grumpyvette

I also love the way a correctly tuned dual quad set up sounds and runs, dual quads are seldom used in my opinion mostly becuase most guys won,t take the time to learn how to tune them, its not because theres any power loss! in fact I regularly make excellent power with dual quads the problem is NOT tuning the dual quads, that can be done very easily with experiance , the reason many low rise dual quad systems don,t make the potential peak power is the RUNNER length, twisting routes,and differant runner lengths/ design and cross sectional area of the intake designs, like this which,while they work great in the mid rpm ranges don,t produce peak power the design tends to restrict/break up, air flow and the ram effect that pacts the cylinders at high rpms and effect flow rate changes beween cylinders compared to a single plane design with its LONGER and STRAITER ports but there are dual quad intakes with longer/straiter runners THere ARE EXCEPTIONS that work reasonable well! like the cross ram intakes above! read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm now THATS not true on the better TUNNEL RAM intake designs BUT hood clearance and thier designed effective rpm range cause them to be less than IDEAL on the average street car the reason DUAL QUADS were popular years ago was that large flow CFM single 4 barrel carbs were not available,at that time,HOLLEY had not yet produced the DOMINATOR carbs, that could flow 1250 CFM,if your engine needed 850cfm-1200 PLUS cfm, in the early 60s you were either using a DUAL quad or similar multi carb system or you were NOT getting the flow rates you needed,or you were stuck with QUADRAJETS, or the smaller HOLLEYS in most cases and yes your correct two smaller carbs with eight throttle bores can and do allow a very precise high velocity port flow when properly set up,Ive had several engines running dual quads run VERY respectable times in the low 10s, in a STREET DRIVEN CARs once SLICKS and OPEN headers were used at the track

your correct ,most 305 heads use small valves and small ports, that will restrict a 350 noticably in the upper rpm ranges this may help http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm as will swapping to a better intake manifold ,but theres nothing you can do to a set of standard 305 chevy cast heads that will allow them to make power like a decent set of the better designed aftermarket heads, the ports and valves in the stock heads jwith thire 155cc-167cc ports and 1.94"-/1.5" valves just can,t support the flow levels a 2.02"/1.6" valve config and a 175cc-200cc port will. if your like most of us Im sure MONEYS a major problem, but the correct combo of heads, cam , compression ratio,and intake can make a huge differance in the power curve, Id start saving for a set of good heads, theres no real rush, but once you install them youll be amazed at the change in the engines performance

worth reading http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm

ok , having built a few 318s, 340s, and 383s and 440 mopars over the years Ive got to say theres no reason to think you can,t get a correctly built 360 to run well, perhaps the info belo will assist you http://carcraft.com/techarticles/76858/ http://carcraft.com/techarticles/76858/index1.html http://popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/mopar/smallblock/0506em_410/index1.html http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-821934431

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110913&highlight=dynamic+compression

if that really was his responce your assesment seems correct..hes not the only total F%&&** when I was planning my garage I stopped by a guys house I didn,t know who had just built a similar garage, on the corner of a busy street, I walked up to his front door and inquired if I could talk to him about who did the plans and work, the guy acted, like I was asking permission to burn down his house and rape his wife, he ordered me off the property and told me never to return, it was his garage and not my bussiness . yeah theres total #$%^&&* everywhere

Head flow & results on a 383 CHEVY high performance mag for aug 2006 did an interesting comparison between eight different cylinder heads available for $1000 or less. While youll need to read the article to get all the data, I found it very interesting. The articles called “ POWER CURVES†and it starts on pg 22 http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/toc/ch_toc/index.html Heres a few differant different articles http://chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0601ch_head/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0401_imp/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/97538/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/83858/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_thunder/ http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93863/index2.html the main factors you should notice is that ENGINE DISPLACEMENT MATTER TO THE RESULTS, port size(cc)IE the difference between a 175cc to a 230cc) has far LESS effect on the power curve and peak power that the AIR FLOW, and that flow rates measured at lifts above where the CAM reaches its max lift, and has little to no effect on the power curve, the cams duration and lift and LCA effect the results, the combustion chamber design and valve size DOES matter. And the intake and exhaust design and flow rates DO EFFECT the power curve.

