Mack

I still dont understand why you would do this when you can get a maxima N47 and be done with it. O.K., so the compression ends up being about 11.5:1 with flat tops, but if you unshroud the valves and do a little clean up in the combustiuon chamber, you can get it down while improving the flow. Ask 1 fast Z, for the money its a good head. If street ported, it will flow quite well, even with the small intake valve. Its got high swirl, high QUENCH design (yeah, I said the Q word) and you wont need to play games with cam timing, cam tower shims or having 2mm shaved off the bottom of it.

If you want high compression, source a maxima N47 head. Its got a small chamber, and its a nice heart shaped combustion chamber with a high quench area. no need for all the cam tower shims or shaving the head .080". you may end up with a little TOO high compression, but if you plan on running a big cam, it shouldnt matter that much, as the big cam should lower the dynamic compression ratio a bit.

eh, well see what kind of shape they are in, but not much. enough for a 12 pack? I should be able to get them this weekend. truth be told, I was going to go the RB30DET route, but Im kind of dead set on the 1.5KA head thing.

I have a complete RB25DET block that broke a timing belt. some pistons have marks from where the piston-valve sex took place, others are clean. let me know if you want them, as I am going up to Fargo, where they are stored next weekend.

I never said offset grinding was a bad thing, I was just amazed at the fact they were selling what seemed to be a completely new crankshaft and forged pistons for $2000. I was thinking (wishfully) that the crank was a new forging with full counterweights. thats why I was so surprised, upon first glance.

WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!! Paeco makes a stroker kit and its only $2000 for a crankshaft AND forged pistons? According to their website, you get 3.2L with only a 1.5MM overbore and their crankshaft increases the stroke by .25" ? thats an 85MM stroke. Is that a fully counterweighted crankshaft? "Stroked Paecolloy crankshaft: The crankshaft is built to standard size journals with the hard nickel-chrome alloy and the stroke is increased to the appropriate length. The crank is then glasspeened to stress relieve it and balanced" that to me says its a custom crankshaft and is NOT merely offset ground. This is kind of big news........ Im going to have to look into this. EDIT: nevermind. just looked into this and called. they are stock crankshafts with the journals byuilt up using "submerged welding" then offset ground to give stroke, but all the journals are standard sized.

no welds, just cut out of a straight chunk of aluminum. This was essentially a mock up peice, made to check that all the geometries are in order before I make the final one. It is my understanding that very little weight is placed on the control arm, and that it is tension forces i should be concerned about as the control arm is merely there to keep the shock/hub in place laterally, and the tension rod is there to keep it in place fore and aft, is this correct? which would you recommend, 7075 or 2024? EDIT: I just checked, the alloy is 6061-t6.

no, the 240sx arms are 13" bolt to ball joint. the 280ZX arms are 14.5" measured along the same distance, and i needed to add an inch to the length of the stock 280ZX control arm.

so, Im putting 240sx coilovers on my 280zx and I had to build an adapter type thing so I could put a maxima/stanza ball joint on my stock 280ZX control arm to maintain porper suspension geometry, as the 240sx/maxima/stanza ball joint sits at about a 30 degree angle when compared to the control arm. where as the 280ZX is flat. Also, I needed to extend the ball joint to control arm bolt lenght by about 1" to maintain proper geometry. So, what I did was to make an adapter out of 6061 aluminum. Its 1" thick and I just tapped threads into it and Im using bolts that have full thread engagement. I bolt it to the stock ball joint mounting locations on the control arm and maintain the stock TC rod, then I bolt the maxima/stanza ball joint to the alumium peice. so, will this peice break? will it hold up? flame away if you want, just make it constructive, please! could I get away with using a stronger alloy? or would I be better off just making the same peice out of 1/2" thick steel? thanks!

actually, the SOHC is the head nissan chose to support with NISMO. if you look at the NASPORT GT3 series, the KA24E was puting down in excess of 250rwhp naturally aspirated. of cousre, that was with MASSIVE port work, custom crank and all that, and a set of 50mm mikunis. the reason for going with the KA24DE head as opposed to the E head (at least for me) was availability of camshafts that could be easily modified to fit VS. having one custom made. wouldnt the DOHC valvetrain be more stable than an SOHC valvetrain as the DOHC is direct acting and ditches the whole rocker arm assembly?

yeah, looks like I might just end up making the control arm out of solid, 1" thick aluminum. I think the stregth should be sufficient.

new control arms have to be about 15.5" from center of bushing to center of ball joint, where as stock control arms are about 14.5". so, the actual box part will be about 12 to 13". I may just go solid, as I do not know how strong the aluminum will or wont be. that was my main question.

