mamba_888

Just saw one currently on eBay and here's the link. Hurry up! This can be snatched up very quickly. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__DATSUN-240Z-WING-SPOILER-IMSA-KAMM-EFFECT-3-PIECE_W0QQitemZ130243027015QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQddiZ2811QQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130243027015&_trkparms=39%3A1|65%3A10&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1318

Very nice indeed! A Porsche "turbo" emblem, JDM side mirrors, custom exhaust, molded front and rear end. The true meaning of a HybridZ! ...ooops did I forgot the "phenomenal" engine?? !!!! I LOVE IT!!!!

Wow. I am a pilot and have never realized that carburator icing was a big issue on cars too. We have a lever inside the cockpit that re-directs exhaust to the carbs when flying and we detect carb icing! Silly me, I guess I should not forget that they sold Z's in Maine, Minnesotta, Michigan, etc! Thanx for the update. I guess I thought that the whole balance tube was removed but really, they just button up some vacuum stuff. Thanx for clearing this up in my head.

brokebolt, you are correct again!! I see the passage pipe and it runs from the front to the end manifold halves and exits at the rear. Ok... more questions. Why do people remove the coolant fittings? What does the cooling passage do beside the obvious answer I think of that it cools the charge? I don't get the engineering behind this since it looks like the whole coolant path just slings past through the passages. Next question is that I read people block off the balance tube holes and not use a balance tube at all!! What is the thinking behind blocking them off. I know that the balance tube between the intake manifolds are spots for the brake booster hose, vacuum hoses, and PVC hoses to vent to and that blocking them only ruins the brake vacuum. Thanx again for allowing me to ask questions.

The round tops had no balance tube included when I picked them up. I'll have to find a 72 balance tube cuz I don't want to *cough* be smog burdened ! Also, you mentioned the water jackets and the round tops has a coolant line in the front carb, do I need to hook it up? I also don't see an outlet for the coolant line. Where does the water exit to if I hook up this water inlet line? The fuel rail I got looks really really good so I'll hook them up. Will do! I like the heat shield that I've already cleaned and made shiny! God bless, my friend!

Yes I did as a matter of fact. I picked up the SUs on Saturday down Fremont Street. Why? Did you sell me these ???

Brokebolt, thanks for the reply. This is exactly what I needed for advice! I also have a lot of searches going on @ classiczcars.com and have a loadful of info from it too.

Hello everyone... First and foremost, I have searched but found only a trickle of information on this so I am imploring for you SU gurus for help. I have just purchased a 1973 240z (for 970.00 and almost rustfree) and it has the flat tops. Now I now these flat tops are basically boat anchors and so I went ahead and shopped for round tops and, lo and behold, good ole' local craigslist found me one for $25 bux!!! I have a fairly good knowledge of the SU internals, how they work etc... and am doing pretty well dismantling and cleaning them up. I am confident that I will have a very good replacement once I'm done. I have checked the "clunking" sound and all's well with both front/rear carbs. My questions... (finally!). 1) Should I use the E88 intake that came with my rounds or should I just replace the flat top SU carbs using the original intake already in the engine and just mount the 2 roundtops to the original intake? I would rather keep the 1973 intake intact if possible but I'll leave it up to y'all to tell me otherwise. 2) The other sort of thing I gathered using search is that the fuel feed lines differ from the '73 to the '72 carbs. The round tops I got have the intakes but is missing some kinda part on top of the two runners that join some holes on top. The round tops also the original fuel rail (fuel lines). Should I swap these or use the ones already in the 1973 engine? 3) My $25 round tops came with the heat shield also and I know that this is what I would need to use to that the springs mount naturally on them. Would these shields bolt up correctly into the 1973? I also know about ztherapy and how good their products are but I just want to run my ride as is until I get the RB26DETT engine this one is getting sometime soon. Thanx in advance for your input.

Derek... Thanx for taking the time and granting my request by putting pictures of the A/C install in the engine bay. I'm sure a lot more than just me will benefit from all your hard work! You are a good man, sir!

Hey Spider... Do a search on R180 to R200 swap. Do it in the upper forums. This is really not the place for this question but I do understand you posting here because of your desire to put an RB into your Z. The R200 is built like a tank and have been used over and over with the high torque V8 swaps. If you're lucky, you might even find an LSD model that most of us want! So... of you go (Simon Cowell on American Idol) and let's get back to this wonderfully written journal of installing an RB thread!!!! PS... (a little humor) Hey "getoffmyinternet", my avatar looks like it wants to eat your avatar !!!

