grumpyvette

hope that helps a bit

first step, check and probably replace the engine ground and check and probably replace the main power cable to the starter from the remote ford solenoid, Id also replace the ford solenoid as they are very cheap, and easily access. its probably not the starter ITSELF. if the problem remains Id start looking the ignition switch and the wiring to the solenoid http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

"I've read and read about primary sizes, tube diameters, etc., and I would like a plain english answer from experience on what would be the best set up. Thanks, Jim." http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=188&sb=2 ok I did the math, with that cam and that displacement, intake, etc, your peak torque should fall close to 5000rpm, in the power curve 1 3/4" primairies 39" long 3.25" collector 20" long

Ive heard mixed reviews on the rattler ballancers but most of the more trusted sources seem to like them, I certainly would use one if I got one at a good price,but Ive had excellent luck with the FLUID DAMPER style ballancers. but then I only build INTERNALLY BALLANCED engines if I have any choice, externally ballanced assemblies tend to have far more stress if you shop around youll find 383 and even 396 sbc rotating assemblies and 454-598 BBC rotating assemblies that are INTERNALLY BALLANCED http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/ http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?cPath=277&main_page=index http://www.dougherbert.com/enginecomponents-c-1.html?osCsid=142235bfb80f661d2ddeb291748c14a7

first read thru this http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/ then buy and read thru the book and watch this dvd http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html once youve done that we will get into your goals in detail

first read thru this http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/ then buy and read thru the book and watch this dvd http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html once youve done that we will get into your goals in detail

I almost hate to comment, on chinese import stuff, but yes its been my experiance that for a cheaper damper they work reasonably well, certainly as well or better than a stock damper

http://www.naparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?InventoryId=73383 http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/detail/1085/?make=Buick&model=Skylark&year=(1964%20-%201979)

Ive done the same thing on occasion, but with COKE CANS that are all around the place as I have a soda machine in the shop you did notice the added software http://midmoracing.com/bendit.htm

I added some bending radias software you might want to the first post

"A SIMPLE QUICK CHECK FOR YOUR COIL IS :CHECK YOUVE GOT 12 VOLTS, AT THE COIL, PUT A TEST LIGHT TO GROUND AND THE NEG SIDE OF COIL AND CRANK ENGINE THE TEST LIGHT SHOULD FLASH OR FLICKER.(ANALOG METERS WITH A SWINGING NEEDLE,SWEEP ARE BETTER THAN DIGITAL) THIS WILL TELL IF YOUR TRIGGER IS WORKING. NEXT TAKE A PLUG AND HOOK IT TO YOUR COIL WIRE AND GROUND THE PLUG,BODY AND CHECK FOR SPARK THERE ACCROSS THE PLUG GAP,WHEN YOU CRANK THE CARS ENGINE, BE AWARE MANY IGNITIONS WON,T HAVE VOLTAGE UNTILL YOU HAVE 4-5 PSI OF OIL PRESSURE, GAP THE TEST SPARK PLUG AT .150, SPARK SHOULD BE BRIGHT BLUE,IF ITS YELLOW OR RED, CHECK ENGINE GROUNDS FIRST, THEN START LOOKING FOR OTHER PROBLEMS http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system3.htm http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig108.htm http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa062902b.htm http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm http://www.ehow.com/how_2321232_test-ignition-coil-car.html and yes THE BETTER multi spark control boxes are well worth the expence as they tend to stop or make plug fouling significantly lower http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=4209 http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3206 http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=9765

many are supercharged BIG BLOCKS running gas,or alcohol some nitrous, these sites might help http://www.monstertrucks.net/directory.asp?category=3 http://www.monstertrucks.net/directory.asp?category=1 http://www.monsterjamonline.com/results/Result.2004-07-15.2237 http://www.gravedigger.com/history/Document.2004-03-05.3540/document_view

http://members.cox.net/linec/80ZX.png MIGHT HELP (BOTTOM LEFT)

