grumpyvette

why play with a sbc, http://www.wsu.edu/~426hemi/ (CADDYWAGEN INSTRUCTION MANUAL) heres a step by step instruction list on installind a rear engine 500cid caddy in a VW.

look closely at the pictures, the engines are the same in both pictures and those are not DART HEADS, it looks like those pictures were taken in the guys home garage, notice the milk crate and old tire in the back ground and the cheap non-comercial grade engine stand, I could be wrong but over the years If gotten a feeling for scams, I thick what you would get here (if you get anything before the guy changes phone #s and adresses) is a $800 pet boys or discount auto rebuilt core long block with a $46 dollar chrome timeing cover,valve covers, a $100 intake and a $59 oil pan for your $1800 and a set of $800 dart heads for an additional $1100, PASS,DO NOT DEAL WITH SOMEONE YOU HAVE LITTLE OR NO POSSIABLE RECOURSE AGAINST IF THEY SCREW YOU! look here,your basic engines http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_start&catid=123 your higher performance engines http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_start&catid=120 you can build, or buy a better combo for less money, trust me on that

looks like the guys answered most of your questions already, you will easily eliminate that fill tube by useing a newer style intake manifold, which one you should buy will depend on the other parts and rpm range you want to build the engine for.if you have the cylinder head casting numbers that will help identify them.btw why are you playing with cars with a cute girl like that to play with as an option?

if your looking for a good running cam for a 327- 350 daily driver with a few more hp than stock but still pass emissions and works with all the stock parts, may I sugguest the , http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114132&B1=Display+Card

I don,t show that listed but ERSON TECH #775-882-1622 (extn 327)

the xe294 is even to large a durration for the iron eagle heads in a 350cid engine , drop back to a xe274 youll be much happier or at least a 282s like Mike C sugguested(both good choices) the 294xe will kill that engines torque curve, even if you get the IRON EAGLES you will still need to do the port and bowl clean-up but the IRON EAGLES come with screw in studs ans better springs, and clearanced for at least a .540 lift.

Kevin Shasteen good post,BTW you might want to look at this stroker 454/496 build,youll have over 600hp/ft lbs with thr AFR heads which flow about the same as the ported merlin heads in the article and a similar engine build and all at under 6000rpm too on pump gas!!! and you don,t need to go for (all) the expensive parts to make it work either. http://www.skunk.net/boatengines-496.htm heres the DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO SOFTWARE http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html (bottom of the page) heres the other math calc formulas formulas to play with http://www.performancesimulations.com/transmission.htm http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp http://www.prestage.com/carmath/ need some other question answered, heres how to get it. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm http://www.convertalot.com/meelinks.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://epics.aps.anl.gov/asd/me/FilmPressureDrop.html http://users.erols.com/jeepfan/tirerpmratio.htm http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_ETMPH.asp http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_HP_fromETandWeight.asp http://www.turbofast.com.au/Drag.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html http://members.aol.com/fastnuf1/calc.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/TchArtcl/Artcl07.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page4/effarea/effarea.html

I build more bbc engines than sbc engines so I know something about them, your goal of 500hp is fairly easy to reach with most good flowing heads, look here, (1)you could reach your goal with bigger valves and porting on your presant heads but it would be far easier with the 305cc afr heads, http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html If I was trying for your goal of 500hp just the 305cc AFR heads (un-ported) and a good cam, headers and a good flowing intake should get you there,If you call CRANE and AFR and get their input I think youll be pleasently surprised. (3)as to the CANFIELDS they work fine they are just not well known, and don,t advertize much.BRODIX and DART both advertize much more and give package deals (combos of heads, valve covers and intakes) so they get more sales but from what Ive seen a good EDELBROCK intake and the AFR heads is the way to go now. (2)because your car is so light and has a resonablely low rear gear I think you would be better off getting the small rectangle heads, while its true the ovals will get you to your goal too, the light car will have no trouble at all with the slightly lower, low end torque and higher mid range the small rectangle heads will provide, you will have a hard time keeping ANY STREET TYPE TIRE FROM SPINNING (after all excessive tire smoke will not do you any good) and if your going to the track with slicks, just launching a few hundred rpm higher will get you the torque differance. (5)the pro-stock heads tend to be huge oval ports , about the same size as the standard rectangle ports but remember they are designed for 8000rpm and .800 lift cams and are shaped totally different than stock heads.and they are designed for well over 1000hp (4) Ive used several rectangle port dart heads but not the oval ports so I can,t answer that. CALL AFR AND CRANE, THEY WILL BE GLAD TO HELP YOU! http://www.airflowresearch.com/ http://www.cranecams.com/

http://www.partscavengers.com/details.asp?prodID=589

Doug Miller is correct But I don,t build 406 cid engines with stock parts anyway, SCAT MAKES A INTERNALLY BALLANCE ,6" ROD 3.75" STROKE ROTATEING ASSEMBLY WITH 4340 FORGED CRANK THAT WORKS WITH THE 350 INTERNAL BALLANCE DAMPER AND FLEX-PLATE.

several people around here prefer the weiand 300-36 dual plain intake to the edelbrock rpm , Ive found them to be about equal and dependent on the cam as to which will run better.yes they will increase low and mid-range torque over a victor style intake but they also give up a little hp over 5500 rpm.

