grumpyvette

150plusZ The things ID suspect is DETONATION damage to the piston,and excessively fast ignition advance,and total timing, probably combined and probably a overly lean fuel/air ratio, ID verify the timing and posting some clear pictures of the sparkplugs would sure help, and knowing if the cam was properly degreed in the engine would help also, if the cams installed a couple degrees off youll find it can run like crap under load. I don,t know your ring gap or piston to cylinder wall clearance either, but those could easily come into play here

what Ive got seems adequate 6- 12 ton jack stands 4- 8 ton jack stands 4 -3 ton jack stands 1 -9000lb two post lift 4- ramps 2- three ton floor jacks 2- 16 ton bottle jacks

naturally youll want to first disassemble the larger sections of the machine and possiably remove electrical components before you clean it, you find a nice location with good drainage where you can take your time and pressure wash the crap out of the tool after soaking it down a few times with a good commercial grease solvent or the spray engine cleaners like GUNK, then spray it down with WD40 to help remove water/moisture. now you don,t want some crazy tree hugger screaming about getting greasy suds into the water supply so a commercial car wash with the bays where you rent a pressure wand and throw pockets full of quarters into the machine while the machines in a pick-up truck bed might be an option. once you get it reasonably clean ID suggest placing it near a portable heater someplace and carefully use lint free cloth and oil to finish up the process and don,t get cheap with the oil, BTW MARVEL MYSTERY OIL is a good cleaner as its loaded with solvents and leaves a protective film, but the key to doing this correctly is having the clean components dry and well oiled and hot to the touch from the heat source so you know the moistures been removed from the little cracks and threads, etc. before stopping the clean up process. try to prevent CONDENSATION, by keeping the machine surfaces hot to the touch and coated with oil. http://www.heatershop.com/kerosene_forced_air_k50_fa.html http://www.heatershop.com/forced_air_propane_heaters.html

wheel repair, and widening and narrowing ok many times youve seen a custom set of wheels you like but they don,t come in the correct width for your application, or youve got great wheels but youve screwed one up and it needs repairs, sometimes you just want wider tires and your current wheels won,t fit that tire width correctly or youve seen some killer (ford, caddy,nissan ETC,) wheels but they don,t come in your ideal bolt pattern or width. theres several shops that specialize in doing the necessary mods and reworked wheels can be just as strong or stronger than new wheels if the works done correctly.... BEFORE LOOKING INTO MODIFYING WHEELS DO AN EXHAUSTIVE SEARCH ON NEW WHEELS,THAT MAY WORK CORRECTLY, SIMPLY BECAUSE THE AVERAGE COST, OF MODIFICATIONS TENDS TO RUN BETWEEN $125-$200 PLUS PER WHEEL,(IVE SEEN STOCKCAR STEEL WHEELS DONE FOR UNDER $70 EACH) and VERIFY THAT THE TIRES AND BRAKES YOU WANT ARE AVAILABLE AND WILL FIT THE NEW RIM SIZE example I had a dana 60 rear differential from a PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA installed in my CORVETTE , the bolt pattern was differant and I wanted disc brakes that would not fit the 15" drum brake MOPAR wheels that looked crappy anyway, and 17" wheels were not even an option in the 1970s on CUDAs so if I wanted matching 11" wide wheels what can you do? well, its not cheap but it is something you can do, and with STEEL WHEELS its a good deal cheaper than with aluminum in many cases. but you can have almost any wheel fabricated, to match the lug pattern, back spacing, etc. you want, if you can supply the basic wheels of the correct inner and outer dia. the work cam be as simple as cutting and rewelding and reballancing the wheels, it can be far more complicated so ask lots of questions before commiting to the project, and try to deal locally as it tends to remove some possiable problems if you can deal face-to-face with the shop. the key is finding a RELIEABLE SHOP THAT DOES QUALITY WORK, your local stock car track guys should be very familiar with who does the work in your area on steel wheels and many times the same guys repair and modify aluminum and custom wheels.the KEY in getting a good result is in dealing with a quality shop with a long history of good customer feed back and doing VERY PRECISE MEASSURMENTS and suppling a PRECISE diagram , because your going to get almost exactly what you request in back spacing, dimensions and lug patterns , if you measure wrong your screwed and youll need decent wheels to start with, (sometimes 8 old wheels will be required to build 4 new wheels). heres three shops off the internet, and one had multipule links with bad =feedback http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/Wide.htm http://www.thewheelsmith.net/ heres two that do custom repairs and widening http://www.stocktonwheel.com/wheel_widening.htm stocktons had lots of bad customer feedback pop up when I did an internet search more wheel related info. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/3636/ http://www.high-impact.net/wheels/backspacingillustration.htm http://www.custom-wheels-n-rims.com/WheelTech/wheel-backspace.htm http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#backspace http://www.intercotire.com/html/body_true-mph.htm http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/ttiredia.htm http://www.rsracing.com/rscatalog/prod-index.asp http://www.rsracing.com/glossary.htm#patch http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html http://www.geocities.com/steve.knickerbocker/tires/tirediam.htm http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_conversions.htm#C4%20Corvette%20DRM%20Wilwood%20Brake%20Kit

