grumpyvette

"Just in the nick of time, huh Grump?" yuP! typical........ the day AFTER the hurricane I get the doors... luckly we had only alot of rain, little wind.

well three weeks later than I was promised, I finaly got my $4700 180mph rated doors on the garage installed, and they look great!

trust me, I doubt your that high on the (TODAYS TOO DO LIST!) in heaven, theres a great deal more for the LORD to look into than your FUEL PUMP FUNCTION,...under the screw with this guy! notes, its probably just a worn out or badly ELECTRICALLY connected pump! besides IT would NOT be the LORD it would be one of Satans little buddies if your on any list!

WE DON,T NEED NO STINK,ING RADIO OR SPEEAKERS.......... thier just more dead weight to toss! what we need is more NITROUS and MORE DISPLACEMENT and MORE COMPRESSION to make the engine sound better! besides you can,t hear the #$#$%^ radio if it was on with 555 cubic inchs of 14:1 compression injected big block running to open headers once you hit that 300 hp giggle gas button on the shift!!!!

900ss nice clean looking (Z) but its obvious you need a small mod in the engine compartment...like this.. or this youll be supprized at what 500 plus ft lbs of torque will do for the way the car feels

I was asked if adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator helps, on those TPI engines... naturally the results depend on your application and combo, as an example on the 1985-1996 corvette I useually work on...your engine power is regulated to a large extent by the rate at which you can EFFECTIVELY BURN fuel/air mixture the adjustable fuel pressure regulators can in some combos help noticably IF the injectors used are running at the ragged upper edge of thier flow limits, but in most cases they do very little, WHY?? well the cpu controls the injectors pulse width effectively controlling your air/fuel ratios from feed back from the O2 sensors in the exhaust, at least in theory the injectors are large enought to supply 100% of your engines potential needs running less than 80% pulse width. at the 37psi-42psi the stock regulator provides. BUT if youve made significant changes to the engine combo youll need to EITHER increase the injector size OR cheat by upping the supply pressure to those smaller injectors, obviously adding more pressure with a regulator is limited to the maximum the fuel pump can supply and in most case the stock pump maxs out just under 48psi play with this http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcpchg.htm youll soon find that useing larger injectors and letting the CPU REDUCE the pulse width is far more effective that trying to boost flow on stock injectors Matching the Injector to the Engine: generic calculation Injector Flow Rate (lb/hr) = Engine HP x BSFC Number of Injectors x 0.8 Injector Size 14 lb./hr.......up to 225 19 lb./hr.....225-300 24 lb./hr.....300-385 30 lb./hr......385-480 36 lb./hr......480-575 42 lb./hr.......575-670 50 lb./hr ......670-800 Horsepower Range http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/flyers/74098G.pdf http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsTPI.asp __________________ retired engineer ,engine builder, 1985/92/96 vettes(all modifyied)

Im still waiting on garage doors to be delivered, they were suppose to be here last week.... but heres some pics of the inside so far, it gives a partial idea as to size but makes the garage look FAR SMALLER than it is, theres an additional 15 feet behind my brother-in-law as he took this picture filled with building materials/stored parts ETC. so he cant back up further BTW look cloesly at the light shadow on the wall near the nose of the vette, that vettes 10 feet from the far wall, which tends to give you a better idea as to size

when I was driving my highly modified 1968 corvette with its injected big block 13.5:1 cpr 496 engine (only ran on race 115octane gas) on the way to the local track,which is only a few miles from my home, I had a chevell pull up next to me on the turnpike and rev the engine several times , obviously wanting to race, now having 4.56 rear gears I was cruising at 60-65mph at about 3500rpm I knew I could be very impressive as I had about 700hp, but I had the slicks in a truck that was following me to the track and knew Id have little to no traction. OH HELL< theres no other cars in site! why not, I slowly depressed the throttle and the obvious result, instant tire smoke all the way to 120mph which only took seconds, I slowed back down very quickly, the chevell caught back up and followed me to the track. the guys in the chevell said they thought I was burning oil untill they noticed the tire marks and that the smoke was comming from the tires not the exhaust, plus the fact Id left them from a 65mph roll like they had the brakes locked,sure did not hurt either... and running 10.25 at 137mph at the track hurt nothing either...that made my MONTH! yeah ITS ADDICTIVE!!!

