Mack

this is my plan, and use ms3 with a cam/crank position sensor with as high of resolution as possible. with the solenoids acting just like regular old fuel injectors. the problem is finding some injectors with enough flow, a fast enough response time and low enough operation current so that MS3 can control them without some sort of relay board.

I bought one of these used from a friend and paid $500 for it. not a bad investment. I have used it to make an ITB flange and manifold so far. now all I need is a welder capable of welding aluminum and I will be set! oh, and lathe to. For cheap decent stuff, keep an eye on craigslist in your area, I see a lot of thing for sale on there pretty cheap from shops going out of business and whatnot. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-horsepower-heavy-duty-milling-drilling-machine-33686.html

I for one actually think the Juke R looks pretty damn good, considering what they had to work with. I would rock it. It would be fun to really mess with peoples heads riding in a car like that capable of 10s.

are the late model turbo ZXs really that much heavier than the older ZXs? I had my 1980 2+2 on some scales and with me, some tools and a cylinder head or 2 in it, it "tipped" the scales at 2960. It is by no means a stripper, either. I has power locks, windows and A/C, but no T-tops and it was converted to manual steering properly with a manual rack and had all the lines and pump removed. And a first gen 240Z with an L28ET block with an upgraded turbo and appropriate mods can be downright scary to drive.

Actually, my plan is to use the ford injectors as a valve, and still retain the pop injectors in the Mercedes head, if that makes any sense. I have heard the older mercedes diesels are real slugs, but the OM606s have been tuned to over 600rwhp, and many of them on stock blocks too!

I've got a new engine swap lined up for my 280zx, no its not a powerstroke, but I do have a few questions about the injectors.... What would the flow capability be without the injector tip on them? I don't think it matters which one it is, 6.0, 6.4, 7.3... also, would it be possible to operate them without the 3000psi oil pump part? Basically, I am looking at turning an IDI mercedes engine into an EFI IDI. I want to use the PSD injectors as fast acting valves, plumb them to a common rail for fuel feed coming from a hydraulic pump putting out around 2000psi and then hook up the out on each valve to the corresponding cylinders injector and run it with MS3 sequential injection, using the highest resolution crank/cam angle sensor MS3 can handle and tune it using TPS and MAF-a/f ratio tables. I think it could be done and you could pull some MAJOR power out of those OM606s without having to spend $3000 on a Myna pump.

I have a half finished ITB manifold using ford 300 I6 truck twin throttle bodies. They are 40mm (302 truck motors got 46mm, and 460 got over 50mm) diameter and have all sorts of nifty little ports for attaching vacuum lines and stuff built into them! My plan for the fuel injectors was to build a rail across the top of them and have the fuel spray directly down them, with a plenum built over them. I have been side tracked the past couple of years with buying a hou8se, building a garage, yadda yadda yadda, but now that my garage is done, I will have to jump back into the project! Thanks for the inspiration!

I have always been a fan of RBs in z32s. take lots of pics, that thing is going to be sweeeeeeet! I have had a sick dream of putting an RB in an old datsun 810/early maxima. I think you could really surprise the hell out of a LOT of people with something like that.

My mom has the same one on her 260Z. It came on there when she bought it. Needless to say it was one of the first things that went. Its not home made, well it still may be, but they sold more than one of them. It looks like a nightmare for fuel puddling and poor airflow with all the square edges on the box that the carb bolts to, not to mention the downward swoop of the macaroni elbow thing that bolts to the stock manifolds.

yeah, I have the kitted car and when my garage is done (before winter) I will be taking the car apart. The car its on is ROUGH. holes in the floor, fire under hood, typical NE rust. It was a new york car all its life. My plan is to make some molds before I install teh kit back onto my cali clean rust free 280ZX. The only problem is that both of these cars are 2+2. so, if I made reproductions, I would have to figure out a way to modify the rear overfenders and the door skins too. which, wouldnt be that hard. the hard part would be modifying the spoiler stays to acehive teh proper angle on a coupe vs a 2+2. Never fear, this project is not dead, only delayed. I should have listened to everyone when they told me how much work owning a house actually is! ha ha