http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/ hows 1300 plus hp strike you guys in an dual engine swap

now I thought about that (THE ROPE GETTING TANGLED )and worried about that at first, but in thirty plus years and dozens of engines Ive never had it happen ...yet,(maybe IM lucky).. but then Ive never used nylon or anything but 3/8' cotton rope, and its fairly stiff it tends to coil in the cylinder bore, while Im sure its possiable Ive never had it happen...YET. Like I stated < IVE used BOTH air pressure and ROPE, both have advantages...AND potential problems

now most shops will rotate the cylinder to TDC and install an adapter for an air hose and pump a steady 100-130psi into the cylinder to hold the valves closed, but theres frequently clearance problems with headers and the adapters or hose and since you need to wack the valve retainer with a plastic hammer at times to get them free....... yeah, IVE use air pressure frequently, BUT IVE NEVER TRUSTED air pressure ....and HATE paying rental fees.....if you don,t have the adapters or compressor,ETC. Ive usually prefered the old method of manually turning the cylinder to bottom dead center and removing the spark plug, then inserting about 10 feet of 3/8" cotton rope into the cylinder(TIE A KNOT in the end to prevent it from falling ALL the way in) then spin the engine MANUALLY (NOT WITH THE STARTER) to as close to TDC,as the crank will spin. this compresses the rope into a wad that supports the valve physically preventing its movement, down into the cylinder, once the valve springs replaced , you rotate the cylinder to BDC and remove the rope, proceed to the next cylinder BTW I vastly prefer these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66784&N=%2D114082+115&autoview=sku to these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MAN%2D41830&N=%2D114082+115&autoview=sku but if you use an air compressor youll NEED these http://www.tavia.com/cat15.html

heres some differant calculators http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2 http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/cranking_pressure.shtml http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm average the results from ALL the calculators... any single calculator will tend to give you fauly info compared to averaging the five answers

I was ASKED...... "Ever started a job and then realised... You probably have neither the skills or the tools required to complete it?'" I almost CHOKED LAUGHING at THAT!!!! THATS CALLED THE LEARNING CURVE theres not a serious hot rodder that does not find himself in that predicament REGULARLY, THATs the REASON this HOBBY is so ADDICTING , you GAIN BOTH, REAL AUTOMOTIVE SKILLS AND ACQUIRE TOOLS OVERCOMING THAT PROBLEM and GET a HUGE SENCE OF ACCOMPLISHMENT, and as a bonus you EVENTUALLY get to drive a customized car thats significantly faster than anything you can buy at nearly the price level AND have increased your skill level to levels you thought you would never reach! and on the plus side you get to fix a wide range of other cars whhen your friends realize you have those skills and tools

pparaska I hope the surgery goes well,long term,what you feel durring the first few months may or may not stabilize, and your getting up and around with zero pain,in a few months time, DAMN I KNOW LOWER BACK PAIN ONLY TOO WELL... I think MOST of us have done some dumb stuff involving lifting heavy stuff in the garage,(I once pulled a 427 bbc out of a camaro with two other guys simply by stapping a chain over a 8 ft long 4x4 bolted to the engine,layed on the fenders and manually lifting the ends of the 4x4 over my head with the help of two other guys and walking the engine out of the engine bay, ONCE,, naturally I had the end of the 4x4 with only one guy lifting, I paid for that stupid move for MONTHS) thats something like 580 lbs devided by 3= about 200 lbs each untill you realize that your end weights closet to 300LBS, now Im a fairly large guy at 6'3" and 250lbs and could lift about 270lbs at the time and dropping an engine on the car durring the engine removal was not an option, but it was one of the dumbest things I ever did, I bought the best engine crane money could buy after that stupid move! it cost me a full weeks wages at that time,and it was worth every dime! It cost PEANUTS compared to the pain later, caused by being stupid and cheap at the time in my case, but I learned... heres a similar engine crane,(they no longer sell the exact model I purchased as it got to expensive) http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_19703_19703

your NOT unique... my son ran a 2" drywall screw thru his thumb while trying to screw a QUARTER to the door frame (NO I DON,T UNDERSTAND WHY EITHER) he walked into my bedroom with the screw thru his thumb, I told him to go get the screw gun, and proceeded to reverse the screw out, then ran the S$%%^ TO the local walk in clinic, I guess doing a few stupid things while growing up is a mandatory phase

the swap to the RPM intake and 750cfm carb is a good idea! get your F/A ratio closer to about 12.7-13.0:1 all the way thru the rpm band. you didn,t mention your rear gear ratio , header type/size or the engines static compression ratio, but Id bet I could pick a better cam sellection if I knew those! while Ive had decent results a few times with that comp 274 xe theres much better choices if MAX hp is the goal.PROVIDED the rest of the components also match the cams potential

