grumpyvette

"what about the aluminum heads?" you just J&B weld/ epoxy to the clean dry oil free surface on the heads near the oil return holes the magnets too the heads in a location that will not block the oil return flow or cause mechanical interfearance with the rockers or valve covers, ETC. but allows the magnet to suck any metalic dust from the oil flow

http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_37&products_id=67 http://www.amazingmagnets.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=75 http://www.amazingmagnets.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=90 any of these will work reasonably well

"are they really as strong as you say?" LASON, buy four,too place in your engine! THEN let me know what you think! if you don,t think, after playing with them for a few minutes that they are significantly stronger than most magnets,and as strong as I said, Ill buy them from you at the same price the site charges,as long as they are in good condition, (I use them constantly, no engine leaves my shop without them)

heres a great example of a seriously worn lifter , from an engine that wiped its cam on break-in, where do you think all that metalic trash went?,and (trust me IT rarely only one lobe) look closely at the sides of that lifter.....notice the wear the trash in the oil did even durring that brief time! this is a good example of why ID also strongly suggest adding 4 of these magnets (below)(these are NOT your comon magnets ,ONE will pick up a sbc cylinder head) http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0035 to your engine as they do a great job of trapping and holding metalic trash in your oil, preventing it from reaching your bearings, and NO ,before you ask, the OIL FILTER RARELY traps more than about 90% of the trash in the oil in a single trip thru the filter and the bye-pass circuit tends to open slightly even with new clean filters under hard accelleration I normally place one in the rear of each cylinder head and one on the bottom of the oil pan near the drain, and one near the oil return in the lifter valley, to trap trash if something fails. you won,t believe the trash stuck to them after a few months, on even an engine thats running perfectly, but on an engine with a cam and lifters that fail they can easily be the differance between a total loss and a rebuilable core

keep the engine above 2500rpm and below about 5000rpm for the first 50 miles or for 2 hours, while you test drive and look for leaks, overheating ETC. remember to accellerate briskly up to 5000rpm, (no thats not meant as your to race the car or speed shift) and change the load on the engine frequently to let the rings seat, mostly to allow parts to lap in and the clearances to stabilize ,then change the oil and filter,to remove the crud that accumulates in the oil durring the break-in procedure, then drive it like youll use it! if it was assembled correctly thats all thats necessary

Okimoto this may be so obvious that your overlooking it! theres a few MILLION places in the USA that cost less to live at and have better parking than southern california, now I know your thinking you can,t move, or find a new job anda zillion other reasons, but its all BS. you can move to a much better lower taxes enviorment IF YOU REALLY wanted too, and in the long run its going to be a good idea.most guys are afraid of change ....but southern california with it high taxes,high crime,and insane houseing costs is far from the best place to live, if your willing to work hard,places as close as nevada have much lower cost of living and much better parking ,all you need to do is make up your mind to do whatever it takes and MOVE! Id bet that in 5 years, youll wonder why you waited as long as you did, and kick yourself in the butt mentally for not moving sooner, if you do move! ten years ago I was making three times what I make per month and my morgage cost me less than 1/3 of what it does now, I moved, and it required a major life style change,but ID NEVER CONSIDER going back or changing, things are FAR BETTER in my new location, I did the research, I changed what needed to be changed and IM FAR better off now and have both lower stress and a much nicer home

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00211&x=36&y=4 if you only have 9.5 cpr to work with, and a potent daily driver with a noticable lope in the idle with great mid range power is the goal, this is a better match run the DD 2000 and see the differance compared to the orriginal choice if you can, post both graph power curve results, the orriginal; and the crower cam, Im sure the hp differance will be noticably better with the crower

"Specs: 355 (.03 overbore) chevy Alum Edelbrock Performer Heads w/ 2.02/1.6 valves Edelbrock Performer 400 Cam .442 lift / 214 Deg Duration Pistons/Compression????? -- Here I used 9.0 Shorty Square port headers, 2.5" exhaust w/ Dynomax BillZ260 why not boost the compression ratio to 10.5:1 and swap the cam to a crane 114681, I think youll notice a marked differance in results " http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5

personally.....if I can understand EXACTLY, what they are writing about,and its obvious its only occasional typos or mis-spelled words, Im fine with it! (hey I went to college! .....it SUCKED!, ESPECIALLY ENGLISH, CLASSES, but you know,I GOT THRU IT!, it was a necessary step in becomming an engineer). hell this is a car forum not a college english class and we,re here to discuss cars and related projects not critique spelling, IM more than willing to overlook minor stuff, lifes too short to be that ANAL in my opinion! as to the single letter (WORDS) like (U R)=(you are) or ubonics (DIZZY= DISTRIBUTOR) yeah its a P.I.T.A. to read at times, but I can live with it. IM more than willing to overlook minor stuff. lets let the SMALL STUFF SLIDE! and if it WON,T MATTER TO YOU A YEAR FROM NOW ITS SMALL STUFF! hey I make my share of typos, and its not going to cause the world to stop functioning any more that a few you may make!

