piston

Miles, did you reinstall the check valves into your wilwood? Keep us inform. I am doing my install tomorrow and would hate to take off the mc again to reinstall the check valves if I have crappy pedal feel. I am in my 3rd mc. 2 of the 15/16 280zx and now going wilwood 1" mc. 15/16 are just not holding pressure for me for some reason even rebuild units from local auto parts stores.

Havent been on here in a while. The hood clearance is perfect. Does not have any issue, mounts are Ford F150 v8 of some sort, I don't recall exact year. It's running super strong at 10psi, even stronger at 13-14psi. Got the map2 ecu but having issue tuning KVF maf. super sensitive and hard to tune compare to map base sensors. It runs good on the safc but I would like to eliminate Maf and control timing with the map2 ecu. more vids to come.

I am using the tach wire that leads to the factory gauge from the 2jz and tap that wire into my light blue wire on 280z tach. I did not remove anything or any resistor from the tach. It is pretty accurate with the apexi safc readings so I'll go ahead and say it works!!!

I just came accross this on craigslist. Don't know if you guys already seen these on the market because I haven't seen anyone with them personally. I think the 16x8 zero offset will look so slick. I'm not a fan of copy wheels but these are really tempting. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/ptd/2958454790.html

I think he's selling the car? Thought I saw it on craigslist for sale a few months back.

My filler holds. But I didn't use much so my layers are very thin.

Is it just me or these offset sounds a bit extreme for a wheel this spec to be tucked nicely under factory fenders?

I guess MM does not modify the original flange with the weld on z31 flange anymore?

You will hear many different things from many different people. IMO the factory 240z tach is the one you will probably want to keep for your car if it has the original 240z engine. It is made to read that tach signal off the original engine. Aftermarket tach is not always accurate as some people may think. I don't think a aftermarket tach that can read 4,6,8 cylinder is any better compare to the factory oem tachometer. Factory tachs are design to pick up and display the most accurate rpm possible for the engines installed in that chassis.

Mine actually came with the original tie down bracket piece bolted on there when I got it. It is also the same spot for the skinny bumper mounts if I'm correct. But if you are planning to shave it, all of the holes can be patched off and will not effect your rear structure. if anything, I would think stiffer and stronger.

Some new pics on the street. I really like this shot on top. Installed the grill and shaved my skinny bumper. Will be shaving my rear bumper and paint/install this weekend. Here you can see a slight different in color compare the fender and the door. it was sprayed at different times with different batch of paint mixed by the same person who mixed me my paint. No metallic is always identical when mixed at different times and especially sprayed at different time laying down in different position, however the other side is dead on, lol. Hood is also off color a tiny bit but not that noticeable because of the curve the hood has.

Did another pull, this time I minus the air flow a bit by -2 on the safc under boost because the s-afc was fighting the factory ecu and ecu rich out at wot. Still a bit rich in the 10.5/10.8 afr. But tachometer works and shifts like a champ. 4th red lines and dials in 130-133mph assuming tach is accurate. All this time, I forgot I had a 3.54 ratio differential and thought I had a 3.90.

Yep, open diff.

That's what is throwing me off is the cross shaft. I cant see through it like my 3.54 r200 open diff where you can look through the cv splines and see out the other side. This one is huge and I cant see through it because the cross shaft blocks it. It spins in the same direction but I'm guessing its because it has no load on it?

Cool, Thanks guys. It was given to me so I was curious since I was not able to find much info on Exterra r200 diffs. I will open it up and see whats good besides the gears for some. Also, are the centers fully closed like the above where the spiders are not visible?

I have an r200 differential with 4.62 ratio was told from a Nissan Exterra(never knew that). I was wondering if anyone can identify the lsd these differentials have? I haven't looked too much into the diff itself but it's dead on r200 longnose material. I open the cover to take a couple of pics. Was not able to find much info on google. Both axle splines turns in the same direction but it looks like no other lsd I seen before. I was hoping to take off the ring and pinion and use my 3.54 in it along with the lsd and hope the z31 axles are a direct fit. Looks like a 29 spline count but I made only one count. I will have to look further unless someone can confirm it fits. I confirmed the ratio and is a 4.625 37 ring and 8 pinion. The 4.62 ratio sounds killer for autocross, drift or maybe even drag racing. So keep an eye out once it's out, may be up for grabs. let me know what you guys know about this differential? Thanks.

Looking at the picture of my unpainted hood makes me glad it's done with. I spent every weekend both Sat and Sun hammering, bondo, sanding over and over for 3 weekends. At least 20 different mixes of bondo total. It's hard work, but it pays off if your dedicated. Did you guys realize I painted in the backyard with nothing covering at 12pm in the afternoon! LOL Work fast and make sure it's right the first time. I got one tiny bug in it but it was sandable. Devil_s30, I don't have any pics of the projector mod since I didn't think I was really going to keep the look. Definitely too flashy for an old school look. What I did was buy a pair of Ebay cheapy headlights with clear glass and cut the back out so the projector housing will go in(the black round piece that holds the projector lense). Glue the housing in and install it back onto the lamp retainer ring. Next, cut as much as you can from the headlight adjustment housing(the one where the original wire runs through) in the back to clear the projector itself. That way you can still retain the stock adjustment screws to aim your new projector headlights. Hope that helps.

Sometimes, it's just nice to see a plain stock form Z! Reminds me of my first Z! yellow and beautiful.

The last time I did my cage, like 1 yr ago, I thought drag cages had to be extended back pass the struts? Not that I'm going to drag or try and pass tech inspection, just curious. I have the Jegs in mine, not much different from yours.

It"s Nissan GTR code is KAD if I recall.

bre style spoiler install and hid. Lexus RX330 HID projectors. Fair cutoff line.

Flares from zcarparts. Their parts has a lot of scratches and nicks on them lately that I have been receiving. But it is not a ready to go on part so its ok.

Camerashy, It would be nice if it was a skyline. It's my older bro's 73 Datsun 510. It's got a ka-t setup with a fully build bottom end. Garvice, thanks, working hard these past couple of days to get her done and hopefully register and on the road by March. Not much left besides bumpers and hood.

Here's mine. First time in this section of the forum. lol

Latest pics I took of the Z. Trying to get the hood painted but the rainb outside is ruining my weekend work plans.