X64v
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Posts posted by X64v
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New stuff:
- Alpine iDA-X200 (DMR, no CD player)
- Schroth Rallye Cross ASM 4-point harness (DoT legal, also won't break your knees like a 5-point without the submarine belt will)
- New 7/8" master cylinder (240Z size. I'm sticking with stock calipers up front so I don't need a ZX master)
- SS braided line and a few -6 fittings for the new fuel tank plumbing
Too bad the car is still in the body shop. Completion is estimated at early next week.
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Some work (mostly on the exhaust side) balancing flow, bumping the compression ratio to 12 to 1, and .500 lift 300+ duration cam will get you an honest 240 horsepower - still on SUs.
Is that rear wheel or flywheel? Just curious.
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...why not just consider a motor swap or a turbo?
That's what I was just thinking. Turbo is the way to go for streetable power on an L6 IMO. I'm at about 240whp (rough estimate) with more than enough torque off boost to feel just fine around town, even at 7.3:1 SCR. And I certainly have less than $1500 in my entire motor, including the engine rebuild, EMS, turbo, etc etc.
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All done. After I stripped off 36 years of road grime, the original paint was in pretty good shape underneath. Still I had to spray everything to make it even.
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Your questions answer themselves with a bit of a tutorial on how fuel flow and fuel systems actually work.
Fuel pumps don't 'make' a certain pressure. The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is what opposes fuel flow (working against the fuel pump) to pressurize the fuel. The more the FPR resists the flow of fuel through it, the higher the pressure. If a fuel pump is 'rated' for, say, 125psi, it means the maximum pressure at which the FPR can be set is 125psi, else the pump will be damaged, or its internal bypass will let off pressure.
You don't choose a pump based on a flow rate to 'match' your engine or injectors, you want the pump to out-flow the engine's greatest needs. As long as the return line is large enough to return all the unused fuel without a pressure increase (on your ZX, it definitely is), then tons of unused flow doesn't hurt anything (besides maybe heating up the fuel in your tank faster, as Tony D has written about thoroughly).
The brake specific fuel consumption for a turbo motor can be as high as .7lb/(hp*hr). This means that your engine may use up to .7 pounds of fuel per hour per every horsepower it makes. I'm assuming you mean 300 wheel hp, which is 350 crank hp at 15% driveline loss. So, 350hp times .7lb/(hp*hr) is 245lb/hr, or about 41 gallons per hour. This means you're looking for a pump that can flow at least 41 gph to suit your horsepower goal. More than that is fine, though it may come at the cost of a noisier pump (not always), or a more expensive pump (again, not always). As a suggestion, the Walbro 255lph pump will flow 64 lb/hr, more than enough. Plus they can be had for cheap and are decently quiet and reliable; they seem to be the pump of choice around here (I love mine).
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More progress on the tank and the car. First, pics of the car from last Thursday:
Basically it's looking great. The rear floor is perfectly flat again, and the spare tire well is perfectly round again. You can't even see creases, they're just back to the way they were. It'll hopefully be done by the end of this week or so.
Here's where I put the sump. I drilled two 1" holes, one on either side of the internal baffle. At the bottom you can see the small vent hole at what will be the highest point of the enclosed area; I thought it'd be a good idea to vent the trapped air without letting much fuel out. I put the drain plug back in before I welded the sump on.
The sump, fully welded, leak tested, then covered with JB Weld to smooth out my ugly welds and contain any leaks that did not show up in the leak test:
I'll smooth out the fitting welds before painting as well. A whole bunch of goodies came today (all the AN fittings I need, new tail light seals, new master cylinder, etc etc) so when I finish the tank tomorrow I'll drop it and the tail light seals by the body shop.
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As far as I know there are three different speedo housings.
The black steel one you have is meant for the 4 speeds and all automatics.
The 81-83 5 speed transmissions have their retainer 180 degrees opposite of the 4 speeds and automatics, so their aluminum housings have their slots cut on the opposite side. There are two aluminum housings as far as I know, with the slots cut just a light bit off from each other. One is for the smaller gears, one for the bigger gears. I've held two side-by-side to confirm this.
I can't say whether the early 5 speed transmissions use the steel or aluminum housings.
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I believe over 80% duty cycle they have a tendancy to not open/close properly, they end up floating like valves.
From http://www.hondata.com/techduty.html:
...it is not recommended to exceed 80% duty cycle with replacement injectors. Otherwise you will run the risk of the injector not being able to open and close quickly enough, which causes the injector to float half open. This will lean the mixture out, which is not going to [be] healthy for an engine at high revs and under full load. -
On the v3.0 boards, it goes between IGBTIN and the top of R26 for both MSI and MSII. You'll need to use it in the same place in the wiring, but I don't know which jumper pads are to be used on the v3.57 boards, someone else will have to chime in.
