grumpyvette

if the lengths correct you can buy adapter /conversion u-joints http://www.mrdriveshaft.com/U-Joint%20Page.htm#Neapco%20Conversion%20U-Joints

temporarily remove spark plugs and squirt a few tablespoons of marvel mystery oil into each cylinder and spin the engine over by hand to lube and coat the upper cylinders with oil to reduce rust and then replace the plugs finger tight, back off the rockers so the valve springs and valve train are not under load. tape the exhaust ports with duct tape, and place a few taped garbage bags or a decent engine storage bag around the engine to reduce rust forming. place the engine stand in a fairly dry and well ventilated area.

one factor thats always a P.I.T.A. is theres always ways to improve a combo and it always allows you to spend more money on a project than the results may be worth, sure you can build a 500 plus hp engine, but at some point the cost vs value makes it rather foolish to constantly upgrade components as the cost starts to increase faster than the resulting power even if it is impressive! you still didn,t post the transmission or stall speed youll use,or if its an automatic trans, and since you asked about maximizing the combos potential ,one of the 350sbc strong points is its ability to rev if the correct cam, valve train and compression are used, a max piston speed of about 4000fpm with basically stock type components should be a reasonable limitation and thats about 6700rpm, obviously the hydraulic valve-train is not ideal, and a solid roller and roller rockers with a stud girdle should be used, and youll need to swap to much better springs and clearance the valve train for about a .600 minimum lift if your intention is to maximize the power curve, and if that is your goal Id have selected a manual trans, got the compression up in the 10.5-11:1 range and installed a solid roller valve train with a cam similar to a 501B1lun http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/lun-501b1lun.pdf which will allow you to drag every last bit of flow from mildly ported stock vortec heads with the required better valve springs, and that rpm air gap intake and 750cfm carb. obviously that won,t be an ideal combo for a daily driver but it should be good for a weekend track and street toy, ID also point out that there are 206cc vortec heads that would significantly boost the combos potential you should read these threads http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1040&p=3686&hilit=large+vortec#p3686 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181&hilit=large+vortec http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=401&p=6078&hilit=large+vortec#p6078

Ive generally had the best results with installing a cam STRAIT UP or in most cases 4 degrees retarded from the dot-to dot install location most manufacturers suggest. a hydraulic cam will limit valve train control to about 6200rpm you failed to mention several variables, like the compression ratio, header config, intake,carb,transmission and rear gearing, converter stall or manual trans?,etc. but Im going to assume youll take the time to maximize most of those to gain a reasonable combo, it should be obvious that while I can give you some good idea as to potential, the other parts you select and the care during assembly, and any mods to those parts will effect the results vortec heads have a minimum cross sectional area near the push-rod of approximately 1.7 sq inches most vortec heads max on flow at about 240cfm, which in theory means they could be expected to feed up to about 480hp with the correct cam,compression etc. but with a cam like your selecting thats limited your peak potential in favor of more low and mid rpm torque. peak torque will occur at about 3800rpm-4000rpm, youll be lucky to exceed 1.25 ft lbs per cubic inch or about 430ft lbs even with good headers a rough guess says it torque peaks or noses over by about 5500rpm, and that would limit that combo to about 420hp max with that cam and stock heads because the formula for hp=torque x rpm/5252 so if we give you the max torque and assume it carrys effectively up to 5500rpm 350 cubic inches x 1.25=437ft lbs x 5500rpm/ 5252=458hp x .9 max volumetric efficiency =412hp http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html obviously you can use a software program like desk top dyno to get a good guess, but Id be surprised if you exceed those approximate numbers (412-to-420hp (flywheel)) running pump octane fuel and that cam with un-ported heads once its tuned and installed use this calculators to see if results are close http://www.dragtimes.com/horsepower-et-trap-speed-calculator.php http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

use BRASS freeze plugs and coat them properly with sealant before the install, use an anode and a proper ground strap and a 50% antifreeze mix in the coolant and that usually won,t be an issue http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=869&p=1357#p1357 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-381-8009/

its just a guess because IM not on site but you may be either low on trans fluid or the trans cooler had some air in the lines, let it idle until the engine reaches about 200F operating oil temp and verify the trans fluid levels correct.