http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/ http://www.mustangexhaust.com/tech/HvsX/HvsX.htm http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles/Theory/theory.html you may want to read these

your building a 350 the thinnest head gasket comonly available is about .015-.017 thick and has a 4.060 bore stroke 3.48" bore 4.030 rod 5.7 head volume 76 (882 casting 1.94 intake 1.50 exhaust) piston to deck 0 piston -6.6 cc (valve reliefs) thus the EFFECTIVE combustion chamber is 76cc plus 6.6cc plus 6.44cc for the head gasket=89.04cc cylinder voluum is 714 cc thats effectively only 8:1 cpr really cam 274 intake 286 exhaust .490/.490 110 lobe sep @ .050 230 intake 236 exhaust your cam has 230/236 durration mine has 230/238 durration mine with its similar cam timing durration timing is quite similar, durration not lift has the most effect on when the valves open an close thats what effects the dynamic cpr. HERES YOUR CAM SPECS http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-246-3 http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp run youR specs thru the calculator... YOUR STATIC COMPRESSION IS CLOSE TO 9.5:1 using the calculator YOUR DYNAMIC IS UNDER 8:1 using the calculator

while its not nearly as effective as a hot tank chemical bath, the local car wash with those high pressure wands and 15 minutes use and a gallon of chemical grease remover/solvent and some wire brush work can clean a bare block to a remarkable level, (soak it down with several cans of wd 40 when your done) and set in the garage to totally dry with several heat guns or hair dryers, heat till its to hot to touch and respray with wd 40 then seal in several layers of plastic bags and several sheets od news paper to absorb minor moisture I bought and use a portable 3200 psi pressure washer for the shop use just to avoid trips to the car wash, now it won,t/didn,t take many blocks cleaned to pay that off

you may not even need to retard the cam or the ignition timing at all if they are quality ALUMINUM heads simply because aluminum pulls heat from the combustion chambers far more efficiently than iron, making a increased compression far less likely to get into detonation I sure would not worry about that untill the time came to purchase the new heads and even then boosting the static compression up to about a full ratio (from 9.5:1 to 10.5:1) may not cause problems that simple tuning may cure. example my current 383 runs 11:1 with a very similar cam and it runs fine on 93 octane high test

you heads have 76cc chambers, depending on what your replacement heads have the combustion chamber size could change the compression ratio, but generally the better aftermarket heads may require differant head bolts or head gaskets but thats about all, but the increased air flow will usually make a noticable increase in power be aware that the plug angles could cause problems with the headers if the angle changes on some applications IF you had POP-up pistons instead of flat tops,that may be a potential source of problems as the dome/combustion chamber shapes might be a differant and clearances may not be compatable

places to get info and ideas for engine swaps, you might want http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/swaps.htm http://www.bonusbuilt.com/engineswaps.html http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/ http://www.engine-swaps.com/Car_Craft_December_2000/ http://www.engineswaps.com/ http://www.advanceadapters.com/newidea.html http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings.htm http://streetlegalmonthly.tripod.com/ http://alteredz.com/MichaelOlsBBZ.htm http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/ http://www.ratsun.com/ http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/volvo_engine_swaps.htm http://www.tdperformance.com/ http://www.primequip.net/products/Project_427/Encyclopedia.htm http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW.htm http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

lately Ive been useing heavily ported TRICKFLOW or DART PRO 1 heads on most engines I find they are an excellent value and take well to minor clean up work

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php dynamic & static cpr differ YOU may be thinking of STATIC vs dynamic compression, dynamic may be about 8:1 but that puts the STATIC COMPRESSION at about 9.5:1 with that cam http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32358

what they should look like

Id bet that with that combo the RPM AIR GAP DUAL PLANE intake would be slightly superior! now Im not saying your intake wont work but the cam specs , or those that are very similar to yours , that your suggesting ive used in several engines including my current corvette look http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 and I think youll find that the dual plane intake more correctly matches the RPM band as it tends to be pretty much out of breath by 6300rpm while the intakes designed to run higher up,look over both intakes designed rpm band and youll see that the dual plane tends to cover a higher percentage of that rpm band and will usually produce better low and mid range power

if the flow thro the ports is the same or close to the same at the max cam lift, the results will be similar and DD-2000 is just a way to get a quick estimate , theres tons of factors it fails to account for, it, (dd-2000) makes a educated guess, its NOT reliable in its exact results BTW you may find these useful http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/ http://www.kendrick-auto.com/head_flow_figures.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/2gcog/cylhead.html http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/headcomp.html http://www.dw1977.cz28.com/photo2.html

first thing you need to realize is DD-2000 is a very poor software for prodicting engine output, but it does have its place as its quick and easy and surprizingly accurate on the PEAK numbers and where in the RPM band those PEAKS fall PROVIDED you enter the data correctly WANT BETTER RESULTS?? http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm I use this, in the shop.....it costs ALOT MORE MONEY but its BETTER SOFTWARE and it should be for Your price $459.95 want to predict your potential hp from the cylinder heads flow numbers? I can give you a quick and dirty formula,.flow at max lift x # of cylinders x .257= hp not its not exact but it is a good guide that will get you SURPRIZINGLY CLOSE on most STREET STRIP engines