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Haha, I just found out today that "athletic supporter" is a Grease reference. Oops.
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Finally, the Z is in the body shop getting the rear end fixed. Here's a crappy cell phone pic of when I saw it yesterday:
While it's in the shop with the fuel tank out, I figured I'd bring the tank home and add a sump to fix the fuel starvation issue common in the S30 gas tanks. I got the idea for my design from this post. First I cleaned off the tank and took some measurements, then started with the design on a 12"x24" sheet of 16 gauge.
Then I cut it out. A cut-off wheel in a small angle grinder made short work of it.
The hard part was bending it up, because I have no vice, no work bench, pretty much no metal-shaping tools of any kind. I think it came out nice and decently straight, considering the tools I had to work with:
It will add 1.5 liters to the tank, giving it a new capacity of 61.5 liters (16.25 US Gallons). I should get time to weld it to the tank Friday. I drew up the dimensions real quick in Autocad for anyone who wants to copy it. All dimensions are in inches.
(I wasn't sure what the correct line style for a bend/fold line was, so I used a phantom line. If anyone knows the correct line style for this in an engineering drawing, PM me.)
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Mine was my dad's car. He bought it (a '73) back in '79 or '80, drove it until '89, then it was parked. I grew up with it on jack stands in the back yard, always playing racecar driver in it, pretending to shift and steer. Once I was old enough I got it running again on my own, so my dad gave it to me. I've put 40k miles on it in 3.5 years (I just turned 20).
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I just helped a friend put these (the high/low ones for $88) in his '89 Mercedes 190E tonight. They're crisp and clear and super bright, with a sharp cut off (not as good as with projectors, but definitely good enough not to bother other drivers). He is having a problem with one of the bulbs flickering a little bit though, so I guess we'll see how good their customer support is.
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I'm 20 but voted in the 20-25 catagory. I figure in a year it'll still be accurate.
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There are no smog laws the car is a 71.
Yes, there are. You're not required to get it checked but you are legally required to retain all OEM emissions equipment.
I'm not saying you should/shouldn't keep it on. I'm just saying it will not hurt performance, but is technically illegal. Try digging around a bit here, it's been covered extensively.
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If anyone has any feedback on that Speed 2 seat in the original post, I'd like to hear about it as well. I've had an eye on that seat for a while now.
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Since your heater outlet is blocked off anyway, why don't you take a cue from MONZTER:
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Nope. Your smog laws say otherwise though.
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AN flares are 37 degree. 45 is for household fittings and such.
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Do you guys think he might need a Bosch 124 or other ignition module to fire the coil?
Nope, a BIP373 is fully capable of running the 240z coil.
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1. MS doesn't use airflow sensors, just an rpm signal and manifold pressure (called speed-density). ITBs are generally no problem, usually you just build a sort of vacuum rail to get a good pressure signal.
2. There are so many maps available here you could first fire the car Sunday afternoon and drive it to school/work Monday morning, assuming you didn't have many mechanical/wiring issues. Even when I first switched mine 2.5 years ago I found one that was completely drivable.
3. Probably over half. 99 percent of the turbo guys for sure (I saw one where he just locked the timing at 20 degrees).
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When I pulled up your .msq, your dwell settings came up at 25.5ms for both Max Dwell Duration and Max Spark Duration. All the rest of the tables and settings came up normal so I'm pretty sure it loaded correctly. If these are the values you have entered in, they're way too big. Dwell should be about 3.0ms-3.5ms, and spark duration should be .5ms to 1ms.
Edit: I pulled up one of my old .msq files, I successfully used 3.4ms dwell and .5ms discharge time with a 240z coil. They also worked well for my 280zx coil and still work well for my blaster ss coil.
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I was thinking about this on my walk to work, maybe you could approximate it by taking the integral of the cam lift function, ie, the average area under the curve, ie, root mean square. This might at least get a somewhat approximate measure of how open the valves are if you consider them not moving.
I was thinking this sounded like at least a closer approximation. Though the dynamic model would be much better, even without shockwave effects, because the 'average' setting wouldn't show you any problems that might arise when the valve lift perhaps passes 'x' amount of lift.
+1 on the sticky.
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Are you not getting any spark out of the coil itself, or no spark out of the plug wire? If none out of the plug wire, your trigger angle could be far enough off to spark when the rotor isn't pointing at one of the terminals in the dizzy cap. My other thought was perhaps your dwell settings are way out of wack, but I'll check that when you post your .msq.
Oiling System Testing
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Amazing rig. If you close your eyes you could swear that was actually on the 'ring. You don't really think much about what the oil in the engine is doing until you see the angles at which that motor was getting tilted..
I wonder how many 'laps' they put on that motor.