first step is obviously verify your trans fluid levels are correct, and verify the converter spins with the engine, which it looks like you've done, theres a few links on how to adjust the TV linkage you should read heres some linked info that might be useful http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=2400&p=6331&hilit=+converter+install#p6331 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=617&p=2569&hilit=700r4#p2569 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=857&p=1332&hilit=+700r4#p1332 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=3117&p=8322&hilit=700r4#p8322 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=913&hilit=cooler+bye+pass#p913

youll generally want to keep trans fluid under 170F , if youve got a trans fluid temp gauge it will help http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=176 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662

I passed a car accident recently that was obviously the result of a car on a trailer that rolled off the trailer while in transport, this could very easily have been avoided by correctly securing the car on the trailer getting the car up on the trailer can be a challenge at times , especially if its not running or the brakes don,t work ,so think it thru and do it safely, BTW its almost ALWAYS a mistake to try an load a car with FLAT TIRES, or ramps that are too short to provide the correct angle and clearance, on a trailer as this reduces the under car clearance to the point its almost guaranteed to cause under the car damage, during the load process, so even if the car does not run have a drive train, or a running engine ,you'll need to have at least 4 tires that are fully inflated as you load the car or your asking for problems, its STUPID to cause damage that will need to be repaired at your expense if a bit of care taken during the loading process will avoid it. its even dumber to fail to securely tie down the car, during transport, a sudden need to brake or turn can cause you thousands of dollars in damage or a law suit if the car comes off during transport, or rolls off the trailer into your car or someone elses in traffic obviously having the correct accessories and trailed design helps[/size][/color] if its your trailer have a dozen strong cargo loops (D RINGS) welded into the trailer frame and at least 4 more on the car frame of your race car. have at least 4 tie down ratchets,and /or a few sections of 3/8" chain with hooks http://www.harborfreight.com/9200-lb-ratcheting-load-binder-5511.html http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-x-14-ft-grade-43-truckers-chain-40462.html http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/D-Rings-D-Ring-Tie-downs/Lashing-Ring-Weld-On-1-2-x-12-000-Lbs-Forged-Mounting-Ring http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=845&p=9656&hilit=trailer+lights#p9656

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http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1800&p=5526#p5526 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2376 first Id point out that a simple spot/TACK welding if done with a typical arc welder leaves a brittle weld in some cases, and that BRAZING the complete joint is the PREFERRED method of locking the pick-up tube to the pump body next, Id suggest a TIG or MIG weld but brazing is a bit more flexible adding a brace and brazing it to the pick-up tube and use loc-tite on the bolt threads helps durability brittle welds cause problems, and welding cast iron to mild steel is difficult, or darn near impossible at times ,the oil pump pick-up tends to vibrate at some engine speeds and over time it will weaken the joint if thats not braced or supported with a second support point, welding or brazing a brace and bolting it on the pump body helps, but a brazed connection tends to be a bit more flexible. many guys seat the tube with a hammer and flat screw driver blade against the rib on the pick-up tube shoulder with the result that it caused stress risers and the pick-up fails eventually, even if fully supported but fully supported bolt on pick-up designs are less likely to fail in 40 plus years of building engines IVE NEVER seen a PROPERLY brazed and braced oil pump pick-up come loose, just remember to remove the spring and piston from the pressure regulating bye-pass and let the parts slowly air cool before lubricating and re-assembling the components. BRAZE ROD MELTS at well OVER 800F and done correctly has a tensile strength of 50,000 PLUS psi when used, on clean metal surfaces http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing http://www.weldguru.com/braze-cast-iron.html