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/98359/ http://www.dapa.org/jhpages/pontiac-cams.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/blockID.html http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/cranks.htm http://www.pontiacs.org/ http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/shootout/hppp_0606_pontiac_shootout/index1.html'>http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/shootout/hppp_0606_pontiac_shootout/index1.html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/v8displace..html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camselect.html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rockers.html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camquickref.html http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/pontiacengineid/pontengid1.html http://www.bassettracing.cz28.com/custom3.html http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/bloccast.htm http://www.pontiacpower.com/Crank4250.htm http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/heads.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/headpont.html http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/72278/index10.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/pontiac/0209PHREMPontiac/ http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/2.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/3.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/4.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/5.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/6.html http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/10.html http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camquickref.html http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/camshafts.htm'>http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/camshafts.htm http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/cams_pontiac.html http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/carb2.html http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/carbs.htm http://www.pontiactripower.com/ http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0302_SRTriII/'>http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0302_SRTriII/ http://www.ramairrestoration.com/ http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4716958DD198651-Headers-Accy.aspx http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/man_pont.html http://www.krepower.com/ http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/ http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/ http://www.classicfirebird.com/hand/hand.html if your carefull you can get decent results out of a set of PORTED cast stock pontiac heads , youll need to do the typical mods like opening up the ports to the gaskets and blending the combustion chamber edges to the head gaskets and narrowing the valve stem boss,ETC. http://www.pontiacpower.org/ultimateflow.htm http://www.pontiacs.org/modules.php?name=headchart (they won,t work nearly as well as the edelbrocks) BUT YOU CAN REACH THAT 400HP LEVEL. THE INTAKE AND BETTER CONNECTING RODS ARE JUST ABOUT MANDATORY, THE STOCK INTAKE IS RESTRICTIVE AND THE STOCK RODS ARE WEAK good replacement rods are cheap and easily twice as strong as stock rods http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/455-400-3...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4340-Pont...sspagenameZWDVW this intake is very noticably less restrictive http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2957&N=115&autoview=sku getting the compression up to 10.0-10.5:1 and useing the better rods cam and intake makes a VERY noticable improvement, pontiac respond to high compression,good intakes and the combo of headers and cam matched to that higher cpr...they generally WON,T MAKE good power over about 6000rpm-6500rpm and pushing stock rods over 5800rpm is a good way to have a large oil leak where the block failed to stop the rods exit trajectory

first I think YOUR dreaming if you think that with todays current labor and material costs youll build a 28' x32' or larger garage for $25,000 EVEN IF YOU DO 90% of the WORK yourself, ID strongly suggest getting FIRM BIDS with ALL DATES AND MATERIALS LISTED and PERMIT COSTS figured BEFORE YOU START....I just built a 36' x 74' garage and it cost in excess of 100K now Ill FREELY admit I did everything FIRST class and 2700sq feet is a whole lot larger than 900 sq feet your talking about but I think youll be closer to $35,000 even cutting alot of corners,UNLESS your refering to a steel prefab building, on a concrete slab, now I built my dream garage and I CERTAINLY would like EVERYONE to BUILD THIER DREAM GARAGE, but IM forced to point out that CAREFULL FINANCIAL, PRIOR PLANING will help prevent MANY PROBLEMS......SOMETHING I learned the hard way!!! yes you can build a garage for that estimated cost, but be aware that once you start things tend to spiral upwards cost wise! and asking contractors for an ESTIMATE is basically a BAD JOKE, because EVERY DAMN ONE CAME CLOSE TO DOUBLING thier ESTIMATED PRICE once you PINNED them into a CONTRACT with due dates to meet, and scheduals and materials PLEASE don,t think IM RAINING ON YOUR PARADE! thats the VERY LAST THING I intend, I only want you to be aware of a HUGE differance between VERBAL ESTIMATES & MATERIAL COST ESTIMATES VS REALITY, once you start building these may help http://www.archwaypress.com/browse.php/ca311db0033aba7c5f6563c8c7253920.html http://www.generalsteel.com/ http://www.usbuildingsdirect.com/a-model-steel-buildings.htm http://garageplans.hsh.com/ http://www.justgarageplans.com/index_garage.php http://www.behmdesign.com/ http://www.hometime.com/store2/p_garage.htm http://www.10000homeplans.com/garage_gallery.html http://www.americansteelspan.com/?source=googleppc http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/requestbid/default.aspx http://www.alliedbuildings.com/project_quote.php?sendroicid=4ca9a5ff-f0e9-4fa7-998d-1b89b3c24a81&sendroikwd=steel+buildings be aware that it ALWAYS costs much more than the first estimate BTW http://www.usbuildingsdirect.com/a-model-steel-buildings.htm these guys sold my neighbor a 30 x 60 garage kit,(model A) it looks nice, held up in three hurricanes , and cost well under 1/2 what my garage cost, but he did the TOTAL INSTALL including the slab himself

