~KnuckleDuster~

Why the change in direction? Just bored?

I think he means one with no damaged fins. Dislexica.

I've been spending my time sorting out all the vacuum issues I came across recently. My friend who dropped the motor in asked me if I wanted him to clean up all the unnecessary vac lines that were no longer needed and I said sure. Well he went a little to far and removed and blocked off some very important things. First there's a variable air intake control solenoid valve which is in place to open the butterfly valve in the intake manifold @ around 4700 rpm which aids in increasing low end torque. This valve was removed and the butterfly valve had direct vacuum which had it stuck open. Once I got the solenoid back in place the low end felt much better. Next the car seemed to be running rich and the idle would dive and make the car shutter a bit when coming to a stop and pressing the clutch in. Came to find the idle air control valve's vacuum source was blocked off. He most likely did this because the iacv requires it's air source from the air intake and I didn't have a vac port on it. I ordered a self sealing vac nipple to fit right into a silicone coupler. Had to order it from the UK..I didn't come across any US company's that made these unless I didn't look hard enough. Got the vac lines all attached and no more idle dip. Here's a pic of the vac port installed So now the car is running pretty danm smooth. The 3" exhaust with just a resonator was a bit too loud so I swapped the resonator out for a Jones Turbine muffler. Much deeper now and got rid of some of the excessive noise. Near future items will most likely be a 4 piston front brake kit..I've been putting off the brakes for too long now..and I want an ATI harmonic dampener. I can get the race model with none of the accessory belts needed. Should give me some increased response. On a side note I finally got around to buying a ground control adjustment wrench and I've raised my rear end up an inch or so. No more rubbing now and wheel gap is on point.

Nice! Thanks for doing all the leg work. I really like that white Datsun pickup with the skyline front.

Also know to protect the paint from rock chips and other foreign unidentified flying objects. I agree with you though it does look aero inspired. Maybe whoever made the part decided to make it look "racier" since it was going on a sports car. I'm with you Daniel, wouldn't go on my car!

I swapped my sending unit over from my L28 to the 25de.

Ok thanks Matt, that's what I was figuring.

I'm experiencing a low rpm drop when coming to a stop after pushing in the clutch. I noticed the vac tube on the iacv has been plugged. The fsm shows that vac line running to the air intake tube. I don't have the stock intake pipe so I can't have it like it shows so my question is can I tap into any other vac source or does it need to come off the intake?

Thanks!

Vitaloni baby turbo

Got the exhaust put back together, stayed with the old 3" crush bent so I wouldn't half to pay for a whole new set-up. It straight through with an 18" resonator and it's extremely loud. So loud I don't even want to drive it around. Sounds like I'm going 80mph when I'm only doing 30mph! I've got a small straight through 14" muffler on the way which hopefully will tone it down otherwise I may have to rethink the whole 3" idea. (edit: the exhaust was too loud due to some vac lines needing to be re routed and the ecu not being adjusted) The shift lever position was perfectly centered and I'm using a shift knob out of an old Datsun truck . Thread pitch is the same as the skyline and the white lettering flows well with the factory gauges and radio, nice stock appearance. I found this custom painted engine cover from a guy in Australia. It's made to look like carbon fiber weave and it's really hard to tell that it's not. I see black powder coated engine bits in my future..

You can buy mine, they're for the gunmetal wheels.

Got ol girl home today! Loud as hell with open header. Hoping to get the exhaust put back on next week. It's a weird feeling to get in the car turn it on and drive worry free. Tach isn't working yet as I need to have the resistor wired in still. R200. A 3.9 Ratio or higher is a must for an N/A set-up like this! Aluminum drive shaft ordered through Mckinney Shot of the Mckinney mounts, Pat1/Enjuku oil pan Here's a teaser shot for right now, just got her back home so I need to wash and tidy up some things under the hood. Fitment is great, the motor looks natural in there..

Hell yeah, plug and play. Engine bay looks a lot cleaner than my last RB in terms of wiring too. Can't thank you enough for the job you did, I highly recommend winstonusmc's services!

Motor is alive and sounding very healthy. R200 rear diff is in as well. Just going to be waiting on the drive shaft to be made then I'll be rolling! I'll update with pictures and hopefully a video soon.

Yeah it is, I expected it to be really tight and need some modification like my previous one but not be completely unusable.. At least I'll have decent start to a custom made one down the road with some nice equal length runners.

Got it now once I was able to lay eyes on it. Had to pull the motor back out, take the pan off and pop that plug out. Doh!

Well as bad luck would have it the header doesn't work at all. I figured since I got the last one to work this one should have been able to work too but there's just no way. The collector hits the trans bell housing. This is really demotivating and an extreme waste of money. I'll have to use the stock unit for now. I wonder what it would cost to have the header re-engineered and made to fit...sigh.

I need some clarification on relocating the dip stick to accommodate the rear sump pan. We removed the brass plug from the rear dipstick hole and the dipstick tube is slightly larger than this (rear) hole. I'm getting mixed information on this topic. Does this hole need to be drilled out and tapped or is it supposed to just swap right over? If it does need to be drilled and tapped wouldn't it be easier to get a reducer fitting and just re-adjust the fill lines on the stick? I've got the dang pan installed and motors in the car and somehow glossed over the whole dipstick relocation thing!