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If your starting out thinking you want to be a professional mechanic, you really need to get some schooling and certifications before anything else or your very unlikely to get hired,tool will be important but get the schooling, degrees first, if your just doing it as a hobby,thats a different ball game, in either case, a lot of guys will tell you MAC and SNAP-ON tools are the better choices but let me point out that , the whole idea behind being a mechanic is about a mix of KNOWLEDGE and SKILL used in diagnosing and knowing whats wrong from a few tests, one of the more common mistakes I see guys make is getting far in debt for an impressive tool box and some tools before they start making a reasonable profit. my advise would be to keep a constant watch on craigs list and the local bargain trader magazines , and visit local pawn shops, for a complete tool set, or partial tool sets, from some retiring mechanic or mechanics widow that you can pick up for 40-60 cents OR LESS on the dollar Ive seen several freinds buy complete filled snap-on or mac, tool chests at estate sales for $4000-$8000 that would very easily cost 4 times that amount if each item was purchased individually, you can frequently pick up small handfuls of used major brand name life-time guarantee wrenches at yard sales and pawn shops for far less than list prices kobalt, stanley SK craftsman, mac, HUSKY snap-on, all make some decent tools youll find most sets include a good deal of small tools that build up the component count making it appear that your getting a good value, but they are seldom used, youll want a good set of SAE & metric open end and box end wrenches several 3/8" and 1/2" ans 1/4 ratchets with both deep and shallow sockets, for each size drive,(preferably in 6 point, in most cases) an assortment of torqx bits and Allen keys and ignition wrenches and screw drivers,a decent torque wrench, and multi meter won,t hurt either, but only buy the small stuff and the larger tools as you need them heres a really nice basic starter set http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00935309000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6 but ID bet most of us started off with a less expensive set like this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00933200000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 I know I did RELATED THREADS http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1502 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=3283 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=834&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=tool+list http://www.maxprocorp.com/store.asp?pid=25738&catid=19940&gclid=CO6e4ei-xKUCFZRe7AodbQzOYA http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/scrp_0803_calibrating_a_torque_wrench/index.html http://www.ehow.com/how_5622566_calibrate-torque-wrench.html http://www.sacskyranch.com/torquew.htm http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=342&p=418&hilit=+torque+wrench#p418 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989&p=1744&hilit=+torque+wrench#p1744

theres no reason you can,t convert to a one wire alternator if you do the required modifications to your wiring in the car, read this http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml these guys sell an alternator Ive used on several corvettes with excellent results http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c-4913-200-amp.aspx one wire http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c-7305-200-amp.aspx good related info http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=355&p=436#p436 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1169&p=5267&hilit=corvette+alternator#p5267

yes its possible for cam lobes to wear slightly or wear slowly effecting power, its even more common for valve springs to loose tension over time and get into loss of valve control at lower rpms as the springs age and loose tension, or rings to loose a higher percentage of the cylinders compression seal as they wear. the edelbrock vic jr has been a bit restrictive in my experience,as the runner entrance angle and port cross sectional areas, not idea. you can normally gain a few hp with an open 2" spacer but if you had the room for the open 2" spacer you would have more than likely installed the keith darton intake.

Ive found the edelbrock, vic jr to be one of the LEAST effective SBC single plane intake designs and the Keith darton wieand , and edelbrock super vic , and rpm air gap intakes to be some of the better designs http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/?rtype=7 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7501/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7501/?rtype=7 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=392&p=479#p479 I sure wish you were local, Id be glad to help you sort out the car & engine youll want to get a wide band fuel/air gauge or look at reading plugs a bit, because youll want to be running about a 12.8:1 f/a ratio http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=202&p=7854&hilit=+fuel+air+ratio+gauge#p7854 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1853&p=4848&hilit=+fuel+air+ratio+gauge#p4848 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=109 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1853&p=4848&hilit=+air+fuel+meter#p4848 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2891&p=9279&hilit=plugs+ratio#p9279 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=109 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=773 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=383&p=2301&hilit=+power+valve+vacuum#p2301 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=777&p=4546&hilit=+power+valve+vacuum#p4546 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1790&p=4544&hilit=+holley+cam+pump#p4544 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1639&p=4545&hilit=+power+valve+vacuum#p4545 THESE THREADS SHOULD HELP

if your thinking about a lift, do the research don,t just look at price http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/251836/post/2003690/hl/read/fromsearch/1/#2003690 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=98 any lift worth having will have this sticker, any lift without that sticker is more than likely import junk that can,t pass safety testing watch this