Im going to drill all the bolt holes in a solid 1" thick peice of aluminum and then weld it on to the end of the box control arm. For the sway bar mount, I will weld a gussetted mount on the side for the arm. and the part where it mounts to the crossmember will just get a thick wall tube, the proper size for my new urethane bushings, welded to the other end of the box.

hey all, i have to make a custom front control arm to put S13 coils on my 280ZX, my question is, would 6061 aluminum in a 2.5" x 1.25" box with 1/8th inch thick walls be adequate in terms of strength? Or do I need to go with solid aluminum?

well, I jsut said screw it and went ahead and purchased one. so, I should be able to let everyone know by MSA!!! HA ha!

SO, Ive been reading up on them all over the web and what I can read on here that is L series specific, but the one thing I havent ran across is a freaking review!!!!! I read about how they are a bitch to install and all, but Im looking at the 90055 series, the SFI approved ones. ANyone running these? how are they performing? $155 is a pretty damn tempting price from MSA.

I was referring to the rumors about a mercedes or bmw head fitting on an L seires that have been floating around the Z car community for years.

well,the chain tensionser is oil pressure driven, right? the spring is just there to keep a little tension on the chain while starting up? so, once the car is running, you wont notice a chain tensionser spring missing because the oil pressure will be doing all the work. IF youve got the pan off, might as well pull hte front cover and make sure there is a spring in the tensioner. I always thought the oil pan was the biggest PITA in tremoving the front cover.

thats the route Im taking. I just got done bandsawing 2 KA covers yesterday, hope to have them welded, sanded and painted by next week! on the RB head issue, it would take as much, if not more modification to put an RB head on an L block as it would to make the 1.5KA24 head. I have an RB25DE engine in my possession (snapped timing belt, bent valves) and i still chose the KA route. also, the mercedes 280C is a no go. 2 inches shorter than an L series (bore spacing is too tight) and all the bimmer I6s have diff head bolt spacing and diff bore spacing. I spent years in pick a part type junkyards researching I6 engines when I ran across various engines and the KA method was the most viable alternative when I brought this project to 1 fast Z many moons ago, and still remains the best way to tackle a 24v head for the L6.

Ill stick to my VGT turbo. if I ever get the rest of the motor together.

ADD ME ADD ME ADD ME!!!! Ive got cash, paypal, cashiers check, money order whatever...... Ive wanted one of these for SOOOOOOOO long. any chance these would be done in time for MSA this year?? oh, and 280Zone, I can pick mine up, Ill be in phoenix a couple days before MSA. I say LEAVE the headlight recesses. individual owners could easily fill them in if they dont want them when they install them on thier car.

HA!!! it would be sealed on both sides (finished and unfinished) with some heavy duty multiple layers of clear coat. and Im interested Goldfish in that tool!

I had envisioned makming a multi peice dash out of several peices and joining them together using dovetails or biscuits as glue. then, sand off the rough edges to a final form. Kind of like building an octogon out of thin wooden peices? does that make sense?

yeah! thats not too shabby! except I was thinking of copying the original dashboards shape more. more like a rosewood copy of the original.

anyone ever made one for an S30 or an S130? just throwing it out there. might be interesting. I have a 280ZX and i was kind of thinking rosewood with silver (looking) metal inlaid where the different peices of it would be joined together(waround gauge pods and instrunment cluster) with a grant GT wooden steering wheel and a wooden gear shift knob. Ive got a blue and silver 2 tone interior. kind of make it into a bit of a GT car as opposed to a sports car.