grumpyvette

WAIT! get a 350, youll kick your self forever if you settle for a 305, 350s are everywhere if you look long enough, btw your smart looking for whole donor cars, Ive picked up quite a few over the years for next to nothing because the bodys were rusted or minor accident dammage, so keep looking, maybe youll even find a truck with a 427-454 and have a real project on your hands or at least a good engine to swap for a 350 plus $$$

jt1 "but you probably have tuning issues too." thats fact!! jap tin "You need a looser converter. " good suggestion! Mike C "If I were you, I'd start by getting the Cyberdyne (Summit or Nordskog, same thing $29 plus a $20 parts store sensor) Air fuel ratio gauge and installing an o2 sensor. You just can't read plugs in an unleaded motor the same way you can a leaded gas engine" VERY GOOD SUGGESTION ! zfan "The problem with gears around 4.11's is in the 1/4 I will be huffing before crossing the line. I do not really want to go to o.d." look here http://www.esbconsult.com.au/ogden/locost/gearcalc.htm ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE IS FREE SOFTWARE,USE IT! youll want to cross the finish line at about 117-118mph turning about 6300rpm

torque is from cylinder pressure x cylinder volume x number of power strokes per minute and depend to a great extent on VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY , the torkerII intake works nowhere near as well as the performer RPM intake , and you problem is not really a lack of torque its a lack of torque in the rpm range you need it in, now you can get a higher# gear ratio rear gear that will allow you to multiply torque faster and stay in your sweet spot rpm range more offten or you can lower the rpm range itself, your choice, but changing the cam (the one you have is fine) will make the engine loose power, so first choice in your case is swapping to a higher # rear gear like a 4.11 ratio would be the best choice but a swap to a PERFORMER RPM intake(WITH NO SPACERS) will move that torque curve down enough in the rpm range to improve things noticeably while only giveing up about 10-15 hp on the high rpm because the big drop from first gear to second gear in that 700r4 is leaveing you a flat spot. (don,t go spending big bucks used performer RPM intakes go for $50-$80 on ebay, if you really want to kick butt try the rear gear first then add the dual plane intake ONLY IF YOU NEED IT> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1825662665&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1825627908&r=0&t=0 Ive posted this before but read it again, ever wonder why your engines torque curve gets higher with the engines rpm level untill about 4000rpm-5500rpm(DEPENDING ON YOUR COMBO) but fades above that rpm level? well it depends on several factors, first as long as the cylinders can fill completely you get a good fuel/air burn so you get a good cylinder pressure curve against the piston each time the cylinder fires,THE ENGINES TORQUE CURVE INCREASES WITH THE NUMBER OF EFFECTIVE POWER STROKES PER SECOND, at very low speeds theres not enough air velocity to mix the fuel correctly or produce a effective ram tuneing effect but as the rpms increase the cylinders fill very efficiently untill the rpms reach a point where the cylinders just don,t have the time necessary to flow enough air through the valves to fill the cylinders , remember a 5000rpm the intake valve out of 720 degs in each cycle opens for about 250degs of effective flow even with a hot roller cam, now thats only about 35% of the time and theres 41.6 intake strokes per second , thats only 1/60th of a second for air to flow into the cylinder, I found this graph that shows the relationship between V.E.(VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY) and AN ENGINEs torque CURVE http://www.n2performance.com/lectures/lect1/n2perf5.gif WHAT THAT GRAPH SHOWS RATHER EFFECTIVELY is that its your engines ability to fill the cylinders that increases your power and the more efficiently you do that the higher the rpm level you can acomplish that at the more power your engine makes, remember the formula for hp is (torque x rpm/ 5252=hp)so moveing the torque curve higher in the rpm range increases hp

----------------------------------------------------------------chevy combos---------------- http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7610/dyno.htm http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos.html http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m0BUW/12_39/58045957/print.jhtml just combos http://www.camaros.net/racing/BBCombo.html http://www.chevelles.com/racing/SBCombo.html http://www.skunk.net/boatengines-496.htm

heres some carb tuneing info, some of it is just for Q-JETS, some for HOLLEY SAVE THE LINKS http://www.dapa.org/frazier.htm http://www.dapa.org/tech/jhand09141999.htm http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/tech/carbtool.html http://www.buickperformance.com/qjet.html http://www.dorianyeager.com/indexquad.html http://www.dorianyeager.com/carb.html http://www.dorianyeager.com/cccqjetdiagram.html http://www.dorianyeager.com/qjetprimaryrods.html http://www.dorianyeager.com/TablePics/qjetsecondaryrods.jpg http://www.dorianyeager.com/ccctuning.html http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/perftune.html http://www.shockley.net/holley-jets.asp http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html

the q-jet can be tuned to work very well if your interested in saveing some money and we really need more info about the car,gearing,transmission,cylinder heads, cam, and intended rpm range and what your goals are before a good intake choice can be made correctly

