ShaggyZ

Someone has to bring you 250 $100 bills?! Just go to a bank with them and get a certified check or something. I feel crazy enough carrying a few hundred with me.

A link would be nicer. Geez... kids these days. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320343014327

How does one get to do such a thing?!

We have a classifieds section. Use it and don't cross-post. (ie multiple threads for the same thing)

Your perception about large engines getting better gas mileage is inaccurate. Car companies regularly increase the displacement of a current engine to increase fuel economy. For example, the BMW M3 had a 3.0L I6 until '95, I believe, and got bumped up to 3.2L to increase fuel economy and emissions. There are plenty of hybrid Z's with LSx series engines making well over 300HP and getting 28-30mpg. The little engines are having to rap themselves out so much that they start chugging the fuel, so they can actually end up getting worse mileage than the big V8's

Obligatory on-topic reply: neato! My real reason for posting here: how similar are the J30 and Z32 engine bays, as the J30 comes stock with a VG30DE and the Leopard (JDM J30) has a VH41 option?

Where's that delete button? Oh ya, I'm not a moderator here.

I'll PM you my Paypal address.

That's good to know. I feel better now. What type of poison are we talking about? In other words, which hospital should I go to?

After a relatively frustrating first time welding a couple months ago, I didn't try again until tonight after having decided how I want to fab up mounts for the 2JZ install. I think the problem the first time was the crusty, rusty and thick brake rotor I was practicing with. Tonight went MUCH better. Welding instructions can be overwhelming; it's the practice that helps me quickly understand what is actually happening so I can problem solve heat and wire feed issues, which I did pretty well in 45 minutes of practicing. I grabbed whatever scrap metal I had lying around: banged up Integra header, rusty coffee can, a 6ft long 3" exhaust pipe, a 280Z exhaust heat shield, a broken bench vice (mounting tab broke), and a broken tire iron, cross wrench dealie (what are those called?). I welded a metal tab to a thick piece of the header and even practiced some shallow filling and a "no bottom" fill of a 1/4" hole. Fiddling with the wire feed and heat got me fixed up pretty quick, though I did blow some holes at first. Moved on to the much thicker metal of the vice and chose not to clean off the paint to see what happens. More heat and speed fiddling and I did a surprisingly good job. Banged on it pretty hard and it didn't budge. I also practiced on the chromed cross wrench thing and practiced filling on that, too. Welding solid, thick metal is pretty easy, even with the chrome. The filling worked really well, too. Banged on the wrench pretty hard and leveraged it with no budging. I don't know how well it would do in its intended function, but it was only practice. Moved on to the exhaust pipe and did some butt welding. Started with a couple spot welds with my eyes closed (hand held mask) so I'd have a hand free to hold the pieces in a good place. It held well enough but had to be bent to start a bead connecting the two pieces evenly. One side sucked (the first side) but it's very clear which is the second side - a relatively nice, clean, and consistent bead/worm weld. It's plenty strong, which I found out by setting it up so I could jump on it to try and break it but it just acted like a solid piece of metal (that's the idea). Then I made what you see below - a heat shield welded to the coffee can welded to the header. I did this for ridiculousness' sake and to try mating different thickness metals and then mix it up a bit by seeing what happens with rust. I blew holes through the coffee can instantly and realized it would probably work better if I "focused"(?) the weld to the thick metal of the heat shield (and the header previously). The coffee can would still get plenty hot to allow the metal to soften and the weld to flow to it and in it. You can't tell from the picture, but that monster stands about 3 feet tall overall. It's structure is as strong as the coffee can... which is actually very weak, but the coffee can would break before the weld. I did all the welding on my back porch, sitting on ground. I'm pleased with my progress so far, which actually says a lot because I'm very critical of anything I do. Bit of info: the MIG welder is a Lincoln Electric 140HD I got new and unopened from a guy for $350. He says he got it as a gift but he probably stole it. I'm feeling a little queasy and high, but I'm not sure if it's the pork chops my wife made or the fumes. I need to set up my fan next time.

That's some expensive garbage!

You're so late to the party that it makes me wonder if you were even invited. And, yes, white IS right! Wait... isn't that for something else? You went black and there's no coming back.

^^^^^^^^^^^ Looks great except it needs to sit .5"-1" lower. CCW's just do it for me every time.

Looks cool. The only thing I would change now is to get that metal plating to look like the overlay (ie paint it black) or make it all one piece.

Worst poll ever!

Looks awesome possum! Can Wolf do non-wasted spark? Seems like a "waste" to have six fancy coils and go wasted spark. Though, z-ya's setup looks dynamite!

This the Boost Logic Camaro, right? It's pretty dang neato.

It's that 240ZG most everyone loves. Beautiful car. It's the first 240ZG that really revved my engine and I had a lot of pictures of it saved on my computer. http://racer86.wordpress.com/2008/02/25/garage-miya-240zg/

Having individual throttle bodies does not dictate that there is no intake plenum. The stock RB26DETT is a good example and BMW M3. The IAT sensor doesn't HAVE to be in the intake tract. It's far more accurate somewhere along the intake tract and near the head proably, but the reality is you could mount it in a cool place in the engine bay or somewhere that it can detect ambient air temperatures. It even works well enough with turbocharged, air-to-air intercooled vehicles because the turbo warms up the air and the intercooler tries hard to cool it back close to ambient, though never reaching it.

I don't doubt the awesomeness of the nicely packaged VQ-in-a-S30, but I am curious if you think this newfound handling isn't something that could be dialed in with tire choice and other suspension adjustments/modifications with another engine (2JZ, SBC, RB, etc) or a variant mounting of the VQ? I'm thinking of what it will be like with my 2JZ (heavier and longer than VQ) in a low, setback position, as compared to the stock-mounted L28.

Good to have that information early on to help further my planning in the no-money-to-spend stage. I really appreciate it, Speeder.

With the way things are today, I'm surprised that kid didn't get arrested for grand theft auto and interfering with "the law." That would have been all ridonculoid.

Funky. What kind of truck is that? I'll be sure to avoid buying one if it's not mattress proof.

It may come to my selling my '77 soon. No engine or tranny. Refurbished fuel tank. Body is in fantastic shape. Decent newish paint job. Turbo swastika wheels with very new tires. New front toyota calipers and rear discs. Sat for 10 years and it was a California car, but now it's an Austin, TX car sitting in my garage. Haven't decided on a price because I'm selling a bunch of other stuff first. $2k might be the right amount. It was to be my 2JZ project but I've had no job for 3 months and we're running out of money. I noticed you're selling a G20. I'm trying to sell another car but I might be interested in a trade...MAYBE.