any really SERIOUS road racing car is basically built around the frame,suspension and roll cage, and engine components and thier location in that frame/roll cage as the main concern with the drive train and arodynamics,weight transfer as major factors in the design. serious cars don,t add components to the stock factory design, rather they build a car that APPEARS to LOOK like the orriginal car with as much weight and non-functional sheet metal,interior,etc. removed as the sanctioning body allows you may want to read thru this http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/ at one time I was deeply involved in road racing corvettes, trust me when I say the majority of the factory parts in the car were replaced or removed with lighter weight and/or more efficient parts,even most of the frame and body components "LOOKED FACTORY" but were lighter and stronger (NEAR COPIES)

most of tthe comp cams (306)cams matched to 1.6:1 ratio rockers will be a disaster in an otherwise stock LT1 as the stock springs and valve train geometry won,t handle the lift with safe clearances. Im not sure which cam your looking at as comp cams lists 3 differant sbc (306) cams but in any case the CROWER 00471LM cam (about the absolute largest a basically stock shortblock can handle) and yes you need to get the springs and clearances checked/corrected http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=24&y=8 WITH THE MATCHING SPRINGS and clearance work NECESSARY and the mandatory drive train mods like rear gear ratio,and higher stall converter has proven to be an exceptionally effective cam in the LT1. I tend to stay away from ANY comp cams, cams as thier tech guys are rude frequently,and have given me bad advice on several occasions,keep in mind that the rest of the combo, stall speed, rear gear ratio,etc. must match the cams designed rpm range for it to work correctly,slapping a cam with a huge increase in durration and lift into an engine with no other mods is a sure path to building a dog! or worse, a combo that has clearance issues,that self destructs

