m1ghtymaxXx

Nice work and nice ideas. That fender exit exhaust looks cool, but I think it would conflict with a few immovable components. Not an S30, and not as involved, but here's a before and after graphics rendering I did for our Targa Newfoundland Evo:

I would think it would compound the problem. The open diff takes torque away from the wheel with more traction, therefor putting less stress on the axle. To make the situation worse, when taking tight turns, you're then putting a lot of torque into axles with no differential action. As much as it takes until a tire breaks traction and starts skipping.

This is the reality. It's a huge void in the market, I'm not sure why no tire manufacturers have stepped up with wide 15" tires when there's so many wheels on the market that need them.

I'll disagree. The first wheels I on my 77 with lowering springs were 16x8 0 offset with 205/45s. They fit with room to spare. Unfortunately they were stolen off the car so I replaced them with 15x9 0 offset with 225/50s. Many others on the board run this size without modification, though it could limit your ride height possibilities as your rims will just poke beyond the fenders. The front required 8mm spacers and longer wheel studs, but that's not a very big issue. If you want to maximize width without headaches, I'd recommend an 8" wide rim.

Payment sent, along with an additional email.

Woops, been away from the site for a few days! I'll send payment when I get home tonight.

Got any in between pictures? I'd love to see the build. It looks like an old DTM racer.

I'll join the raffle. Is it for speaker panels?

I used those on my old 280ZX, I just bought a set of S13 coilovers and cut off the bracketry. The rears are a direct bolt on so no threaded tubes were needed there. You can see my build here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/

Nice build! Props from a former Winnipeg Zedder! You may have seen my gold S130 http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/8311915600/ It unfortunately succumbed to its rust and has not been replaced with this S30 (Work in progress): http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/10524677024/

Awesome news! I can send payment at any time, However I'm located in Canada so we'd have to work out the shipping costs. Edit: Once I'm done with it, I'd be happy to rent it out to others in Canada if anyone's interested.

Come to think of it, a friend of a friend is doing a turbo VR6 into a S14. I believe he's using a custom bellhousing adapter though.

I'm looking for one, or the parts to make one!

I've done the string alignment on other cars. If done properly it should be just as accurate as what a shop can do.

Perhaps alternatively if you see flares in your future, you could trim the arches to better visually center them over the the wheels.

I've always loved VR6's, extremely compact, decent power out of the box, and very exotic sound, supported by a healthy aftermarket. I wonder if there's any off-the-shelf bellhousing adapters for RWD transmissions... I would do horrible things for a supercharged VR6 in my 280Z, it even keeps the stock displacement.

My 280Z (not sure if other years share this too?) has the horsepower rating on a plaque under the hood. That would be cool to redo with the upgraded specs! I'd get you high res shots, but my car is inaccessible in winter,

This is awesome! Nicely done!

T45 ≠4130. We were offered a free upgrade from CDS to T45 because of a production delay, and at first it seemed like a mixed blessing in that we'd be saving a ton of weight, but at the severe expense of not being able to weld it ourselves (no TIG or experience using one). Custom Cages insisted that T45 has similar welding properties to mild steel, but with physical properties like 4130. To be sure we called a few other shops that build Cutom Cages kits, inlcuding 4 Star Motorsports, arguably the best rally shop in Canada, and said they MIG all their cages unless by requested by the team (at a significant premium), and no heat treating/stress relieving necessary. Apparently this material is uncommon outside of the UK, however 2 other friends have Custom Cages T45 cages in their Targa Newfoundland tarmac rally cars. Weld examples: http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/9456377968/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/9456363326/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/9456370190/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/9456385428/

Interesting info. I installed a Custom Cages T45 Chromoly cage in our rally evo. Custom cages sent the appropriate MIG wire, which was about the equivalent of 0.30" (it was a metric diameter, can't recall exactly). It seemed a bit thick for the thin wall chromoly, and I thought I might have been able to get a slightly nicer bead with thinner wire, though in the end I was still pleased with my welds. I suppose that could explain why they provide the thicker wire.

I'm also dying to see pics. Here's a thread on how to post pics: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57387-%E2%80%9Chow-to%E2%80%9D-post-pictures-on-hybridz-the-easy-way%E2%80%A6/

Apologies for being off topic, but does anyone of you with a parts M30 have a ECU plug they'd be willing to part with? I have the ECU, but no plug, and am lost on where to source one.

Rubberized undercoat killed my 83, I would never go that route. It eventually separates and traps water. I'd say a coat of good rust inhibiting paint followed by an oil treatment (Krown, Rustcheck etc.). Like RebekahsZ said, the rubberized stuff should be fine in wheels to prevent chipping and cut down no noise, I'd check it once a year or so to make sure it's still properly adhered though.

I have 15x9's and I would say mexiflush is a good description haha. I think you would be hard pressed to stuff a 9.5" wheel under stock front fenders with anything more than ridiculously stretched tires. I'm not sure how much you can get away with pulling the fenders, but I'd be interested to find out. My 9" wheels poke about a 1/2" at the top and I'd love to be able to cover them a little better.

Can you separate the vinyl from the foam cleanly? I've never heard of such a thing, and a potential issue is finding a coating that won't dissolve the foam. If would try a few test patches to make sure there are products available that won't just melt what's left your dash before stripping more vinyl. Some people have mentioned (after triming high spots and filling cracks) covering the dash in a layer of fiberglass cloth to prevent further cracks from reaching the surface. This seems like it could work well on a dash stripped of it's vinyl so long as the foam would play nice withe resin, but I have my doubts.