can,t beat that deal! ID use a pressure washer and ;lots of wd40

yeah! IM IN NEED OF ALOT MORE INFO ON HOW TO DEAL WITH WOMEN AND HOW TO MAKE MONEY FROM HOME!

if youve currently got roller rockers NOW, the rocker studs need to match,the holes in the rocker piviot bars,or roller axles the rockers rotate on, if your still going to buy them yet, the 7/16" are slightly stronger, but the 3/8" are more comon, your choice, but if you intend on running the engine hard get a matching rocker stud girdle that matches the stud spacing and adjustment nut size

IF your buying USED HEADS why are the rocker studs not included and if they are not, why were they removed? ID suggest you call call AIR FLOW RESEARCH 661-257-8124 http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php (notice 3/8") http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php (notice 7/16") but the 7/16" studs would be my preferance, but not necessarly what was installed, as 3/8" is comon, or what fit the heads or your rockers, or rocker stud girdle, if you need to buy new studs, and lock nuts and rockers, etc.but since you didn,t tell me WHICH heads or how old they are or part numbers ETC... I can only guess

really impressive!, and I love the air-hat source

probably , but youll need an adapter for the valve covers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NAL%2D24502540&N=700+115&autoview=sku

several year old pics are all IVE got handy,(taken during construction) http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=278

http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html http://www.jeepgod.net/enginewts.html http://www.performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html depending on WHICH config of each engine your refering too,the differance in weight can go from about 75 lbs to about 150 lbs

WHICH STOCK 350 SBC, what transmission, what rear gear, whats the car weigh,the 350 sbc was produced in many versions that run from about 170hp-375hp? Thats a bit like asking if the next girl off the next random bus, wearing a blue dress, is going to be over 5.6" tall? a few more bits of info would go along way towards getting a reasonable guess as to the answer. Many guys install a SBC because its got alot of tech SUPPORT and the bugs are mostly worked out for the swap, the results, depend a good deal on the power to weight ratio, the suspension and tires, and the drive train thats used.

yeah ! that info and a few detailed pictures of those nova/chevy II headers,installed in a datsun (Z) from both sides of the engine compartment looking down and from under the car looking up with the car on a lift would help most of the guys a great deal

Its reasonable to think the valve seals are defective on those two cylinders , possiably they were installed incorrectly or damaged, durring storage. Id sure try inspecting and replacing them as its a fairly easy job, and yes, allowing the engine to sit a few years may have easily damaged the valve seals as they could, have had rust on the valve or some other factor damage them. BTW having good compression numbers does not totally rule out rings as a source of the oil, Id also look into adjusting the valves and check clearances carefully, lots of guys install high lift cams without verifying coil bind or retainer to valve seal clearance with the result the valve seals get damaged, this might help http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1053

12480157 looks good btw before you go dumping a stack of cash into that combo, you might want to think of this option. http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/12371171/502502DeluxeKitGMPerformancePartsCrateEngineAssembly.aspx or http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginespage1.html FEATURED ENGINE * 550 Urban Assault Engine Price The goal was not top horsepower, although 600 is pretty good, but a broad torque curve. This engine had 625 ft. lb. of torque at 2800 RPM and still was above 625 at 4800. Based on the brand new Merlin III block and featuring Merlin iron heads and aluminum intake the new 550 has produced some phenomenal numbers on the dyno. The engine was designed for daily street use and starts great and idles at a smooth 700 RPM. On the dyno, 18 pulls were made to optimize timing, jetting, etc. Different rocker ratios and carb spacers were also tested. The engine features all premium components including 4340 steel crank, H-beam rods, forged SRP pistons, Sealed Power plasma moly rings, race bearings parts that will take a good shot of nitrous. A complete Comp Cams valve train is used including the latest technology hydraulic roller cam. Top line brands like MSD, Manley, Holley, and Moroso finish the package. Options: for aluminum heads add $800 many options available Complete engine carb to pan $8,995 doesn,t look bad