http://www.dyno-flo.com/complete_engines.htm

pparaska that test was swapping a performer RPM for a victor JR at the track, but the #300-36 holley intake is a good one. lots of the early Z28 guys said the #300-36 worked better than the factory Z28 intake.BUT THE GUYS HERE ARE CORRECT THERES NOT ALOT TO BE GAINED BY SWAPPING TO THE HOLLEY INTAKE FROM THE EDELBROCK RPM. BTW picking the correct intakes not that hard, just look at your cam specs and average rpm durring a 1/4 mile race, if your cam has 230 or more degs of durration and you spend most of your time with the average engine rpms above 4500rpm you will almost always be better of with a victor style intake , if your average rpm range is below 4500rpm and your cam has less than 220 degs of durration you will almost always be better off with the performer RPM intake. of course engine displacement has an effect here too, a 283 will still like the dual plane RPM style at rpms that would choke a 406s hp potential

this is well worth the time to read guys http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm

the lt4 spring part # 12551483 1.32 dia. 101-lb seat/332lb average pressure installed at 1.78 height is a very good spring as long as the cam lift stays at about .525 or less. but the springs that comp cams,crane,erson, sell are better quality in the higher lift range springs, if you stay at or bellow .525 lift youll be ok if the machine shop clearances your heads correctly.

SPEEDOMOTIVE IS WELL KNOWN for good prices but the quality of the assembly has on occasion been somewhat less than perfect,and CAREFULLY CHECK THE PARTS LIST, 2 bolt block cast pistons no ballance job UNLESS THE FLYWHEEL/DAMPER are also purchased cheap cast rings, not moly faced cheap stock rods what your getting is a basic 383 with iron eagle heads and a cam upgrade not a bad deal for the price but not the killer racing engine you might think your getting either. THESE ARE ACTUALLY BETTER DEALS http://www.jonbarrett.com/383.php3 http://www.dallasexportsales.com/383sb.html http://www.built4speed.com/

call and ask! but yes in most cases they fit and work fine,(use the digital meter to determine what type injectors you have,they do not work if the high impeadance are swapped for low impeadance styles) btw the ford injectors are just BOSCH STYLE INJECTORS LOOK HERE http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=31075&prmenbr=76 http://www.jegs.com/footnotes/accel_fuel_injectors.html OR HERE http://www.tpis.com/ has these High impedance injectors (14-16 ohms) are found on most production vehicles. We have found high impedance injectors, that are available on a special order basis, that flow over 50 lbs per hour. Low impedance injectors (2-6 ohms) are typically found in racing and require a different computer such as a Motec.We spend a lot of phone time trying to help customers who have been talked into large injectors. Call us first! 300-510 350 High Impedance, #1987-1988, 19lbs/hr, 38HP/cyl........$56.95 300-511 Custom, High Impedance, #91, 23lbs/hr, 46HP/cyl........$61.95 300-512 Custom, High Impedance, #115, 27lbs/hr, 54HP/cyl........$67.95 300-513 Custom, Low Impedance, #125, 30lbs/hr, 61HP/cyl........$67.95 300-514 Custom, Low Impedance, #155, 37lbs/hr, 64HP/cyl........$71.95 300-515 Custom, Low Impedance, #175, 40lbs/hr, 78HP/cyl........$71.95 300-516 Custom, Low Impedance, 44lbs/hr, 88HP/cyl........$75.00 300-517 Custom, Low Impedance, 51lbs/hr, 102HP/cyl........$71.95

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1823711968&r=0&t=0

get out your digital volt meter , set it to ohms and test accross the two electrical contacts on the injector it should read between 14-17 ohms if it does you can use the injectors. if it reads substantually higher or lower your probably not going to be able to use them (below 12 or above 20 ohms)

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/4l80e.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/th350.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/th400.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/th700r4.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/th2004r.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/muncie.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/richmond.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/borg.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/powerglide.html http://www.4racecars.com/calculators/rpm_calculator.html http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp

(1) 26deg versus 36 degs total timing, you will be atlease 50 hp/ft lbs lower on hp/tq than you could be if your timeing were correct. (2)look here http://www.compcams.com/catalog/347.html part numbers #4900,#4909 if you dont have the correct tools lay a strait edge like a metal ruler accross the bore on its edge so it wont bend and measure the distance from the top edge of the ruler to the top of the flat edge of the piston at TDC, subtract the thicknes of the ruler and you should have your distance down the bore (3) oil pan floor to pickup clearance should be 3/8"minimum to 1/2" maximum

Im useing 30#lb injectors in my 383 roller engine and they work much better than the 24 lb injectors that cam in the car,the ECU controls the pulse width so yes go for it!heres how to figure the correct size for your engine. http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/calc/fuel_injector.cfm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/TchArtcl/Artcl07.html http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/fuelinjectors.cfm

if you get all sensors,the wireing harness,ecu,and the manifold and all other parts the swap to any standard 23 deg sbc engine is fairly simple. ;)but be aware the standard TPI intake while great for torque and mileage in the idle to 4500 rpm range the air flow falls of a cliff as far as flow and hp potential go above that rpm level.

