m1ghtymaxXx

Rule of thumb is to go from furthest to closest to the M/C, since the lines run along side the passenger side, the sequence is as mentioned above.

Not to mention huge savings. I got my diff carrier bearings directly from SKF (albeit through a friend who's employer has a commercial account with them) and they were 12 bucks a pop and dirt cheap priority shipping, vs 80 bucks/ea IIRC through an online autoparts vendor.

Gotcha, the problem seems to be the inability to apply the weights near the outside edge, at least not without having them close to the hub. I've never balanced a wheel, but I can only guess the guy balancing them might need to get creative and factor up the weight if he's putting weights towards the outside of the wheel.

I couldn't bare to put hammer on weights on the outside of aftermarket wheels

So I've been running these in the 15x9 et flavour with 5/16" front spacers and 225/50R15 Falken Ziex 912s. They came with the tires mounted and balanced, though the balance was a bit off on arrival. Before a long road trip I had a friend re-balance them. They ended up coming out much worse, which he attributed to the fact that the inside of the wheel is dish shaped, meaning weights set towards the outside end up closer to the hub (presumably increasing the weight by a certain factor should fix this?). I had them balanced for a 3rd time yesterday and it's still terrible. Has anyone else had similar issues? I would guess Aleica's are prone to the same thing.

The glass is definitely glass, some bigger chunks look to have corners as though it was from a bottle or jar. Well who knows how that got there, but maybe it's responsible for the crunch I was hearing when turning the wheel. The copper horn contact looks fine, though I could stand to grease the contact wheel. Anyways last night I got impatient and wired in a start button. I used a relay so that it will only fire with with the key in ACC, and the button is actually a momentary toggle switch with a guard mounted in a knockout int the center console. I gave it a test fire before soldering and it worked perfect, but I must have melted something in the switch when I soldered it since it behaved like an on/off switch after but wouldn't make contact. Should be good to go once I replace the switch, and maybe I'll get the the ignition cylinder rebuilt this winter.

Today I came out of a work at lunch and found my I couldn't turn my key to the "start" position in my 1977 manual trans 280z. The key was stiff turning from Off to ACC, but wouldn't go into "start" at all. Luckily I was parked on a slight incline and had space to bump start the car in reverse. I'm currently at home on my lunch break with wheel off and the steering coulumn plastic off. Just some relelvent back story: I installed a grant steering wheel about 2 weeks ago. To make the horn work I had to bend the little copper contact, since the contact wheel on the aftermarket steering wheel sits abouty a 1/2" further back that the stock one. The passed few days there has been a slight "crunching" noise when turning the wheel, but mainly turning it in one direction (can't recall which direction), but it seemed to stock today en route to work I had previously attributed this to the reshaped horn contact, but never got around to taking it apart to verify. It is also important to note that there has never been any sign of a steering lock on this car, though I understand they were all equipped with one. Anyways I'm sitting here with the column plastic apart and there's a bunch of finely broken glass sitting in the bottom piece of the steering column cover. This wasn't there last time I had it apart 2 months ago, but I did find a mysterious chunk of broken glass in the footwell a few weeks ago. Could the glass be related to the steering wheel lock (or lack there of)?. I gave the cylinder a shot of WD40 and it made turning the key from Off to ACC much smoother, but it still won't go into start. If I can't figure it out it wouldn't be terribly difficult to wire in a start button (i did this on my 83 when the ignition cylinder wouldn't close the starter contact, though the key turned), but I'd prefer not to if it's an easy fix. Can anyone offer some insight?

Thanks for the tip! I suppose that's best done at the front too? I made some 1/8" steel bearing plates at the front since I'd heard the frame rails have a hard time tolerating the stress of a thicker bar.

This is to not compress the bushing as much? Or does the whole pivot need to move back? I would have thought the link would lean forward to prevent any binding due to the location of the pivot.

After 3 months/a couple hundred miles driving, the rear let say bar mount bushing has completely disintegrated. It does sit a few inches from the exhaust (stock location), so I presume that's the reason for failure. I contacted Suspension Techniques and they've agreed to send a replacement, but of course the next one will likely fail in short order. I was going to use some header wrap on the section of pipe near the bushing, but is there a bushing that might offer a bit more heat resistance? Surely I can't be the only one to experience this.

I've got a Dremel saw that takes a 1/4" shank, and it has a flexible shaft but it only take a 1/8" shank. The saw part on it's own is bulkier than a pneumatic grinder, but if you can get away with 1/8" bits, the flex shaft is a lifesaver. With the rotary saw attachment and circle cutting attachment, it's many useful tools in one. Biggest downside for die grinding is that the speed control is on a wheel, so you don't have the control you get with a pneumatic grinder.

Sounds like serviceability nightmare! Only advantage I could see is maybe with a LS swap from a Corvette using the torque tube and rear trans setup along with Corvette IRS. I would think that would take a some serious widening of the fenders among other things to work though.

No idea, just looked them up, here's a link: http://www.18racing.com/accessories.html (scroll down) Would be great if someone made a Z "medallion" to stick onto them. It would be nice have some on my Shakotans, in the mean time I slapped some black paint on the hub and grease cap.

Another good resource for suspensions setup: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets.html Written by an engineer, and probably beyond the scope of the average autocross, but some helpful info none the less.

Which trim, the big plastic/stainless (depending on year) piece on the B pillar, or the chrome trim around the windows?

And for those unfamiliar with degrees/minutes/seconds, that's 13.75 degrees and 16.25 degrees.

This is interesting. I'm wondering if this could work as an interim solution to my brake modulation issues at autocross (combination of 1" MC, stock brakes and grabby pads (HP+). Had another autocross event yesterday, and though I seemed to be better at brake modulation (not sure if I'm getting used to it, or the warmer weather got along better with the R-comps), but I'm still having a hard time not locking up the brakes after switching from unknown stock replacements to the Hawks. I don want to keep the Hawks for a bit more heat capacity.

I plan to do something like this with the stock seats, purely to keep me planted at autocross, no intention to ever run on the street.

Thanks a ton! You have mail

This thread is intriguing. DIY casting isn't something I've ever really considering, but it looks pretty cool. Looking forward to updates.

Is there any reason the ITB version couldn't be used with boost? And would the single throttle version be cheaper? Best of luck with the prototype, can't wait to see what you come up with and how the ITB's are incorporated.

I would have thought the 10 or 12 blade relay I'm referring to is pretty specific to the car. Unfortunately I live on an island where the chances of a Z popping up at the junkyard are pretty much 0. So far the "give it a smack and reinstall" fix has worked, of course it's probably bound to stick again, but I figure that's when splurge for the new one, unless I can find a cheaper source.

Sounds interesting, will this be suitable for turbo applications?

Nice ride! I prefer the 2+2 look on S130's anyways.

double post