Drax240z

Sanitary bends are much nicer than what are offered by vibrant, and any other brands geared toward the automotive industry in my experience. They put the Burns Stainless stuff I've used to shame as well... Polished inside and out, perfect cross sections, perfect fit.... (Excuse the dust!)

Done it before, no problems. However, I would just track down the proper straps if I had to do it again.

+1 a good starting point.

So far so good. I could use a bit more headroom, but I am hoping a swap to sport seats will give me another 1/4" or so. As for parts: http://www.bimmer-parts.ca/ They are located close to me, but they'll ship to Calgary, and they are a really great resource. I've bought tons of stuff off them over the years. Maintenance: I find Bimmers extremely easy to work on, much like the Z a way. Yes there are more electronics to deal with, but I don't mind that. The general layout and mechanical design is well thought out, accessible, robust, and performs well. Again, reminds me of the Z. If you are able to do the basics yourself (brakes, waterpump, belts, tuneup etc) I wouldn't sweat the maintenance costs at all. Parts are relative, but for the E36 non-M-series they are pretty reasonable in my opinion. Then again, I'm not one to buy genuine BMW parts unless absolutely needed, and if they are I'll often buy used. It all depends on what your maintenance plans are.

The same stuff can be had at places that build brewery equipment, I buy "sanitary bends" at a local place that builds stainless steel brewery stuff. Polished inside and out, and perfect bends.

Excellent feedback. Can you easily gauge (vs. your competition) if you've picked up time over the Hoosier A6's? It sounds like the FA slicks are a little more forgiving, but less responsive, a fair assessment? Photos of the new wheels and tires on the car are always welcome, not because it has any real relevance to the thread topic, but more because I'd like to see what a Z looks like on 22.9" tall tires.

It's a Leica, of course it's expensive! There are quality zooms that are as good as primes. Those I listed above all are considered "professional" Nikon lenses, and will rival or exceed many primes in terms of speed, sharpness, bokeh, and AF speed. There are still high end primes that will knock your socks off (say, the 200mm f2, what a lens!), and primes that aren't worth owning (28mmf2.8 for example). As with most things, each lens is more than the numbers printed on them. Nikon zoom lenses that will allow professional quality results: 17-35f2.8 14-24f2.8 24-70f2.8 28-70f2.8 80-200f2.8 200-400f4 And the primes: 28f1.4 50f1.4 85f1.4 105f2 135f2 200f2 300f2.8 400f2.8 500f4 600f4 (~$11,000, FWIW) Honourable mention - Potentially professional results at less than professional prices: 50f1.8 60f2.8 105f2.8 300f4

It already has come to Nikon... 17-35f2.8, 14-24f2.8, 24-70f2.8, 28-70f2.8, 80-200f2.8, 200-400f4, will all give you multiple focal lengths with prime quality results.

Looking forwards to the results of the next dyno session Yashin!

Read again... Another source, same lens: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/wa-tri-elmar.shtml In 1998 Leica introduced the Tri-Elmar (TE), offering 28, 35 and 50mm focal lengths in one lens. Though not a zoom lens, it was the first lens incorporating three separate focal lengths available for an M series Leica. At Photokina in September, 2006 Leica introduced a new Tri-Elmar, the 16-18-21mm, which from here-on I'll call the WA-TE.

So the argument here is that in 28 years, automotive technology has advanced?

Already out there, Leica has one: http://us.leica-camera.com/photography/m_system/lenses/2193.html

I agree, it would be a superb engine in an S30, and I'd LOVE to see that done! I've wanted to see that swap for a long time... Go Ron!!! Actually an OBD-I engine is available up here which makes things very straight forward for me. Might see what I can find for suspension too...

You guys suck. BRAAP, how's that M engine that's coming out? Might look good in my car...

Oh crap, you caught me! Surfing hybridz on a business trip in Montreal... I may have to roam the city a bit this evening while I'm here! Thanks guys!

Catalytic converter plug typically leads to low power. Just remove it anyway and put in a test pipe if you can get away with it. From what you are describing I wouldn't expect a cat to be the problem. Dan has some good advice.

50mm f1.8 (or faster) should be your first lens IMHO. Homage to a dead breed... all taken with the Nikon 50mm f1.8 I bought new for $115.

BMW 3 series.

I've been running a largish front bar and no rear bar for years on the autocross track... YMMV depending on the rest of your setup though.

Despite all this talk, I think dyno tuning is extremely valuable, and among the best bangs for your buck as far as making power goes. Key point, TUNING. As johnc said, it's a tuning and troubleshooting tool, and it can do both VERY well. (assuming its a decent dyno and has the ability to hold a steady load)

Well said Tony, one thing to add: Even quoting a PEAK hp number is kindof pointless, as it tells very little of the story. I've seen lots of "200hp" examples of car A that would be absolutely obliterated by another 180hp car A in any kind of race. Peak numbers are really best used to sell cars to those that are uninformed. In the end, none of the numbers tell you how fast a car is except for the slip from the drag strip, or the lap time.

Guys, just a word of advice for those that haven't installed wheel studs before. Double and triple check that the stud is installed all the way, and the head is bottomed before you finish. Any gap left will cause a loose wheel down the road (literally and figuratively). It's one of those things that I've seen just a few too many times (done it myself) and it's an easy thing to avoid.

Yes it's a 93 325iS. I've also got a 2000 528i Touring 5 speed that is new to us. I'm not sure either has fuel mileage to write home about though. I am getting roughly 25mpg in the 3-series mixed highway and city, and I believe the 5-series is getting about the same. I agree that $600 is a decent deal for the black interior, however, free weekends are hard to come by, and I'm expecting it to be a full days job, if not two to do the change-over. I think I'll spend that time on the Z instead, and just get another tan seat. Might see if I can track down some sport seats however in the correct colour... More pics to come likely this weekend, after I wash it.

I'd just go through each system and see that everything works, or at least know what doesn't. It's not uncommon to have something not working on these cars, as many items aren't necessities and people let them go. Sunroof on my car wasn't working, I have the parts on order to fix that. Lots of little things along those lines can creep in. The onboard computer will tell you the codes though, just look at it when you shut the car off and it will cycle through them if any. All in all, even these items aren't hard to fix on these cars. One nice thing about buying Bimmer's are almost all of them have the service records, and usually they have been well serviced. Few people buy NEW expensive car like that and balk at taking it to the dealer for service... To the benefit to those of us that pick up the cars later in their life.

I am!