you may want to read this (its the same for the L98/LT1) AND THE INFO IS FROM MY CORVETTE MANUALS and SEVERAL CORVETTE SITES, WHILE IT MAY OR MAY NOT BE YOUR PROBLEM IT APPEARS TO BE SUSPECT Fuel Rail Pressurization: When you first turn the key to the “on” position, the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds pressurizing the fuel rails. There is a Shraeder valve on the passenger side fuel rail near the rear of the engine and if you measure the pressure there after the pump runs, you should see between 40-42 pounds of pressure. The reading will go to 38-40 pounds nominal once the engine is running. Initial Crank Action: If you then rotate the key to the start position (assuming the anti-theft system has not disabled the starter), the engine will rotate. Once the oil pressure has reached 4 PSI, the oil pressure switch will close allowing the fuel pump to run. (Note that you should have a black oil pressure switch/sender. It is mounted behind the distributor on the driver’s side and if it is not black, it is suspect due to a run of bad units that stayed in the GM parts pipeline for some time). The distributor will send a string of pulses to the ECM (Engine Control Module) in response to the engine being rotated by the starter. These pulses continue as long as the engine turns (both starting and running) and if they are not present, the engine will not run. ECM Reaction: If the ECM sees oil pressure greater than 4 PSI and the reference pulses from the distributor, it will energize the injector drivers which will begin pulsing the injectors on for 4 ms (milliseconds) periods. (In the L98, all injectors on one side of the engine fire at the same time followed by all injectors on the other side firing at the same time. On the LT-1, the injectors are fired individually at the appropriate time). The ECM will also pull in the fuel pump relay in effect paralleling it electrically with the oil pressure switch. (If the fuel pump relay fails, you can still normally get the car to start and run unless you can’t make at least 4 PSI oil pressure. This is a “limp home mode” feature put in place to allow for a fuel pump relay failure). The ECM also monitors the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the throttle body assembly) and wants to see .54 volts at this time. If it sees appreciably more than 0.54 volts, it will assume the engine is flooded and the driver has pressed the accelerator to the floor to clear the flooded condition and restrict the fuel flow as a result. (.54 volts during start and at idle from the TPS is very important to both starting and run performance.) Assuming the ignition module is good (meaning there is a spark of sufficient intensity to ignite the fuel), the engine will “catch”. Engine "Catches": When the engine catches, the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor mounted just ahead of the throttle body) sends a signal to the ECM advising that air is flowing and also just how much air is being pulled through to the intake manifold. The ECM takes note of the amount of air being consumed and adjusts the injector pulse width to around 2.2 ms nominally so as to attain a proper air/fuel mixture to insure combustion. (This is how the 1985 through 1989 L-98 works. For information on the 1990 and 1991 L-98 variant, see the Note below). The engine should show an initial idle speed of around 900-1100 RPM and then slowly diminish to 600-700 RPM unless the air conditioner is on in which case it will run at around 800 RPM. If this does not happen, the Idle Air Mixture valve (located on the throttle body) may be misadjusted. Alternatively, there may be a leak in the intake manifold or another vacuum leak may be present. Listen for hissing sounds---there should be none. ECM Mode: The engine will now be in Open Loop mode meaning that the ECM is controlling the air/fuel mixture by referencing values stored in memory. Once the Oxygen sensor (mounted on the exhaust pipe) reaches operating temperature of several hundred degrees, the Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor shows an intake air temperature of more than 140 degrees and the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) has reached 160 degrees, the computer will switch to closed loop mode meaning the Oxygen sensor’s output is examined along with the MAT and ECT outputs and the ECM adjusts the injector pulse widths (more “on time” or less “on time”) to constantly strive for a 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture which is the best mixture to hold down pollution. Note that prolonged idling can force the computer back into open loop mode. Note: In 1990, the MAF was eliminated from the engine in favor of a speed/density system. This system uses a sensor called the MAP sensor which measures the Manifold Absolute Pressure (hence the name MAP) and compares it with the atmospheric pressure outside the intake manifold. This information, coupled with the Manifold Air Temperature, Engine Coolant Temperature and Engine RPM is used by the ECM to determine the amount of air entering the cylinders. It is a different way of reaching the desired 14.7:1 air-fuel mixture ratio but functionally is like the MAF system in that the ECM uses the feedback to control the "on time" for the injectors. Corvette used this approach in the 1990 and 1991 L-98 engines and in the 1992 and 1993 LT-1 engines. With the 1994 model C4, they went back to the MAF system. Note that MAF based systems are far more accurate since they measure air flow directly whereas the MAP system infers air flow indirectly. A multitude of things can throw the calculation off and Corvette returned to the MAF system beginning with the 1994 C4 (with a MAP backup). From a troubleshooting standpoint, the MAP operation comes into the sequence the same place that the MAF does. Summary: If you have a no start condition or if the L-98 starts and then dies, check the above items in sequence to see if all the events are occurring as required. A Scan Tool makes this job much easier and is a highly recommended troubleshooting aid for these sorts of problems. Most of the C4 Corvettes used a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor to determine how much air is being pulled into the intake manifold. The exceptions are the 1984 Corvette that used a speed density system--a sort of predictive method of measurement---and the 1990 through 1993 C4 models which were also speed density based. In 1994, Corvette went back to the MAF based system but used the speed density approach as a back up. (1989 Bosch MAF installation shown at right). A Mass Air Flow sensor has an extremely fine wire inside its bore. The 1985 through 1989 C4 engines used a Bosch MAF sensor that heated the wire to 100 C. The 1994 and later C4 models used a AC/Delco MAF that heated the wire to 200 C. The amount of current required to reach the temperature is measured in each case. (Note: the LT-5 engine used in the ZR-1 used a speed density system and continued to use that system in 1994 and 1995 since the engines had already been made prior to the last two years of production. The ZR-1 therefore has no MAF even after Corvette went back to the MAF based system). Theory of Operation As the air travels past the heated wire enroute to the intake manifold, it will cool the wire and additional