fastzcars

I had a regular 91 sentra. It had two things that made the car act that way. One was the wiring connector to the Mass Airflow Sensor. The second thing was the wiring harness to one of the injector's was broken as well. Considering the under hood heat and the age, the wire's and connctors become brittle. Hope that helps.

Thats great corzette. I down loaded. And now I can see! Man you shot right by them that camero and 350z. And the final with the nova, was so close. Man that is some consistant driv'n. Thanx for posting the video and for the help.

I can't see the videos. My player say's " error.invalid name, check file name and path?" or something like that. Can you u guys help me see the vid. thanx.

"Top End Performance" makes a setup like that. Although I've heard some things about bad customer service from some of the member's here, But at least it will give you some ideas.[/img]

JG, I'm sorry to hear that the power bleeder didn't cure your problem. But I have to concure with Pop N Wood. You probably have a bad M/C. Have you taken apart the M/C. It's not that hard to do. There are only 4 internal parts. I found this out when I was going through the same ordeal. Take a day or 2 off from the project. to clear your mind. I've had to do this quite a few times myself just to keep me from running my car off a cliff. Don't give up.

Believe it or not I ended up using the 1105 adapter, american universal version. The import universal adapter is for the single cup M/C. The americal version covers both cup's on the old datsun M/C. The picture in the main page of Motive Poducts shows the older metal version. If you go the the adapter's page you'll see the 1105 adapter. You'll like it, Just a note on using the power bleeder, FOLLOW THE DIRECTION'S, I ended up spraying Brake fluid because I didn't check the seal first before I filled the bottle. Also buy some denatured alcohal to clean out the bleeder. You can get it from you local home supply hardware store.

That got me rollin on the floor. Too funny.

I had air line my lines, and no matter how many times (6 times) that I tried to bleed my brakes, the peddle would go to the floor. I finally bought a great product called MOTIVE PRODUCT power bleeder. It's a 4 quart bottle with a hand pump in the top. You fill the bottle with brake fluid, mount the brake adapter to the master cylinder,pump the handle to 10 to 15 lbs. and bleed all four caliper's in 20 minutes. I highly recommend the product. I was fooling around with my brakes for 2 weeks straight before I finally bought the power bleeder. Made it so easy. THey advertisein the GRASSROOTS MOTORSPORTS magazine. I can relate JGkurz. Good luck.

Hi Guys, I just got wind that someone out here is putting in one of those bad boys in a Z. There is a race car shop in valencia Cali. doing it for a guy. They said they had to cut the fire wall and parts of the floor to set back the motor. Man I'm going to have to make a trip up there to see this for myself. If it's true I'll try to get pix.

Hi Grumpy.sorry I should have read your post carefully. You did write "and remove your rocker's" That makes since. Well tonight I went out and did the test I got 65 ft/lbs. I drained the oil. and found a shock. the oil looked like mother of pearl. The filter was full of fine metal gray dust in it. I changed the oil and filter. But i'm guessing the damage has been done. I now think that the bearings were too tight. causing the motor to seize. That was why the motor was shutting down. And all my diagnosis of external accessories didn't find anything wrong. Thanks for your input Grumpy. At least I think I found my problem. Now to have go pull the motor out.

Well. I have bad news and good news. I think i fond the problem. On another post that Grumpyvette stared on what kind of torque it takes to turn a shortblock assembly I discovered that my motor took 65 ft/lbs. So I drained the oil and removed the filter to see. What a shock. . The oil lokked like mother of pearl. All kinds of dark gray matter was coming out of the filter.and the oil was saturated in fine metal matter. I think my engine builder screwed up. I did find it kind of funny that my oilpressure was so high at 50psi at only 900 rpm. I think the the bearings are too tight. The piston rings are sealing, because there is still no colored smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Man I hate this. Now I have to pull the motor out for sure. Saved the oil and filter to show the engine builder what I found. I think I only have 4 hours of run time on this motor. And yes guys. I did prime the motor with the distributer out and I used an electric drill to prime the oil pump. Well at least my gut feeling was right after all. Thanks for all your input guys. Wish me luck. And I was so looking foward to attending the national convenction this month. And I already paid for the willow springs and the car show dates. Damn.

Sorry guys, I didn't get the quote in the previous post. Here goes." O.k. you've assembled the short block and you've got the torque wrench to measure" The key word is "Short block". sorry guys. Thanks again Grumpy.

So Grumpy, Wouldn't the trans, even in neutral, and the assembled heads w/ rocker's installed add resistance, The only reason why I ask is because on your first post you stated Can you just clearify. Thanks for your input Grumpy.

hi grumpy. Your info is always informative.I have a question. How can you check your motor if it is already installed in the car? I'm having problems with my motor shutting down. I'm thinking that the bearings are too tight.

Hi,Wild and Mike. The carb is not too hot. I can keep my bare hands on the carb. Although, the sheild did reduce the temp quite a bit than before. I may have to try a different material because I only have 1/2 inch of hood clearanse to the air filter. Maybe some carbon fiber, fiberglass or phenolic sheets? WickedWild, I did have to readjust my rocker's once. on the very first time I turned on the motor. It was making alot of noise, so I took of the valve cover's to discover that one of the rocker studs had loosened up. So I remover all the rocker's and torqued down all of the studs, just to make sure they were all tight. Then I readjusted the rockers as per the manuel. By the way I have the stock style hydrolic roller lifters. Mike. would fuel boiling in the bowls make the car run lean? Or make the car predetonate? I personally never expericed fuel boiling thing? so I have no reference to compare. Thanks for your input guys.

