Mack

Im looking for a set of 6 L14 rods. From what I understand, the L14 came mosetly in japanese and mexican/south american market bluebirds/510s. PM me with a price or where I can find a set. thanks!

good thing I kept one of the LD28s whole and didnt just yank the crank like everyone else. might be fun in the near future if I can find a proper gear set for it (i.e. something lower than 3.36) or just do the r230 conversion. EDIT: would it be feasable to put the switch on the some sort of TPS sensor so that aneroid only sees manifold pressure when you put it more than 3/4 throttle or something like that?

I have no idea. Im sure they will give me the full story when I go to pick it up. There has to be something behind it, as it was a $3000 body kit in 1983 and add another $12000 for installation and paint (quoted from the owners of Kaminari that I ran into at MSA).

unfortuntely, I will more than likely be parting the car itself, but the kit will live on and be installed on my 1980 slick-top 2+2. This is the same car that will also be getting my own frankenstein head (1.5KA24DE) if the damn machine shop ever decides to finish it, S13 coilovers, Z32 big brakes, and Im trying to find some info on a Kontrolle rear crossmember, as they supposedly had better rear end geometry for squat control and handleing. oh, and the kit actually looks better (than a starquest) in person. I saw one at the MSA show this year. It is owned by the owners of Kaminari. I got to chat with them for a bit about it, and they are really nice guys! The car it was on was a 2 seater and had an aftermarket turbo system installed. It had a "scramble" button on the gearshift. push it and it was an instant 5psi jump in boost! kind of like the Go Baby, Go! button from Gone in 60 seconds.

Yeah, I got it for $1200 and thats with the rims (16" enkei mesh!) and all the parts to fix teh engine fire stuff, brand new from MSA. I think it will look MUCH better with a slick top in blue and silver 2 tone. pics!

also, what the KA24Es like to do is after all of the plastic peices have broken, the chain will eventually eat on the timing cover and break through into one of the mail coolant flow passages from the water pump. then you get chocolate milk in your oil pan and it mayonaises your motor. looks like a blown headgasket, but its really the water pump epmtying the system into your oil pan, which is actually worse. fills the oil pan up right quick too! I drained about 2 gallons out of a car once.

hello all, I recently purchased a 280ZX with a full kaminari wide body kit. I guess te car itself is in bad shape (rusty floors and rockers) but the body kit is fine. no damage, craks or breaks. The plan is to take the kit off (cutting the rear fenders will be necessary, I imagine) and put it on my slick top. Id be willing to work with someone if anyone wanted to make molds for a reproduciton of this kit as I understand it is no longer available and 280ZX kits are far and few between these days. the only problem is that its for a 2+2. which is good for me, since I have a 2+2 but bad for abnout 80% of 280ZX owners out there. that being said, the front fenders should be fine, the rears would need a little massaging to put them on a 2 seater.... so if anyone has any questions, feel free to PM me or post them in the thread. *note I wont actually have the car until the end of june when I travel to NY to pick it up. also, Ill be driving out to NY with an empty 2 wheel car dolly, and Im leaving from Minneapolis so if anyone needs anything transported, let me know.

Thats the problem with the JWT stuff. it runs too rich as a safety precaution and not enough timing to boot. they are really covering thier own asses to make sure engines running thier ECUs dont blow up. There was a thread on one of the big 240sx forums about a guy DYNOING a JWT ECU and a hacked MAF set up BACK TO BACK with the same boost, same everything and the hacked MAF (A really ghetto mod) made about 20lbs/ft more in the tq department from 3500rpm to 5000rpm. hacked MAF vs JWT ecu

bosch platinum +4s suck in our cars. I had them on my 83 280ZX NA and it fouled regularly. ran just fine once I went back to NGK Rs.

round port header, wonder if its a round port head? def early 240Z carbs and balance tube. pretty damn clean. if its an L28, it should move fairly good, assuming everything is in tune.

I hope that my car will put down similar numbers and I have a 2.8L! I have a very similar delta regrind cam and a maxima N47 head with high quench, giving me a cr of 11.5:1 with flat tops. I just got done with my intake manifold and it will be welded by toimorrow! 41MM (weird I know) ITB set up. and the head is port matched to it. also have a header and 2.5" catless exhaust. Ill be running it with MSII, and I hope to make it to tune it on tuesday next week, right before I leave for MSA. cutting it close I knwo..... ha ha!

240SX control arms are wayyyyy too short. plus, my car will be lowered with the coilovers on it, so Ill need the spacers, lol. on another note...... anyone know of any outer tie rods that will fit a 280ZX rack that are about 1.5 to 2" longer than stock? Ill probably just make some tie rod extenders.....

Ill post measurements in this thread when I take them again. I should have them up in a few days.

Hey now Tony! All I needed was a little caliper bolt, not a complete lower end! and yeah, I can shoot you some measurements, rwdawg2.