Well said, my friend. I was going to chime in but I waited until someone pointed out that porting is not as simple as it sounds. There is a lot of checks and balance that need to be put in place before our "engine" which is basically a big "air pump" (moving air in and out) becomes efficient to the max. I've been reading A LOT ABOUT HEAD PORTING and have been learning a lot about it. Things like "How the AIR wants to flow", the short side radius, where the air wants to "window", the length, angle and area of the port runners, port "biasing", valve shrouding, etc, to say the least. My only point is that opening up or polishing ports is more involved in itself alone. Opening up port may even cause drops in pressure in low rev situations due to slow filling up of the cylinders because of port velocity losses. Disclaimer: I AM JUST A LEARNING STUDENT of HEAD PORTING. I AM NOT PROFESSING TO BE AN EXPERT. I just want to share that THERE IS A LOT to be learned about this subject and I really want to get into doing it myself but lack the equipment most specially the "FLOW BENCH". I would also want to suggest that we have a totally separate "subject matter" on head work and porting. maybe in the "Engine Components" section of our forums. I don't know which administrator to approach so I can suggest this. I am sure, all of us will benefit in having a specific forum for all head work talk on our beloved L engines and who knows, we all could discover the max potential that can be had by sharing ideas. Thanx for reading.

If you noticed on the video, the guy laid down those orange half-balls . I think they are called valve stoppers and the sell them also for 3.50 in the purchase page. You're absolutely right about the valve going down to the cylinder when doing this in-car!!!

Hey y'all... Thought I'd share this to all of you. "A valve tool that will replace the valve springs and valve stem seals with the head on the engine or off". http://toyotool.com/ Check put the video at their site. Very interesting and quick tool. I wonder if it will work for the Z's

Cool. Looks like you've got the pulley problems solved. Honestly, I would love to see you successfully use a salvaged charger. It would be very invaluable to have this custom mounted by someone like you and documented for everyone else's benefit. There are tons of charger sources out there from MBZ to Toyota to Subarus, etc.... Please keep us posted! ...and you're right, maybe this should be on the turbo threads!!!

SHO-Z. Forgot to give you kudos on your project! I was wondering when someone will find the treasures lurking in discarded superchargers! This is a very common thing to do in other countries like Australia to salvage chargers for cheaply acquired forced induction! How/what are you going to adapt as to the pulley (which will give you your up/down psi). My other car is a MBZ c230 Kompressor but my wife will prob kill me if I take it out !!!

Well, let's not get too carried away with old school here. It seems that the points dizzy is easy to configure and troubleshoot but I do believe in the quickness of electronic ign dizzys! Just too short of a dwell on high revs to get maximum output on points type dizzys !! As for what type of Mikunis, I love them too but, heck they're hard to find. I'd stick to the Webers and maybe try and see if any of the power valves can be bored out for the forced induction setup. I've seen the power valves bored out on the Holley 650 carbs for more fuel on turbo applications but side drafts are just too much of a new beast. If anyone can figure the turbo configuration on triples with awesome fuel supply curves then, heck I'd turbo my trips in a heartbeat!

I'm with you on the trips!!! I also love the grunt, instead of the turbo whine (if you hear it at all). Trip webs/mikunis all the way !!!

BOTH !!! Seriously, I've had a 1977 Z and loved it but sold it. I've just recently purchased a 240Z. To me, I think the 240Z's are a lot sexier than the later models although a lot more rigid components (differential, engine, EFI, etc.) came with the 280z's. I like the location of the turn lights in the front of the 240 as opposed to the 280. I also like the rear brake lamps. I'd keep the 280 and save $1K from the 240z purchase. The $1K would go a long way into some awesome 280Z mods! Good luck.

Hey Scott... I too live in Lodi, Ca off Turner (and sure gets hot here)! I asked a question in Derek's installation thread on how to go about fabricating compressor mounts, condenser mounts, fans, etc. Maybe I could even come by and see how your doing yours (and if you need any help, I am more than willing!!). Otherwise, I would appreciate if you could post pics and documentation on the engine bay installs that you've done to get the Viking going.

Derek... What did you have to do to adapt the compressor into the engine? Was this a hard to do frabrication? I have no trouble with the under the dash work involved but it would sure be helpful if you would document the engine bay work you've done also! Engine bay pictures would be greatly appreciated too! Great work and great write up and thanx for making it easy for us wanting to do the same.

I would leave it out. I would rather you spend your time reading about the benefits of porting heads and making intake air flow in better. This is where all the action is most needed. Not just after the throttle valve. Even if you get the swirl going with this contraption, you still have the intake manifold turbulence to consider before you even get to the heads!!!

Hi Tom... The link below is a must read on selecting cams. I hope it helps you decide to release the HP monster lurking in your engine http://www.datsport.com/Racer_Brown_Menu.html

Should this thread be sent to our trusty FAQ section (like a sticky)?? I think so. Even if it hasn't been tested through time and heat, I think this still makes for a good start for having our dashes reasonably good looking! Just my 02 cents...

I live in Stockton, California about 50 miles south of Sacramento.

Hey you guys... I posted my 1981 280zx turbo (automatic) here at Hybrid for $500 dollars but no one wanted it!?!?!? Here is a pic http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13042&cat=500&ppuser=17522&sl=m It's a real steal.. an automatic tho... but the engine runs clean and idles fine. I bought it as a parts car in SAC and I'm selling it as a parts car. It runs great but definitely needs one of the Hybrid Z people to bring it back to it's greatness. Didn't have any responses from or classified ads but if anyone is still interested in this CALIFORNIA car... PM me!!! Buyer pays for shipping is any! I was putting the engine in a 240 but decided on a 383 instead.