Hi Mas8230, I just found my chilton manuel for 82 to 88 camero. It said's "Before removing the hydrolic components for repair,remove the clutch housing dust cover to verify the malfunction. Measure the movement of the slave cylinder push rod by pushing the clutch pedal to the floor; the minimum movement should be 14mm. Do not replace the cylinder if its movement exceeds the minimum." Inanother part of the manuel it saids " The diaphragm spring type clutches used are available in two differnet designs: flat diaphragm springs or bent springs. The bent fingers are bent back to create a centrifugal boost ensuring quick re-engagement at highwer engine speeds. This design enables pressure plate load to increase as the clutch disc wears and makes low pedal effort possable even with a heavy duty clutch. The throwout bearing design is 1 1/4" long an i shorter than the bearing used with the flat finger clutch." In short maybe the throwout bearing is the wrong one. This happened to me a few years back when I replaced my nissan's truck clutch.The clutch I oder'd through Kragen had too short of a bearing , compared to the stock one. Even the Kragen's manager conseaded that the bearing was wrong when I showed him the stock and the one that they sold me. They even oftered to pay for a new nissan throwout bearing.

Maybe the throwout bearing is too far away from the clutch finger's. I have a McMaster hydrolic throwout bearing , and the instruction's indicate , from .030 to .060 thousands of clearense from the T/O bearing o the finger's. With a 1/2 travel multiplied by the fork length of say 4 inches that should be enough travel. I have a camero manuel , I'll check to see if I can find that clearense requirement.

Hi Tim. Ya I did that too. It is seem's to be heat related. I can reproduce the problem by getting the motor warmed up. before it would shutdown at 190 degrees. now with all the mods that i did it happens when it reaches 220. This morning I decided to start over. And not take anything for granted. I assumed nothing and did a step by step elemination of all the possablilties. Like Sherlock Holmes, I checked pressure with a separte gauge,O.K. Removed the fuel line from the carb to check actual flow,O.K. Removed the carb and checked the needle and seats, all clean, Turned the separted bowls upside down and blew threw the input ports, seals nice and tight, moved the floats down, unseats and let's air through O.K.Reinstalled the carb. checked float level ,perfect just weeping out of the sight plug. Then I double checked for gas line kinks, I removed the fuel cell access panel to check to see if the pickup fuel sock was pluged. Ok. I installed an internal return line from the bypass reguator to sump box in the ATL fuel cell itself, Thinking that maybe the fuel pump was sucking the sumpbox dry, and the gas was not entering the sump box fast enough. Test drove it, NO DICE, Still stalls, I reurned after it let sit for 30 seconds and I barley got it back to my garage, Yhe temp gauge read 220 and the motor sounded like it was deiseling? Like the bearings or the pistons were too tight, creating extra heat. I shut it down for fear of it freezing up , it sounded so bad. So I quickly got a connector to check to see if the igntion was the problem by diconnecting the distributer and jumping the connector lead , I can hear the MSD box making spark in the disy. I'm porbably taking the car to a local race car shop. for thay recommened me this builder and have them confirm, or at least find the problem out for me. Wish me luck. Thanx again. Tim.

Hi guys just a update. I decided to clear my mind and started over again. I didn't take any of the parts for granted. So I checked everything over from the induction to igition. I think there is something wrong with the motor, It's probably machined too tight. I have spark and fuel. I hav to take the motor out and take it apart to check clearences. . I should have assembled the motor myself. That way I could check clearences along the way of assembling it. DAMN.

labrat, you might be right. I do have a taurus fan and full MSD igition system and a 60 amp alt to keep it all running. I'll need to buy a 100 amp alternater now . I can almost keep the car running by giving throatling the peddel, I can see the voltmeter sweeping back and forth from 12 to 14 volts and the motor labors to stay on and evenually it die's. It almost sounds to me that the motor is leaning out and predetonates and shuts down for lack of gas? But if that is the case by throatling the gas pedel I can see the squirter's dumping gas into the barrels? I wish I had a Air/fuel ratio meter to tell me if that is happening. Tim240z I have my holley blue pump wired directly to my fuse panel which is getting power from the stock igition switch. I'll need to buy a new switch just to rule it out. Thanks for the input guys, keep them coming , I need all the help I can get.

holy smokes. 8 turbo's. That is just sick. But cool at the same time.

Hi Tim. Thanks for your input. You know I have been at this problem for almost a month now. I'm begining to think that this car has a mind of it's own. I think I'm going to have to step back and take a break from it. I guest it's like that saying" You can't tell the forest from the trees" or something like that. Anyway, The whole ignition system is new. From the plugs to the coil. I even borrowd a freind's MSD box and coil. One of the symtom's is it doen't sound like a mis in the ignition. The motor sounds like it's laboring to stay on? Would ignition problems cause this symtom? Maybe. Oh one more thing I did notice is that my volt meter in the dash suddently drops to 12 volts from 14 right before the motor shuts down. Could a bad of overheating alternator shut down the whole electrical system? Thanks again for your response Tim. I'll keep at it. I'll post my results if I find the problem, so that other's could learn from my adventures with this crazy car.

Just an update guys, I made an aluminum heat sheild out of .050 sheet. I also install sheething around the fuel line by the engine. The fuel lines coming from and to the fuel tank are warm to the touch. NOT HOT at all. I don't think the lines in the trany tunnel are picking up any significant heat from the exhaust. I give up I have no other recourse but to shoot it, and put me out of my misery

Thanks alot for your input guys, I'll make a sheild and back down the pressure. I'll report back with my findings, Thanks again.I really do appreciate your input.

holy $%*!. That is some nice welding, I like that very much.