Mack

so I was thinking about how I could solve the BE thickness issue without a lot of expense and heavy modification, and I think I came up with a solution.... please excuse the crude MS paint pic, but I think it would work. the only problem is that you would need a slightly longer rod bolt. Comments? criticisms? suggestions? IF Im out of line and this is a completely stupis idea, forgive me as Ive beeen up for 20 hours with about 3.5hrs of sleep, so it SEEMED like a good idea.

thats why Im looking for stuff I can "make work" for cheap. I mean, you get a set of 8 rods for $300!!! forged H beam and what not. With the ford rods, you could aslo get away with RB series pistons in an 88mm bore, which a lot of piston suppliers actually stock. probably looking at $500 for a set of those. with rings and pins.

I too have run into the same problem you are, Ive been thinking about forged rods and cheap pistons all week now. Ive found out that a honda K series piston (around $400 a set) in an 88mm bore with an SBF ford 347 stroker rod coming in at 5.4" long (and can be had on ebay in H beam forgings for around $300 a set) would be perfect for a regular old L28 block/LD28 crank stroker. The only problem is the BE width of the ford rod. .830" vs a nissan BE width of 1.04" IIRC. the BE diameter is almost spot on and you could bush the SE for the honda sized pin. But, how do you solve the BE width problem? I was amusing myself with the idea of running 6 thrust bearings for a suitable sized crank main bearing to keep the ford rods from sliding around too much on the nissan crank, but thats just a bad idea, I think.

Those are the models actual reactions, the drivers of all 3 cars are professional drifters and belong to another board I am a member of, the infamous ziptied.com. appearently, the models were actually FUN to hang out with! And all of the guys were impressed with the 370Z, even though 2 of the 3 were AUTOS!!!!!

Pizza guys unite! HA! It may be a ♥♥♥♥ job, but making $200 + wage a night for listening to my radio and cruising around aint bad. sounds likea fun little beater, and I bet it gets a bit better mileage than MY pizza machine, which is an '88 AUdi 80 quattro 5spd, although it does about 23 around town, not too shabby! The modifying bug still strikes with even the most mudane of daily transportation and when I found out that the 3.6L audi v8, rated at about 250/250 BOLTS UP to the stock 5 cyl trans...... well, lets just say Ive been scouring the upullit yards and finally found one, I only hope it lasts as long as next wednesday, when they have their monthly 50% off sale.....

Its not recommended, but it will work. I reused the stock bolts on my 11.5:1 motor and that was about 3 years and probably 30,000 miles ago. and I dont drive it nice.

the bellhousing is NOT the same, you can swap them out tho. the SR20 and KA24 trans are the same internally and have the same rear covers, but the bellhousing bolt patterns are different. I can get Z33 measurements by thursday, as I have a 6spd in my garage. EDIT: you could get either a 4spd or a 5spd on 280Z cars, it was an option, and in 1979, you could even still get a 4spd on the 280ZX. those 280sxs have the highly desireable 3.36 R200 gears.

I have a 240sx trans in my 280ZX. need to mod the L series front half of the case and also have to get a custom driveshaft, HOWEVER.... Im pretty sure if you got one out of a hard body pickup (with a KA24E for sure, maybe the later ones with the KA24DE, not sure) , the trans is the same length (prettymuch) as an L series gear box, also you wouldnt have to mod your driveshaft. ANd it uses the same style shifter as the earlier Z car transmissions. but then you are stuck with truck ratios, but Im sure you could put the SX ratios in the truck case if you were so inclined.

excuse my crappy MS paint skills, or lack there of, but could you do something like this and use these 4 bolt holes at the front of the tunnel?

screw the CA, get yourself an FJ. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112999&highlight=gazelle

CA18s are fun motors. I rode in a freinds tht had bigger injectors, S14 T25, 3" turbo back and boost was jumped up to 12lbs. It was in his 1989 S13 hatch. that thing put a smile on my face like you would not beleive. yeah, it lacked a little down low, but once you hit boost and 4000rpm, it moved like it had rockert boosters attached to the back. On a side note, Ive had both the SR20DE in a sentra SE-R and a CA18DE in a 1989 pulsar SE twincam, and honestly, I liked the Pulsar more. the SR wouyld rev, but you could tell it didnt like it, the CA on the other hand, just seemed to dare me to hold the pedal down longer.

http://mototuneusa.com/think_fast_intake_porting.htm have a read over that. interesting theory with some results to back it up. Dont know if it would apply to our old L6s or not. worth a read tho.

RB25 that beast!! should be easy, front sump on the l24e, right?

I wouldnt worry about the copper coating. Ive been running a felpro on my 280ZX flat top with an MN47 pushing around 11.5:1 compression for YEARS now and havent had any problems with it whatsoever. and this thing was a daily driver for me for a few years.

My bad, I must have completely missed that somehow! dammit. still sweet numbers.

bwahahhahhahahhhahaaa!!! no. those are nice numbers tho DevilZeto!! What sort of engine management are you running? sorry if it was posted and I missed it.

Im almost done with mine. ill get pics within the next few days. I used S14 stuff and I had to cut about 2.75" out of the lower mount because S14 rears are longer than S13 rears. the fronts are going on with S13 spindles/hubs and Z32 sloted rotors and calipers. bit of an upgrade from stock. I had to make an adapter for the ball joint and Im using early 90s maxima ball joints. long story. oh and Ill have to get a longer tie rod, but thats it. its all bolt in with no modding done to the car itself.

CA18DET. small, light compact and powerful.

If you are going to sleeve the block, get one of those LD blocks and start sleeving that. longer rods would be fun.

its actually on both blocks. the bore spacing is 96mm between 1&2, 2&3, 4&5, and 5&6 and 98mm between 3&4 2mm extra for the thrust bearing on the L6. on the KA, the bore spacing is 96mm between 1&2 and 3&4, and also 98mm between 2&3 for the thrust bearing also. so, if you were to use 2 chunks of 3, youd get 98mm in three spots instead of 1. the 98mm would end up between 2&3, 3&4 and 4&5. nothing would seal right, including the firing rings and the head would actually be too long.

mounts are mounts. Unless Mckinney re-does the entire CROSSMEMBER, then those are diff between S30 and S130 cars.

you know, i live in a state that doesnt give a rats ass about back fees, emissions or any of that other crap.

My offer for financial backing still stands, 280Zone. And many thanks to you Vinh for providing this part. If you really do want to sell it, let me know, I would gladly buy it off of you.

I had my suspicions that the metal was too thin on KA cams, as Ive seen quite a few KA cams in junkyards with snouts broken and yet the timing chain remains whole. Yeah, its been a while, hopefully Ill have mine running this summer. How long ago did you and I start working on that thing? like, 2004 was it? eh, way too long. If I had just stayed in PHX, itd be done, lol oh well.

that sucks man. sorry to hear. I guess Ill be buying all new chains for mine now. Thats not the first KA (head) Ive seen snap the snouts off of the cams. I wonder what it is about these motors (or head I guess) that makes them do that? any plans for further improvement "while youre in there"? You arent going to steal my cams now, are ya? HA ha!