grumpyvette

you should be able to shim them with no problems but Id buy new valves myself, the longer set of valves is what I try and match because they should have more retainer to valve guide and spring bind clearance. but like I said its ok to run those valves you have if the clearances are set up ok and the valve springs are shimmed correctly. BTW now YOU SEE WHY I SUGGESTED BUYING FROM http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/ but don,t feel to bad you get to LEARN MORE THIS WAY, LOOK AT THIS AS TUITION IN THE SCHOOL OF DOING THINGS CHEAP/WRONG the first time! DONT MAKE ANOTHER MISTAKE>>>>get the correct springs, and since you need the new springs, get springs for a .600 lift clearance and get your heads clearanced for .600 lift, the differance in cost will be minimal but the troubles you may prevent in the future will be worth it.

your totally correct but its in there for anyone that thinks taking a few good hits off the bottle is a fun idea, and to make you check all your connections for leaks!if you get a migrain while useing the stuff! BTW they ADD SULFER DIOXIDE to car NITOUS JUST TO MAKE SURE YOU GET A HUGE HEADACHE IF YOU BREATH IT! TO KEEP THE MEDICAL MIS- USE TO A MINIMUM!

I really don,t think it will make a great deal of differance but after several years of testing I settled on a 195deg thermostat for my vette, it runs just a little bit better than the 180 deg thermostat, btw I hope you read these,all the way through, theres good info in them. http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008595.html http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/007261.html http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/006365.html

spring LOAD RATES MUST match the type of cam and lifters that your going to use! your choices are (1)buy new springs that match the cam you will be useing.(luckly valve springs for normal flat tappet cams are cheap) look here, http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefjgb&GHOME=www.mi dwestmotorsportsinc.com&TITLE=Midwest_Motorsport (type in valve spring in the search box then hit search) (2) get the springs tested to see if they are within the load range suggested by the cam manufacturer of the cam your going to use.if they are use them, if they are not buy ones that are within spec. (3)throw the springs on and use them the way they are knowing that if they are not within spec you will either wipe cam lobes and need to buy new springs and a new cam and rebuild the whole engine to remove all the ground away cam lobe metal, OR have springs that are weak and invite lower than normal valve float rpms. (4) get the guy you bought the heads from to pay for the new springs(NOT LIKELY THAT WILL HAPPEN) true/This really really sucks!!!

USE MOBILE 1 SYNTHETIC oil its perfectly happy and will not break down at temps up to 260f degs.(and can handle 275 degs for short periods (days at a time but not constantly) with no damage to the oil)BTW you need oil temps of about 215f degs minimum to burn off impurities in the oil so try for oil temps of 215f degs, water temps of 180-200f degs.(lower oil and water temps cost you power) and thats from SMOKEY YUNICKS RESEARCH FOR G.M. RACING AND NASCAR RACING ENGINES on whats best for long term engine wear and power production!! and even normal mineral base oil can run 225-230f degs for weeks without significant break down!(but above 240 degs it starts to break down) to quote SMOKEY,"the best mineral oils flash(burn)at 320 degs f but a good synthetic can withstand operating temps as high as 500 degs f for hours" BTW SMOKEY WAS TALKING ABOUT OIL TEMPS on the bearing surfaces not in the sump. try for that 260f max sump temp. http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008595.html http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/007261.html http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/006365.html

nitrous articles you might want to read http://www.gofastzone.com/techarticles/nitrous101/nitrous101.asp http://www.resort.com/~banshee/Info/N2O/N2O.html http://www.findarticles.com/cf_dls....e.jhtml http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page14.htm http://www.dynopower.freeserve.co.uk/nitrous_oxide/ http://www.howstuffworks.com/question259.htm

get an ECU and all the other parts (throttle body, brackets,injectors, sensors, etc. from a late model TPI WRECK in a salvage yard EITHER SPEED DENSITY OR MAF SYSTEMS WILL WORK BUT MAF SYSTEMS WILL WORK BETTER.MOST WRECKING/SALVAGE YARDS will allow you to take all those parts for under $300.00, Ive got a WHOLE TPI CORVETTE engine for $450.00 before so look around!

