fastzcars

WOW. 335's , that's insane I likee too. more pictures please.

Hi guys, Thanks for the interset. HICKL. The wheels are 17x7 front. 17x8 rear. tires are 235x40 fr. and 255x40 rr. Benjlv. The steering rack is from a mazda miata. The tie end rods are from the miata, cut down and rethreaded. I'm going to use the miata pump. I found an adjustable mounting bracket from ZOOPS, that I think should work. It's costing me some cash doing the R&D on this .going through 2 pumps and brackets to find what would fit with the MARCH serpentine setup. I wanted to stay with the miata pump to keep the matched setup of the pump and rack. I'll be getting the pump back from the rebuilders thursday. I'll post some more pics then. About the search function. Try MIATA or POWER STEERING on the brakes and suspension section. I found 7 pages worth of info? Well wish me luck guys. I hope this setup works out. :

Thanks guys for the kind words. Hey Pete your car was my inspiration to start this project in the first place, Thanks Pete. Innerware. The dash is a full dash cap from MSA,It was easy to install once the dash and gauges were removed.The air conditioner is from vintage air. The controls are all electric servo motors. It's there GEN II model. DavyZ , I tried to think like a manufacturer engineer. as for as the color scheme goes. What would they use as far as what color and or texture. Thanks again guys for the encouragement.

Just an update guys. I finally got my drivetrain back into my car! I know, it's so lame, But the fruit's of my labor is finally starting to pay off. Man I'm happy. I can almost myself. but I'll won't. Not just yet. Pictures 100 thru 124 are the latest pictures. Thanks you hearing me out.http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/graphequ@pacbell.net/lst?.dir=/zcar&.view=t see if this link works. if not , try my personal link.

Thanks for the encouragements guys. I'm not very good on right up's. but I'll try. The Crossmember needed some massaging. Mostly at the driver side engine mount. It needed to be clearenced about 1/2 inch. The mounting ears for the rack itself were cut in half and extended 1/2 as well. The miata rack has a flat bottom, Forming a "D" shape mount. So the ears on the crossmember need to have a flat surface. I would say it is NOT a boltin mod. If your good with a welder, It's easy. But if your not. like me, It's hard. That's why I had a shop modify the crossmember for me.I didn't trust my welding after I tried on a stare CM. Now the steering shaft is actually quite easy, the top half is from the Z and the bottom half from the miata welded together. The miata shaft is hollow. so the Z half slipped into it rather well. The tie end rods I had rethreaded by a machine shop and cut down by about 3 inches each side, I used the stock ends from the miata.I'm still trying to figure out the pump mount thing. When I do I'll post some more pictures. Well I hope that helps guys.

Hay Brad D , That car LOOK"S GREAT. Man I wish I can get my car done half as good as yours. But I'm workin on it. again greta lookin car.

Hi georgiaZ, McMaster-Carr has the door weather stripping. Pierre Z car's, they're a z restoration shop in southern california recommended them.http://www.Mcmastercarr.com look at page 3181. item number 1120A33 . each door takes about 11.5 feet. so the 25 foot roll is what your looking for. Hope that helps.

Hay Tim240z. I found an add in super chevy mag. I think they have what your looking for. http://www.billetfab.com Jeff Johnston's billet Fabrications. They are even some what local. Simi Valley. phone# 805-584-0428. They're $159.00 for .125" wall sportsman valve cover's and the will engrave off your artwork. Hope that help's

Hi Owen. Try McMaster Carrhttp://www.mcmaster.com page 3181 item#1120A33 I got the 25 foot roll. each door takes 11 1/2 feet. I got that info from Pierre Z in Hawthorne.

Hi tim, I have an old set of center bolt valve covers, if you want them to try out?

scca. What ever happened to the new stub axel's and companion flanges?

Hi Ross. Have you thought about sound proofing the interier cabin with dynamat or brown bread? Maybe you can reduce what you hear that way? Just a thought. Maybe double up on the sound proofing stuff.

Hi Rebel, I'm installing a vintage air unit. A generation 2 model. It's about half the size of the stock unit. Check out the pics of the unit on my web page. Go to my profile. then click on my web page. http://www.vintageair.com.

Just an update guys. I Got the rack installed. new pictures on yahoo website.

Hi tomohawk. I just added more pictures on my yahoo website. The rack in installed on the car. The motor is out so it was easy to change out the crossmember. Also, the the crossmember does need to be modified. the mounting ears had to be cut and lengthed, and a flat piece of steel welded in. the pictures will show you the differences between the stock and the modified crossmember. Hope this hels.

update . went to autozone , PN#47000 vender's name is "Lockworks".price was increased to $34.95. I got a price break on the rekey. I had a local datsun restoration shop rekey it for me, along with a handfull he had done. only cost me $25.00.

silverbullit, I paid $24.95 6 months ago.for 2 locks. I had to have the hatch lock rekeyed to match. I'll go to autozone to reconfirm, and get part number's. for you guys.

I also used maxima locks from autozone as well. They fit perfect, no bending at all? I'm not sure of the year. But I ask the counter guy to get me the earliest year in there catalog. I'm pretty sure it was a 81 model. I took a Z lock to compare. and the arm was less than a 1/16 inch longer.

J260z. Sorry it took so long, I'm house shopping, and all my spare time is in that . Anyway I finally measured the inner pivot pionts, The stock rack was 24 7/8" and the miata was 26". so it seems that your subaru rack is very close to mine. When I install the shortened tierods with the miata rodend's , the angel of the tierods followed the Lower Arms almost perfectly. I took pictures, I'll post them tomorrow.

centerline makes wheels also. http://www.centerlinewheels.com/ hope that helps.

I forgot to add. The tires are kuhmo's 712. I do agree with John that different manufactures tire sizes are a little different from each other. Even if they have the same size labeled. What I would do, If I were you is go to a tire store and compare a Goodyear and a Kuhmo or any brand you like and see the actual physical size differences between them.I you want to see how they look on a car, Just go to my Yahoo web page. And scroll to the last picture for a rear view of the tire/wheel fit.

Phantom, I was able to fit a 255-40x17 tire on a 8 inch wheel, with a 5 inch backspace. And I still have at least another 3/4 inch clearence on the inside. But I still had to roll the fender lip to keep the tire from rubbing on the outside. Hope that helps.

I see what you mean guys. I'll measure it on sunday and report back. Darn, I should have thought of that to.

Hi Tim, Sorry to hear about your simulator problems. But Frys would be the first place I would go. All the parts you need are probably in stock there. As far as markings. Capaciter should have an Arrow pointing from one lead to another , The Base of the arrow is the Negative lead. The tip of the arrow, Positive. Resister's don't have Polarity, they can be installed any way. LED's won't light backward's ,they usually have a longer lead , which is positive, but you can test them with a D cell battery , Depending on there voltage rating. As far as markings on the board, Thats a good one? They should have them?What did you recieve as far as documentation? Schematics? Component placement sheet? PM me and maybe I can help.

Hi Neon. I have to agree with Greimann on this, You Can't assume anything, Barrow a timing light, Vacuum gauge, and a fuel pressure Gauge. It could be from a clogged fuel filter to a bad accelerater pump on your carb. But you have to take it one step at a time. Good luck, I'm sure you'll find the problem. 8)