heres an old post that will answer most questions if you read thru the links in 35 years of engine building and racing I have not yet seen any increase in power or relieability or any other advantage to increasing the spark plug gap to more than the .043-.045 gap, and regularly gap my corvettes at .043-.045 reguardless of ignition system used, and I use VERTEX MAGNETOS and MSD, and HOLLEY ignitions extensively , and used to use the HEI and points ignitions in the past,, I have seen a reduction in power using under .040 or over .047 in some applications side gapping plugs can help ignitions VERY SLIGHTLY in some APPLICATIONS asking for spark plug info..SO!... http://performanceunlimited.com/illustrations/sparkplugs.html the plugs are normally done (the electrodes cut back)with a dremel tool cutting disk a few places to look for more info on plugs http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html http://www.powerarc.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/64378/ http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/spark_plugs/s_plug_faq.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp http://www.powerarc.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html http://www.answers.com/topic/spark-plug

HEAT, MOISTURE AND VIBRATION are ALL potential problems that you don,t need to suject the MSD control box to if you can avoid them , mounting the box up under the dash in the pass side foot well is a comon location that you might think about with a rubber grommit protecting the wires passing thru the firewall as dat240zg suggested. if you must sellect a location in the engine compartment ID strongly suggest keeping it as high up and as far away from the exhaust heat and road moisture sources as you can and placeing it where its not likely to be vibrated constantly

sounds like its time to do a few BASIC CHECKS like a CYLINDER LEAK DOWN test (first) and then if nothings obviously wrong,check the timing and carb settings, adjust the valves, check for coolant and vacuum leaks, ETC http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/leaktst.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0406_leak/ http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=20953 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D66839&N=316864+115&autoview=sku