utvolman99 is correct if you don,t have a hydrolic press set up to do that job your way better off getting a machine shop to do the job for you,and not screwing up the pistons or piston pins or the connecting rods( thats one of the problems you run into when you use pistons with pressed pins, and its one of the problems you can avoid by building engines with full floating pistons

Hey guys, Just wanted to pass some info. The price at Summit for the lower and upper (unpolished) is 279.99 (7540) The fuel rail kit which you need is 173.69 from Summit (534-185) Less than $500 total. The results given are from the chassis dyno. A 1-2-3 gear pull (700R4) was done. The lowest rpm given was from the gear shift on (that is what it dropped to on the shift recovery). The 1st gear numbers were the same as the stock TPI (from a dead roll), but with converter, etc, I question that. If I had a 5 sp car I would pull from 1000 RPM. I posted what we had, not trying to hide anything. This intake is not designed for someone that shifts at 4000 RPM and likes torque at 1400 RPM. If that is what you want, keep the stock TPI intake as that is what it is designed for. Hope that helps. [Modified by Doug Flynn, 10:06 AM 4/20/2002] _______ Doug 1972 388 EFI Nova flynnsefi Here's a list of parts we used. -Used a 85 Camaro Carbureted upper radiator hose (Dayco 71028) (trimmed the ends back) - Use a std. small block Chevy waterneck (Mr. Gasket PN 2661) -Two 1/4" x 1/8"NPT straight barb fittings (rear of intake, MAP sensor and other items, I run only one line to MAP) -One 3/8" x 3/8" NPT straight barb fitting (rear of intake other vacuum items) -One 3/8" x 3/8" NPT 90 deg. barb (goes under plenum, used for brake booster) - 2 feet 1/4" vacuum hose - 2 feet 3/8" vacuum hose - (1) 5/16" compression fitting to -6 male AN - (1) 3/8" compression fitting to -6 male AN - (2) 3-1/2 foot -6 line with female hose ends. Goes from inlet and outlet to fuel stock fuel lines which are cut from underneath car, the two compression fittings are installed on the stock fuel line. - (3) 1/4" vacuum plugs for EGR solenoid and throttle body - (1) large clamp All the vacuum ports are machined into the plenum. The current lowers don't have the late style center bolts machined, but I am getting future ones machined correctly to fit both. Can't say when for sure. Used the stock air inlet. You lose EGR and we didn't hook the coolant to the throttle body. Need to use the small cap GM HEI. Coil mounted with stock bracket in stock location. Didn't have to modify any wiring.

Greimann is most likely correct here normally you need 1/2"ID feed and 3/8"-1/2"ID return lines and a pump that flows at least 250gph at 50psi for a supercharged engine,(THATS REALLY MARGINAL IF YOU DON,T WANT TO CHANCE BURNING PISTONS GO LARGER) read and play with ALL OF this untill understand understand this. http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET here where you get good pumps and fittings http://www.bennettracing.com/html/fuel_systems.html

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum12/HTML/000534.html now remember this is PURE bone stock add a cam and headers, etc and the extra AIR/FUEL flow CFM of that STEALTH RAM will easily get you 100hp+ over a TPI intake with the same parts, got questions TALK TO DOUG,(one of HOLLEYS ENGINEERS ON THAT PROJECT) over at CHEVYTALK.COM tell him GRUMPYVETTE TOLD YOU TO ASK HIM, this intake is way better than most thats obvious, think how lousy a tunnel ram would work on a pure stock engine, the STEALTH RAM MADE 63 more hp on a stock engine! think about it! _______ torque x rpm /5252=hp sooooo! he lost 9.7 ft lbs of torque at 3400rpm and gained 63.63 ft lbs at 5200rpm, in effect he gained torque and hp from 4400rpm and up and the worst he did was loose 9.7 ft lbs at 3200rpm IP keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails

the STEALTH RAM is a replacement EFI(ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION) intake for the TPI chevy intake, look here about a few inches down the page for a picture, its also available with its own lap top programable ECU http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/WhatsNew/WhatsNew.html

