ShaggyZ

Holy guacamole! That is unreal.

To somewhat balance out your comment, and as a point of interest, DriftMotion.com sells a shifter extension for the R154 (2JZ swaps) for $300. It extends the shifter a few inches with a $5 piece of square aluminum tubing welded in for the housing and a $1 piece of round stock steel to extend the actual shifter. It looks like poop but it gets the job done. Then, here we have Austin getting these beautiful, strong pieces that look better than factory for WAY less. I think it was Timbo1JZ or something like that in the Toyota L6 forum arguing with me about the value of the DriftMotion piece.

or a 10x scale so I can drive it!

What happened to "she's 21 years old?" Now you're telling us she's 4?! She shouldn't be driving anything!

Search "distributorless" for a start. You can also go through the sections of the forum for the standalone engine managements such as Haltech, SDS, and Megasquirt.

I'm not certain, but it looks like they're probably all VR sensors. Really, there's not much else they can be. Apparently, Megasquirt has no problem with VR sensors. However, I've learned that VR sensors and hall effect sensors still get triggered off some type of metal or magnetic wheel (I just magnets on my motorcycle to strengthen the magnetic field as there is a lot of other metal nearby); I'll have to pull off the crank pulley to confirm this. If there is a common wheel (eg 36-1), then I will likely replace the VR sensor with a generic hall effect sensor so I don't have to worry about translating the VR signal. Who knows... I may end up mounting a trigger wheel on the flywheel.

Funny it's parked in front of a GM Daewoo building.

That modification is pretty interesting but the dude is charging a pretty penny for essentially a hack job - with all of the "options" it comes out to nearly $800, quality FFIM manifold territory... or at least close enough it makes me consider spending what little more it would be to get a real nice piece. Regardless, I would consider doing the modification myself if I had a 7MGTE. I'm sure there is a lot more going than just those few flow numbers he showed; flow tests are much more involved. In other words, it might do terribly and uneven under varying pressures.

Is it because of the matching scratches and dirt?

In this case, it's a reminder to me why I'm planning to go with Megasquirt. Even with the $$$ AEM, which I can't afford anyway, it seems like you have to keep buying a whole bunch of other high dollar components to it. I know this is largely a biased perception, but my route is to spend only as much as I MUST. I'm not building a 1000HP show car. I'm very impressed with this build, for what it's worth.

Ditto. He's done a lot of stuff to it but, in my opinion, it's sadly just a $10k-$12k car.

Nobody in the Supra realm would probably know. I'm not sure what the big deal with using the stock crank angle sensor would be for MegaSquirt, but I don't know what type of signal they'd be sending out. Typically, a hall effect sensor has three connections (12+, ground, and signal, I believe), but the plugs for the Toyota sensors only have two connections. I've considered that the sensors could be grounded through their mounting. I know I could take them off and test them like I did for the hall effect sensors for my motorcycle, but I'd rather not ruin them if I mess up. Also, just because I might get a signal from the Toyota sensor, doesn't mean I'm getting the right signal, necessarily. I'm fully aware I could just go with EDIS, but 1.) I intend to use LS2/truck coils, 2.) I don't want to bolt a big ugly 36-1 wheel on the front of the 2JZ and using what's already there is ideal. I appreciate any direction.

Old news but cool news. I think it makes total sense for that application; on the other side of the same coin, it makes sense to have/want a single-plane crank in a large displacement V8. The R1 and other 4-cylinder liter bikes have such unwieldy power bands that have become increasingly more wild over the years - this development, as far as I've gathered, will keep about the same average power, but will spread it out across the power band so it can actually be used. It's kind of like a big-twin in the RC51 or Aprilia RSV Mille in the power department, but I can see one benefit being that there will be less stress on the crank from a 500cc cylinder. Not a perfect explanation, but that's basically what's happening.

Well, hmm... now you gave me another idea for a project I'll never do - RB26DETT AWD Sonoma or S10

I just noticed it has a front sump oil pan. I thought all the RB20DET's were rear sump, but then I looked them I read that this engine came from a R31 Skyline instead of a 200ZR, which I thought were the only cars to come with the RB20DET. Wouldn't you have been better off with the rear sump? If so, the bright side is you should be able to get a hold of the stuff you'd need for pretty cheap.

It's basically just an ignition amplifier. When you go with AEM, you end up with wasted spark and a consequentially weaker spark, I believe. I think a lot of guys start having ignition issues around 18psi on the AEM setup so they plop down $500 for the HKS DLI and have no more problems. Here's a crappy thread on it: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3533065 And here's a link to the HKS DLI: http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=839

Sorry, but this sounds like the statement of a car thief

Ditto. And I will be very surprised if it really isn't tilted to far back. Good luck.

Yikes! That reminded me another reason why I didn't go with the stock computer first. That gets $$$ quickly if you want to make power. Then, you need a DLI, too.

What number is "unreal?"

is that the guy with the second gen RX7 and the junker twin turbos on it? That thing made great power...not just peak.

That's good to have, but here's a fuller page with only technical specs AND what you just posted. Unless there's more further into that thread you posted, you'll probably prefer this - http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm

Seriously, would it not be wicked to do something like that with a L28 with the obligatory turbo hanging off the side? I could even rock a SR20DET like that, out in the open. Why have I been so interested the past month to do a car or trike with the engine out in the open and weighing under 1500lbs???