current is added to again heat the wire to the design temperature. Since the amount of air moving past the sensor is directly related to the amount of cooling experienced by the heated wire, a feedback condition is established whereby the exact amount of moving air is directly related to the amount of current passing through the wire and the intake air is therefore precisely measured. Once the amount of air is known, the computer controlling the engine can add or subtract fuel as required to maintain the magic 14.7:1 air-fuel mixture resulting in the cleanest burn possible from an emissions (pollution) standpoint. It does this by varying the "on time" of the fuel injectors. The injectors are pulsed on and off and the width of the pulse is lengthened or shortened as required. When you first start a typical engine, the pulse width is around 4 milliseconds but as soon as the engine "catches" the pulse width is shortened to about 2.2 milliseconds for idle. During operation, the measured air flow through the MAF will cause the computer to increase or decrease the pulse width as explained above. MAF Operating Conditions The Bosch MAF is more complex than the AC/Delco version. Both measure the air flow but the Bosch MAF has a circuit called the 'burn-off circuit' that cycles on for about 2 seconds when you shut the engine down. This circuit heats the wire to a high enough temperature to burn off any residue that may have collected on the wire during operation. If you are in a quiet area, you can hear the relays click on and then off on a 1985-1989 C4 as the burn-off cycle occurs. There are two relays involved with the Bosch MAF: A power relay that passes current to the MAF wire during normal operation and the burn-off relay that provides the current for the cleaning cycle. Both are located on the firewall in the engine compartment, just behind the battery on the drivers side. Bad MAF power and burn-off relays can cause hard starting problems and should be changed periodically as preventative measure and any time you experience hard starting conditions. The AC/Delco MAF has a power relay but no burn-off relay. For this reason, you should pay even closer attention to the condition of your air filter on a later model C4 than normal since a contaminated wire in a AC/Delco MAF is going to stay contaminated for the most part and cause false signals to be passed to the computer. Also, the Bosch MAF outputs its information as a analog signal to the computer but the AC/Delco sends its signal as a digital component of varying frequency. For this reason, you cannot measure it's operation directly. A scan tool is generally the best way to troubleshoot engine problems and with the 1994 and later Corvette, it is virtually mandatory. (An oscilloscope will also work on the AC/Delco MAF but a regular test meter will not). MAF Problems Faulty MAF sensors will normally light the check engine light on the drivers information center if the problem is constant and store a trouble code. If intermittent, a trouble code will still be stored as long as the battery is not disconnected. Normally, the problem is a poor connection at the sensor and wiggling the wires, unplugging and reinserting the connector will often cure the problem. A faulty MAF will normally cause a no start or difficult start condition and although you can eventually get the car into the "limp-home" mode in most cases, you need to attend to the problem ASAP. AC/Delco sensors can become intermittent or give false readings if the wires become contaminated as explained above. The MAF is a critical part of the emission control system and as such will cause the computer to react to problems very quickly, setting trouble codes and reducing performance in ways that cannot be ignored for long. MAF Mods The Bosch MAF is often modified by removing the two screens that are present in the front and rear of the cylinder. Removing these screens significantly increases the air flow through them and this results in more horsepower. Removing the screens is an old trick from the Corvette Challenge days in 1988 and 1989. It does work but is illegal in many states so be advised not to do anything that will get you arrested for a pollution violation. The AC/Delco MAF is not readily modified. It is what it is but since it is a larger diameter than the Bosch, it responds well to changing the air filter to a free flowing type such as the K&N filter. Welcome to C4 vette codes it is very ....repeat very important that if you are not savvy of working on your vette ...you would be better off - taking your car to a dealership for repairs on your trouble codes. However if you feel that you want to dive right in ..than you have come to the right place.First locate your car's alcl this component is located just below the instrument panel and to the left of the center console. Remove the plastic cover the first two slots to your right are the A & B slots for a drawing of the alcl module's picture is added below. The A slot is the diagnostic slot and the B slot is the ground slot. insert the computer key into these slots (with the engine off) this is very important...now only put the ignition key to on ( not start !!!) the check engine light will display a code 12 which is one flash followed by two flashes. this code will be flashed three times ..followed by the trouble code stored in your car's computer. what ever the code is it will be flashed three times. have a paper and pencil ready and write down the code . code 13 =1 flash followed by 3 flashes =>oxygen sensor code 14 =1 flash followed by 4 flashes =>coolant sensor code 15 =1 flash followed by 5 flashes =>coolant sensor code 21 = 2 flashes followed by 1 flash =>throttle position sensor code 22 = 2 flashes followed by 2 flashes=> throttle position sensor code 23 = 2 flashes followed by 3 flashes=> manifold air temp sensor code 24 = 2 flashes followed by 4 flashes=> vehicle speed sensor code 25 = 2 flashes followed by 5 flashes=> manifold air temp sensor code 32 =>egr system code 33 =>map sensor code 34 =>maf sensor code 35 => idle air control code 41 => cylinder select error code 42 => electronic spark control code 43 => electronic spark control code 44 => lean exhaust code 45 => rich exhaust code 51 => PROM code 52 => fuel calpak code 53 => system over voltage code 54 => fuel pump circuit code 55 => ecm code 62 => oil temp please remember that if you have the computer key installed in the alcl and you start the engine ( you will ruin the engine's computer ) only put the ignition to on (not to start) If you should get a check engine soon display.. you can use the above procedure and codes to buy the right part or at the very least to keep from getting taken for a ride and be made to pay hight prices for some inexpensive module that you could have installed yourself. You never ask a barber if you need a haircut .. so you have to be on guard they will see you comming a mile away. If your engine displays a trouble code ... your engine will go into limp mode ..it will still run but very poorly. you might be able to reset the computer if it will not start ( just to get home ) by disconnecting both battery cables and re-installing them ...this is not recommended ..but if you are stranded it might help unitl you get your car home or to a repair shop..good luck

