m1ghtymaxXx

Good to know! I know the 280Z struts have a larger outer diameter, but I wasn't sure how the inner diamter differs, and how it relates to strut cartridge fitting. If the same diameter strut cartridge is used in the two different diameter housings, then I presume the gland nut is responsible for centering the cartridge in the strut housing at the top? Does that mean the bottom spacer takes up the difference in diameters at the bottom, as well as the difference in length. Any chance you have pics of your spacers, or any of your build for that matter? +1 for Ground Control. They were happy to sponsor our Targa Newfoundland rally Evo III. They came on board a month before the rally started. I ended up on a first name basis with their development guy in creating a custom set of coilovers. Unfortunately an engine failure in the prologue stage of the rally meant we were unable to compete with that car in the week long event, but we've already began discussing improvements based on our experience.

Good to know!

Myself and others can tell you from experience, 8" 0 offset wheels won't poke out past the fenders. They might looks pretty silly sunk under flares though.

The Felpro complete L28ET gasket kit I bought years ago included a paper manifold gasket.

I would be surprised if it does, but I really couldn't say.

Have you given it a generous slathering of gear oil? Mine was quite hard to turn by hand dry as well. I assume you have stub axles in it? Try putting a screwdriver through the studs and turning it like that. As for measuring breakaway torque, I'm not sure how consistent a reading you get given the "torque sensing" nature of helical diffs. I thought the more differential action they see, the tighter they lock up. My experience sounds similar to yours and mine works fine.

This should be the ticket: http://autobahn88.com/catalog/en/533-10mm-to-6mm-aluminum-vacuum-hose-joiner-reducer-adapter-autobahn88-alj-6-10-.html 3/8"= 9.525mm, 1/4"=6.35, so the the bigger end might be a bit loose, but plenty of room for clamps

Gonna need more info before believing that's the new Z, but I do actually like it. I think the point of the exercise is to revive the the concept of the affordable sports car and compete with the FR-S, and that probably can't be done in the same same price range with 6 cylinder, a turbo 4 would be a fine replacement IMO. As for styling, it also doesn't bother me that it isn't such a throw back to the original aesthetically, the retro-modern thing has been played out by domestic brands. Like the FR-S is the the AE86, it's the design philosophy that's carried over, not the silouette.

I don't think this kit will fit my Rota Shakotans, not that I've taken any measurements, but the inside of the wheels are salad bowl shape making space even tighter. If this kit would fit the 15"s I'd be all over it. Since the brackets are 2 piece, could that facilitate designing a smaller diameter kit if there was a good rotor available? Either way it's a great looking kit and a great price, bonus points for being Canadian too

I don't have an auto, nor do I drag race but it's great to see somebody catering to enthusiasts, even if it's a small market. Great work!

So I'll be building a set of coilovers this winter and found this thread very helpful, though the bulk of the info here is over 8 years old, perhaps some new products have entered the market? Anyways the car is a 1977 280Z, the plan is to build it for autocross and spirited coastal road driving. Our roads and autocross venues are pretty rough and bumpy, and since it won't be a track car, I'll be shooting for a lower spring rate, I'm thing around 200lb/in, but if I can find out the rates of the Eibach pro-kit springs currently on the car, I'd have a better idea of where I'd want to be (only a bit stiffer than it is now). I was originally thinking of going with Koni 8610's, but after reading this thread it seems they're a bit heavy for my target spring rate. Illuminas now seem like they may be ideal and it is looking like they should be available again in the coming months, also it saves breaking out the abrasives to make the Konis fit. Are there other options well suited to springs around the 200lb range, what about affordable threaded body dampers? Lastly, will using the thicker 280Z strut tubes cause any issues. I presume strut cartridges are interchangeable between early and late S30 struts? Are gland nuts the same or will I run into trouble sourcing them? Just a bit of background on the car, It's mainly stock at the moment with, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, Tokico Blue struts, Poly Bushings, ST 25/19mm sway bars, LSD. Future plans include an L28ET that has been waiting for years to go in, modest weight reduction (fiberglass bumpers this winter, CF hood down the road, lighter seats). I was planning on going with weld in camber plates, but am now leaning more towards the biscuit type to avoid/postpone cutting up the car. Adjustable control arms and TC rods should eventually make their way on to the car.

