X64v

Here's another place: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=&dept=Metric And the stock outlet is actually 5/16" (or very close to it, I'd bet both in/out on the stock pump are metric sizes as well).

Yes. But what you're actually looking for is consistency in the numbers, not the numbers themselves.

Alright, after talking to some people, crunching some numbers, and thinking things through, I've decided to go LSx/T56. It's always been my dream swap, and I think I'm in just the right situation to make it happen. I'll be buying a second car ('89-'92 Mercedes-Benz 190e 2.6) as a daily driver in July; as soon as I do, I will be parting out everything engine-related except the radiator, Megasquirt, and wideband. If any of you want to 'reserve' any of my engine parts you see in this thread, feel free to PM me and you can have first chance at it when I tear things down in July. The intercooler/piping/BOV/exhaust/fuel rail are spoken for, the rest is fair game. Unless someone wants the entire long block, I'll be completely parting out the motor as well, so reserving specific pieces (head studs, e.g.) is fine. What's more interesting is I will not be using the LSx electronics; I've been so happy with my Megasquirt set-up and my tuning abilities that I'm going to use it on the new motor. I'll be re-reading Moby's LSx/MS write-up and doing my own research to figure out how I'd like to tackle that. I'm fine with batch fire injection and wasted-spark ignition, and I really enjoy tinkering with Megasquirt, so this will be fun. Sorry for two picture-less posts in a row. This thread may go dark for a couple of weeks, but then I'll have lots to post about once I start buying/selling parts and getting things ready.

I have some not-so-great news. As lots of you know, I blew a head gasket big time when my dizzy came loose at 12psi (see thread here). The only change I've had since then is that the motor has been blowing a little oil out the valve cover, where it never did before. It's been getting worse so I ran a compression test today. The results: 1-130 2-130 3-80 4-130 5-125 6-130 So #3 is dead. This makes sense looking back at the head gasket, where #3 is the only cylinder where the gasket didn't blow, thereby subjecting it to the full force of detonation at 35+ degrees of timing at 12psi boost and 190 degree intake temps. This really sucks because the compression numbers of the other holes are damn near perfect. Now I have a huge decision to make. If I stay with the L28, I can either go with forged pistons so this doesn't happen again and keep building this turbo motor, or ditch the turbo and build a hot street 3.0L N/A L28 (which even in its fastest trim will always be slower than what I have now, but probably much more reliable). If I do a motor swap, I have a range of options, but all have their problems: I have a free complete VQ45 in good running condition, but an adapter plate to run a manual tranny is $$$$. I'd most like a VQ35, but I don't have the fab tools or 220v mig needed to modify the crossmember or build my own engine/tranny mounts. I'd also like an LS1 (which is now practically a bolt-in), but the cost is pretty prohibitive. I'm very averse to a traditional iron block SBC because of the weight and low powerband/redline. So as you all can see, I'm in a bit of a pickle here. My budget really doesn't top $3k for a complete motor swap, and I'm definitely not putting that much into an L motor (more like $1500 or so). For any option but keeping the turbo, I'll be able to sell the turbo, intercooler set up, and a few other things to make some money back. If you have any suggestions or think I'm overlooking something, feel free to PM me. Otherwise I'll be thinking this over very well the next couple of days/weeks.

I'm bring this thread back a year later After reading through everything, I'm going to do a yarn test with the hood popped to the safety latch to see where air is flowing in/out. There will be indicators every few inches all the way up the fender where it meets the hood, and half way along the front of the cowl. I'll take video (magnetic camera mount on the fender or roof) of this and get it posted sometime within a week or so. This should show if inspection lid vents are effective, as well as show how far up/down the hood any other vents need to be.

Tony, those are very interesting. I've been mulling this over, trying to figure out how to properly size the lines or restrict the flow above the cooler cylinders to keep them all at the same temperature (i.e. if all cylinders have the same size lines, won't #1 still run cooler than #6? etc.). What if one used 6 of the smallest sized of these valves to control flow from each cylinder separately? This way each chamber would be regulated to the same water temp, and all the water exiting would just run directly to the radiator, no 'main' T-Stat needed. Your thoughts?

Can you elaborate Tony? Searching "Amot Truck Thermostat" both here on hybrid and in Google didn't come up with much.

The newer one is on the car now. I figured if they were both good, I might as well sell the older one and keep the newer one, since they were both technically used. The person to whom I sold the old one has not said anything so I'd assume it kept working fine.

Fuel only would mean you're triggering off coil negative, correct? If so, your MS wiring will not change at all. If I've misunderstood, and you're running MS off the inner workings of the dizzy, then the red wire inside the dizzy goes to the shielded ignition wire, the green wire attaches to the outer shielding.

Hmm, I haven't noticed any change in warm-up time or operating temp at all. But then again, the car runs against the 160 degree T-Stat I have all the time except in heavy traffic when it's 100+ out. Perhaps it's because I have both 5 and 6 running back into the water pump, uncooled. John - Now that I know that doing just 5/6 seems to work, I plan on eliminating the stock T-Stat housing and running them all into some sort of runner or something, as Tony D, et al. have talked about elsewhere. Also, FWIW, I've blown a head gasket at number 4 without blowing 5 or 6, so I'd guess doing all three rear cylinders would be worth it.