"what more could you ask for?" how about 815 cubic inches of ALUMINUM CHEVY HEMI!!!!! putting out well in excess of 1600hp............BEFORE you even think TURBO,.hey I can,t help being a big block guy! http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/products/engines/815-hemi.htm http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/support-images/engines/hemiengine.png

holley carbs a EXTREMELY SIMPLE to work on and tune, modify, rebuild, thats the main reeason the hot rodder crowd likes them http://www.themotorbookstore.com/holley-carburetors.html http://www.motorhaven.com/catalog/product_590_Holley_Rebuilding_and_Modifying.html

ok, here's what I've got thus far.... did you get the clearances checked, ---- yes, what we could with the engine already preassembled coil bind, ------ None rocker to rocker stud,clearance? ------ can't remember, but everything looked good prior to installation whats the retainer to valve guide clearance? ------ see above whats the valve to piston clearance?? -------unknown ok up to here your basically saying it was guessed at because it turned over without binding, or breaking parts, personally I can,t beleive your getting away with out problems on un-modifyed vortec heads did you do a compression check on ALL 8 cylinders? ---- today, 145psi all around good at least its consistant have you checked CAREFULLY the cam lift to see if a lobes worn? ---- cam was brand new, and was left unchecked guessing again,but your probably ok how did you adjust the valves? ---- zero lash did you degree in the cam or just install it DOT-TO -DOT? ---- dot to dot - yes have you checked the exhaust back pressure? do you run a cat /converter? ----- no cat/converter, dual 2 1/2" all the way back, back pressure unchecked guessing again,but your probably ok what are the plugs gapped at? ----- .045 (checked today to confirm) good! what do they look like as to the burn and heat condition? -------- Running VERY rich now we have a symtom to look at! have you checked for vacuum leaks? ------ none could be found what temp does the engine run at? -------- constant 190 GOOD, useful info! is the trans fluid at the correct level? -------- perfect GOOD, useful info! are YOU 100% sure, not 99% sure that the trans control cable is adjusted correctly? ------- no, again,GOOD, useful info! not 100%. But I'm getting popping (when either rich or lean in the driveway as well) again,GOOD, useful info! have you had someone sit in the car and with the engine OFF, floor the gas petal to see if the carb opens fully and the secondaries open EASILY with mild finger pressure? -------- felt good and easy here I think your potentially having a problem, as your running rich which may mean the secondaries are slow to open or not opening fully if at all,as the vacuum goes up so does the fuel flow which may account for the rich plugs is the power valve in the HOLLEY (IF THERE IS ONE in that model) working correctly? ------ unchecked as of yet you need to check are the accellerator pumps(pump)set up to the maximum volluum and durration? ----------- unknown as of now you need to check whats your fuel pressure at idle? --------- constant 6psi whats your fuel pressure at wot ----------- very little fuctuation from above again,GOOD, useful info! whats your float level? -------- unchecked as of yet you need to check your guessing again,and your probably NOT ok with the float levels whats your power valve and jet numbers? -----------unknown at this time guessing again,but your probably NOT ok are you running a points or electronic ignition? --------- HEI coil type? --------- Summit 50,000 volt upgrade kit again,GOOD, useful info! have you had the distributor looked at and curved to give full advance (about 36 degrees total) by 2900rpm? ---------- no, not yet ( the ignition should be set at idle at between 6-about 8 degrees at about 700rpm?????) --------- did you say 6-8??? I'm up to 18 right now guessing again,but your probably NOT ok, this seems like a problem but it may be your not useing the correct test procedure, the base timing should be significantly less than the ignition advance at 2900rpm which should be close to 36 degrees total, any more than 10 degrees makes me think your ignition curves WAY OUT OF SPEC whats the TESTED CONVERTER STALL SPEED? --------- untested but was told its a 2000 ss lockup type its a very simple test look at the links I provided are you SURE the ignition ADVANCES as the rpms build? ------ no, see note below again,GOOD, useful info! does disconnecting the vacuum to the carb help or hurt the responce? engine idled up to about 1500rpms can you give me a vacuum reading at idle and at wot? ------- about 16.5 at idle, and went as high as 20 at about 4,000 rpms here we may see a problem, vacuum readings should drop off as the carb venturies open fully, not get higher, (yes IM VERY AWARE the vacuum readings jump up untill the secondaries DO OPEN fully,)this tends to make me think the secondaries are slow to open or are not opening, Id suggest looking into that, but the ignitio seems to be the fist problem area whats the OHMS reading on your ignition wires?(end to end) -------untested your not likely to have a problem here but its easy to test and IS a potential problem whats the voltage your batterys got,what the altenator put out in voltage? -------12 volts. 14 when cruising again,GOOD, useful info! Ok, so I did some checking today. On a whim, I pulled over and moved the vacuum advance hose to the full vacuum as opposed to the timed vacuum port on the carb.....No change. I then plugged everything off completely ........ no change.... grrrrrr vacuum advance blown???? 23 Hours Ago 12:53 AM Poundz9oh9 Id get a ignition upgrade or the current distrib repaired, personally I prefer the MSD stuff for a basic ignition TECH LINE: 915-855-7123 http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_4_6200.htm http://www.msdignition.com/dist_1.htm see what testing vs guessing does, it tends to limit your potential problem areas, we now have at least the basic info to suspect the ignition advance curve is way out of spec, or non-functioning, and will need repair or replacement,(personally Id install a MSD dissy and 6200 ignition control if I could afford it_ if I was you) and the carb secondaries may be opening too slowly if they open at all, and the floats and power valve may be wrong or mal adjusted