don,t feel up to doing the work yourself http://www.dallasexportsales.com/383sb.html http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6314&prmenbr=76 http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/ (Super Victor #2925 ) total less than $5000

Tim240Z I did it(swapped to crane 1.6 self aligning roller rockers)one of my vettes, a 92 LT1 vette, I needed to remove the drippers that are inside the valve covers, and the valve spring clearance was right on the minimum possiable with almost no extra clearance but still just possiable to get away with. it required very careful measurement and I would not advise it unless your willing to check each and every valve spring and retainer for clearance problems, but yes it can be done! BUT I WOULD STRONGLY ADVISE THE .050 HIGHER CLEARANCE VALVE LOCKS/RETAINERS CRANE SELLS. http://www.cranecams.com/master/vsretain.htm#Titanium%20Valve%20Spring%20Retainers

thats totally true! you can,t easily change the programing on the RAMJET! look here,a far better option(about 1/5 of the way down the page, the holley stealth ram efi) http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/WhatsNew/WhatsNew.html the new HOLLEY STEALTH RAM IS TOTALLY LAP TOP PROGRAMABLE, and makes much more hp, comes with several fuel air maps and on-line help or DOUG(one of HOLLEYS ENGINEERS is available for questions over at CHEVYTALKs EFI forum) the chevy ramjet's 350hp sells for about $5000 delivered,add a new cam ETC and your still stuck crappy heads and a stock shortblock with about 380-400hp for about $5300-$5500. http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=463 you can easily build a 383 with AFR or CANFIELD aluminum heads and a HOLLEY STEALTH RAM for about $6000 useing a forged crank ETC. (A HUGE LEAP FORWARD IN QUALITY and POTENTIAL HP.,easily in the 450hp range with careful parts shopping)

Valve Adjustment The Quick Way: Ok, now to the good stuff! First, view this little chart for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it ... for other engines, use your firing order that matches your engine to do the same. You set up this procedure based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below) Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF! with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF! If you have noticed, this is the same procedure as the intake valves listed above, just that you are now adjusting the exhaust valves the same way. with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve Need an explanation? Well, what you have here is "opposite" valves on the engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. 1 - 6 8 - 5 4 - 7 3 - 2 If the lifter is anywhere other than on the heal of the cam where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect lash. The chart above makes sure you are on the backside of the cam lobe. When the cylinder is at TDC, this is not often the correct location to get the proper lash setting. http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm#Engine%20

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html remember vortec heads are meant to produce good low and mid range torque NOT HIGH RPM HP if you want over 400hp-420hp your better off with bigger port,better flowing heads I just went through this for the 10 zillionth time replaceing springs and machineing the guides so I could install a .545 lift cam on a hydrolic lifter, vortec head 383 for someone, so you guys might also use the info there are several things that effect the max lift your heads/springs/retainers can handle other than (spring bind) look at the diagram here. http://www.cranecams.com/master/vsprings.htm .read this ,a spring that will be a drop in fit for vortec heads!! Comp Cams # 983-16 and retainer # 751-16. the new Ovate wire springs by Comp Cams (the ones above) have 105 lbs. seat preasure and a rate of 410 lbs which is close to the Z-28 spring good for up to .550 lift. http://www.hotrodheaven.com/comments/messages/9058.html now with cheap springs its usually the spring coils stacking up and (binding) that limits the amount the valve can be opened but the bottom of the retainer hitting the top of the valve seals/valve guide comes in as a close second in the race to cause clearance problems so you must check that too! just adding the better springs that are normally rated at either .540, .575, .600 will give you more clearance but in most cases Ive measured the retainer /seal clearance will limit you to about .500-.510 if your just changeing the springs, and yes it is possiable to gain some clearance by useing special .050 higher notch valve locks that move the ratainers alittle higher on the valve stem but if you want to do it correctly and don,t have the measureing equip. just take the heads down to your local high performance cylinder head rebuilder and have him machine the valve guides for the .600 lift clearance and have him use these valve seal,(Hi-Performance Teflon Seals) (Machining Required) read this http://www.cranecams.com/master/vmisc.htm and this http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar79842.htm these fast burn heads are ported so don,t think the flow numbers are valid, the production heads flow worse un-ported http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Fast_Burn_Cylinder_Heads.html

yes, longer pushrods will most likely be needed,but you wont know for sure till you use a push rod length checker, and thats one of the reasons I said I would match the longer set of valves MYSELF rather than shim the springs and get them to work that way. ITS almost always better to do it correctly than to figure a way to make it work,(INCORRECTLY) http://www.compcams.com/catalog/278.html http://www.compcams.com/catalog/277.html