piston

IMO, you should have gone with the factory 350z wheels. Or even the double spoke star g35 wheels that I have not seen anyone have on their Z. http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/4803/carparts109hd9.jpg

You are talking about the back only right? Because you can not drill out the front, I'd recommend shipping out the rears to Ross at Modernmotorsports.

My 74 260z had 240z left rear and 280z right rear or visa versa. But on the ground, There was not really a big difference somehow. It came like that from the factory. Have you actually comapare the two springs to see if it is actually different in length? Its been a while since i did mine, but I know for sure the strut housings are different height, with a raised up spring perch on the 280z.

SWEEET.

Pretty sweet.

I just did my panels and dash with Dupli color vinyl spray and it cam out pretty good.

Yes the harness runs in between the top plenum and manifold. I'm doing the same one out of an 93 sc300. Harness all done, deleted 50% of extra wires i didn't need. Before you do any deleting, plan ahead and think carefully before you pull/delete you wire. the Lexus wire harness is wrap so good from the factory that it seriously took 2 hours or so to unloom it. Yes, pull motor and trans together.

Got my flanges couple weekends ago. They are top notch quality. I was very impress by the way it turned out. In fact, it looks nicer than the pic above posted by tomahawk. New flange is pressed on then tig welded, that's why it take more compare to ordering the billet ones already ready go.

Are you sure that's not carbon fiber undercoating?

Man...a r154 is plenty for 500-550hp. Going gm auto is just overkill for a 400-500hp daily driver. plenty of false info like grit mentioned. This thread reminds me of when I first started and got all happy and had big hp dreams which soon became useless on the street in a s30 chassis. Everyone will tell you different things about their favorite engine and why you should swap their favorite engine into your car. Seriously, search and read not just on hybrid and make decisions for yourself. There's no better motor over another motor here on hybridz. If you ask me, I will tell you the 2jz is the best motor and parts everywhere in the states. But that's just me.

Wow, that is super stretched.

The paint code is KAD. I personally thinks it's a bit flashy in the sunlight and a bit too modern. It has a lot of metallic flakes sparking in the sunlight. Now i come to look at it, I should of went with a Mica color paint job with one size flake instead of metallic with a bunch of different size flake. Anyhow it does look sick ass hell in light or no light. Not moving yet so still no outside pic's. I for sure will post and update pics when I get it moving or put back together completely.

Sick ass car. I would put a tubular protection bar in front of the bottom radiator just in case something on the road flies that way unexpectedly? Eventually that car will eat almost anything coming its way anyways. Bad ass car and fabrication skills.

i guess 240sx before i even opened the thread...

you will have fun toying him on the roads but he will leave you on the freeway or on a roll. my old lt1 was nice and fast from point a to point b. real nice and quick throttle response. reacts on a dime. but it wasn't enough for me on the high end. just my opinion. its not that hard of a swap. from my experience, i think everything was pretty easy until i came across the alternator wiring. that was a bit challenging for some reason. go with a 6spd or at least a manual trans if you like to pick your own gears on corners or different speeds. if your going in a straight line, auto is probably for you.

here are my wheels after repair shop refinished them. i dont have any before pics but the curb rashes were horrible and lips had no shine what so ever with a dead alloy color. thankfully the previous owner paid for everything so i have no idea how much it costs.

thanks john. i knew somewhere i saw the six inch gap rule in one of your nhra rules. im short, thats why mine is 2" more forward compare to others. everyone views it from their point of sitting down but they dont think about the short ass owner(me). lol. hoov100, im not trying to be a smart ass but your a bit over reacting over this ROLL cage for side impact reasons. the ROLL cage is for unexpected ROLL over's. in case you ROLL over, it helps keep the top from caving in. not if someone hits you from the side with a suv. the chances of a suv jumping out the side of a race track is 1 in a million. if anyone t-bones you in a z at high speeds on regular belts, i dont care what you say, your head is bashing through the side windows. again, that is what door bars are for. think about an off road jeep or truck. the hoop is there to protect the roof from fully caving in, but the roll bar/cage sits really crappy. again, the cheapo JEGS cage is NHRA approve if weld to their specs. im 5.6" 160 pounds, that gives me a better chance compare to the other 80% of bigger/taller guys using the same cage.

if im reading your post correctly, your getting lips from HRE to put on your hayashi meshies? are they not two different companies? hayashi is japanese while HRE is ??? by the time you have someone make you lips or find some lips, the price of the wheels are going to go up a bit, maybe out of the price range for what they are worth.

i think tim on here ran the 3.54 shortnose with the .82ar exhaust and says its a bit laggy for him. im not sure what his setup is exactly but i would think 3.54 is a good boost gearing if not, maybe even lower for more room to build boost. just my thought.

does it go into gear with the car off? i mean, shift into all gears? if it only has issue with 1 and 3 then you might have issues with the shift fork or linkage because those two gears ride along the same shift linkage and forks. a bent fork or defect linkage will cause it to either jump out of gear or not go into gear or even grind (not a full throw due to bent fork). you mention you have movement? which gear was this in? if it moves in 2nd gear normally then its not your clutch pedal free play (hydraulic). i personally took two of these apart and put it back together at school for learning purposes. if it starts with pedal all the way down in gear, your clutch is running free which means your pedal free play is alright. listen to it closely to when it engages and disengage in any working gears. you should have at least 1 or 1 1/2" of free play on the pedal before engaging. has the transmission been rebuild? also like mention above, make sure the shifter is correct as in bottom shifter ball actually sitting in bushing, bushing sitting in correct location of linkage with ball and detent. there are so many t5's out there, i found one on our donor t5 had the wrong shifter and will not make it fully into gear and pop back out as soon as you try to spin the front shaft. this just means if your shifter is incorrect and does not have the right length, if will not fully go into gear. but this will happen in all gears. hopefully this helped a bit.

for a budget, i personally think the drift motion kit is the way to go. the t60-t67 they have should be plenty on the street. plus garett internals unlike ebay specials. capable of 500hp+ with the right fuel setup and tunning. my buddy installed one on his partners 1jz supra and says its the best kit for the price. get a smaller .58ar exhaust if your too worried about lagging. i want to run the .82ar exhaust and hopefully its not too big or to small. alot of the members on supraforums seems to run that size with no complaint. my buddy's been building supras for some time and has 3 late model tt supra's and also says .82ar is the best size he had run for his street supra. dont forget about rear gear ratio's.

im doing the the swap from the 93 sc300 in mine w/ r154 trans. on the harness issue, if you take a look at supramania or google, you will find a ge ecu printout for a gs300, its very similar or should i say exactly the same. only one i have ever found. it shows the basic wires you will need to run the engine. if your smogging, keep everything. if your keeping your factory gauges, wires are seperate anyways. so just tap in your gauges and it should work. understand the harness and wire in a relay. there is more to it but its a start.

yep!!! my shoulders and arms sit right along the line if any a bit more inwards. 1 1/2 inch gap in the pic above. i doubt another inch outward will make that big of a difference.

everyone that see's my hoop says its too far up and i should have it sit back 1-2 inches from the dome light thingy. i sit up closer to the steering wheel and if i put the hoop in the lower roof area and further back away from my head area. i didn't like the idea of the hoop a whole foot back away from my head if there was to be an accident and leaving plenty of area for the roof to cave in where my head actually sits.

lol. i didnt realize you had 16's.