Its not the suspension Im worried about, 1 fast Z. HA ha! Im sure it will make it. I havent driven it yet as the engine is under construction as well. the camber appears to be o.k. I am also running S13 camber plates up front, and I had it set for neutral (0 degrees) and it looks like thats what I got, so I think everything is set up fairly well. Im just getting some machinery (mill and bandsaw) set up in my garage and if I do sell them, it wont be until after MSA. so, early may at the earliest. as far as the brakes go, the only thing special you need to run 300ZX big brakes on a 4 lug set-up is a 300ZX rotor re-drilled for 4 lug. and of course the caliper specific brackets to bolt them to the hub.

My aim for this was to make it bolt in with as little custom work as possible, and to keep from cutting the chassis or any original parts. basically, I wanted to make this completely reversible in case my car ever becomes a collectible, HA ha!!!

the first pic is the adapter I made. You can see the holes I drilled and where it bolts to the 280ZX control arm in the original locations, and you can also see the 3 bolts I drilled to get the maxima/stanza balljoint on there. Oops, I forgot to put in the balljoint pic, so its last (sixth) and out of order. But in the last pic you can see the ball joint bolted to the adapter, bolted to the control arm. second pic is just the 240SX spindle/hub assembly bolted to the the control arm/balljoint assembly. third pic is the coilover unit and everything put into my 280ZX. fourth pic is a side veiw and you can kind of see the angle that the ball joint sits at and fifth pic you can see how well it all works out assembled and dropped on the ground! the thought process behind the coilovers was to measure the betweeen the tops of the strut towers on both cars and measure ball joint ot ball joint across the front suspension on both cars, then subtract the distance between the strut tops from the distance between the balljoints and find out how much further the ball joints are out on the S13 as opposed to the 280ZX. with all the math, I figured I needed to put the ball joints out about 1.25" on each side to keep the stock S13 geometry. which is still kind of screwed up anyway because the control arms on the 280ZX are actually longer than S13, but at least the strut angle is right! the rears were easy, like I said. just redrill the top mount for 3 mounting bolts instead of the s13 2, and turn down the OD of the top mounting had so it will fit in the 280ZX rear strut tower.

no, they dont line up, thats why I had to make an adapter. Ill have to get a pic of it, but I made an adapter out of 1" thick aluminum. I drilled 3 bolt holes for the original 280ZX ball joint bolt holes, and 3 bolt holes for the maxima/stanza ball joint. I tapped all 6 holes. 280ZX TC rod and other bolts come up from the bottom and the maxima/stanza ball joint gets bolted to it from the top down, if that makes any sense.

the only thing I was concerned about was the fact that the 280ZX ball joint now sits at that angle all the time and that it might limit full suspension travel. the maxima/stanza ball joint is angled like the S13 ball joint, but bolts on with 3 big bolts, so I was able to make an adapter for it. Maybe I went over kill with it, but it gained me an inch of track width on each side up front while retaining the stick S13 suspension geometry. On the rears Im gaining track width as well because Im using infiniti M30 control arms, which are set up for a posititive FWD off set wheel, and they are also set up with the bigger diameter adjustable rear control arm off center bolts. Other than the bolts, the infiniti control arm,s are a bolt in. exact same dimensions as the S130 control arm, but they have bigger brakes and a diff E-brake set-up. Im pretty sure I can put Z32 rears on my car now as well. they will match the Z32 front brakes I have!

Im almost done putting S13 coilovers on my 1980 280ZX. the rears go in almost no problem except for turning down the OD of the top mounting hat and drilling the 280ZX 3 mounting bolts holes into it. rears are done. fronts are a bit trickier. Im using S13 front hubs, Z32 rotors and calipers, an 89 to 93 maxima front ball joint and the stock 280ZX TC rods, control arms and hopefully the outer tie rods on the steering rack if I can get enough adjustment out of them to use with the S13 spindles. I made a bolt on adapter to bolt the angled maxima ball joint to the 280ZX control arm and still bolt the 280ZX TC rods to the control arm in their stock locations as well. I really need to get some pics up as Ive been working on this little project off and for 2 years now.

turbulence is also needed to homogonize the air/fuel mixture. but on the other hand, there is this thing called stratified charge engines. google it.

running L24 rods?? something isnt right there.

does anyone have one for sale? Ive got a 1980 280ZX, but I have manual steering on it, so I dont know if that makes a difference clearance wise. lemme know! I need it in the next 2 weeks!

I run my high quench set up with a MN47 head, stock L28 flat top (which pop out of the bore about .005") and a fail-pro head gasket (although it has never failed on me in 30,000 miles of 11.5:1 hard driving.) which gives me a final piston to quench clearance of around .027". fail pros have a compressed height of .8mm or .032". On the grooves thing.... I can see how the turbulence they created as the piston came up to the head on a high quench/low clearance application would cause a lot of swirl and turbulence in a combustion chamber promoting a more complete and faster burn. On the screen note, there was acutallly a gasket kit you could buy for SBCs that had a screen or mesh type of material built INTO the intake mani-to-head gasket, right before the port. I cant remember who made it.

yup. megasquirt. then, if you are so inclined, you can also convert to a coil on plug design and get rid of your distributor!