m1noel

Got to talk to David on the phone Monday (Thank you so very much for you time and info). Really jealous that you guys are close enough to visit and meet in person. There are a lot of good things about being here in Idaho, just not Z related. Its a long way to anywhere from here. Mike

I used 3" stainless to a Y behind the tranny, into a magnaflow resonator, then 3" single into a Magnaflow muffler in the stock location. Definately not quiet under throttle but very quiet at idle. O2 sensors just after the collector and no rear O2's. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1978-280Z-with-05-GTO-LS2_92197.htm Old walkaround video with exhaust sounds. mike

Ditto's on the food and drinks. Did the same thing with the sending unit. Wish I wouldn't have done that. Mine was spraying pretty good all over the new paint and nice clean engine. Clive- Your new car is looking great! I've been watching your progress all along and you are doing great work-with some great help from your friends. Gee, can I type great one more time? Anyway, keep it up. Mike

I also had the same problem. Was tired of bugging John, and didn't want to wait for the shipping so I slotted the holes until all lined up. Two years later, still working great. Mike

I'd think that since you met the requirements when you did the swap, they would have a tough time making you go back and add that stuff. Hope they don't do that here in Idaho. Don't have any cats -not required on non-California cars in 78- and passes the sniffer test easily. Glad you got your issues worked out. Mike

Gotta love it! Nice job. Mike

It will fit better in the Z!

Oh God YES!

Mike, I'll try the heat gun again. I was focusing on the plug, maybe it'd work better on the area around the plug, that makes sense. Thanks. How long do you hold it on there for? 5-10 minutes? Probably more like 2 minutes seems to work for me. Mike

Try heating the area of the case around the plug. This always works with my RE. I use a heat gun. When the metal around the plug expands the plug comes right out. Mike

I have only autox'd mine once and taken to the drags once. I don't daily drive it (I use a truck for work), but I drive it daily if I possibly can. I would not hesitate to jump in it and drive it across country if I could. I drove it 1200 miles in one weekend last summer just because I had the opportunity. I have taken care of the car and performed regular maintainance for nearly 27 years now. It has all new wheel bearings, a good radiator/fan setup, and even working AC. Mike

I LIKE it. Don't think the wife will let me do it to her roadster though. Mike

I used the boot covers on my msd's after burning a set. The angle on the msd's are adjustable, but still had one or two problem wires untill I installed the covers from Summit. Mike

The aeromotive fpr has a supply line outlet and return outlet so you can use it with the stock rail, adjust the pressure, and run a return line. I bought my first one on ebay. It failed after just a few month's, and after ordering a new one from summit racing, found the first one was a knock-off. It even had "aeromotive" stamped on it but all the threads and hardware were different. Mike

Ya know I am kinda partial to yellow. But if I was to do mine again, and not paint it the stock color, I would do the 05 350Z yellow. It was a limited edition color with I believe only 1500 produced and it is a 3 stage pearl. Very pretty in the sunlight and would be extremely rare on an S30. Mike

Energy suspension has them in poly, $30 at Summit Racing, $45 if you prefer chrome. I wonder if they might hold up better.

Same ancient story, 30K will buy you a faster car!

I'd get a test light and a wiring diagram. The diagram the guy sells on ebay are great. Then just start tracking down your problems one by one. The ground connections in Z's are notorious for corrosion. If you need to, just replace wires or sections one at a time. And solder them, cover them with shrink tubing, don't use butt connectors. It will take some time but won't be expensive. Good luck, Mike

OK, I had this happen after having my L6 rebuilt many years ago. The key that keeps the gear on the crankshaft that drives the distributor and oil pump had been improperly installed and worked its way out, allowing that gear to turn slightly on the crank. Mike

you also might try Brokenkitty.com, and to my knowledge there is no other kit out there. And, there is nothing at all wrong with theirs. Mike

A couple of other things to consider- I am running 18X8's with 245/40 rears and 225/40 fronts. This is for street use. I kept my 15X8 1/2's for autoX if I start up again. I run 225/45's for the autoX. The rotating weight is much higher with the 18's. But I do like the look for the street, and they do fill up my fender wells pretty well. They do raise the ride height some, but this may not be a bad thing for the street. With the Tokico springs and the 18's, the rocker height is 7 1/2" behind the front wheel, which is about 3/4 to 1 inch higher than it would be with 195/60-14's (stock). This also raises my f-body LS oil pan about an inch. While the extra clearance is not needed for racing, the 18's give me a much improved speed bump/oil pan ratio. Also, for what it's worth, I haven't rolled the fender lips, and I run a 1/4" spacer in the front only because my center caps are not deep enough to clear the dust covers. Mike

:)Good to know. Looks like you made great progress though. Keep it up. Mike

I have the T1R's in 18". Fronts are 225's, Rears 245's. They have a lot of stick for a street tire, and seem to be holding up pretty well. And they are much quieter on the interstates than my old tires. So I am pretty happy with them. Mike