http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum12/HTML/000534.html now remember this is PURE bone stock add a cam and headers, etc and the extra AIR/FUEL flow CFM of that STEALTH RAM will easily get you 100hp+ over a TPI intake with the same parts, got questions TALK TO DOUG,(one of HOLLEYS ENGINEERS ON THAT PROJECT) over at CHEVYTALK.COM tell him GRUMPYVETTE TOLD YOU TO ASK HIM, this intake is way better than most thats obvious, think how lousy a tunnel ram would work on a pure stock engine, the STEALTH RAM MADE 63 more hp on a stock engine! think about it! _______ keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails

take them down to the do it yourself local car wash that has those high pressure wands that spray soapy water blast the crap out of those ports (be carefull around the valve seals)then spray the heads down with wd40 to remove the water untill you get home and dry the heads completely with a hair dryer and spray them down with good quality spray oil and put them sealled plastic bags untill you need them but be very sure they are totally dry,hot from the hair dryier and well oiled first)

yes thats very normal!! and thats why I said several times"NO HEAD COMES READY TO RUN OUT OF THE BOX,THEY ALL NEED A POCKET PORT JOB" the quality of the more expensive aluminum heads is much better and you can get away with running them out of the box but ]"NO HEAD COMES READY TO RUN OUT OF THE BOX,THEY ALL NEED A POCKET PORT JOB" they ALL BENEFIT from a little T.L.C. with a dremmel , the minor clean-up work is worth at least 10-20hp so its time well spent! just don,t try to change the port shape your only trying to smooth/blend those tool marks,pits,casting flash, valve seat ridges on the lowest edge as it drops into the port smoothly into the port as you move away into the port it self..btw chevy heads are even worse sometimes

sorry for the delay Im moderator on several sites and I get over 100 questions a day now, so sometimes I miss one. the CompCams 292H-10 244/244 @.050 501/501 w/ 110 LSA you mentioned is a good match to those iron chevy heads because they NEED that extra duration to breath well at rpms over 6000rpm the CompCams XE294H 250/256 @.050 519/523 w/ 110 LSA will loose more tq in the low rpm range but not give back a huge amout of hp more than the other cam so in my opinion its not that much of a gain, it will tend to slightly increase the power but narrow the peak of the torque curve quite a bit. the new AFR heads will breath way better and will not need that much duration to breath at similar rpms so cams with slightly less duration but better lift will more closely match your engines needs, that in your case puts you into a roller cam profile if your looking to get the most tq/hp from your engine because flat tappet cams don,t have the lift to duration ratio that will best suit your needs, if you look at the engines on the AFR site youll notice they seldom go over 242@.050 duration be cause the want to maximize tq/hp and the heads flow well enought that they don,t need to, keep in mind the minimum duration that allows the cylinders to fill at the rpms your engine runs at is what your after because the piston can,t start the compression of the fuel air mix on the compression stroke untill both valves are closed and the higher and longer the valves are held open the better the engine can breath, so what you need is the highest lift with the shortest duration that matches the cylinder heads flow and the engines rpm range, increaseing the flow allows for slightly lower duration in ratio to lift so that the cylinders still fill but the valves closeing slightly faster will gain you more effective torque simply because you can fill, compress and burn more fuel air mix, play with this DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO PROGRAM, http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html youll soon see what Im talking about.

this was posted over AT CHEVYTALK.COM I thought you guys might like to see the info!that means that with a carefully done pocket port job these heads will quite easily support 575-600hp "Ok Folks, perhaps this will help. I just flowed some dart iron e. 215 w205 x160 valves bare out of the box. int ex 200 lift 122.8 107.6 300 " 170.7 134.0 400 " 218.1 162.2 500 " 254.3 176.7 Thadd 600 " 275.7 181.3 700 " 277.3 184.1 The shop did it in 0.50 increments starting @ 0.50 and the curve was nice and smooth and the reversion bottom to top was FLAT. Minor work could improve things perhaps but thats the BARE truth. Jim "

ok you have a reasonably good short block from what your telling me but the heads and intake and cam are killing the hp. if you go all out your looking at about $1500 for new heads,intake and cam, that will boost your power about 100hp-110hp, if thats too much you can get about 65-70 hp more for $1100, its a P.I.T.A. but hp costs money!