Whoever told you not to use the P79 because of the round exhaust ports is just parroting old BAD information. The linered heads will flow just as well, if not better than the square port heads if you just clean up the bowl area with a dremel. It takes about 5 minutes to do. I've said this a few times in recent threads, as I feel this cylinder head gets overlooked a lot..... I would suggest a maxima N47 (referred to on this site as an MN47 quite often). They came on 81 to 84 maximas, have a smaller intake valve (helps low end torque), but a 39CC chamber. sitting on top of an F54 flat top block, this will produce 11.7:1 compression with a felpro head gasket, and it has a TON of quench. You can unshroud valves and open up the combustion chamber a bit if you don't want the compression THAT high. It is a linered head, but as I said, it really doesn't make that much difference unless you are going hog wild on the porting. I think it's a much better alternative to shaving and shimming a P79 or P90

I would say get a hold of an 81 to 84 maxima head. It has the smaller intake valves, but larger exhaust valves. The smaller intakes help with port velocity, thus increasing low end grunt. It also helps that the N47 head from the maximas has the same combustion chamber shape as the P79/P90, but the volume is only 39CC, so with an F54 flat top block, and a felpro, you get an instant 11.7:1 compression ratio. Its a little much for street use, but tunable with a nice EMS, like megasquirt! I have this head on an F54 non turbo block with a fel-pro head gasket and I'm running a 280ZX non EGR intake manifold that has had some work done to it. The big differences were the 60MM TB from a 240sx, and I also took all the inejector screw bumps out of the end of the runners. I also port matched the gasket to the head and did the same with the intake. ALthough the ports on the head are about 5mm bigger in diameter than the ports on the intake manifold, there were some spots that they did not line up properly and I fixed that with a dremel. I also ran a 260Z "C" stamp cam that is 256* from the factory (vs. all of the others at 240 or 248) and I am running megasquirt. the whole thing is backed by a 240sx transmission and a 3.9 LSD that I made using an infiniti M30 R200 and a z31 turbo rear. and its all running through a 2.5" mandrel bent where-the-cat-should-be back exhaust with a magnaflow 2.5" straight through muffler All of this made quite the difference, taking my 1980 280ZX 2+2 from a high 17/low 18sec car in stock form, to a low low 15 second car. 0 to 60 is somewhere in the low 7s, and I still get about 30mpg on the highway. I don't know if this set uyp could be replicated or improved with carbs, but I am in the porcess of installing a regrind from colt cams as well as a custom 40mm ITB intake manifold with 40mm runners and a nice header with I feel that with this set up I should break the 200rwhp barrier. I dyno'd once before megasquirt with a faulty e12-80 dist module, it wouldn't rev past about 4200rpm, but it got up to 141rwhp and looked to be still climbing. sorry for the novel, but thats my experience with all this block and head swapping mumbo jumbo.

Sell the E31 to a vintage racer and find yourself a maxima N47. anything made from 81 to 84 will work. Its a VERY nice closed chamber design, with a 39cc chamber. higher compression with a nice heart shaped, high quench chamber.

My vote goes for Bryan. I know him personally and have seen his work many times up close and personal. That L31DETT car is the scariest car I have ever ridden in. going sideways on 315R compound street slicks at 60mph when the trubos spool in 3rd. no clutch work, just stab the throttle and wait for boost to hit. thats not to mention his high 12s, full street weight with a stereo 280Z N/A car.

I hate to say it, but I am such an advocate.... this sounds like a job for Megasquirt. With all the futzing around you've done with the wiring harness and what not, you could have installed megasquirt and had it running by now. with that being said.... here is a complete write up on how to test, adjust and verify the afm is in good shape. AFM stuff oh and an easy way to check that the dist. is in the (approximate) right position is to pop the valve cover and remove spark plug #1, turn engine until both cam lobes are pointing up in a "V" shape, and put a pencil or smething else like a long screwdriver into the #1 spark plug hole and turn the crank VERY slowly until whatever yuou put in the spark plug hole stops moving up. then remove your dist cap and check the position of the rotor. That will also tell you if your cam timing could be off, as you can verify the marks on the cam gear.

I actually put S14s on my 280ZX. the fronts are the same, the rears, as mentioned, are a few inches longer. I just had the sleeve the shock/strut threads into cut down by about 4 to 5 inches and welded back together. I can try to get some pics, but it wont be for a week or 2. Work will resume on my 280ZX this winter, as I have finally built a suitable garage.