the only tool IM truely happy with that IVE bought there is thier 12 ton jack stands (I BOUGHT 6 for the shop) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924 Ive also got a couple of thier engine stands, they work but are hardly top quality, still thier far better than some IVE seen http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4420

first CONGRATS!! now go have a LONG DETAILED talk with the local miller dealer and BUY or rent a TANK OF SHIELD GAS and some WIRE of HIS selection meeting YOUR particular needs, YES YOU NEED THE SHIELD GAS TO WELD CORRECTLY welding without it is basically a waste of time, as its not true MIG WELDING, and the weld quality suffers

The advantage of doing it the way I stated, above and the way HOLLEY RECOMMENDS is a constant fresh flow of fuel feeds the injectors ,any water or air trapped in the lines gets cycled rapidly back to the tank for a repeat trip, where in theory the filters trap it there, the dual feed route at least in theory allows water or air to remain trapped in the fuel rails circular routing that supplies the injectors much longer, as the main exit routes the injectors, themselfs, yes in theory the dual feed supplys both ends of the fuel rails , but thats seldom if ever been the advantage it seems, at first, since the exact same volume is available with either route

are those 3/8" Inside Dia. hard lines or 3/8" Outside Dia. hard lines? youll probably be fine either way, but the 3/8" ID would be superior btw GENERALLY you feed fuel dirrectly into the rear of one side fuel rail,(GENERALLY PASS SIDE) run a connector accross the front of the intake to the opposite drivers side fuel rail and install a connector at that point to the fuel pressure regulator mounted at the rear of the drivers side fuel rail that connect to the return line. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10265.pdf http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10265.pdf

http://www.ohiocrank.com/home.html ID have these guys build it but ID use the new DART BLOCK

have a long talk with your engine builder but heres a rought idea, yeah, we USED to build similar combos MANY years back, now we build 3.5" or 3.75" stroke engines in those 400 blocks (377 displacement,0r 406 displacement because there noticably faster) youll need a manual trans, a 4.11- 4.56 rear gear to use the combo http://www.daymotorsports.com/product/1839/MAIN-BEARING-SPACERS KING BEARING SPACERS Part Number Description Price Qty Add EB-MB5224AM Chevy 350 to 400 Spacer $49.99 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/MAIN-BEARING-SPACERS-FOR-SandB-CHEVY-350-CRANK,533.html 400 sbc block/350 crank main bearing spacers heads like these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D30300001&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku intake like this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&autoview=sku theres also TRW MS3110P is the part number for a main bearing set to put a standard pre 1968 small journal (283, 265, sj327) crank into a medium journal (350) block you can use SCAT BRAND 6.25" rods PART # 2-350-6250-2100 6.250", 2.100" PIN, ARP 8740 Bolts. and these pistons http://www.kb-silvolite.com Part Number:KB763 a solid roller cam similar to this http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00552&x=37&y=13 you should easily support 450 plus hp and 7500 plus rpm, with the short stroke version, but use a 3.5"-3.75" stroke and bigger heads and 500-550 plus hp and a bunch more torque is available

no true texan would set voluntarily set foot in some places like so-cal. mass.,new jersey,new york, or poke anything from there with out a long stick!

now what would be HILARIOUS... is some guy making a big deal over how crappy it looks................ then finding out, this car was FASTER than yours after the guy went and built AND INSTALLED THAT!!!! NO ! I DON,T KNOW WHO BUILT THAT

YES I REALLY DO GET GRUMPY..... but sometimes its funny, I pulled into 7/11 yesterday for some coffee and IM wearing a GRUMPY SHIRT similar too this one....but the slogon on THE SHIRT reads... IM ONLY GRUMPY ON DAYS ENDING IN(Y) as IM standing in front of the cashier I see her lips moving as shes sounding out the words..... it takes her a good 10-15 seconds, ... she stares at me for a few more.... then she slowly starts smiling...... .and says...... they ALL END IN (Y) DON,T THEY!