Flares won't be necessary with 8" wheels, and steel wheels should offer plenty of brake clearance for stock gear. For perspective I run 15x9 0 offset with 8mm front spacers. That's effectively 106mm/4.2" backspace, with around 4mm rim to strut clearance. The 9" width creates a decent bit of poke, but that shouldn't be an issue with narrower wheels, especially if you're adding camber. My previous wheels were 16x8 0 offset, and they had no clearance issues whatsoever.

Yeah the combination seems to be ideal, did you get your 4.5 degrees with coilovers or stock diameter springs? I presume 2.5" coilover springs should open up a decent bit of room for cast adjustment.

This sounds like an argument for more caster adjustment in the camber plates, as increasing caster from the top should pull the wheel back from the air dam.

I had heard mention that the GC plates offer little in the way of caster adjustment.

Not necessarily a self alignment, but measuring rear toe would help as far as ruling out a potential issue, such as inadvertent toe from damaged parts.

Out of curiosity, how did you remove the exhaust liners?

More people need to learn how to do their own alignments, or at least measure it. Chances are you already have the tools (set of jack stands, string, ruler), hardest part may be finding a smooth and level surface. Beyond that you just need to know the front and rear track width, just be sure to account for wheel spacers, staggered offset wheels can be tricky if they're different castings too. Here's a decent tutorial, though you should be able to find many more resources: http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/technical/alignment.html

I can't yet speak from experience, but I don't think there's anything wrong with weld in camber plates if it's welded properly, this would include beveling the stock sheet metal to expose all layers of metal, and welding on the top and bottom. A friend runs the ground control camber plates and regrets not just going with the weld in plates right off the bat as they require you slot so much out of the strut towers that you may just as well replace them. Not knocking Ground Control, they make great products, and are fantastic to deal with (they sponsored and helped develop suspension for our Evo III rally car), it just seems in this application, the small area of the strut towers doesn't seem to lend it's self as well to the bolt on plates.

Since this thread has been revived, any updates? This is the first I've seen this thread, and it has to be one of the most radical and ambitious swaps I've seen on this site.

I measured 52x1.75 on my Megans.

No problem, glad you like the pics! You do need to space the fronts somewhat, I would say there's about a 4mm interference with 280Z struts, I don't know if the smaller diameter 240Z struts tubes might clear. If you're looking to lower your car significantly you may be better off with the 8" width, as the 9's will poke about 3/4". You might be able to pull the fenders over them, but I don't have much experience with fender pulling, so I'm not sure if 3/4" is feasible. I was going to try this winter as I plan on building coilovers and having the car painted in spring. Running slicks certainly opens up your tire options, the tires in my pics are are 225/50 Falken Ziex 912, and as a cheap "performance all season", I imagine the section width runs on the narrow side, so a more aggressive street tire in the same nominal size might be significantly wider.

^ I will second this, there's a decent bit of end play on the worm gears, there was talk in another thread of sticking a bellville washer in each pocket to take out the play. Not sure there would be much benefit though.

Is this to say you have 6 sets of 4, or 6 tubes and you're using 2? Regardless, I'd be happy to buy a set off you if Serban doesn't take first dibs. I have a set of 280ZX spindles already welded into tubes from my previous car for sale. Once I have the suspension converted for my S30, I'll have a complete package for sale that will allow any coilover bodies with the same thread to work on a 280ZX. IT will include front spindles, rear mounts, front camber plates and rear top hats.

Set of 4? If Serban doesn't, I'll take em.