This modification isn't intended to help the car run any cooler, in traffic or otherwise. The same amount of heat is still being put in the water, same amount still being put into the air by the radiator. This is only to keep chambers 5 and 6 from developing hot spots under extended load conditions. As a follow up on my engine, after almost a year now of running these bypass lines (9,000 miles on them), the main difference I've noticed is I no longer have a wide range of light ping before blowing a gasket. Before these lines, there was a lot of spark timing range where it would induce light ping but not blow the gasket. Now, it seems as if I go from no ping straight to a loud knock and blow the gasket. I would attribute this to bringing the 'ping threshold' on 5/6 closer to the rest of the cylinders, so either none are pinging, or most are.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SDC02A/20-1130 They've had them for years. I've used them for 4 years and they're still like new.

Get the vacuum signal from anywhere in the manifold (anywhere after the throttle body). If you can run a filter on it (or plumb it recirculating) then adjust it so it's a bit open at idle. If not, adjust it so it just stays closed at idle/cruise. Edit: You don't say what ECU you're running. If it's anything that has an AFM or MAF, you need to plumb the vented air back in before the turbo (but after the AFM/MAF) so the ECU knows how much air the engine is actually using.

Thermodynamically it's impossible for the air conditioner to cool the room in that configuration. If it were perfect (100% effecient), then it would put the same amount of heat back into the air as it was pulling out of the air. Since it is not 100% efficient, it will actually heat the room. Think of it like an energy pump. When installed in a window, it takes energy (in the form of heat) out of the air in your room, and dumps it into the air outside. Sitting on your table, it's taking heat from the air it draws in on one side, and dumping it back into air in the same room. Then when you add in the inefficiencies (such as friction inside the motor, creating more heat), the net energy (heat) gain in the room is positive. It won't lock up/die, but the point is moot.

A few months ago, I snagged a used Dezod same-sided intercooler for $40 plus shipping, basically a freakin steal. This weekend I finally got around to installing it (a week after I show the car at MSA, but oh well). All the blue silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps are from Silicone Intakes. Good quality stuff, fits very well, and pretty much the best prices I've ever seen. The piping is 2.25" aluminized steel exhaust tubing covered in VHT wrinkle paint. With a combination of silicone bends and mandrel bends, I didn't have to make a single cut in the core support: (Ignore the vacuum line and temporary coil mounting, with finals week here I haven't had time to do them properly) With my 1G DSM BOV set up recirculating, it's now almost totally silent. This means no more BOV wars with the WRXs around campus, but on the freeway it's much nicer not having to listen to the thing venting like mad under mid throttle acceleration, and I don't have to worry about a separate filter for it. I'm very happy with the set up so far, the thing pulls much harder than it did before (after re-tuning, obviously).

KTM has it right (per the '73 FSM anyways)

The feed line I'm currently using is ~4ft. The feed line I was using when it started acting up was about 1 foot, using the stock tank pick up. And yeah, I agree, the pump itself wasn't the problem. Otherwise the 280zx pump would have worked, or simply replacing the Walbro would have worked. But I don't have the slightest clue what did change when it started doing this.

Mine was located in the same place as yours with right about the same feed setup, and worked great for 14 months. It only started acting up after coming back from the body shop. To this day I don't know why.

Yeah there was a lock washer on the one that came loose. Obviously it wasn't locking anymore. But I hadn't touched that bolt in well over a year.

Nope, mine too. My '73 was SoCal only straight from the boat 'til 1997 (when I moved it to AZ) and both floor pans have holes the size of my fist. But it sat for 16 years so that may be why.

Butterflies only open one way.

One could run a surge tank, sure. My fuel tank is sump'd so I really didn't see a need for one, I have one directly plumbed into the other. The Walbro really seems to like getting 5psi of pressure to its feed fitting, and all the fuel is flowing fast enough that the Carter is happily flowing away even at max pressure. It's no where close to the same situation as deadheading the Carter with a carb setup (which one can do with a Carter). If I eventually get the car fast enough and cornering hard enough, I may run a surge tank to compliment the sump in combating fuel starvation, but for now it's a non issue.

Blew in six places. Dizzy hold down bolt came loose on the highway and advanced the timing at least 10 degrees. Luckily this gasket acted as a safety fuse; there were no other casualties. Changed the gasket and proceeded to drive to MSA the same day. Some of you got to see it sitting on my car at the show.

I had a great time. For once the weather wasn't so hot. I agree with Yasin, the new location is great, much better than in front of the store. It was pretty cool to finally get to see Jeff P's car for the first time, Aziza's car now that the LS1 is in, have a chat with Bo about intercooler piping and meth injection, etc. I was glad my car got a little more attention this year since my engine bay is pretty decent now. I think quite a few people got a kick out of the head gasket on my cowl panel blown in 6 places as well.

No problems. The helper pump was the fix.