception. After talking to some people and getting a better idea of what the machine work is going to cost, I've decided to stay with my L28et. I'll be using 89mm forged pistons, running a knocksense module, and redoing my crank trigger set up. This way, there will be no more dizzy to come loose, no pinging undetected by the knock sensor, and any pinging that does occur won't destroy my ring lands. I'll be changing lots of other stuff while I'm at it, ceramic coating a few things, porting a few other things, etc. I'll post up lots of pictures as I start work on it.