piston

Sweet. Those are the same mounts that I am using. Are you using full solid or hydraulic? Because you can get those from Napa Auto in either one. If you are using hydraulic, make sure you mock it up with the trans on. I made that mistake and when I bolted the transmission on, the weight dropped the original position by 3/8 throwing off my angles. I ended up switching over to the solid ones and that took care of my problems.

I have not yet seen a fiber part that fits perfect with no mods. I still thinks its a smoking deal at that price even if it needs modding to make it fit perfect. That's just me though.

older supra 7m r154 will work if you mount the engine back as far as you can. mine sits only about one inch and half forward from original shifter.

Maybe a set of stiffer springs so it wont squat too low under hard launches?

haha, Looks like fun. I have all mine out also and I gotta admit these bearings add up super fast in retail pricing. Why don't you just order the nut online?

It all really depends on your wheels and spoke designs. I have 15x8.5 simmons -19 and do not need spacers due the the spoke design curving out and back in. Most wheels however have a straighter design spoke and will need spacers especially smaller 15" wheels. The factory studs are pretty short also and rule of thumb is you wanna make sure your lug nut grips at least 5-6 threads to be safe.

If you want to grease them, make sure you grease them until your grease pushes out the old grease out the seal. Most u-jounts come ready to be installed and pregreased. You will want to grease it later, Not fresh out the box. Never mix grease together.

bling bling.

Match exhaust flow with how much your air your engine drawing in.

"While engine balance does play SOME into the need for good mounting, it's more about the power output of the engine, and the weight." correct...

What I'm saying is that a v motor has 2 banks with pistons moving in different directions away from each other as to inline is centered, only moving up and down. No left right left right going on here, more balanced, less movement. IMO, vehicle weight transfer is the most common cause of twisting forces especially in these uni body chassis.

Sick build. Looks like you have a lot of work put into the suspension and fab. Exhaust clearance? I'm diggin your welds. Keep it up and make sure this thing gets up and running on the streets. Should be one sick fast Z.

Is the hood real carbon fiber or vinyl? either way, it looks good!

Damn, that is a pretty sick looking setup you got there. Nice and clean...Not to familiar with sr20's but is .82a/r exhaust a bit on the lagg side for the sr? 1jz will take some time to spool that sucker.

By the way, the markings on the cross member and steering rack in the center of the first pic is where the center of the original crank bolt is lined up. It is however offset towards passenger between 5/8" and 3/4" inch and that's the location of the 2jz crank bolt. Everyone has different point of views on the Z chassis. Some say the way you have it, it will flex the frame. Others say, no it wont because it is only about 5-7 inches away from the factory cross member which ties them together for strength which does kinda make sense too. IMO, you better be laying down some hardcore HP's because every car I heard twisting frames lays down high HP's. I'm really curious is there even a thread regarding a Datsun Z with twisted front fame rails besides failing due to rust issues?

I have seen a good amount of cars on the dyno 3 ft away and strap down dyno myself some pretty decent hp rwd vehicles. I know it toss and wants to turn per shift and wot. Just very curious on how much force and stress the mounts itself is actually taking being said the inline 6 is a pretty balanced motor. But I get the picture. The factory mount is not a straight bolt through the rubber instead it is two bolt/stud design molded into the rubber for better cushion so the rubber itself, cushions the pull on wot or first response. Meaning with a straight bolt through a plain rubber mount like some have used or like above, it will definitely pull and put most of the stress on the fabricated mounts itself on full boost or WOT since the cushion is no longer there. I hope this makes sense because I can't find the exact words to explain it. #1. Think about it like this. two individual bolts, one bolt glued to the other by the rubber(middle section), when pulled on 1st bolt, the rubber absorbs the pull so 2nd bolt wont take a direct yank. #2. Now with a straight through bolt(single), with rubber in the middle surrounding bolt, your fab mount takes a direct yank when engine jumps because your engine brackets are bolted directly to your fabricated mounts that are welded to the frame. Chances are your frame is not going to bend first, but your fabricated mount will if they are not strong enough. I'm in your boat though Livin9it2up1. I agree that it is a budget build and it's all an experience. I don't see a problem with it being n/a and just cruising around, however stomping on it with boost in future is a bit risky. I shouldn't even be talking since mine is not even running yet. lol here's what mine ended up looking like after being chewed up by plenty on here.

I was also shocked when I saw how hybridmotorsports(above yellow pic) did their motor mount. I was a bit concern about it failing on them but then when I really think about it, all the power is delivered out the back, not the sides of the engine, since the side mounts just holds it from rocking side to side. I would think the rear end and the tranny mount will take most of the beating. But I went ahead and over killed my mount anyways.

You measured it right in the center of the frame rails for the crank bolt? It's actually offset a bit to the passenger side about 3/4" inches if I recall.

From experience with my old 95 lt1 280z. I used cheapy ebay block hugger headers. I havent seen anyone here using anything else beside block hugger style headers like the Sanderson JTR ones. I'm out of the lt1 scene so maybe something new has come up. The only decent picture I have left showing a bit of the header.

Sweet. I never thought of making the FFIM with thin steel sheet metal. Does it run yet?

Nice....I need to hurry up with my swap and get it running at least so we can roll out on a cruise someday. I did it the long way though. Strip it all apart and redoing it from scratch and want to run the bone stock n/a 2jz first to see how suspension and everything works out first before trying to lay down 450-500hp.

Nice interior. Hows the sound? I am thinking about leaving it bare like how you have yours.

Damn, that car comes to life at night! Nice selection on the color.

I don't see why it wouldn't work. I don't think valve covers hit 300 plus. I never had any problem with a painted valve cover before. However I don't keep my cars for more than 2 years. Try hitting it with a temp gun to see what the temp is to get an idea.

Not bad. I really like how your hood came out. There is this new clear coat run filler that 3m makes but I am not suer where to get it. Its a 2 part epoxy that you mix, similar to bondo. Lay it lightly over the run like glaze and when it dries, you wet sand it down slightly with 800 grit so the run will go down evenly as you sand. If you sand it normally, it all goes down together and the run is always there.