(1) no an engine does not HAVE to have 8:1 compression to work with a super charger but it will work much better that way, what a super charger does is cram more fuel air mix into the cylinders than can normally fit at standard atmospheric pressures , to get the most efficientcy you need a lower standard compression ratio to allow room for the extra volume of fuel air mix to effectively fill the chamber. here play with this, youll see what Im talking about, http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcomp.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html try to figure a 8.5 dynamic cpr under 10 lbs of boost youll see why you need a static compression around 7-8:1 (2)4 bolt maim caps have greater strength holding the crank in the block, this is especially helpfull on supercharged engines (3)most are 2 bolt but there are exceptions 10125327...350...92-up...2 or 4...Gen.II LT-1, reverse flow cooling 10125327...350...96-up...2 or 4...Gen.II LT-4, reverse flow cooling

getting 400hp to the pavements not hard its affording the parts!!! 400 to the pavement means about 480-500 hp at the flywheel. look here at combos #93 and #102 (BTW BUILDING A 383 will make getting to 500hp easier)look at combos #16,#17,#71 http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/afr2.html the key to 500 hp in a 350 is great flowing heads, a roller cam of about 230-250 durration @.050 lift, and matching the other parts to your intended use and rpm range. or cheating a little and useing nitrous (much cheaper, but your only superman while the bottles full)or adding a supercharger,add an 871 supercharger to a well built 350 with a matching cam and a set of these heads will easily get you 500plus hp http://www.procylinderheads.com/cast_iron_main.htm prt# 223 2600 35 A (Iron Lightning Series) http://www.superchargerusa.com/chevy_bk_street.htm

well first let me point out speed costs money and your not likely to have an engine that stays together very long with cheap parts, but that said, http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/calc/fuel_injector.cfm if you play with this youll see you need about 40 lb injectors to pull 550 hp(42lb would be better).(BTW the HOLLEY STEALTH RAM IS GOING TO BE A BIG HELP as it flows much better than the other efi intakes) the formula for potential hp from air flow is (.257 x flow at max cam lift x 8= potential hp.) so your going to need a MINIMUM OF 275cfm of flow at your cam lift to pull 550hp (and the lower the lift and durration that 275cfm can be reached at the more likely the engines rpm and torque levels can be easily met with reasonable cost rotateing parts. that means you better be looking at heads that flow around an advertized 300-320 cfm intake port flow. heres a few http://www.procylinderheads.com/223260035A.htm AFR 210cc SBC Racing Cylinder Head The Most Powerful Standard Racing Head Available These reasonably priced AFR 210cc intake port small block Chevy angle plug cylinder heads are available in three stages of performance. The Race Ready version features 70% CNC ported intakes while the higher flowing Competition version features 100% CNC ported intakes. Both come with 100% CNC ported 76cc combustion chambers and 80cc exhaust ports with a 3/4” thick head deck (ideal for nitrous or blower applications). In addition we also offer the “as cast” Stage 1 heads for 210cc performance on a budget. Standard valves are 2.080 intake and 1.600 exhaust with AFR’s hardened ductile iron interlocking valve seats. The exceptional flow characteristics, 23º valve angle, and standard valve spacing make this the perfect head for 350 to 400 cid engines in bracket drag cars, sportsman oval trackers, and highly modified street class cars operating between 3000 and 7500 rpm (higher rpm ranges possible depending on combination of parts).The 210cc heads are available in either standard or spread port exhaust. Straight plug versions and down nozzle provisions are special order only. No special parts are required. the larger your displacement the easier the hp will be to achieve.and your going to need a forged crank, rods,(6")forged pistons to turn the rpms and handle the pressures that 550 plus hp in a 383 will require long term and nitrous will sure help also!!

