mamba_888

Since I live in Stockton, CA, I contacted Stockton wheel and they said they cannot widen alloy wheels.

I suspect fuel pressure. Make sure that the re-hose went ok! Leaks might be going undetected.

Just wanted to add that if you shave the head and/or block, then the you'll need to investigate if you need head spacers to pull on the slack bet. the head and the block. The chain tensioner may not be enough to compensate if you shave too much. Sorry, I don't have tolerance numbers off hand but I can get it for you if you needed it. Just my 2cents.

So I am seeing it correctly then. Thanx for the update. I did notice too that the IC is not in play here but apparently, he is still getting over 500hp on this setup! Hmm.... what to do, what to do... (with my current 240z project)!

Hello... First and foremost, I've done a search on this subject but could not find anything close (maybe my searching skills sux but that's another issue). I found R.E. Hanvey's link called the Datsun workshop and he has this phenomenal 240z with a carburated turbo setup! http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/datsun7.jpg In looking at the pix (links below), I can't really tell if he mounted the carb onto the air intake of the turbo compressor! http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/turbo1.jpg http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/turbocarb.jpg Is this true? Can one do this and use the compressor to ingest an air fuel mixture directly instead of just air? Am I seeing the setup correctly? I can't tell by the pictures so I ask you gurus to please educate me! Thanx.

No... thank you AE2ZX!!!! I for one, would like to say that you've inspired my soon to come conversion of my 72 240z to a 280zxt! Your perseverance shown on this thread proved to me that persistence and methodical build structures can bring the success to any comprehensive project. Thanx for journaling your steps for everyone to learn from. Enjoy the ride!!!

Hey, they are Recaros. The pics were so big and so long to load I didn't notice you had a shot of the headrest with the logo on it. Did you have to modify the rails too much? What model Recaros are they? Thanx for the info.

Nice job!!! Hey, everybody noticed the paint job and the rims but I noticed your seats!!! What are they? Recaros? I used to own a TRUE #157 Scarab and miss the car so much. They had Recaros with webbed headrest and been looking for them since. I anyone should want to aask how I could loose such a collector Scarab... it's the old divorce thingy.

You have to have a little more info to debug his problem. All cars have different harnesses that extend to the different circuits in the car (dash, rear wiper, power windows, etc). When you say there is no blinkers, hazard, etc, are you blinking externally (car signal in front/rear of bumpers works, etc). If not, then you're problem is bigger than expected. If they blink outside, then your instrument panel harness, harness connectors, relays, etc, is suspect. Have you disconnected any harnesses lately?

you can have a lot more control external wastegate psi's. Internal wastegates, your almost stuck with factory settings although a lot of users here @ hybrid has successfully tweaked their internal wg's. Search if you want to know how they did it.

The stock t3 on our 280zxt should be a good start although I've long since been educated by this site that this is an internal wastegate turbo. There are ways to convert this to an external as done by 240hoke. Here is his thread that has taught me a lot. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108785 The t3 should be small enough to spool up mildly.

I was thinking that. Thanx for the heads up. I will go ahead and try it.

I have a 1981 280zx Turbo. I removed my instrument cluster and replaced the speedometer from the 85mph max to the 130mph max (part is from a Canadian car). I replaced all the cables and connectors correctly that goes in the back of the instrument cluster circuit board. I put everything back and successfully see all the following: 1. the cluster lights up, 2. turn signals blink, hazards work 3. fuel gauge shows correct level 4. temp gauge shows correct temp 5. OK button cycles and when pushin check button, returns "OK"!!! 6. Tach is showing good RPM. So it looks good right... NOT! Here's where I need your help. Every so often, specially on a very hot day (don't know if that is the real symptom) the instrument cluster goes nuts and the following happens: 1. When turn signal is used to turn left, the right turn arrow blinks. 2. When turn signal is used to turn right, the left turn arrow blinks. 3. The fuel gauge is pegged to full (needle to right) instead of near empty. 4. The temp gauge is also pegged to VERY HOT (needle to right) which is also wrong. 5. The tach is jumping up and down when turn signals are being used! Seems like the polarity is reversed intermittently! PS. Signal lamps outside the car is normal and correct when using turn signals left or right. After a driving a while, the instrument gauge returns to normal! EEEK!!! HEEEEEEELP!!! GREMLINS on the loose!!! Any ideas, please? Thanx.

Do anyone of you have notes/ideas/threads that will point me to the easiest way to remove our Z unibody from the frame? I would like to do a frame off restoration and make sure I attack all places RUST can be. Thank you in advance.