ok I read thru 3 pages of basic guess work, and the guys seem to have touched on most possiabilitys, but not once did the basic check list, and the results of testing get mentioned,I hate GUESSING, ID rather run thru a test /check list and eliminate each potential area untill I find the problem(s) btw you did say your running a cam with over .500 lift also, and vortec heads??? unmodifyed vortecs RARELY have clearance to run over about .470 lift???? did you get the clearances checked, coil bind, rocker to rocker stud,clearance? whats the retainer to valve guide clearance? whats the valve to piston clearance?? did you do a compression check on ALL 8 cylinders? WHAT WERE THE READINGS ,PSI have you checked CAREFULLY the cam lift to see if a lobes worn? how did you adjust the valves? did you degree in the cam or just install it DOT-TO -DOT? have you checked the exhaust back pressure? do you run a cat /converter? what are the plugs gapped at? what do they look like as to the burn and heat condition? have you checked for vacuum leaks? what temp does the engine run at? is the trans fluid at the correct level? are YOU 100% sure, not 99% sure that the trans control cable is adjusted correctly? have you had someone sit in the car and with the engine OFF, floor the gas petal to see if the carb opens fully and the secondaries open EASILY with mild finger pressure? is the power valve in the HOLLEY (IF THERE IS ONE in that model) working correctly? are the accellerator pumps(pump)set up to the maximum volluum and durration? whats your fuel pressure at idle? whats your fuel pressure at wot whats your float level? whats your power valve and jet numbers? are you running a points or electronic ignition? coil type? have you had the distributor looked at and curved to give full advance (about 36 degrees total) by 2900rpm?( the ignition should be set at idle at between 6-about 8 degrees at about 700rpm?????) whats the TESTED CONVERTER STALL SPEED? are you SURE the ignition ADVANCES as the rpms build? does disconnecting the vacuum to the carb help or hurt the responce? can you give me a vacuum reading at idle and at wot? whats the OHMS reading on your ignition wires?(end to end) whats the voltage your batterys got,what the altenator put out in voltage? places for basic info http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/temp_data/carbtune.html http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/700r4+AODTVCableAdj.htm http://www.artcarr.com/storm.cfm?funnelaction=3 http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/timing101s.htm http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN7ValvLash.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89720.htm http://www.boostandfuel.com/support/setting_valves.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/87998/index2.html http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/valveadj.html http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/compression.htm http://carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0406_leak/

