Mack

Ive got a 280ZX!!! I picked it up in january '04 for FREE from a guy in southern cali (I lived in Pheonix at the time). It had a blown headgasket and was half torn apart when I picked it up. bought a parts car, yadda yadda yadda..... ended up with a maxima N47 head on a flat top block with mild bowl work, port matching on the head and intake, 60MM TB, 2.5" cat back exhaust and Megasquirt N Spark with a 280ZXT dist to do the spark part. currently, it has a bit of body damage and is awaiting parts instillation and painting. nothing major tho. I have a full set of Apex'i N1 Pro S14 coilovers awaiting modification for install. Its also gonna get a set of poly bushings to tighten it up. this car will also be the first recipient of my frankenstein KA/L 24v head, sitting atop a 3.1L L bottom. I funno, thats all I have and Im sure Ill get trashed for having a 2+2, lol!!

How much are you guys looking to spend? Ive got a freind that makes tubular manifolds out of 304 SS. he charges $575 for a 4 cylinder, so Id imagine a 6 would be right around the 750 mark. Here is what his manifold looks like. this is the picture off of his website and Ive seen thes in person, they are VERY well made and beautifully constructed.

DISCONNECT the FPR, and it should run a constant 38psi. you dont need an adjustable FPR with a standalone unless you are running a turbo. With the fuel pressure changing all the time, its making your fuel injectors flow differently, thus making tuning a PITA. DATALOG it and throw that file up. that'll give us a clue as to your duty cycles and what not.

I REALLY like the front end on that silver/gunmetal car. any more info on that?!?

I got to thinking about 280ZXs and RB engines (I have a 280ZX and an RB25DET in peices), and I know one of the major pains of the swap is the conversion of front sump to rear. Would it be possible to solve this (in an S130 anyways) with the use of an early maxima crossmember? I know the 280ZX and maximas share a LOT of suspension and chassis parts, and the maxima motors are front sump..... SO, anyone think this would work? GOD, I wish I still lived in Phoenix. early maximas/810s are a dime a dozen in the u pull it yards, up here in MN, its rare to see ANY DATSUN in the yards.

when your brake lights started stayin on, was there peices of rubber that suddenly appeared in the drivers side foot well? there is a little rubber stopper that is a press fit into a hole where the brake sensor (mounted to the pedal) hits the brace for the pedal assembly. when that little rubber doober detoriated, the plunger on the brake sensor goes RIGHT into the hole that the rubber doober was pressed into. the fix for me was to electrical tape a penny where the rubber thing used ot go. Nice find, BTW>

scew the TB42, get yourself a TB48DE. 24 valves and 4.8L of displacement. Go and search Youtube for TB48DE. It comes in a big, honking nissan offroad SUV. Well, some people in the middle east turbocharge and build the ♥♥♥♥ out of them. Lets just say it shows a Gixxer 1000 its tailkights on the FREEWAY, from a ROLL. here are a few videos you have to search for nissan partol and add turbo to get the good videos. bike race dirt drag race

very nice! I cant wait to get my motor done. which reminds me, I should take those non-molested KA24DE heads over to the machine shoip today and let them take some measurements! anyway, "while you're in there" you should to a little home porting work. just clean up the valve bowls, it WILL make a difference!

venus-auto can get them whenever you need them for $1500 for a front clip. the single turbo will make for some clearance problems with the crossover pipe. however, if you ditch all but the alternator, you probably could route the turbo plumbing in front of the motor. on the shifter thing, I have no idea how to solve that other than maybe getting a pathfinder 5spd? I knwo the VQ35DE made its first appearance in the 200.5 pathys, but as the whether they were ONLY 4wd or if there was a 2wd variant? no idea.

well, e-racer, the VQ30DET does come turbo from the factory. as far s the ECU thing, megasquirt the bastard. of course, thats my solution for everything.

Im sure you could use the stock ECU if you wired it properly. its a VQ,, not a VG. a VQ is a few pounds lighter than a VG because its aluminum. and there is sooooo much you can do to the VQ, as tuners are just starting to mess around with it. it comes in newer Y34 (chassis code) cedrics. It is RWD and it comes with a 5spd AT behind it. I am sure that the 350Z 6spd and clutch assembly would bolt on no problem tho.

get a front clip of a japanese market cedric with a VQ30DET. built for boost from teh factory, and last I heard, Venus-auto.com was selling the front clip for $1500. wick the boost up, bigger injectors and other BPUs and call it a day.