once youve got the ignition timing and valves adjusted and the carburator adjustments at least close to correct...and youve checked for coolant levels and vacuum leaks and potential sources of over heating or rought running,problems, like low coolant, low oil, no fan,loose belts, loose hoses,and the correct fuel pressure,float levels etc. you can decide if you want to brake it in driving or stationary, if stationary placing a garden hose to run water thru the radiators fins to absorb heat is a good idea start it up and watch the gauges carefully, if youll drive the car,carry a cell phone if your going to drive more than around your block,and its a good idea to have a friend follow in a second car... changing the oil and oil filter after the first few hours to remove acumulated metalic dust, assembly lube, gasket cement,and general crud in the oil is a VERY GOOD IDEA! no mater what break-in method you choose to use! taking it easy on the engine by keeping it under about 5000rpm for the first 30 minutes while the parts lap in is smart!,yet you want the rings to seal quickly so don,t BABY the engine, run it under loads at times,THAT DOES NOT mean drag race the car for the first few miles , but it does mean that accellerating briskly like you might getting on to an expressway ramp is a good idea. and if your breaking in a flat tappet cam youll want to keep the rpms above about 2000rpm and varing constantly between 2000rpm-about 3500rpm most of the time,to get the cam to lap in correctly. its also a good idea to ad a can of GM EOS to the mix of oil in the pan and a good mineral base oil like shell, or valvoline. As far as the actual cam breakin lube, what you want is a stiff, black moly-fortified assembly lube for the cam/lifter interface. Any good one that fits the bill will do the job, but one I like a lot(as do many others), is the "isky rev lube". This is good stuff that surely fits the bill well. E.O.S. in the oil, and MOLY ASSEMBLY grease on the cam and lifters http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...chItemId=118243 I normally pour it in just before starting the engines cam break in,procedure. because I want to make sure that nothing in the oil/E.O.S. mix can settle out from sitting over a long period of time. now if your running a flat tappet cam you should have also used a moly cam lube on the lobes and be useing a mineral base oil for the break-in procedure, and youll need to do an oil and filter change after about the first 2-3 hours running time (vary the load and rpms constantly, but keep between 2000rpm -5000rpm) to remove that moly cam lube from the engine after its served its purpose of protecting the cams lobes and lifters at start up, aND AS THE LOBES/LIFTERS LAPPED IN. MOSTLY to prevent that moly grease and E.O.S from potentially partially clogging the filter after that mix cools down,but also because both those lubes might leave deposites in the combustion chamber ,over time that might aggravate detonation. even G.M. suggests that E.O.S. is not a great long term oil suppliment, and that its main function is to add extra oil film strength durring new engine break in. 1052367 ENGOILSUP EOS - Engine Assembly Prelube Specifically formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. E.O.S. provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication don,t forget a few magnets in the oil pan goes a long way towards trapping unwanted metalic dust formed from the cam and rings lapping in durring break-in that might otherwise get imbedded in your bearings or cause other problems heres the magnets I use in every engine http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0035 you might want to read thru this http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=2 FROM MORTEC If you are building a big block Chevy with a flat tappet cam, (solid or hydraulic lifters) be careful during the initial engine break in. It is very easy to lose a cam lobe and lifter during initial break in. This is especially true with a higher than stock lift cam and higher pressure valve springs. The increased pushrod angles found on the BBC and poor preparation can make cam lobe failure after initial fireup a distinct possibility. You can help prevent this cam lobe failure by making sure the engine is prelubed prior to intial fireup. Use a good high pressure lube on the cam lobes and lifter bottoms during assembly. If possible use a lighter pressure stock valve spring (or if using a valve spring with multiple springs, take out some of the inner springs) to intially run the engine. Then switch to the heavier pressure springs after break in. When the engine is first fired up, keep the engine rpms at 2,500 or above, don't let the engine idle for 20 minutes or longer. This keeps lots of oil splashing up on the cam lobes. Make sure the engine can be run for this time period by having enough fuel available, ignition timing set correctly, coolant available for the motor, valve lash set correctly, etc. The idea is not to crank the motor over excessively before it starts up for the first time. If your BBC flat tappet cam survives this initial break in period, it will be good to go for many miles. After the initial engine breakin, drain the oil and change the oil filter. Roller cams generally do not suffer these types of cam lobe failures during initial engine fireup. if youve adjusted the valves correctly the lifter spins at all rpm levels,but that does NOT mean it wears EVENLY at all rpm levels due to several factors if you look closely AT FLAT TAPPET CAMS youll see that the center of the cam lobe is NOT centered under the lifter and that the lifter surface is slightly angled , BOTH these factors force the lifter to spin in its bore as the lobe passes under the lifter slightly off center. SOME of the reasons the higher rpm durring the break in phase is important is that (1) the faster RPMs the better chances the lobe passes under the lifter floated on an oil film and the less time the oil film has to squeeze out between them (2) the higher the RPM the greater the oil voluum and pressure the engine pumps and the more oil flow is available at the lobes (3)the higher the rpm level the more oil is thrown from the rods onto the cam lobes (4)the higher the rpm the greater the lifters weight and inertia tends to compensate for the springs pressure and lower the net pressure as the lifter passes over the cam lobes nose (5) at higher rpm speed the better chance a small wedge of oil is trapped between the lifter base and lobe from the oil thrown from the lobes surface by centrifical force (6) two differant metal surfaces scraping past each other at low speeds may tend to wear and GALL as the oil is sqeezed out but two differant hardness steel surfaces that impact each other at higher speeds covered with oil tend to work harden as they mate and will tend to be seperated by that oil (7)as the lifter spins in its bore the contact point between the lobe and lifter base constantly changes and rotates with the lobe contact point not resisting its passage and the higher the rpms the faster the lifter rotates and the less time the lobe spends at any one point VALVOLINE BRAND RACING OIL HAS THE HIGH ZINK/PHOSPHATE LEVELS that help prevent cam wear

"Must be nice to have money" "Must be nice to have (HAD SOME) money would be closer" BUT NOT ANY MORE! since I spent it on that GARAGE and needed a MORGAGE to swing the deal...........it always comes down to PRIORITIES BTW I had this change in the paint scheme suggested, while Im not sure the neighbors would approve I thought it was a cute thought

what are your current engine specs(cpr,intake,carb,header specs,ETC.) and dyno results???? where in the RPM range are you lacking the desired power increase? whats your gearing,trans,and tires? whats the current combos best times? you can,t expect to make meaningful improvements without having a good idea EXACTLY where your current combo needs improvement

well I got it painted, and YEAH thats the OLD GRUMPY GUY HIMSELF in the garage picture

http://www.donovanengineering.com/Blocks/SmallBlock.html http://www.worldcastings.com/newstuff3.html http://www.dartheads.com/sbclittlem.aspx http://www.brodix.com/Alum%20Small%20Block.html http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfpartsjsp/partlist.jsp?cat=9370&section=ep http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DRT%2D31112232&N=400333+312759+115&autoview=sku