nice work guys

look over the thread on 500hp kits http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107735 look thru the links keep FIRMLY in mind the LARGER DISPLACEMENT, HIGHER COMPRESSION RATIO, BETTER CYLINDER HEAD FLOW RATES and the MATCHING CAM timing are the major factors in the hp levels you reach....its FAR easier to make exceptional power with a 383-454 sbc engine with good heads and a cam matched to fairly high compression, than when starting with a 302-350 size or stock heads if you want a well tested combo, that does not use an expensive roller cam use AFR 195cc heads http://www.airflowresearch.com/ CRANE 110921 cam http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=110921&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp&x=34&y=12 holley HLY-300-110 intake http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=keith&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp&x=30&y=15 on a 10.5:1 cpr 383 OR 406 short block http://jrmotorsportsltd.com/product.cfm/productID/210.cfm use a baffled 7-9 qt oil pan use a 750cfm carb results will exceed 450hp/450tq (FLYWHEEL) if its assembled and tuned correctly use full length headers and a free flow exhaust, and a manual trans or an auto with a 3000rpm stall speed and 3.54-4.11 rear gears THIS IS A VERY COST EFFECTIVE COMBO

ArchAngel432 IM curious, where in florida are you located

theres a BUNCH of factors that must be looked at...when matching components.... http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://headerdesign.com/extras/engine.asp#Intake_Manifolds http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/runnertorquecalc.php http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/intake/pt.html the calculators above will allow you to match the engines intake port length and flow rates heres some basic rules of thumb as they say keep the EFFECTIVE durration of the cam matched to the compression ratio so that the DYNAMIC cpr stays in the 7.5:1-8.5:1 range and the overlap matches the chart below these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap but all engines will need the correct matching dcr for those overlap figures to correctly scavage the cylinders in the rpm ranges that apply to each engines use range.look carefully at this chart example http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card here is a hot street cam that works great in many 383 camaros with at least 10.5 static cpr with 3.5-4.1 gears now the timeing is intake opens 29.0 btdc, closes 71.0 abdc exhaust opens 77.0 bbdc, closes 31.0 atdc so if we add the 29 to the 31 we get the overlap duration of 60 degs of which makes this cam fall in the center of HOT STREET youll RARELY benefit from a single plane carb intake with a cam that has less than about 230 degs durration at .050 lift, below that a dual plane carb intake works better most of the time header primary tube size should not greatly exceed the exhaust port size http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/otto-c.htm

DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557882452/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_0/102-3607967-7950552?%5Fencoding=UTF8 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557883343/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_1/102-3607967-7950552?%5Fencoding=UTF8 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...F8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...2699400-6836852 . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0931472067/qid=1139674525/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-3607967-7950552?s=books&v=glance&n=283155 JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines the lower three are mandatory

heres a brief course on cams to get you up to speed on the concepts http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/cam-basics.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://www.auto-ware.com/combust_bytes/camspecs.html http://www.rpmoutlet.com/camfac.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/43418/index3.html http://hotrod.com/techarticles/113_0209_cam/ http://hotrod.com/techarticles/113_9811_cam/ http://hotrod.com/techarticles/113_9804_cam/ http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm http://www.mousemotor.com/cb_1.htm http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39010 1985,1992,1996 vettes keep the rubber side down and the

"What is toulene?" its NORMALLY sold as a PAINT ADDITIVE AND CLEANER at larger paint supply stores in gallon cans or cases of gallon cans, DONT GET IT IN CONTACT WITH SKIN OR BREATH VAPOR think SHERWIN WILLIAMS and similar PAINT SUPPLY STORES http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profiles/summary.tcl?edf_substance_id=108%2d88%2d3

DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557882452/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_0/102-3607967-7950552?%5Fencoding=UTF8 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557883343/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_1/102-3607967-7950552?%5Fencoding=UTF8 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...F8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...2699400-6836852 . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0931472067/qid=1139674525/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-3607967-7950552?s=books&v=glance&n=283155 JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines the lower three are mandatory

read thru the links (YEAH ITS WORTH THE EFFORT) http://www.blainetech.net/articles/ http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DCR_FAQ.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php heres some differant calculators http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2 http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/cranking_pressure.shtml average the results