$500 for an RB30 block? what all is included? can you give me his information? Ive got a complete RB25DET motor with bent valves.

so, it would ba alright for all the componenets to weigh as much as 4 other blocks, but 5 is too much:? is that bare block a DETT or just an E? cause I know the SOHC engine is a bit lighter than the DE-TT versions. Also, where are you getting your 110lbs weight from? this guy has scales and accurate ones at that. What reason would he have to provide false information?

some of the difference can be made up in the fact that the VG had the AC on it and the VH did not, AC compressors are heavy. Also, the VG had the flywheel and clutch assembly, which can add quite a few pounds, while the VH just had a trans bell housing (which is aluminum, if Im not mistaken) the wiring harness is neglibable(sp?) as I said, the turbos and manifolds will make a bit of difference. especially considering you have 2 of them and heavy cast manifolds to go with each one. Even with all of this taken into account, I would say that from Marcg's results, the VH woiuld still weigh less than a VG by oprobably a good 50lbs.

I don think you willhave any problems. Infact, if your rocker panels are whole, there is no reason for sag. the shell of one of these cars is amazingly light, so I dont think you will have a problem. although I could be wrong. I would say to bolt the front crossmember back in and use that as a front jackstand point.

tihs is your best bet. rear Xmember slotting guide Its for the Z31, but the principle would be the same. only problem would be that you would need to get some Z31 or Infiniti M30 rear bushings and eccentric bolts for it to all work together. with the eccentrics, I dont think they move around THAT much, as this is how a LOT of factory cars have their toe and camber adjustable, including all of the nissan S13/S14 and Z32 cars.

so, 610 to 553? thas about 50lbs. bolt on a set of turbos and you have it weighing the same, but it has 1.5x the displacement and the makings of a racing engine. 6 botls mains, forged everything and massive webbing to strengthen the block.

I dont have the greatest fiath in the VB921. I fried mine and I have since been running an ignitor off of an early 80s to mid 90s VG30E maximas. I have it wired up off of the fidle circuit. It was one of those quick fix things that turned into a permanent fix.

Ill throw this into the mix.... regarding specific gravity and all. cast iron is roughly 3x as dense as cast aluminum. there aint NO WAY there is 3x as much material in a cast aluminum block vs a cast iron block of the same size. I had a chance to pick up an NSX block at a shop that is working with me on my frankenstein head, and let me tell you it was a lot lighter than a VG block in similar condition. (i.e. the heads were off, no crank, no pistons, basically just a block.) I could pick it up with one arm. I just dont see where its that hard to beleive that a VH could be lighter than a VG. I mean, look at a SBF with just aluminum heads, water pump and intake, its comes out lighter than an L series engine by a fair bit! and the L engine is already equipped with aluminum intake, head and timing cover. IM not saying that he difference is that drastic in the VH VS VG, but I can definately see where a VH would be lighter than a VG, if only by a little bit.

have you looked into any of nissans overseas offerings on small deisel engines? they have a YD25DDTi, its a 2.5L, DOHC direct injection turbo intercooled that makes 175rwhp stock and about 300tq. they also have a ZD30DDT, 3.0L 16 valve 4 cyl turbo intercooled that is rated at I think 150rwhp and about 250ish tq. they come in overseas versisons of Xterras and Frontiers. Or perhaps a TD42Ti?

87s came with ca16de, 88 and 89 came with the ca18de.

VERY nice car! I always had evil thoughts of doing something like that to a 1988 pulsar.

eh, give it another day. as to the original poster, I am pretty sure the P79 can handle boost just fine. the liners are cast into the head, Ive see a few come out or become loosened but as far as worrying about it going through a turbo or something, it would first have to work its way through the exhaust manifodl with all its bends. not likely. as far as an N42 or P90? P90 with dish tops will lower CR to 7.4:1. thats factory turbo car compression. If your not going crazy for HP numbers, keeping an N42 on a dished piston block will keep your compression at 8.3:1, which would make for a LOT better off boost response. As far as the 1980 engine, if it is a 1980 engine, it should have an N47 head, which is the exact same as an N42 head, except that it has the exhaust liners (just like the P79). BTW, I have a complete N42 head and will have a complete, non-webbed, non EGR intake for sale shortly. I also have a 300ZX T3, 280ZXT exhaust manifold and all of the J-pipe crap. And I frequent trips to Fargo, every once in a while.

I wonder if I could make a "replica" of a 1989 Skyline GT-R?