piston

I am using .355 spacers for my vented 4x4 swap. This is the least problem I thought I would come across. I am looking for the hub spacer bolts with the correct thread and shoulder. I am having a problem with standard fully threaded 10x1.25mm bolts because the shoulder on original bolts helps guide the rotors and hubs to a true center. Where are you guys finding your correct bolts? I went to local hardware stores and can not find the correct size anywhere. When I do find the correct length, they do not have the shoulder required. Now my rotors are moving up and down as they turn, on the jack stands of course.

I think I just figured it out.

Sketch, I e-mailed you about the resistor you took out behind the z tach to make the factory toyota signal rpm work on your 1jz. Never got a replied!

The only cross mount made to sell I know is from Betamotorsports. Also, you might want to consider in the brackets also. Not sure if the 1jz has different brackets like the 2jz does but depending on the chassis is has different engine brackets. It'll sure suck to order one and have wrong brackets not knowing which ones he used to fab the cross member.

What axles are you running? I'm using z31 and my left side binds when suspension is off the ground. Lots of resistance and hard to turn. Right side turns normal. I'm using the MM flange z31 to 280z splines. Drain your fluid and inspect the oil.

You want to keep it in the original position because the bleeder screws are set up so the air bubbles will bleed properly. Remember air rises up...

Without camber plates or any kind of camber correction, your wheels will negative camber allowing a bit of extra tire width. That's how the VIP guys do it!

In other words, the bolt thread pitch is m10x1.25 @ 30mm length.

Rayyapp, you are correct, like I say, angle is angle, sideways or what ever position as long as you have that slight 3 degree. Your method you explained up there was exactly how I did mine. You just explained it shorter and made more sense. lol My output shaft is mounted 2 inches higher than the diff flange with both parallel to the frame rails/ground. On the tail shaft point offset could be correct also because I seriously notice my diff is pointed towards the right pass side a bit. Looks like Nissan might have used the left and right angle method to achieve their degree needed. My old Datsun service manual also shows the bottom pic of a 73 and the diff is offset towards passenger in the pic printed.

Your angles can by as good as it is but if your trans is sitting way up and diff is way low, that will throw the angles off the u-joint. I suck at explaining! Put a pvc pipe(imitating drive line) from tail to diff flange and hold it in place. Put the angle finder on the trans output shaft and measure the angle of the trans, then measure the angle of the pipe. Subtract the two and see what the number you have left over is your degree. Do the same for the diff. 3 degrees is 3 degrees, just make sure when measuring each end and subtract from the drive line angle, you get 3-4 degree left over each end. Hopefully you can raise or lower your diff or trans to correct angle needed. Hope this helps. The laser thing just points at each other and I wouldn't count on it to find correct angles.

By the way, you dont want the tailshaft and diff flange pointing directly at each other as you will have 0 degree and your u-joint wont have the 3degree needed for the ujoint caps to roll around so the needle bearings inside the ujoint can rotate and work properly.

I did mine by leveling the chassis as flat as possible to ground. Measure the tail shaft center end from ground to shaft. Then measure the r200 flange the same way from ground to center. Place your magnetic angle finder http://thorvie.com/supplies/Angle_Finder.JPG from auto part store or hardware store on the tail shaft and diff flange and make sure the two have an angle of 90degree...this means they are both parallel to the ground. Example... from ground to center tail shaft I had 12" height.. From ground to diff center flange, I had 9.5" height. with a slight angle going downward from tail shaft to diff center flange because of the height difference(2.5")! I got a cheap 1" pvc pipe from home depot and cut it to drive line length and put it on the ground and raise one end to 2.5" for the height difference of the two measurements. Place the angle finder on center pvc pipe and found my 3 degree. You might wanna go a bit more on your degree since load will change the angle but all my mounts are solid so wasn't an issue for me. Hope this helps out or at least give you an idea.

way too sexy...

I personally would not even use that stuff. Any extra fluid not plugging your leak will throw the tire off balance when rotating. And yes, any can will build pressure and blow up. Seen an energy drink do this.

I agree with kurai. 500hp does not mean its gonna be use in every corner. Don't let anyone talk you into keeping lower hp's. Build what you want! Heres a couple of sites i found on 2jz wiring if you are still searching for wiring info. I foundit very useful for me when i did my ecu pinout delete. http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41954 http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm The wiring is actually easier than it sounds. I knocked out 40% of my harness and it looks neat.

Housing t3 or t4 makes no difference as long as you match it with the flange you have. Twin scroll or single! I would prefer a t4 flange just because more options for bigger hp turbo's comes with a t4 flange. Same a/r specs on either housing would do the same on damage. t3 t67 .82 exhaust .70 intake. t4 with same a/r specs makes same performance.

Honestly, there is no simple way to do this swap and it requires patience and a lot of searching, that's what everyone else does.

panasports are worth way more than the enkies IMO. I wouldnt trade it however it depends on you. I understand wheels get boring sometimes and just want something new myself sometimes.

I'm guessing people don't like to say much because everyone has their own opinions and someone always has something to say on others opinions. That's why I no longer make threads. Keep us posted, even though noone is replying, we are definitely looking forward for updates.

lol, primer in black? anyways, yea, if your looking for flat black anyways, I recommend dupli color. I used them often and it lays down pretty decent. Just do light coats at a time.

Where do you live? how did you find a 1jz in the junkyard?

Thers really no need to complain to them because that's the only molds they have and like some mention above, from knock offs to knock offs, it starts to change shape. All it requires is drill your holes first, hold up the fender, mark your holes, drill, then put them on. I got mine from zcarparts and it needed a bit of flex to work. The best way I found and seen other members do it on here is line the two top holes up with the body line, then flex the edges inwards towards the wheel well curves. These sat 1 inch away from wheel well before flex, it actually sticks out a bit more and give it a better stance after flex.

r200 are everywhere in junk yards. If its only for drift purposes, I would just go grab one from the junk yard and weld that sucker. However, It can be done. You can use the internals on the longnose, but you will still have to keep the 6 bolt flange axles so either way, it still gets really pricey because then, you have to get custom axles etc. Your better off with the mordernmotorsports q45 mount kit to begin with if that is what you really want. Someone has a wright up on r200 short internals into longnose on the z31 website. Too bad I don't have the link.

I'll go with John C, and say it is going to be a problem. Looks like the wear pattern shows it runs right on the line with the chipped edge. If it's not a lsd unit, I would just go dig another one out of the junk yard as a whole.

I'll give you 30.00? That is a smokin deal. I would have thrown a 12pack on top of that.