It would depend on your goals for the car and engine of course but the 383/stealth ram is what I have in my (play with it) vette and I have two other vettes with LT1 engines that are only slightly modifyed, the earlier sbc V-8s have way more parts available for them)

I dont know one normal guy that does not like to looking at a great looking semi- dressed young ladies next to his car! and personally 2 great looking young ladies are even better ,or maybe 3 or is it four,...get that stupid car out of here and make room for more semi- dressed young ladies!!!!!!!!! here look around in this site for awhile http://www.corvettebabes.com/cvet_th.htm now how many of you can remember what options the cars had..........yeh right ..you lying$#^%^%$%^&

look here, your forgetting the 4L80e transmission, its more than twice as strong as any OEM G.M. manual trans or the 700r4, it has an overdrive and salvage yards have them available http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/ratio.html http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html http://fteufert1.home.att.net/trans/t-length.htm http://www.transtec.com/specific_trans/4l80e.htm

silicone boy "I'm a plastic surgeon specializing in breast surgery " sounds like a lot more fun than building engines!!! building your own set of double (d) cups sure must be a satisfying way to spend an afternoon , compared to grinding clearances for stroker crankshafts and degreeing in cams BTW 40v8now BUILD A 406 out of that 400 block,use flat top pistons,ARP main studs,a milodon windage screen, 6" (h) beam rods with 7/16" bolts,and if you can afford it install a set of 210cc AFR heads and a CRANE # 118551 solid roller cam,edelbrock #2925 victor intake, 750 holley carb 1 3/4" headers and a 4.11 rear gear with a 3500 stall tq converter in the th400 transmission , and a 250 hp nitrous plate under the carb, slicks a good roll cage and go kick almost everyones butt.

get a copy of the new june 2002 car craft mag, they have an intersting 540 hp/383 build-up for about $5000

heres a chart showing how far the piston moves per deg of rotation of the crank, http://www.iskycams.com/ncrank1.PDF and heres the pressure curve per deg chart http://www.geocities.com/ljaya6390/analysis.htm notice the pressure peaks at 10 degs past tdc and stays high for about 20 degs, compare that to the other chart with the piston movement down the cylinder, notice almost all the usefull pressure is between 10degs after tdc and 30degs after tdc and that the piston move away from tdc slightly slower with the longer rod allowing a slightly longer effective use of that pressure. what Im trying to get accross here is that larger bore piston dia. allow more piston surface area for the cylinder pressure to act upon and that longer rods and strokes allow a more effective use of that pressure durring the 20 or so degs that the pressure peaks but shorter strokes allow more power strokes per minute that in some combos more than make up for the lower efficiency by the sheer number of extra less efficient power strokes so a ballance within the engines rpm stress limits must be made and the higher the cylinder pressure and the longer the leverage arm the crank has and the faster you spin it the more torque is available to produce hp

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ill grant you that I over simplifyed formula greatly so as to not confuze most of the readers (some of which know even more than I do Ill also grant you) but the cylinder pressure is applied over the surface area of the piston but only applies its peak force for about the first 18-23 degs of crankshaft rotation,If we compare a 383 (4.03 bore/3.75" stroke) to a 377(4.155 bore/3.48 stroke) sbc, the longer stroke allows that 18-23 degs of rotation to be applied over a longer distance with more leverage, a 4.155" bore would have 13.56 sq inches of surface area per piston, thats an approximate 7.7% increase in surface area for the pressure to work against for the 18 to 23 degs of rotation durring that peak force period,now the shorter stroke crank covers less distance durring its effective pressure peak,(lets say 20 degs as opposed to 21 degs for a 383 with its longer 3.75" stroke)thats one of the reasons big bores and small strokes work well for racing, not only do larger bores apply more force(although for a shorter distance )they also allow more strokes per minute for any given max piston speed,they allow a greater volume of fuel/air mix to be burned in relation to the cylinders surface area and the have a smaller ratio of pisrton ring surface area in relation to the pistons total top surface where the pressure is applied,(I started to do the math but after 2 pages worth I said ,no ones going to follow this anyway) the formula for hp is (torque x rpm / 5252= hp) that basically reflects the that torque is cylinder pressure during the power stroke times the number of strokes per minute times the leverage(stroke) now if we take a 4000fps max piston speed for both engines and 1000psi cylinder pressure for both engines we find that the 383 has a 6400rpm max piston speed (3200 power strokes) a 12.7sq inch piston area and a 1.875" leverage over about 21 degs of effective peak pressure durring the power stroke, now with the 377 we find a 6896rpm max piston speed,(3448 power strokes) a 13.56 square inches of piston area and about 20 degs of effective stroke and a 1.74" leverage over about 20 degs of effective peak pressure durring the power stroke, that the 377 has for an advantage(thats about 3% advantage in work force available for the 377 over the 383 (or about 191 extra power strokes per minute if your useing the 383 power strokes as a base measure, but of course the 383s longer stroke are slightly more effective but thats WHY the 377 is used more than the 383 as a racing engine now its very likely that if you don,t take advantage of that extra higher rpm torque range of the 377 that a 383 geared more to ITS IDEAL TORQUE RANGE will run with or beat the 377. if you take a 3600 lb car with a 3.08 rear gears the 383 is likely to win, but put 4.88 gears in a 2600 lb nova and theres no contest the 377 will win. BTW you can have some of the advantages of both combos by building a 406 sbc(4.155 bore x 3.75stroke)(3200 x 13.56 x 1000psi with that 1.875 thats the torque of the 383 and the power of the 377 + 1% because of the larger displacement. and after building about 20 383 engines and about a dozen 377s I can tell you a 406 will normall beat either of the smaller sizes. now as far as how the number of cylinders affects the torque, torque of a 6 cylinder turning the same speed with equal displacement/stroke per cylinder will be slightly less than 3/4 as much due mostly to a greater number of degs between cylinders fireing and a 12 cylinder with the same displacement/stroke per cylinder will give slightly more than 150% of the torque if the cylinders fireing are placed fewer degs apart than 90 degs or if two cylinders fire at the same time. 1985,1992,1996 vettes keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails --------------