3970010....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro 3970010....327.....69....2...Trucks and industrial 3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4 WELL FOR STARTERS THE BLOCKS A GOOD ONE 3973487....71-72...350..........used on 71-72 350 LT1, 75cc chamber the heads are better than some out there, but not great. the cam is more than likely the LUNATI #00016 built for lower rpm torque, now it depends on how much time and money you are willing to invest to get more hp(your at about 315hp/360 tq now) so your guess was correct. the heads and cam and intake are your problems with the heads being the biggest one but of course without the other two matching your not going to get big hp. HOW MUCH CAN YOU SPEND? HOW MUCH WORK CAN YOU DO YOURSELF?

if it will fit the long pump gives less problems with the timeing chain cover fit too.Ive always prefered the longer aluminum HIGH VOLUME pumps IF they fit, on both bbc and sbc engine installs.

interesting reading for gear heads https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/MobilPDS.nsf/26b7c4b33367a4a086256665004e4266/61638dff7d0453b085256b8400618b40?OpenDocument http://www.amsoil.com/products/amo.html http://www.knowyouroil.com/dyno.htm http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm http://forums.vmag.com/suvsuburban0900/messages/1272.html

btw Ive done intake swaps at the track to find out and in most cases the victor type intake will out run the rpm type intake in street racing type engines, but like I said above your gearing and cam must match, Im betting you did not rejet that carb and tune that engine correctly for that intake if theres a loss of power in the 4000rpm and up range under drag racing type rpm levels with the victor intake ,yes theres no doubt at all that the rpm intake has more torque in the idle to 3500rpm range but your not in your engines effective power band in that rpm range while racing, only while driveing around town, and driveing around town takes very little hp! btw read this http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008625.html

if you read my post carefully it says,change the oil filter after 90 minutes too 2 hrs and change the oil and oil filter again at 100 miles, the oil filter will be partly clogged with metalic dust and E.O.S.the first time the engine cools thats why I said change the oil filter the first time the engine cools I also said to change the oil filter and the oil at the 100 mile point thats to remove any oil that has remaining traces of E.O.S. and remaining metalic dust from the engine before you add the synthetic oil.this whole process should take about 3-4 hours max, thats the total time that that E.O.S. will be in your engine!

both those cams are slightly to large for max hp , trust me on this go with a #12-771-8 solid or 12-433-8 hydrolic roller if max hp is what your after , several 350 sbc engine builds in magazines and guys I know with 350-383 engines are slightly over 500hp with those cams!, and yes you will most likely need to get more valvetrain clearance for the increased lift and yes the NEW AFR HEADS that flow better will help a great deal http://www.compcams.com/information/search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-433-8 http://www.compcams.com/information/search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-771-8 Im useing a crane #119661 in my 383 and its even milder and gets close to 500hp and I chose it because I was much more interested in a massive torque curve and ease of maintainance than peak hp, http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119661&B1=Display+Card look here http://www.airflowresearch.com/ Chevy Dyno Tested Packages look here, http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=868 http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_block_stroker_383_cu.htm

the victor jr style intakes produce all their power in the 4000rpm plus range where the performer rpm style produce most of their power in the 1000rpm-5000rpm area, if the cam your useing has over about 235 degs@.050 on the intake and your gearing keeps you above 4000rpm most of the time durring a race the victor intake will normally give you better et/mph in the 1/4 mile, if your cam has less durration or your average rpm is below 4000rpm theres no question the performer rpm intake will work better. that loss of low rpm torque can be gotten back while keeping most of the high end performance to some extent if you accept at slight loss in extreme high rpm power (above6500rpm) by adding a plenum divider to that victor intake,(down the center of the plenum front to back) just get some aluminum sheetmetal fold it in 1/2 (forming a tall narrow letter (V) upside down) and place it under the carb in the plenum it should be as tall as the plenum and about 1/2" wide at the base and 1/8" wide or less at the under carb area,(make a pattern before cutting the aluminum with paper its much easier to get correct that way)try to fit the ends as closely as possable but don,t get crazy over a perfect fit either, it should wedge firmly in place to test it,once you find the height that works best epoxy the divider in place in the plenum. btw sometimes a slightly shorter height like 2/3s as tall as the plenum works even better you will need to play with it to find out, hope that helps