anyone who tells you they don,t occasionally screw things up is just telling you they do VERY FEW PROJECTS, the KEY is to LEARN FROM the screw-ups and NOT TO REPEAT THEM!and PAY ATTENTION to what your doing!, think things thru....and test them SEVERAL TIMES EXAMPLE one of my friends (FRANK) installed a high voluum oil pump,now thats not a high tech job but he screwed up royally first he insearted the pick-up tube into the pump body without checking depth (luckly I caught that when I pulled the bottom plate on the pump to check gear end play and found the tube binding the gears) next he mounted the pump to the main cap without checking bolt depth (I caught that as the bolt was bearing on the rear main causing it to bind the crank slightly) next he failed to silver solder or braze the pick-up to the pump and weld a brace to the pick-up tube(I did that for him) next he never checked the pan to pickup clearances, (luckly they were ok, Id ask and he said he had checked) but when I double checked he asked what I was doing with the modeling clay, I ask how he had checked, (" hey the pan bolts on without touching was his reply") then he had a great deal of trouble getting the gasket to stay on the oil pan,untill I showed him how a one piece synthetic oil pan gasket and some stratigicly applied contact cement only on the pan side of the gasket and using studs in the block that extend thru the pan rails as the pans placed to the block VS bolts worked, making alingment far easier

Ive never yet had the smallest problem useing solid copper head gaskets, I am useing them currently on several iron engines with aluminum heads including my corvette 383 which sees a 200hp nitrous boost ocationally, I guess I find out thru trial/error if an all aluminum combo reacts similarly

once youve installed a new cam in your engine its necessary to determine the correct valve train geometry, this is MANDATORY if you want the cam to function correctly. yes the stock lenght may work just fine! but you must check! heres a quick way described below " to QUOTE MOTORMAN..... you just put the lifter on the cam base circle,slip the checker over the stud,if the checker hits the valve first use a feeler gauge between the checker and the pushrod tip to see how much longer pushrod you need. if the checker hits the pushrod first use a feeler gauge to check the gap at the valve stem tip and that is the amount you need to shorten the pushrod" its not that difficult to figure out, read these links also http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/ http://www.powerandperformancenews.com/s...=LENGTHCHECKERS yes you need to check. heres a simple way to get close to the correct length BUY ONE OF THESE http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3567&prmenbr=361 after making sure the valve springs are correctly installed (correct height, and youve checked for spring bind,retainer to valve guide, retainer to rocker,rocker to rocker stud,and pushrod to cylinder head slot clearance ETC, you drop the correct style pushrod checker in place on the rocker stud and install your adjustable pushrod adjust the length to fit and measure the resulting length if its within twenty thousands of the stock length its fine for most applications, if its more than 30 thousands long or short get the closest length set available be aware the pushrod checkers come in 3/8" and 7/16" stud models, and bbbc and sbc models btw http://www.powerandperformancenews.com/s...;Category_Code= BEEHIVE DESIGN springs , with the upper side being smaller in dia. and useing a smaller retainer, available from several manufactures similar too these give much greater clearance to the rocker/retainer area and tend to control valve float harmonics if you find that your current springs won,t work BTW DON,T assume that the intake and exhaust pushrods are the same length, yeah they usually are on a SBC engine but there are exceptions....CAREFULLY CHECK SEVERAL or ALL CYLINDERS especially if your useing aftermarket heads and roller rockers

I recently had a few freinds over and we got to talking abot the screw-ups weve all had....this one guy installed a clutch and once it was in he could not get the throw out bearing to release the clutch...now Id bet that half the guys who have installed several clutchs, or for that matter most parts assemblys, have mis-assembled something or badly adjusted some part, Id bet 50% or more of what most hotrodders learn is by screwing something up (big or small) and THEN figguring out how to get it working/repaired again! I know its true for myself... and every last one of my friends,....... so youve got some company..... the skills you gain in the hot rodder hobby are at times, hard won! all I can say is that as you get older you tend to use files, chisels and hammers far less........ than gauges, mics, and dial indicators, and beating something into place looks like a valid course of action....... far less often ! you also tend to learn to use the correct tools , and collect more of the correct tools and when something won,t work, youll tend to read instructions and referance material throughly rather than jumping into something. thats also a slow and hard won skill!

JOHNC the first time I read that, "The 3" exhaust has reduced backpressure to the point that a low pressure area exists in the tubing causing the high pressure air in the tires to be pulled to the inside. This increases the inside OD of the tire which, with the negative camber that you're running, correlates to a reduction in operating rpm of 300. If you decrease the negative camber by .23 degrees you'll get back that 300 rpm." I was amused and wondered if anyone would take your post seriously, for an instant! then I re-read it and was SURE no one would for even an instant, but I could see the humor, potentially ... then I read this........."Good stuff! That boggled my mind faster than a Grumpyvette post!" by wpnmkr and I don,t know what to think????