no, not the KEBBLER ELVES OR THE STORK, look here! heres a chart of a typical engine http://www.geocities.com/ljaya6390/analysis.htm btw for those of you that can,t convert MPa-to-PSI in your head http://epics.aps.anl.gov/asd/me/UnitConv.html btw if your still not able to get it 5.402 MPa=783 psi now thats in about an 8:1 cpr engine you can reach 1200psi in a 11:1-13:1 racing engine thats where most of the better torque comes from! also notice that the pressure is only high for about 30 degs of the total 720 deg cycle and its only able to do usefull mechanical work for about 20 degs of the total 720 degs now if thats a typical smogger 350 chevy. a 4" bore has about 12.588 sq inchs of surface area x 783 psi /720 degs in the cycle x 20 degs of usefull work= 273 ft lbs of torque applied to the crankshaft every 90 degs, but kick the pressure to 1200psi in a 11:1 engine, and that same 350 makes 12.588sq inches x 1200psi /720degs in the cycle x 20 degs of usefull work= 419.7 ft lbs of torque, now alot depends on the dcr and volumetric efficiency but you should be getting the idea here by now!as long as the cylinders can fill completely you get a good fuel/air burn so you get a good cylinder pressure curve against the piston each time the cylinder fires,THE ENGINES TORQUE CURVE INCREASES WITH THE NUMBER OF EFFECTIVE POWER STROKES PER SECOND, at very low speeds theres not enough air velocity to mix the fuel correctly or produce a effective ram tuneing effect but as the rpms increase the cylinders fill very efficiently untill the rpms reach a point where the cylinders just don,t have the time necessary to flow enough air through the valves to fill the cylinders , remember a 5000rpm the intake valve out of 720 degs in each cycle opens for about 250degs of effective flow even with a hot roller cam, now thats only about 35% of the time and theres 41.6 intake strokes per second , thats only 1/60th of a second for air to flow into the cylinder, I found this graph that shows the relationship between V.E.(VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY) and AN ENGINEs torque CURVE http://www.n2performance.com/lectures/lect1/n2perf5.gif WHAT THAT GRAPH SHOWS RATHER EFFECTIVELY is that its your engines ability to fill the cylinders that increases your power and the more efficiently you do that the higher the rpm level you can acomplish that at the more power your engine makes, remember the formula for hp is (torque x rpm/ 5252=hp)so moveing the torque curve higher in the rpm range increases hp

links? ..we got links! http://www.mortec.com/location.htm http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm http://www.chevellepages.com/castings.htm http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~don_s/chevheadnumbers.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html http://home.att.net/~fteufert1/bbchevy/bbcodes.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html#casting http://www.tracyperf.com/blockssb.html http://www.vehicleidentificationnumber.com/ http://www.auto-ware.com/techref/castnum.htm http://www.planet.net.au/~alexst/bigblock.html http://fteufert1.home.att.net/bbchevy/bbcast.htm http://fteufert1.home.att.net/sbchevy/sb-cast.htm http://www.enteract.com/~holeshot/bbcid.html http://www.enginetechnologiesinc.com/decoding.htm http://www.planet.net.au/~alexst/SBC-block.html http://www.4racecars.com/engineblocks.html http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html#engine

want a little more POWER?/TORQUE? this may help http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel6.html http://starfire.ne.uiuc.edu/~ne201/1997/richard/index.html http://www.ggoil.com/racing.htm http://www.aliveweb.com/fuel_facts.html http://www.kemcooil.com/fueladditives.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel8.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html http://www.cmhnet.org/~charlie/photos/cars/audi/toluene.html http://www.torcoracefuels.com/

Mikelly , JUST AN IDEA!!!! theres lots of places around here that do ballanceing work, I use KEENER,S ENGINE MACHINE INC. PH#1-561-686-6134 SOME OF THE OTHER GUYS AROUND HERE USE MESA BALANCING PH# 1-305 884-5368