I am still a fan of a mercedes-benz om606.962. Its a DOHC 4valve/cylinder 3.0L I6. guys in europe are getting 550rwhp to 600rwhp WITHOUT doing anything to the internals. just a bigger turbo, better manifolds and a MYNA or similar built injection pump and you are good to go. add in a 88 300ZXT 5spd with a .711 5th gear and a 3.36 R200, and I bet 50mpg wouldnt be an issue at cruise. plus, its still indirect injected, so running biodiesel wouldnt be an issue. Ive got one tracked down, now all I need is the money to buy it! HA ha!

I forgot about this little set of gems I picked up last year. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90105-was-this-150-well-spent/page__p__854773__fromsearch__1#entry854773

So, I am researching clutches for my 1995 300zx twin turbo and I have been talking with southbend. they tell me for $525, I can get a clutch that holds 600lbs/ft of tq with thier TZ series clutch, but if I want to send my flywheel to them to re drill to a 350z pressure plate bolt pattern for $95 and a week turnaround time or $375 for their lightweight z32 flywheel with the 350z pattern, I can upgrade to a tzx pressure plate for $25 more dollars that will hold 720lbs/ft of tq with the same streetability. Now, I dont want to buy 2 clutches and eventually I will be installing bigger badder turbos in the near future. and A freind of mine wwill swap this clutch for me if I can get it by next wed, so sending my fw in is out of the question, as is $375 for their flywheel for budget reasons. will a stock 350z flywheel bolt onto a vg30dett and will the starter still engage and everything work as it should? EDIT: I ask this because I have a stock 350z dual mass flywheel lying around that I can use. I do not however, have my car torn apart to go check this out myself.

I think the bolts holding the clsd unit to the ring gear are bigger on the z31 unit. so, if you bolt it to the 280zx unit you will have to get a slweeve to go around the bolt to make up for the smaller diameter of the 280zx ring gear bolts. a bolt in option for a a 3.9 R200 is to get one out of an infiniti M30. It uses the same bigger diameter bolts as the later 300zx rear diffs with the clsd. This is the setup I am running in my 280zx and IIRCthe only modification I had to do was a bit of grinding on a casting on the underside of the M30 diff. took me 5 mins aith an angle grinder and it was a bolt in after that.

I would say an L28E with a late 280ZX 5spd. I had a turbo car with the borg warner and it was garbage. I did not like it AT ALL. To quote my English freind in reference to shifting gears..... It felt like waving a stick around in a bucket of mud looking for stones. L28E with a bump in compression, a mild street cam and megasquirt. oh, an TonyD those big 3800 v6 also have a ridiculious overdrive that puts them around 1700rpms at cruise, which they can do because of the torque they put out. My buddy was into fieros for a while ( an addiction he cured himself of, thank god) and when you put one of those 3800 series 2 drivetrains in the back of a fiero, you got sub 6 sec 0 to 60 and in some cases 40mpg on the highway.

As one that has a maxima headed F54 with flat tops, this is a good bet. I only dyno'd it once, and that was with a failing e1280 that wouldnt let it rev over 4500ish, and it would start breaking up around 4300. I wish I would have gotten the dyno sheet, because I was pulling 141rwhp @ 4100 rpm. this was with stock '80 EFI, MN47 head, 60mm TB, 2.5 where-the-cat-should-be back exhaust, 260Z "C" stamp cam and mild bowl work as well as taking the bumps out of the intake runners (non EGR manifold at that) at the end. After I put megasquirt on it, it picked up even more. It turned a 1980 2+2 into a low low 15sec car. so, yes, there is power to be had with that set-up.

It may not be "era correct", but I would say just to get yourself a maxima N47. smaller chambers and much more modern than an E31, and it already has the bigger exhaust valve. they can still be had for as little as $50.

hey scoutman! Did you leave the doorskins off on purpose? or did your kit just not come with any? It looks good, Im just curious. must make for some wind noise at highway speeds though! Your front end looks better than the one that came with my car. I think the smoked headlight covers really look nice. Is anyone here good with photochop? I'd like to see what a kaminari Z looks like with a G nose on it. it would either be awesome or overkill. I cant decide which yet! ha ha