the more I weld the more I tend too avoid my arc and MIG for the more precise stuff,and go with my oxy-acetolene torch and my TIG btw IVE been in over my head on projects more times than I can remember, it just part of learning

theres times when the 1.6:1 ratio gives no improvements and times when theres noticable gains from the slight increase in lift, but theres rarely if ever any advantage to useing the 1.5:1 ratio over the 1.6:1 ratio if clearances allow the higher lift except if you insist on getting into or near valve float rpms where the 1.5:1 ratio tends to be a tiny bit less likely to float valves go the 1.6:1 ratio

your aware that vortec heads normally require self aligning rockers and don,t use pushrod guide plates and NARROW body rockers http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=1318-16&Category_Code=

I usually start at what ever point, (jets/power valves )the carb came with and let the plugs and a/f ratio and an IR temp gun on the headers tell me the necessary changes, if I had to guess Id start with 70 jets and 5.5 pvs front and rear, fuel pressure at 5 psi and set the floats to the bottom of the inspection ports and go from there! read thru this stuff below while keeping in mind the basic goal is a 13.5-14.5:1 mid rpm cruise a/f ratio and about that same ratio at idle, with about 12.8:1-13.5:1 at wide open throttle, a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge,(I like to try for 5.0- 5.5 psi on the FP regulator) having your floats set correctly(just damp lower sight hole threads) and your ignition timing correct (all in at about 3200rpm at about 36-38 degrees total advance)and about 6-10 degrees BTDC at 900rpm idle)are mandatory http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm ID buy TWO of these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D210230&N=700+4294861568+4294860208+115&autoview=sku accellerator pump cams

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0511phr_vortec/index.html http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0511sc_vortec/index.html as long as you realize that the vortec heads require a differant intake,rockers,valve covers, etc. and that theres two differant types of vortec heads, the 170cc small port and the much better,for major hp builds, 215cc large port versions,(but the large port versions are not well matched to that particular combo, while the small port versions are a good match) and make the apropreate mods your looking at a decent combo

no problem running no pvc and multi breathers but you can run...a connector/breather tube and connect the PVC mid span, and with a bit of fabrication youll cure the problem http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP146&line=MWM

ok?

will this help? http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/crank-bal-c.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/engine-balancing-for-life-power-amp-efficiency-spg-145.html http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/engine-balancing.php http://www.eddiesvalvegrinding.com/balancing.htm http://www.completeautorepair.net/engine_balancing.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb10330.htm http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0803_engine_balancing/index.html

the cam,lifters,crank,heads and rods are good but I don,t see the compression ratio listed , which needs to be at about 10.5:1 and I don,t know your trans or rear gear ratio which should be something like a manual trans with a 3.90:1 rear gear the Weiand Xcelerator is a poor choice get the http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&autoview=sku you better plan on a decent baffled oil pan also like a http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D21805&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku and set the rev limiter at 6700rpm and get decent 1 3/4" full length headers and a 3" full length exhaust Ive had good results with this carb http://www.jegs.com/i/Barry%20Grant/132/5282010GC/10002/-1#

at least with a FLYWHEEL its easily detachable and you can generally get to both ends of the threaded hole the bolts in once its detached from the crank. Id suggest lots of penetrateing oil and use of a DRILL PRESS with a reverse twist drill bit!

you have a pm lets talk

step 1, buy and install this cam E110024KS ERSON http://kyspeedparts.com/items/valvetrain/camshafts/pbm~erson-cams/small-block-chevy-hydraulic-flat-tappet/pbm-e110024ks-sb-chevy-cam-kit-55-95-detail.htm in your 307 sbc,OR YOUR 350SBC this intake http://kyspeedparts.com/items/intake-manifolds/professional-products-intake-manifolds/small-block-chevy/pps52026-sb-chevy-crosswind-satin-finish-1500-6500-rpm-detail.htm these headers http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D65003&N=700+4294925082+4294908216+4294908198+4294840140+115&autoview=sku that alone will make a noticable improvement, it should boost the stock 307 about 40hp,or 350 about 50 hp and leave it DRIVEABLE AND DEPENDABLE