Ive got 4 different types of QUALITY welders,(TIG,MIG,ARC,OXY/ ACETYLENE, ) and a 2500 lb mill, (with added accessories)and cheap drill press, and a 12 ton hydraulic press, a lift for the cars and a 2600sq ft shop,but its taken 45 plus years to get to that point but I can,t as YET afford a decent LATHE, but Im always looking for that great deal

how many guys have or at least want..some of the larger machine tools in their shop? HAVING a mill and lathe is a HUGE ADVANTAGE (theres links on lathe operation in these threads) now obviously many guys never get to the point in the hobby where they get into fabricating custom parts many guys get by with hand tools and maybe a drill press, but for those guys that might want to experiment or know they can make a better part, youll require a few tools like a decent TIG WELDER,or MIG WELDER , a MILL,DRILL PRESS,AND A LATHE your choices are almost endless and the chances of buying really good USED equipment , from a business that's moving or closing or upgrading,if you keep looking around and researching your options are excellent. theres a tendency to buy the least expensive tools when first starting out, but that's seldom a great idea, you sure don,t want to spend the cash for top of the line tools when your first starting out either because you can very easily spend many multi thousands of dollars on basic tools and required tooling and accessories, that you'll seldom use in many cases,so think thru your needs. but remember if you have the tools and acquire the skills there a great deal of satisfaction, in building custom parts and theres potential money to be made heres some basic choices,in the larger and more expensive shop tools many of us would love to own, your needs may be far different but you can do about 99% of auto related work with these tools, and yes I'm fully aware that for many guys this is just a dream list, and for some of the more skilled the list contains less than top of the line imports that are not ideal for more than hobby use. http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907321 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K1855-4 http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Speed-17-Floor-Drill-Press/G7947 http://www.grizzly.com/products/Milling-Machine-w-Power-Feed/G6760 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907422 http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-x-22-Bench-Top-Metal-Lathe/G0602 a basic working lathe , drill press and mill,suitable for a good deal of auto work can be purchased NEW at a reasonable cost, every shop needs at least a decent drill press, and a decent welder http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=970&p=2373&hilit=+drill+press#p2373 and HAVING a mill and lathe is a HUGE ADVANTAGE http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2198&p=5909&hilit=+milling+machine#p5909 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=993&p=4129&hilit=+milling+machine#p4129 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2198&p=5909&hilit=+milling+machine#p5909 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=993&p=4129&hilit=+milling+machine#p4129

Ive used them in the past, If you can keep the cool air tubes free from road crud blocking them they help, the problem is that keeping the hole clear is a bit more difficult than you might think if you live in an area with dirt roads or (MUD DOBBER WASPS) http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=662&p=910#p910

can anyone tell me the manufacturer of these aluminum wheels? (15"diam. x 10" wide 3.125" back space) I had a gentlemen request some help , finding the manufacturer but as yet my resources have not located the manufacturer any help greatly appreciated sorry about the picture size I can,t seem to reduce it

Obviously the truck towing the trailer should have great brakes weight at least what the loaded trailer weights,a truck that has 4 doors and room for 4-5 adults is a big plus while towing. a 4x4 truck can be a huge help under some conditions. Ive used a crew cab dually f350 ford for several years and that worked very well, my current Chevy avalanche is great, but strictly as a tow truck the f350 had advantages

this is not a guessing game, having a good understanding of what your looking at and a few basic tools will provide more info, http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html throw a vacuum gauge on the plenum under the carb and run the engine at w.o.t. under load and get a reading if its higher than about 2 inches of vacuum you might benefit from a slightly larger carb. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=777 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=2994

might be the welding helmet was a factor