fastzcars

Pop n wood > I do have to comment that the passanger compartment held up fine, I mean considering the force of the impact ,the doors arn't even out of alingment with the strickers. I'm sure the combination of subframe connectors, cage, and front and rear strut towers, reinforced the whole car. I would say without a doubt that I would have been much more seriously injured if I didn't have the stuff I did put in. If I only had my seat belt on tight I would have walk away WITHOUT A SCRATCH. Now excuse me while I go ice my BUT.

As far as insurance goes, I'll get you guys an update on monday whenthe adjuster calls. My Hagerty insurance was $365 a year agreed value at $20,000. Believe me I would rather have my car fixed for half that than to take the full amount, just so I don't have to rebuild it myself and spend another 5 years to build it back up.

pop n wood. That's funny. But it hurts when I laugh.

We were merging on an onramp to the freeway . It happened so fast, that it seemed that everything was going slow motion. By the time I stopped moving the truck was hauling down the freeway. I went to the emergncy room to get xrays. Luckly no broken tailbone. But man does my but hurt. I didn't have my seat belt too tight and I bounced up and landed on the side door portion of the roll cage. Stupid me having it on and not even having it tight? I AAA tow truck showed up in like 10 minutes and had me hauled off the freeway. He was scared that we would be hit because there is no emergncy lane on that onramp. AAA said they would call CHP for me but they didn't show in that 10 minutes. Well after we got off the freeway I called the non-emercy number to the CHP and they said since I didn't need an ambulance and the car was already off the freeway, I should go the the local CHP office on monday to file a report during normal business hours? I have no witnesses. But at least the Hagerty rep on the phone was very nice , she seemed very concered about my welfare and said a local rep would call and take a report on monday.Wish me luck guys.

Ya iskone it was his fault. I have insurance with Hagerty.My car looks like your's, only all four corners are gone. I bounced off the concrete wall 2 times and hit both from and rear wheels of the semi's trailer.I don't think he even felt the impact. He didn't stop to see if I was alright.

Damn. I was merging on the onramp and a 18 wheeler squeezed me to the wall. All I could do was brace myself for the impacted. All 4 corners are damaged. The hood looks like a taco. Pictures to follow. And next need end I was going to a track event in California Speedway.

Damn, I knew I should off proof read it!!!! Sorry.

Speeder, Do you mean that you got larger stub axels than the 27 spline 280z version?

Adrein and Alex, I knew when I saw the car at your shop it would be on a cover of a mag. I said it before and I'll say it again< If I didn't have the V8 already , I would of gone the SR20 way.

That's a VERY clean swap. Even if it is low on power, V8 wise. But a little nitrous should take care of that worry.

You know I have to agree with 80LT1 on this. The L98 and LT1 have enough of a difference to make them 2 different animals. The heads would bolt up but the water and intake ports are slightly different, and way leak.

Well it sounds you did everything right. I got one more thing to add , how about restricted muffler or kinked exhaust? unbolt the whole exhaust system from the manifold and start it up uncorked.

You know I had a set of "Earl's Speed bleeders" . They some how plugged up and the small check valve stuck closed. I couldn't get ANY fluid past them, so I replaced them with regular bleeders and bought a " MOtive Products power bleeder" . It's a plastic cannister that you fill w/ new brake fluid and mount an adapter to the top of the master cylinder .You pump air into the canister and that forces the new fluid into the top of the MC. Once the adapter is mounted on the MC it takes like 5 mintues for each wheel to completely flush out w/ fresh fluid. It actually takes longer to clean out the Power bleeder than to use it. It's a one man job. I also used the hand held vacuum pump version, but I ran into the problem when you opened the bleeder.air would be drawn through the threads of the opened bleeder and you couldn't tell when all the air was actually out the the system. Here's a link. http://www.motiveproducts.com , http://www.p-car.com/diy/bleeder/ .

You know what guys after reading my post it seems that I may have typed it up wrong . What I meant to say is that the 280zxt and the stock axels DO NOT fit. The 300zxt cv's that I currently have DO fit with the stock mounts that the S.T. rear bar comes with. I hope that cleared it up.

found this info. se if this helps.

The alternater on the ls1 is internally regulated. You just by pass the stock regulater. Do you have the JTR manuel? I have to see if the wiring for the Stock LS1 alt is the same as my 140 amp powermaster alt I got from summit racing? I'll check.

FYI guys. I just reinstalled my rear S.T. rear sway bar. The one that mounts to the rear of the diff. Well it fit's with the bar going under the CV axels. Now one thing I have to make clear is that they fit with the 300zxt CV's. NOT!!! the 280zxt or the stock axels. This is on a 73 z. I had all 3 sets under my car, so this is a confirmation. They are a little tight at full droop. Meaning that with the rear suspension fully extended, they JUST CLEAR. and at ride hieght I have 1/2 inch clearence. I just wanted you guys to know.

try my favorate place. http://www.mcmaster.com . search piano hinge. you'll find 6 pages of piano hinges!!!! there's got to be one just the right size. I do seem to remenber that the glove box hinge was very much like a PH.

How about a " Piano hinge" to repair the glove box.

Hay bartman do you mean that the headers are for sale? If so I'm first in line.

I can only think of two things that could go wrong. One would be the amp gauge. I would remove it and install a voltage gauge. The whole electrical system of the car goes through the amp meter. Just wire the large white and red wires together and bypass it. The second thing would be if you install a higher current draw item, like higher wattage headlights or stero amps. But the install of the new alternator wouldn't cause the wire to burn out. It would be the higher current draw of the headlights and the amps.

I have to agree w/ mikelly on this one. WAY TOO MUCH ON THIS. Arn't we doing the same thing. Putting a large engine in a small, light platform? As far a the handling issue's are concerned, under and or oversteer can be corrected w/springs and sway bar swaps. Lets just accept it as another cool swap.

That a great deal. It's too bad I already have one. I'm sure there's at least 2 guys here that need one.

We will pray for you and your family.

Bastaad, I live in L.A. but I work in Burbank. I could bring my Power Brake bleeder kit, and help you bleed the brake's. I would need to do it after work. Did you change the rubber hoses to the calipers and